enigma-2

All instrument lighting is powered by the F10 fuse (15 a) in the smart junction box (near drivers feet). Assuming the fuse is good, (as most other instrument lightng "is" working), I would try eliminate where the failure is occurring (localized or global). I would recommend the following troubleshooting procedure (note that this is not in the service manual, I'm making it up as I go along :-) As I see it, the simplest test is to pull the headlight switch and test terminal #5 for voltage when headlamps are on (terminal #5 is where the feed for the headlamp switch instrument lighting is powered from). GLOBAL failure. If voltage is NOT present on terminal #5, follow the violet with gray stripe wire back to the S209 connector - and that would be the only possible common denominator common to the failures you described (assuming that the other lamp switches, such as HVAC, tailgate, etc. ARE operating). Connector S209 is in the main harness tucked up inside the instrument panel. All of the various instrument lamps are fed from this point. Normally, it would be unusual for a connection to fail, however in a hot, humid region, connector S209 could become corroded on just a few terminals and cause these problems. LOCALIZED failures. If voltage IS present, power is getting into the switch (and probably everywhere else) and you can assume that the headlamp switch LED is defective and probably all of the other failures are also localized (and unrelated). Power to terminal #5 of the headlight switch indicates the problem in the LED in the switch and the entire switch would need replacing. (Power for the fog lamp indicator comes in on terminal #7 on the headlight switch, passes through the fog light switch and out on terminal #6 of the switch. Totally separate, unrelated circuit). For the floor shifter, pull the cover and verify the the bulb is good. According to the service manual, Ford uses an incandescent bulb for this function, and it's possible that it has burned out. (All of the others use LEDs.) The steering wheel switches are all tied together. They are also fed from at connector S209 in the main harness and come up the column through the clockspring. Most likely the failure is in the clockspring behind the steering wheel, but that's only a guess. All of the wires feeding power to the instrument lighting in the various switches are colored violet with gray stripe. Good luck, Dennis

My 09 MKX has a two-tone interior, camel over charcoal with ebony wood. Is this what you're thinking of?

Check this video out before you splurge on the 24's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEP2Q1cu7ao

FYI, here's an excellent video on YouTube showing how to clean the evaporator housing using Lubegard's Kool-It. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi22mdXj3wM

First I would check the fuses. Check F18 (20 a) in the battery jubction box (under the hood). Check F17 (20 a) and F41 (15 a) in the smart junction box (near drivers feet). If the fuses are good, the common link of shade not working and switches reversed is the "Roof Opening Panel Motor Assembly". It's possible that the motor assy. did not re-initialize properly when the battery was connected. Try a Roof Opening Panel Motor re-Initialization sequence. 1. Start the engine. 2. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sliding glass panel is in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. 3. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sunshade panels are in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. 4. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch (for at least 10 seconds). * For a new drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop, stall and then move backward a few millimeters and then forward. * For an existing drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop and stall. * The sunshade panels will move toward their front hard-stops, stall, move back a few millimeters, then forward. * After the sunshade panels have finished moving backward and forward, release the roof opening panel control switch. 5. NOTE: The roof opening panel control switch must be held during the entire initialization process or the sequence will be aborted and the roof will remain in a de-initialized state. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch. * The sliding glass panel and sunshades will fully open together. Then, the sliding glass panel will close first and then the sunshades will return to the fully CLOSED position. When the sunshades have stopped moving, release the roof opening panel control switch. 6. Initialization is now complete. Verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch vent (glass) and one-touch open for the shades. * If roof opening panel does not operate correctly, repeat Steps 2 through 5.

With all that adhesive, probably throw the balance off again LOL.

Strange. My Sirius only drops in the garage (spotty, still locks in), and under underpasses. Have no problems with trees.

opps, sorry. Thought it was only available as a $2500 upgrade option (vacuum and high end sound system). Stll, $200 for a vacuum cleaner you can only use in a single car. Ahhhhhhhh no.

Well for my car and an extra $35k belive I'll turn the headrests around, add clip-on drink holders and manually check the tires. Would be nice if the ratching headrests could be added though.

Even tilted all the way down it's still not low enough? Does moving the steering wheel in or out fit better? My wife is short (5'-3") and she likes to raise the seat all the way up, drop the wheel angle all the way down and bring it out about halfway. Says she feels conformable with it that way.

Yup. And it only costs $2500. :~》

I would suspect a broken belt. Some tires don't like changing the direction they rotate. Way to check is to rotate tires front to back and see if vibration changes.

What change you like to make on your Edge or MKX? Like to change my 09 MKX headrests to the newer adjustable rypes. Like to add additional drink holders in the back doors (reason is, when we take the kids with us, grandson baby seat blocks the only drink holders and no place for drinks for the backseat passengers). Like to have direct readout on individual tire pressures instead of DOT minimums. So what would you add?

Just for fun, after stripping the badges, you could add some unknown brand of badge such as Terrafugia TF-X (flying car that takes off like a helicopter and flies like a plane). Could prove interesting.

Perhaps FoMoCo changed suppliers?

The power liftgate does not operate correctly — reverses during the power close operation 1. Circuitry 2. Power liftgate latch 3. Position sensor 4. LTM 5. Power liftgate rod 6. Pinch strips 7. Mechanical binding Pinpoint Test D: The Power Liftgate Does Not Operate Correctly — Reverses During the Power Close Operation This pinpoint test is intended to diagnose the following: * Mechanical binding * Power liftgate latch striker alignment * Power liftgate latch * Power liftgate motor * LTM * Wedges * Wiring, terminals or connectors D1 CHECK THE MANUAL OPERATION OF THE LIFTGATE Turn the power liftgate OFF (disable) from the message center. While manually opening and closing the liftgate, check the liftgate for: liftgate/wedge alignment. strut operation (struts should push open liftgate when beyond half open). power liftgate rod (should move freely while manually opening and closing liftgate and should be securely mounted to the liftgate and bracket). power liftgate latch (should latch completely). Does the liftgate open and close correctly? D1 CHECK THE MANUAL OPERATION OF THE LIFTGATE Turn the power liftgate OFF (disable) from the message center. While manually opening and closing the liftgate, check the liftgate for: liftgate/wedge alignment. strut operation (struts should push open liftgate when beyond half open). power liftgate rod (should move freely while manually opening and closing liftgate and should be securely mounted to the liftgate and bracket). power liftgate latch (should latch completely). Does the liftgate open and close correctly? Yes If the liftgate reverses near the midpoint of travel, GO to D2 . If the liftgate reverses near or at the latch, GO to D11 . No REPAIR as necessary. ALIGN as necessary. REFER to Liftgate Alignment in this section. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the LTM self-test. There's only so much you can do without special equipment. My guess is mechanical misalignment or possibly the wedges are off. Follow procedure above and see if you can sense any binding or misalignment. Watch how door interfaces with wedge on each side.

I kicked it around and finally decided to subscribe. Really enjoy picking up news channels such as CNN, FOX, etc. One of my favorite channels is Willie's Roadhouse (old country hits), pop hits from the 50's & 60's, few others. Comedy channels when I'm bored.

Any lights on the warning panel? Loose gas cap?

Chuckel. It's off topic, but this reminded me of something. I was in the Marine air wing and when new guys reported for duty who had an attitude, I would send them out to other sqadrons to pick up a 5 gallon pail of "rotor wash" or a few feet of "flight line". Lost one guy for three days.

Time before last took my MKX in for an oIL change. Asst service manager ran over and started to check my car over. "Tires ok, wiper blades ok, oh, oh wait, your rear window wiper is worn out. We should put a new one on." I then informed him in a rather loud voice that I had replaced it only a month earlier! That stopped his little game and had no problems after that. All dealers try to sell their product. But I would get a second opinion as this seems a little suspicious.

I would lean towards the fan sensor being bad. If it happens only at idle and low speeds, it's definitely the radiator fan. (At highway speeds there's enough air flowing through the radiator the keep the engine cool).

Hey EDST777, when I click on the video it reads "video is private" and doesnt play. Only thing left would be the large actuator. Could try disconnecting it and see if that's what is pulling the door down.

I had problems at first, finally pulled the car out into the street and was able to make the link work. Needs a perfectly clear path to the satellite. (Had problems when in the garage and when under a large tree. Great reception in garage after initial linkup.)

Reading the reviews on tirerack.Com one got 44k (and felt that had they been rotated during the first 13k would have gotten 50k), and the second got 49k. Have these one my wife's Sebring convertible and expect 50-60k. Excellent tires, quiet, smooth and excel traction. Tire pressure & rotation are key factors to longevity.

My guess is that it might be misaligned.