enigma-2

Had a coworker who leased. When he went to take the car back, the dealer inspected the vehicle and wrote a complete report of everything they could find; door dings, scrapes, scratches, etc. In his case, they charged him the full cost of making all of the repairs not covered by the contract. A few weeks later he got another bill for a ding the dealer had missed, from the leasing agency. Your contract should call out everything allowed and everything beyond that you will be responsible for the full retail cost of each and all repairs. (The car must be returned in the same, exact condition as leased (less that allowed as normal wear). I would carefully reread the contract and arrange to make any repair outside the contract good at a better price before you take the car back (when its too late). If your uncertain, why not drop by the dealer and have the sales manager take a look; as it appears (on the surface) that you may be responsible for the cost of new wheels. And that's not a minor cost if you have to pay retail.

He told me that he would just pump out the old fluid and (I think he said) pump the new fluid in. Don't see why they would need to go through dropping the unit just to change fluid. Suppose in the long run it's a better procedure but I'm happy with just getting in the new fluid.

After reading about this problem here on this forum, I decided to have my local dealer change the fluid while I had my 09 in for its 90k. Service tech questioned whether I needed it, had him call out the head mechanic & and he said definitely, wish Lincoln would have added this into the maintenance schedule. They charged $75, said it was because the fluid cost $22 a quart.

Curious. Just a random thought on this, there are 3 different modes that can be used to determine trip distance to end point (fastest, most direct & ECO). Wonder if the nav display is reading mosr direct & instrument panel reading fastest? Is it possible to even change this (don't have a 2012 to verify)?

Yea, sewn using silver threads and golden needles. The Mustang coupe is listed at $48k. Guess I'm just out of it. Figure $72k at $500 a month payment takes 12 years to pay off. Didn't have the guts to ask the salesman what the vehicle leased for (didn't want to get him started, showroom empty and he looks sort of desperate .)

At local Ford dealer getting my 09 90k service. Looking around showroom. Looked at a 2015 Navigator - $72,000! Damn.

My 09 MKX goes in Tues morning for its 90k checkup (Inc changing plugs). When I made my appointment the service mgr told me if I let the plug gap get too big, the coils which are mounted on the plugs will draw extra current and could fail. Said they see this about twice a year. A coil replacement goes for 6-7 hundred (forget the exact price he mentioned).

Can't wash these filters as their paper. Have to be replaced.

Sounds very unusual to me. All of my cracked windshields were from getting hit by a rock. Insurance should cover it 100% and last one I had replaced was done in the parking lot while I was working.

Why the door pockets were designed to hold a bag of Werther's, of course.

First press locks doors. The second press within three seconds will lock the doors again and beep the horn once to acknowledge all doors, hood and hatch are closed and locked. (Two beeps indicate one or more are not closed completely and the car is not secure).

How about using 2 layers of 3/4" OSB under the floor mat? You could buy a 4x4 piece at Lowe's or Manards, cut it in half and use the carpeted floor mat as a templete. Glue/ fasten the two pieces together and the floor on her side would be raised 1-1/2". (2 pieces of 5/8" would raise 1-1/4", 2-pieces of 1/2" would raise the floor 1".) Anyway, the wood is water resistant (I would still use Weathertech in the inclimate weather) and if slightly smaller that the carpet, would not show.

Perhaps something like this would work OK. Lightweight, inexpensive and perfectly designed for this exact situation. Just "raise" her seat up to adjust the knee angle. http://www.wayfair.com/Go-Travel-Foot-Rest-Ottoman-475-GOTR1083.html

The cushion is higher in the back which raises the back side, lower in the front. (Changes the angle of how you set). A lot of short people wrote about how it helped them drive better. Thought it might be worth a look. Lower the seat all the way down and raise up the back side, might be the way to go.

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My last car started "clicking" when it got older. Finally able to track it down to rust causing a couple of spot welds to break. Popping was metal panels flexing.

Fairly common complaint for shorter people. My wife whines that my last car had more comfortable seats (she's 5'-3"). It had fabric seats, the MKX has leather which you slide around on more. And the seats are just a little too long in front, resulting in crowing the backs of her knees (the Merc Sable had shorter seat bottoms). Anyway, why not look into a good quality seat cushion, one higher in back than in front. Here's a good example, rated 5 (out of 5) stars on Amazon (77 ratings), one reported she was 5' and worked perfectly, one reports she had back problems, etc. Might be exactly what she needs. http://www.amazon.com/Cushion-Support-Anti-Flatten-Clever-Breathable/dp/B00Q5HXQ9O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1441227795&sr=8-5&keywords=automotive+cushion

LOL. I found it informative thar 22's (in this case) give worse fuel economy, slower acceleration and reduced braking (vs the 17's he uses for winter tires.) Personally I completely agree with you, I wouldn't want to give up my 20's either. They do look great. Nice to understand all of the facts surrounding larger tires however.

Shade attached to rear headrests and sides, folded flush to back seat (out of the way). It's a little hard to make out, but if you look carefully you can see both cargo nets I use for groceries. By using two nets, we are able to get all of the groceries sacks in one of the other of the nets, keeping them from falling over. (Can remove both in a few seconds if needed). Shade extended out into security position Looking in from back door across back seat (into rear cargo area)

Shade attached to rear headrests and sides, folded flush to back seat (out of the way). It's a little hard to make out, but if you look carefully you can see both cargo nets we use for groceries. By using two nets, we are able to get all of the groceries sacks in one of the other of the nets, keeping them from falling over. (Can remove both in a few seconds if needed). Shade extended out into security position Looking in from back door across back seat (into rear cargo area)

Hey brandonain82, what did you think of the video. Did it poop in your pudding or are you still considering going with the 24's?

If the (good) fuse was in the fuse holder, I would expect to see 12v on both sides. If you measured with the fuse out, yes, I would expect to see 12 volts on the power side & 0 volts on the load side. If you measured with the fuse in and getting 12v on one side and 6v on the other, you have a fairly large voltage drop across the fuse. (Try a different fuse). If you got these readings with the fuse out, have no idea where the 6v feedback is coming from. Look over the wiring diagrams and see if you have lights on the other instruments and switches. If you don't, it can be isolated to a power supply problem (blown fuse, short, defective smart J-box or dimmer switch failure, etc). {To test, you could pull fuse (isolate circuit) and jumper a wire from another known good supply to the load side of where the fuse connected and see it the lights work. If they do, it isolates it to the smart junction box.} If you are only getting lighting failures on certain switches, etc. then the power is (probably) good and it's a question of where the common point of the supply is failing. (I suspected connection point S209 as the common point - see schematics). Because you added the puddle lights, they run directly from the smart J-box (fuse box) and no where else (parallel to the rest of the lights). Therefore I suspect the smart junction box (but only of all instrument the lighting is out).

That helps a little. The puddle lights are also fed from the same fuse. As the furse was bad but now good and you still are having problems, I'm beginning to suspect the smart junction box as the culprit. (Problem is, not everything fed from fuse #10 was reported as being non-working). I'll attach copies of the wiring diagrams. Perhaps that will help. Puddle lighting.pdf Interior lighting(1).pdf Interior lighting(2).pdf

When you open the liftgate manually, does the liftgate open itself automatically after you lift it say 1/3 of the way? If not, I might suspect that the lift cylindars need replacing.

OEM. In all honesty I'm not really disappointed in it. It disappears when I don't need it and works well (enough) when I need it.I did pick up an OEM retractable shade at a garage sale for free and thought about adapting it to my mkx. Problem is it's harder to store (and the obvious problems of modifying it ). But the vinyl shade works fine for me.