enigma-2

Anyone know if a 2014 MKX tilting headrest will fit a 09 MKX? (Wife hates the angle of the stock headrest).

TireRack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/SelectTireSize.jsp?autoMake=Ford&autoModel=Edge+SEL&autoYear=2007&autoModClar=AWD&brand=Yokohama didn't recommend that particular tire for your car (either FWD or AWD). They sell it, but wasn't recommended for the 07 Edge SEL AWD or FWD. For Yokohama they spec'd the Geolandar H/T G056 @$131 ea, the Parada Spec-X @ $172 ea and the AVID ENVigor (H- or V-Speed Rated) @ $147 ea. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+ENVigor+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=46HR8ENV&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge%20SEL&autoModClar=FWD The surveys don't rate this tire very high, scoring low in "would you buy again, light snow, deep snow and ice. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+ENVigor+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=46HR8ENV&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge%20SEL&autoModClar=FWD Click on "surveys" and "reviews" for actual user reporting. A better tire and less money (at least at TireRack) would be the Bridgestone Dueler H/L 422 Ecopia @ $128 ea. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Dueler+H%2FL+422+Ecopia&partnum=46TR8HL422&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge%20SEL&autoModClar=FWD This are the tires I'm running on my 09 MKX AWD and find them to be very smooth & quiet, and have good traction on wet roads and in snow. Not so much on ice. For the price, they are a better buy IMO.

Air fow is through the core and then as directed by blend door actuator(s). Actuators are controlled by HVAC module. Service manual leans towards failing actuator (sticking or bent linkage). If it was the heater core, seems as if you would get little or no airflow through any of the outlets.

If you can get it run, run a diagnostic and post what codes it's showing.

It does sound ridiculous, but it really could be around $300 if they are quoting the new laser-cut keys! My local dealer can't cut them and has to call in a local locksmith (only one guy in the area that has this new laser key cutter. Dealer told me they could not justify the cost of the machine vs the relative few times they would be able to use it. (Forget what he said they were quoted, but it was in the thousands). He showed me one of the new keys and they are completely different; actually need to be cut precisely with a laser. Think he said it was starting on the 2015 model (forget which model it's starting with), but eventually all models in lineup will use new type keys. Think he said they charged they guy over 300 for one key.

It's just five numbers, no letters. Like akirby said, enter a little slower. It the code doesn't take, wait a few seconds before attempting it a second time. After you master this, consider entering your own personal code. Enter the factory code and after you get a confirmation, press the the 1-2 button on the keypad. Then enter your personal entry code. Don't use your home address, telephone number or anything common to yourself. One of the neighbor kids can guess this and, once in the car gain access to the factory code in the fuse panel. (It happened to someone else here in this forum). You must enter each digit within 5 seconds of each other or it will reset. To enter a personal code and activate the memory recall feature (seats, mirrors adjust) after you enter your new personal code, press the 1-2 button for driver number one or 3-4 button for driver number two. If you programmed the entry code properly, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm.

If that model is still on the dealers lot, you could always talk to your salesman and see what the cost differential is in trading your current on for the other. There's always the possibility the dealership will give you a deal as your an existing customer. I would expect the $2000 differential, plus probably a couple or three grand more, for paperwork, closing the existing loan and originating new loan, deprecation costs per blue book, etc. The keyless entry is not worth the money in my opinion. It can (and does) fail, and offers no functionality in driving the car. No big deal to just push a button on the remote, and in the southwest, pushing the remote opens the windows and pops the vista roof (if equipped). This is not something that the keyless entry does by default, so you still have have a remote. I've had this feature on many rental cars and never cared whether I had it or not. Get in a push a button to start is not worth the extra cost over putting a key in the ignition. Remote start is worth it if you in the frozen northern states (locally -10° this week) where it's nice to walk out to your car that already been warmed up. In the southwest it's air conditioning, but I was never able to cool the car adequately in the 10 minute envelope; but it helped.

In the 2013, the easy way to disarm the alarm, is to buckle the seatbelt BEFORE starting the engine. Other than that, the procedure above is correct. I would suggest that you exit the vehicle prior to tunning the ignition switch to the on position. Then follow the procedure after the warning indicator goes off. BTW, the sensor is tied to weight on the seat, not a seatbelt interconnect. (Probably done this way to prevent the belt cheater to work. Believe they switched to this method after they tied the airbags to the system). If you need it, you can download a copy of your owners manual here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13edgom4e.pdf

Not to mention all of those cute little hitch cover plates you can use to cover the receiver opening .......... :-)

Which fuse position did you ended up using?

Yea sadly, my 09 has the factory 1-1/4" receiver. (All they offered back them). I don't currently own a utility trailer (or boat any longer) so it's not that big a deal. Still, 2" would have been nicer. Car only has a 3500 lb towing limit anyway, so 1-1/4" is good as 2" anyway.

Perhaps the former owner had an existing subscription to Ford for this. (I admit I know little to nothing about MFT, but I believe there is a subscription service that has gas prices and other stuff. Somewhere I read, probably this forum, that it was $99/year - or whatever). Anyway, maybe you still are running on a subscription service. Anyone have any experience with this? Can you chime in on what's actually covered?

Try running a diagnostic on the radio/nav unit. Hold radio button 3 & 6 for 3 seconds until the speaker walk test begins. Before the speaker walk test is complete, press the "End Test" selection on the screen. Screen will change to the bezel diagnostics screen, begin by tapping the On Demand Self Test to see if there's any faults in the system. The tap the GPS test to see if that circuit is operating properly. While in the test, pressing the "SV Status" selection provides additional information, if present.

There's always the counter argument, why do want to change the hitch? I've got the class II factory hitch as well, and I don't like it either. But, if I just absolutely need a 2" receiver for some reason, I'll just use a 1-1/4" x 2" adapter. Plug it in when you need it and into the lower storage compartment when you don't. http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Hitch-Extension-Adapter-Anti-Tilt/dp/B00PDENHWQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423900624&sr=1-2&keywords=1-1%2F4+x+2+adapter+hitch

Black is ground, yellow/green strip is the + feed running from the smart junction box, hot at all times but passes through the battery saver circuit, the gray/violet strip is the feed when you open the door. If you use the gr/vi wire, remember it is hot at all times but will shut off after a perod of time (1/2 I believe, but not certain). When I set up my Cobra pos, I used a mirror tap connector. (Just plugs into the back of the mirror). Be careful with these Chinese-made harnesses. Make certain you ohm them out as the one I bought had reversed wiring. (Don't depend on white being ground). If you were to use a mirror tap, blue/orange strip is the accessory feed (car must be in start or run to energize), pin #1, and black is ground, pin #10. The mirror connector has 10 pins, pin #1 is top, passengers side, pin #10 is bottom, driver side. Check the wire color-coding to be certain. This is the one I just bought for my new Escort Max2. http://www.amazon.com/MirrorTap-Series-Radar-Detector-Inline/dp/B006074LT8

Could double up on fuse F41, which is fed from the Accesory Delay Relay.

Here's the procedure for the 2010 Edge (I don't have 2013, but assume it's similar). ****************** * Remove the rear cargo load area. * Remove the foam blocks from the spare tire well. NOTE: Inspect the safety belt lower anchor bolt cover for damage. If the safety belt lower anchor bolt cover does not remain in place, install a new cover. * Remove the safety belt lower anchor bolt cover and remove the safety belt lower anchor bolt. (To install, tighten to 40 lb-ft). * If equipped, remove the cargo net hook. (To install, tighten to 27 lb-in). * Remove the LH quarter trim panel. NOTE: Make sure the pushpin retainers are removed with the quarter trim panel. (Best I can tell from the diagram, there are two push pins located along the bottom center plus one at the end of the panel closest to the rear seat - at the door sill). * Disconnect the electrical connectors, if equipped. * To install, reverse the removal procedure. *************************** I highly doubt that they would have run circuit wires back there if the speakers & amp were not installed. According to the wiring diagrams, power and signal is embedded a in harness that runs along the RH side at the floor, into the RH side of the instrument panel. If, by some chance the wires are there, look for a brown / red stripe for power which comes from the smart junction box, violet / green stripe for the SUB +, green / white stripe for the SUB - (both these will be shielded) & a violet / red stripe for the sub enable. These last three come from the audio control module (radio).

Was the check engine lit? If the PCM is faulty, it will throw a code and light the CE light. Here's what the service manual says about engine shutdown: Computer Controlled Shutdown The PCM controls the PCM power relay when the ignition is turned to the ON or START position, by grounding the PCM relay control (PCMRC) circuit. After the ignition is turned to the OFF, ACC or LOCK position, the PCM stays powered up until the correct engine shutdown occurs. The ignition switch position run (ISP-R) and the injector power monitor (INJPWRM) circuits provide the ignition state input to the PCM. Based on the ISP-R and INJPWRM signals the PCM determines when to power down the PCM power relay. I would suppose that it could be a lot of things, but it does seem to indicate the ignition switch or fuel injector power monitor as where the fault lies. I would lean towards the ignition switch.

The wire from the instrument panel power point is a red wire running directly to F17 ( a 20 amp fuse) of the battery junction box (hot at all times). In order to have this power outlet switched off when the car was off, you would need to cut the wire running to the outlet and run it through a relay http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6 , using quick splice connectors http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-85462-Quick-Waterproof-Splice/dp/B003SYYGXM/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423765071&sr=1-6&keywords=quick+splice+connector The relay coil (+) side would then have to be wired to an existing circuit that is energized only with the ignition switch is in the start or run position. One possible solution, you could tap into the wire running to the HVAC module. It's a violet wire with green stripe, running to terminal #24 of the HVAC module; located in the center consul area, below the radio. (Same for both manual and automatic HVAC systems). The relay (-) wire would simply run to any good ground. You could use the black with gray stripe wire coming from terminal, #23 of the HVAC module, for the ground. By doing this, when the car was shut off, the relay would not be energized and the power outlet source of supply, would be cut. Once the iginition was in the start or run position, the relay would close and energize the outlet. As your only tapping off the HVAC supply, its function would be unhampered; you would only be adding a small milliamp load to the circuit.

Zip ties did indeed work. Have to get them on tight, but their just enought to keep net from sliding off bottom. And because I did not fasten them over the net hook, I can still remove the net by slipping it off. Thanks for the heads up!

Do the interior lights come on when you rotate the dimmer switch to the dome lamp position? If yes, it's probably one of door ajar switch(s) hanging up for dirt, old grease, etc. Try opening each door and spraying WD-40 into each door latch. Then open and close each door several times to free it up. If the interior lights do not come on with the dimmer switch, the smart junction box probably has a fault in it. (Secondary options include broken wires, corroded connections, etc).

I have gasbuddy on my phone as well, and Travel Link on the MKX. What I like about travel link is, not only gives you the gas prices in your vicinity, but you can also pick one on the display and the nav unit will set it as the destination. Makes it easy to use in a strange city rather that struggling with a phone, set at night. Was on business in Louisville earlier this year and had to find a gas station before I checked in to the hotel. Would have been lost had I relied on Gasbuddy, with all the one-way streets and whatnot. Plus you get some extras, like local movies, weather radar. It's easily worth the $2 a month IMO.

I have an 09 MKX and get the gas station names and info, but not prices. As that would be in real time, it has to be coming in from somewhere. My guess is you are getting updates through your iphone. To test this, you could try this feature with your phone off (do not link before you drive ) and see if you still are getting gas prices. I have Sirius Travel Link and get gas prices on the Travel Link screen, but it does not link to the nav screen. (At least I don't think it does, never seen it do this). Any chance the former owner had an annual subscription to Sirius that may still be continuing? You could check for a Travel Link connection on the info screen.

Looks great!

I have an 09 MKX. Did Ford/Lincoln change the design in the 09 or will I need to be concerned in the future as well?