enigma-2

My sensors are flush-mounted into the rear bumper. Where exactly did you mount your surface-mount camera, and what vehicle do you have? I've been thinking about a bracket-mount just above my license plate, (between the license plate lights) simular to the '15 Edge I was looknig at yesterday (only mine would be lower down as the license plate is in the bumper on an 09 MKX. That would put it just above the trailer hitch. I'm concerned that the camera would get covered with dirt and water being so low down).

I was looking at one similar, Amazon, $20. One question I haven't resolved yet is, does the camera connection just plug into the OEM head unit? I have navigation and sync (1st gen). Haven't pulled the HU yet to see if there's a "vid in" jack, but was reading that it was an option on the 09 MKX. This is the camera I was thinking about: http://www.amazon.com/Esky-EC170-06-Waterproof-Backup-0-86X0-65X0-50-inch/dp/B00GSFIJS6/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I agree with your thinking about it being the SecurilLock System. Starter thinks the doors are not locked and having a hissy fit over it. Got to thinking, my 09 MKX has the following procedure used to program the remotes, could try this to see if it works: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Please read and understand the entire procedure before you begin. 1. Insert the first previously programmed coded key into the ignition. 2. Turn the ignition from the 1 (off) position to the 3 (on) position. Keep the ignition in the 3 (on) position for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 3. Turn the ignition to the 1 (off) position and remove the first coded key from the ignition. 4. Within 10 seconds of turning the ignition to the 1 (off) position, insert the second previously coded key into the ignition. 5. Turn the ignition from the 1 (off) position to the 3 (on) position. Keep the ignition in the 3 (on) position for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 6. Turn the ignition to the 1 (off) position and remove the second previously programmed coded key from the ignition. 7. Within 20 seconds of turning the ignition to the 1 (off) position and removing the previously programmed coded key, insert the new unprogrammed key (new key/valet key) into the ignition. 8. Turn the ignition from the 1 (off) position to the 3 (on) position. Keep the ignition in the 3 (on) position for at least six seconds. 9. Remove the newly programmed coded key from the ignition. If the key has been successfully programmed it will start the vehicle’s engine and will operate the remote entry system (if the new key is an Integrated Keyhead Transmitter). The theft indicator light will illuminate for three seconds and then go out to indicate successful programming. If the key was not successfully programmed, it will not start your vehicle’s engine and/or will not operate the remote entry features. The theft indicator light may flash on and off. Wait 20 seconds and you may repeat Steps 1 through 8. If failure repeats, bring your vehicle to your authorized dealer to have the new key(s) programmed. To program additional new unprogrammed key(s), wait 20 seconds and then repeat this procedure from Step 1.

Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow.

Installed the mirror harness (from Amazon). Need to be cautious, it was wired backward, the black wire was positive (center contact) and the red was was negative (exterior shell). The mirror has several wires going into it, the black is ground (upper extreme right side - relatively speaking) and the positive when ignition on is the blue (lower extreme left - relatively speaking). Other than that is works perfectly, nice to get rid of the stretched-to-the-max coiled cord.

White Platinum Tri-Coat. Medium Light Stone interior.

See if this helps: http://www.f150forum.com/f2/remote-start-valet-mode-help-52617/ Might take a look here as well: http://www.ehow.com/how_5159008_troubleshoot-ford-remote-starter.html Also remember reading where this happened to someone else. He had to reprogram his remotes. Believe he turned the ignition switch to on, then off, eight times, locks cycled and he hit button on his his entry remote, then turned off the key. Remote start worked afterward. Had something to do with the car not thinking it was locked or something like that. (Refused to start thinking it was vulnerable). Procedure for your car should be in you owners manual.

One quirk I have with my new 09 MKX is the auto dimming mirror. It gets dimmer with rear headlights OK, but it never really goes back to being completely bright during the day (unless I put the car in reverse). I can get it to go completely "bright" (100% non-dimmed) by manually compensating (and it goes completely clear), but afterwords slowly fades to about 30-40% dimmed position. (Also turning on either map light causes it to dim). Is this normal; does everyone else's operate this way, or is mine defective?

Hate to keep beating this dead horse, but thought y'all like an update. OK, following the owners manual and erase all old user codes. Verified that both those I entered are erased. Checked the code inside the fuse box: worked. Checked the code the dealer read when he used the computer: worked. I'm able to program the user codes using BOTH codes!!!!! Both act as factory programed codes. It certainly appears that there are two factory codes (at least on my car). Any other ideas? This is unnerving to say the least.

Five! Based on Akirby's reply, and yours, that kind of makes me a little nervous. Thanks for the information, I'll need to figure out how to erase the old codes. I wonder why it stores four user codes? It would seem to reason that two is sufficient. Allowing the previous owner to retain access to my car is unnerving.

Oh yes, so that's it. Thanks, that's good to know. How would I go about erasing the old codes?

That's what I thought at first, as well. But I do have four separate, distinct entry codes that will open the door. 1. The factory programmed code (printed inside the fuse box): 67*** 2. The code the dealer read from my computer: 49*** 3. My first programmed code (stored at 1/2): 03*** 4. My second programmed code (stored at 3/4): 07*** What I find curious is, why didn't the dealer find the factory number, when he read my car with the laptop? The one that starts with 67? Instead he found the second number. But I do have four numbers that work, just when out to the car and tried them all. Seems to me that if it had been the previous owner's number, I would have erased it when I programmed my new number. They do overwrite, don't they? Or do they accumulate (which could be dangerous). As the dealer read the second number from my computer, I assumed that there are at least two factory codes programmed (at least in my 09 MKX). Could there be some sort of universal code set , like a backdoor, for all Lincoln's or all Ford's, for example?

1) Passenger door handle: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=U0Uulmry6tQQ2AwMtWPGPA%3d%3d&id=295370693&m=2&search=true&year=2009&make=Lincoln&model=MKX 2) The radio knob, try a local junk yard off a dead radio, (there are several on the internet that you could email or check out the listings on Ebay and find a dealer that selling used radios. They may be able to supply you a couple of knobs from a dead radio); or substitute both knobs from one here: http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&node=15684181&keywords=replacement+radio+knob&tag=mh0b-20&hvadid=4960775699&ref=pd_sl_5uk9au1c1k_b 3) Rust: have it fixed on the cheap, or there is a special primer that converts rust to prime (and stops future rusting). When dry, follow with some dupli-Color. (If it's white suede metallic, you will need to use a two-part system to match). http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=rust+primer&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Arust+primer 4) Moulding is held on by adhesive. I would drop by your local dealer's body shop and ask what they would do. 5) Rechromming would be very expensive and difficult. You could try: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_8_6?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=chrome+paint&sprefix=chrome%2Cautomotive%2C303&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Achrome+paint 6) Same as above 7) Glue it back on with rubber cement. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=rubber+cement&sprefix=chrome%2Cautomotive%2C303&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Arubber+cement Good luck.

I had the same problem with my old 4-door Mercury Sable. Fixed it by spraying WD-40 into each of the door latch mech. (Turned out it was the rear passenger that was hanging up. Old greese probably. Happened twice while I owned it, so I started spraying WD-40 into the locks once every year.

Just thought I would add a postscript to the question of keyless entry. When I bought my 09 a couple of weeks ago, I had them hook up a computer and read the factory-programmed combination. They did, and when I read the previous replies, checked inside my fuse box and found an entirely different number! Tried both and they both work. Apparently, Ford (Lincoln in my case) programs uses two different combinations. Got to wondering if the number they read in the computer was the previous owner's number, reprogrammed both owner memories with new numbers and rechecked; both factory numbers still work. So now I have four different numbers that will open my MKX.

Wife and I were at Sams Club yesterday, I thought I would browse their automotive section. Seen where they are selling a complete wireless backup monitoring system; consists of a wireless camera, mounts to the car with suction cup , and a wireless monitor, again with suction cup. Whole installation should take about ten minutes. Sells for $99.50. Granted, a suction cup camera will only last for a couple of days before a kid rips it off in a parking lot, but the concept was interesting. I suppose one could mount the camera inside the vehicle, in the rear tailgate window. Would still need to charge the battery occasionally. Be somewhat of a pain. Not entirely practical, but interesting.

I'm new to the forum and I guess I really don't understand to the problem, but... I assume the flashing rate speeds up because the mechanical flasher is not drawing enough current. It seems that the fix should be simple enough, why not just switch out the old flasher unit with an electronic one? An electronic flasher (that is a single relay) will flash your lights at the same rate whether they are incandescent or LED. I assume you all thought of this, so what am I missing?

I read the link, if the pins fall out so easily, why not just wire-tie the cord to the mirror mount for strain relief? Believe I will purchase a mirror power cable, does seem to be exactly was I was looking for.

Alas, neither will work on a Cobra. Guess I'll either resign myself to running an outdated detector, or spending $400 for a new V1. Thanks for the reply.

Thinking of purchasing a wire harness to connect my {old} Cobra radar detector to my rear-view mirror wiring (get rid of cord running down to the power outlet). Has anyone installed this type of harness (or similar) in their Edge/MKX? Were you able to get the pins pushed into the rear view mirror connector? As I understand it, the "poor" ratings of this harness are based on the connector being wired backward, if so, should be easy enough to verify and reverse. re: http://www.amazon.com/PerformancePackageTM-Radar-Detector-MirrorWire-Power/dp/B00I4FABFC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414945042&sr=8-2&keywords=cobra+radar+wire

I would try to open the VistaRoof and close it again. Guessing that the Roof didn't activate the limit switch that signals it being closed (allowing the sunshades to begin close procedure).

Just bought a used 2009 Lincoln MKX and while checking out the car on the lot, was amazed that there was no rust on the under-body. No undercoating either. (I actually crawled under the car on the lot to check out the under-body). Anyway, that's pretty much unheard of here in Northern Indiana with all the salt they use on the roads. County highway started using a liquid slurry a few years back that's even worst for cars. Car's history was Michigan, then Ohio and finally they moved to Northern Indiana. So It's been continuously exposed to road salt. The dealer told me they don't undercoat anymore, just put one of these modules on. Six year-old car and not a speck of rust on the under-body. I had never heard of an electronic module that stops a car from rusting, but this one had it one it since new. The previous owner took the module off and took it with him, so I decided to have a new one put on. It has a 10-year warranty through the dealer against rusting. (Dealer's body shop takes care of any rust that pops up). According to the literature they gave me, it only works on cars that have galvanized bodies (doesn't work on bare steel). When a stone hits to under-body, it breaks the galvanized coating, exposing the steel. The galvanizing starts to bleed over the injured area, however before it can completely, there is some sort of reaction (an oxide forms) and slow or prevents the galvanizing from completing the repair, before the rust starts. I guess the way it works is, the module sends out a pulsating RF frequency wave and is supposed to prevent the oxide from forming, allowing time for the galvanizing to cover the wound. My last car was undercoated and had rusted out all over the underbody from the salt. Used to run it through the local car wash during the winter months as well. (Reason I traded it, damage got to be too extensive to repair any longer. Anyone had any experience with one of these modules? I've read that they're snake oil & not effective on cars, but seeing how clean it was underneath shocked me, nearly like new (even through it had gone through six winters in the north).