enigma-2

I highly doubt that you will find replacement buttons for a radio. I'm guessing that the radios are made in China and even if not, once a model year is over the stock of remaining parts is probably pitched to make room for the current year. (Unless they offer a refreshing service and must retain old stock). Perhaps try contacting a local radio repair shop (do they even exist any more) and see if they can contact the manufacturer for replacement knobs. Otherwise, perhaps a dead unit off Ebay? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ford+radio+knobs Only thing I can think of is, using a sheet of glossy Avery labels, print the functions that you want (perhaps 4-6pt Ariel) with a background color to match the radio knobs; cut out the out and paste over the old knobs. (Or maybe using a clear, transparent label material instead of coloring a white label)? If you use Word or Word-perfect you could also do symbols to match the original. Here's a site that offers ford knobs: http://replacementradios.com/buttonsknobs-c-290_319_531.html

As you get heat on the passenger side, there's really only a couple of things it could be. I would have them check the driver's-side temperature blend door & actuator, for a binding or broken condition. (Most likey sticking). If nothing is found, then I would suspect the HVAC module.

Been thinking about that. If I can be nosy, what does something like that cost?

On my 09 MKX, Blue/Orange stripe + feed (from smart junction box through accessory delay relay) Green / Brown stripe reversing lamps Blue / Gray stripe power mirrors + Brown power mirrors - Gray / Blue strip compass + Blue / Gray stripe compass - Yellow / Green stripe mic + Blue mic - DMM13 mic shield Black mirror ground

I remember following a thread on Bobistheoilguy.com in which this filter system was widely discussed. Overall consensus was that it was the worst air filter available to use on a car. (If you have never been to his site, it is without question thew best website on engine oil and filtration for cars, period) Here is the website for the air filter tests. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-filtration-test/ (Besides oils and air filtration, thay also have good forums on tires & wheels, lubrication, additives, general automotive). http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm In the forums, several talked about how the K&N filter was originally designed for racing and that each race engine was broken down after each race, (if I remember correctly it paralleled a thread where race drivers also use non-detergent oil instead of detergent during a race for the same reasons). A passenger automobile is however is designed to run for thousands of miles between oil/air cleaner changes. Problem if I remember was the filter medium did not restrict the finest particles of grit, allowing more air flow but allowing the smallest particles to pass through, those that did the most harm to the cylinder walls, etc. (Think it was related to allowing particles under 100 microns to pass through, but don't quote me on that). Several respondents (most identified themselves as mechanics or otherwise appeared to be to talk on the subject, Bob the author of the site is a mechanical engineer) argued that the greater MPG increase is due to greater airflow into the engine due to less filtration, and causing scouring of the cylindar walls and other harm to the engine. (In fairness, there were a couple who disputed this, but they appeared to be normal drivers like myself, not mechanics, and seemed to have a personal interest in using the filter). Here's the page on testing, look carefully at the pictures of the K&N filters and how much dirt was allowed through. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-filter-filtration-test/ As to your problem, I believe that the mass air flow sensor monitors the airflow volume (and temperature) of the incoming air stream. It's probably detecting too much air flow and setting a code thinking that the OEM air filter is defective. Personally, I feel it's ridiculous to believe that the major automobile manufacturers would not know about this and would have adopted it's use should it (K&N) proved to provide more MPG. Consider they spend millions in research to improve gas mileage and if a $10 filter would give 2-3 more MPG, it's a no brainer to use it. They don't because they know it causes serious problems in an engine over time. Personally I would never consider using anything other than a standard OEM Motorcraft filter (air & oil) in my car. Related to this, Bob also did evaluations covering all oil filters and Motorcraft was rated as one of the best. (Mobile One was best, but a nearly $20 filter seemed that was just throwing money away). A lot of cheap filters sold at WalmMart & the like, were rated unacceptable (allowed oil to leak around the seals - if the filter even had internal seals). If I remember correctly (haven't been back there in a while), Fram was one of the worst, had all kinds of internal problems.

Akirby is right, there is a tolerance that the speedometer can read during normal operation. Here's what the service manual says about it. Pinpoint Test I: Inaccurate Speedometer Indication Normal Operation The PCM calculates the vehicle speed from the transaxle Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor input and from the tire size and axle ratio configuration in the PCM Vehicle Identification (VID) block. The PCM provides the Instrument Cluster (IC) with the vehicle speed data over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) bus. The IC monitors the vehicle speed input and commands the speedometer with a corresponding movement of the pointer. The IC provides a tolerance which biases the speed indication and allows the gauge to display between 3% lower and 7% higher than the actual vehicle speed. This means that with an actual vehicle speed of 96.6 km/h (60 mph), the speedometer may indicate between 93.7-103.3 km/h (58.2-64.2 mph). Other factors that can potentially affect the speedometer accuracy are incorrect tire size, tire size configuration and axle ratio configuration. If the IC does not receive the vehicle speed data from the PCM for 5 seconds or less, the IC defaults the speedometer to the last setting, based upon the last known good vehicle speed message. If the IC does not receive the vehicle speed data from the PCM for more than 5 seconds or if the data received is deemed invalid, the IC sets DTC U0100 in continuous memory and defaults the speedometer to 0 km/h (0 mph). NOTE: If DTC U0100 is set in the IC , other observable symptoms may be an inoperative tachometer, temperature gauge or odometer. One thing this brings to mind is having your PCM recalibrated after you do a tire size change.

Thought I'd pass this along if anyone has been looking for new wheels. TireRack.Com clearance started today, ad states up to 60% off on wheels. Looked for my 20" tires and they have 13 wheels, starting at $179 each & up to 28% off. And if your really in to it, they have some for over $1000 each. ;-) http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/index.jsp?camefrom=&fromIndex=true&isDom=false&index=xx&search=&autoMake=&autoModel=&autoYear=&autoModClar=

Just guessing, but the one common denominator for all of these problems is they all originate at the Smart Junction Box. Perhaps a corroded connector feeding the SJB? (Under instrument consul, left of driver).

Heh. Wait till you find out their all in Chineese metric thread .... :-)

Well, tried it this weekend and it doesn't really work. Still pops off the peg. Really poor design by Ford. Thinking about using a Dremal and making some "indentations" on each side of the peg. (Too cold to do anything right now).

This what you're looking for? http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=black+ford+emblem&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=3527191690&ref=pd_sl_24w41fn2co_e

Here's the procedure from the service manual: Removal and Installation 1. NOTE: Release the upper steering column shroud by pressing inward on the sides of the shroud and lifting upwards. Remove the upper steering column shroud. 2. Release the tilt lever, remove the 3 lower steering column shroud screws and the shroud. 3. Disconnect the multifunction switch electrical connector. 4. Remove the 2 multifunction switch screws and remove the switch. 5. To install, reverse the removal procedure. If you want to test it after removal, hold the switch so that the connector at the bottom right. Terminal #1 will be at top left, #16 is at the bottom right. When the switch is in the off position, measure between terminals #12 & #15 and it should be open (no continuity). (#12 is the low int connector).

Tried it and it does seem to work. Will know better when we go to the store tomorrow. Thanks for the idea.

Standard OEM factory halogen bulbs. (Silver-star actually). I would guess that aftermarket HID can NOT be switched in this manor as it may cause problems with the ballast or electronics. Best to check with the Mgr of your equipment. (Was it designed for this or was it never considered)? However I'm fairly certain that OEM HID can be turned on as it a standard feature of all modern Ford and Lincoln autos. LED's are a big question mark IMO. The lighting circuit uses a FET in the smart J-box to do the switching and the micro computes the actual frequency. It's possible that the LED's may not draw sufficient current draw for the circuitry to recognize, or, more realistically, may cause the LED's to flicker (standard incandescent filament bulbs don't really go on and off, the filament continues to glow even when current is off, not so with LEDs, they will switch completely on and off when the current switches on and off. No persistence). If so, I doubt the flickering would pass state DOT or federal FMVSS requirements & possibly draw the attention of a cop for having an illegal setup.

Thought I would pass on something I learned today. May help someone else. Was at my local dealer today, had been told in the past that I did not have the proper equipment for DRL. Called other dealers and was given the same spiel. (09 Lincoln MKX). Anyway, while checking in for a door lock problem (turned out it was frozen), I asked to also have my DRL turned on. They told me they could not do that and I handed them copies of pages from the Ford service manual showing the procedure. They looked surprised and said OK. $45 later and now I have DRL's. According to the manual, DRL's are controlled through the smart junction box (also known as the Generic Electronic Module). Procedure is for the dealer to connect his Vehicle Communication Module with the correct Integrated Diagnostic System (software) and simply set a flag to on, under the DRL section. When the DRL is active, the smart junction box provides a "Pulse Width Modulated" voltage to the low beam headlamps. This illuminates the headlamps at a reduced intensity. (Basically it turns the low beams on and off rapidly, with a 50% duty cycle. This results in a dimmer output, (but the light looks continuous). Conditions: Ignition switch in run position, car NOT in park, headlight switch in auto, on, parking lamps position. (Be aware that when running on DRL's, the tail lamps are NOT turned on). Service manual I have, is for 09,10 Ford Edge and Lincoln MKX; but probably a standard function on ALL edge's and MKX's. Hope this will help others who may also want DRL's on their car, Dennis

From the service manual; The parking aid system is enabled when the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the REVERSE ® gear is selected. The parking aid system is disabled if a fault is detected in 1 of the 4 sensors, the parking aid speaker, or the Parking Aid Module (PAM) . This is indicated by the parking aid disabled warning in the message center. The PAM is on the MS-CAN and can be diagnosed with a scan tool.

Here's what I have in my 09 mkx service manual: Power Liftgate Initialization NOTE: The power liftgate may not operate correctly under the following conditions: A low voltage or dead battery A disconnected battery Repairs/adjustments have been made to the power liftgate rod, power liftgate motor, liftgate hinges or liftgate striker If any of these conditions has occurred, the power liftgate must be reinitialized. NOTE: Battery power must be removed from the Liftgate/Trunk Module (LTM) for 20 seconds before the LTM will enter the initialization mode. Disconnect the battery or remove the LTM fuse(s). Wait 20 seconds and reconnect the battery or reinstall the LTM fuse(s). If liftgate is not already in the fully closed position, manually close and fully latch the power liftgate. NOTE: Make sure the power liftgate system is turned ON in the message center before performing this step. NOTE: If the power liftgate does not open during this step, refer to the Symptom Chart to diagnose the inoperative power liftgate. Power open the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch. Once the power liftgate is fully open, close the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch.

Flood. Ummm, did you check to see if they affect oncoming drivers?

I have a perpetual problem with my MKX cargo net. I admit this is minor, but it a real source of irritation. It seems to unhook itself from the lower right and left sides whenever you put in or remove groceries. When I put groceries (or anything else of bulk) into the net to keep them from spilling all over the cargo floor, the net changes its shape, getting lower to the floor and allowing the slip hooks to slide off the retainers. Has anyone come up with a simple fix for this?

Well I ran through a few YouTube vids and I'm not so certain that this is really a good way to go. This is the video that made me rethink using Deet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYmbBZntuY8 Reviewed Consumer Reports test on four products: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/headlight-restoration-kits/buying-guide.htm (I have the Sylvania kit, still not ready to commit to sanding plastic headlights yet). So back to asking about the ALR product. Anyone actually use this stuff? (The cleaner and sealer seems to work). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XPoZARi0T0

So I'm reading this, jaw hanging on the keyboard, looking for all the world like a deer in the headlights ..... mosquito spray??? Fellows, that blows me away. No, hadn't run across this on YouTube. Who on earth figured this out? Thanks so much, what a great forum this is. Dennis

My wife's Sebring Convertable headlights are starting to become cloudy. I bought a headlight cleaning kit from a local auto store, and it uses sandpaper to sand off the top layer of the lens. Thoughtt that that was a little radical and watched a few YouTube vids on it. Also did some other research and learned that once you do this, it removes the UV layer from the lens and the lens will start to yellow from UV rays. Kept researching and found a product that removes the cloudy layer (oxidation) with a chemical solution. The product is Pittman ALR. Anyone ever use this? Here's their website: http://www.ibc34.com/ Sounds perfect, but it's a little salty at $30 for 7 cc's. (But, you only use one drop per headlight, or so they say). If it works I'll go this route and sell the kit at a garage sale.

Possibly the lubrication dried out. (My 09 is starting to squeak when I open it, probably will have the dealer lube it at next oil change). There's a couple of videos here in the forum that may help. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14977-moonroof-sunshade-stopped-working/

I've been curious as to what my "fog" lights, on my MKX are really good for. Is white the best color, amber, blue? When is the best time to use them, day driving, night, rail, snow, fog ...? Are those kinky blue headlights really better? I found a website that answers all these questions and more with good logic and backed with evidence as to what is good, bad and ugly. Here's a sampling: Various companies and individuals are selling halogen headlamp bulbs with blue or purplish-blue glass. There are lots of spurious claims made for these bulbs. They're falsely advertised as "Xenon bulbs" or "HID bulbs", the blue glass is claimed to "force the bulb to perform at a higher level", and there are seemingly endless amounts of pseudoscience aimed at enticing buyers who want better performance from their headlamps. In fact, these bulbs reduce headlamp performance while increasing dangerous glare. ............. White light is made up of every color of light mixed together. But the colors are not all present in equal amounts. The output spectrum of filament bulbs, including halogen headlamp bulbs, includes a great deal of red, orange, yellow and green light, but very little blue or violet light. Blue bulbs have colored glass (or a filter coating applied to clear glass) that allows only the blue light through the filter — this is why the bulbs appear blue. Because very little blue light is produced by a halogen bulb in the first place, it is only this very small amount — a tiny fraction of the total amount of light produced by a halogen bulb filament — that ever reaches the road. ............. Compared to uncolored bulbs, Blue headlight bulbs are able to produce more glare with less light because of the difference between the "signal image", which is what an observer sees when looking at an illuminated headlamp, and the "beam pattern", which is the light viewed from behind the headlamp facing forward, as by the driver of a vehicle. ..........and much, much more. And he also discusses what makes a "good" blue headlight. How about converting your halogen's to HID? Read on... So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb, for between $150 and $600. STOP, put away that credit card. Trying to "convert" halogen headlamps to HID is an unsafe thing to do. There are NO legitimate or safe HID bulb retrofits for halogen headlamps. Here's why. He also has an excellent discussion on "fog" lights, when to use fog lights, when not to, where they should be aimed, what color works best, whether white is better or blue or amber, how to make it work to your advantage, etc. How the eye sees green/yellow better that other colors, how to color a bulb or lens to achieve a specific degree of yellow, (what paint to use), etc. There's history, tests and logic and myths debunked on everything automotive lighting. I hope you enjoy reading about the ins and outs of automotive lighting, as much as I did. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/lights.html

I decided to not install it after readig the posts on it. As must as I hate to, I'll probably bite the bullet and pay the dealer to do it.