enigma-2

According to the service manual, it sounds line it could be one of two things (possibly related). For a roof that operates slowly, it could either be (1) binding or foreign material in the guide or idler tracks, or (2) binding or foreign material in the roof opening panel guide tracks. For a roof opening panel that reverses during operation, it is either (1) the mechanism is mistimed, or (2) binding or a foreign material in the guide or tracks. One of these is probably causing both symptoms, probably a little of both. To clean the idler tracks and mechanisms, * Remove the idler track mechanisms. (Refer to Roof Opening Panel Idler Track Mechanism in this section.) * Using denatured alcohol or a non-abrasive mild detergent with warm water and a soft brush, clean the idler mechanism guide feet and pins. Refer to Roof Opening Panel — Exploded View in this section. * Using denatured alcohol or a non-abrasive mild detergent with warm water and a soft cloth, clean the idler tracks of all debris along the length of the track. * Install the idler track mechanisms and the roof opening sliding glass panel. * Start the engine. * Open the roof opening sliding glass panel. * Monitor the amount of time it takes to close the roof opening glass panel to the fully closed position. * Does the roof opening glass panel move to the fully closed position in less than 12 seconds? (yes/no) If you do this, the service manual has the following to say about what types of lubricant to use: "Small amounts of PTFE Lubricant or Silicone Spray Lubricant is permissible to use as a means to reduce friction and improve moving glass panel operation." The procedure to remove the idler tracks for cleaning is as follows: 1. Remove the roof opening panel sliding glass. For additional information, refer to Roof Opening Panel Glass — Front Sliding in this section. (I added below) 2. Carefully slide the idler link forward and out of the front of the track. Roof Opening Panel Glass — Front Sliding Removal and Installation 1 Open the roof opening panel to the VENT position. 2 Detach the top of the concertina blind from the moving glass frame. 3 Reposition the sliding glass panel to any position rearward of VENT position. 4 Remove the 4 roof opening panel glass front screws. To install, tighten to 71 lb-in. 5 Remove the 2 roof opening panel glass rear screws. To install, tighten to 71 lb-in. NOTICE: It is possible for the idler mechanism to move freely once the glass panel is removed. Do not move the idler rearward or it may disengage from the idler track. 6 Carefully remove the roof opening panel glass. 7 To install, reverse the removal procedure. 8 Initialize the roof opening panel motor(s). For additional information, refer to Roof Opening Panel Motor Initialization in this section. Timing Adjustment NOTE: Anytime a roof opening panel glass/shade motor is removed, the cables/mechanisms can experience free-play movement. It is important that the cables do not move. The mechanisms are timed to be parallel with each other. If one or both are moved in either direction, they must be re-timed. Roof Opening Panel — Sliding Glass Panel 1. Remove the roof opening panel sliding glass. For additional information, refer to Roof Opening Panel Glass — Front Sliding in this section. 2. Remove the roof opening panel sliding glass motor. For additional information, refer to Roof Opening Panel Motor — Sliding Front Panel in this section. 3. Manually move the sliding front glass mechanisms rearward until they are flush against the track hard-stops. 4. Reinstall the roof opening panel sliding glass motor. For additional information, refer to Roof Opening Panel Motor — Sliding Front Panel in this section. 5. With the roof opening panel sliding glass still removed, initialize the roof opening panel motor(s). For additional information, refer to Roof Opening Panel Motor Initialization in this section. NOTE: Press the roof opening panel control switch to move the mechanisms rearward to allow installation of the sliding glass panel. NOTE: It will be necessary to carry out the initialization procedure again after the glass panel is installed. 6. Install the roof opening panel sliding glass. For additional information, refer to Roof Opening Panel Glass — Front Sliding in this section.

What kind of problems are you having with your roof panel? Does it fail to open entirely, or does it open or close slowly (takes more than 12 seconds), or does it reverse when opening? Does it stutter step open when operated from the roof opening panel control switch? Does the tilt mechanism operate correctly?

I was under the impression that we could just plug a camera into the back of the HU (ie didn'the need a special adapter). Video feed connected to pins 1 & 10 of the center connector, if I read it right.

A 17.5mm drill bit? Now there's a tool I've never seen.

Seen a kit online. Don't know if the wiring matches your setup. Black to ground, blue to parking lamps, orange to turn signal, red to accessory or key on. These run to TDC module. After module, black to white/yellow ground, orange to yellow LED's (+), gray to white leds.

Good to know. I don't remember what brand I bought, worked well on a horn connection on my old car.

$160 was a good price. Just had the wife's Sebring convertible done today and they charged $240. (Excellent work though, best detailerror in the area).

I had my booster replaced under (extended) warranty this week. Pedal was spongy and I had to pump the pedal before. Now it's firmer and I don't see it loosing vacuum after setting. You may still have a leak in a connection or hose somewhere. Honda is known for a"soft" pedal. Of the Honda's I've owned I always hated the brakes.

Weight plays only a small factor, gas savings is much more related to acceleration and speed. Remember the Mobilegas Economy Run's of the 1960's? (Ok, I may be showing my age), but they would run different cars across country to test how good gas mileage cars (of that era) could get. To get the best milage they would train the drivers to accelerate by putting a raw egg between the accelerater pedal and their shoes. They had to drive without breaking the egg. Result was long, slow accelerations and best possible gas mileage. (They also used other tricks like having a good wax job and smaller drivers. And of course Mobil gasoline :-) Sent from my Galaxy 5.

I'll attach a schematic of the door lock mech. for a 2010 Edge, don't know if they are the same or not (don't have the schematic for the 2013). Before going through all the work of replacing the mechanism, why not try spraying the switch with electrical contact cleaner? Hunter24 measured the resistance across the corroded switch terminals and found that his switch was varying between 3 and 10 ohms. He discovered that the light would go off around 3 ohms. So he tried using electrical contact cleaner and reported that it was still working after several weeks (this was a year ago). He states you only need to remove one screw to access the switch with the spray. (WD40 does not work on the Edge/MKX problem. Makes it worse). (Post #24 in the reference shown below). 2011edgese found you don't have to remove any screws, just aim the spray straw at an exact spot. He uploaded pictures in message #30 and 40. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10869-door-ajar-warning-on-at-all-times/page-2?do=findComment&comment=97238 Door Lock Mech.pdf

110k is doing great. What preventative "repairs" did you do?

110k is great. What "preventative" repairs did you do?

Isn't the original downloaded file still on your harddrive?

Had spongy brake pedal since I bought my 2009 MKX. Finally got around to taking it to the dealer. They checked it and found the brake booster was loosing vacuum internally. Had it replaced yesterday. It was under warranty, just cost me the deductible. Much better braking now. Only thing it needs now is an alignment.

Would it be possible to mask it off and use a spray tint?

If I were you, I would try using a shotgun next time. LOL

Anyone?

DRL's are controlled by setting a bit in the controller of the smart junction box (fuse panel on drivers left near floor). I'm only guessing, but possibly the aftermarket HID kit turned on the DRL circuit for some purpose and disconnecting the kit left it energized. Also in some later model cars (according to my Ford garage mechanic) the feature may be user selectable through the Message Center, although I never asked how this was done. (It was not available on my 09). Personally I like this feature but if you don't, it can be easily turned off at you local Ford garage.

They will first check the balance by spinning the tires. If they find one still out of balance they will either remove the weights and start over or add to the existing weights. Some tires are just hard to balance. I had a set put on once and they never could get them to balance property. Had them take them off and went to a more expensive tire. Most tire outlets will balance at 60 mph and sometimes skip over the lower speeds. The should be able to get the tires to balance smooth at all speeds if their good quality. Which tires are they?

Don't know what is in the convenience pkg. It would all depend on the head unit. Does it have a nav display?

New massive recalls on Ford products. 2015 Edge is affected, as well as 2012-2014 Fiesta, 2013-2014 Fusion & Lincoln MKZ's. The 2015 Edge recall concerns failure of the steering system. Also 2014 Edge for faulty fuel pumps. http://www.nydailynews.com/autos/news/ford-recalls-dent-brand-performance-push-article-1.2205593

I still hate the MKX headrests in my 2009 MKX, currently have them turned around, but it looks a bit hokey. Thinking of bending the posts to assume a straighter angle. Before I do that however, I couldn't help but wonder if the ratcheting-type headrests that are used on the newer Lincoln MKX or Ford Edge would fit? Was wondering if anyone who owned a 2013 MKX/Edge with the ratcheting-type of front headrests would mind throwing a tape measure on them and let me know what the approximate distance is between the posts? If you could eyeball the approximate width of the posts, that would be appreciated as well.

Hi SAMIAM, After seeing the picture you posted, I went to Amazon and bought one just like it. Just got it today and it works great. Thanks for posting this. Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/High-Road-Cargo-Net-Black/dp/B0051C5ZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1430247271&sr=1-1&keywords=High+Road+Cargo+Net+%28Black%29

Even through the WD40 worked for me on my old Mercury Sable, it does not appear to be effective for use on an Edge/MKX. However, 2011edgese wrote that he had had excellent luck at fixing this problem by spraying electric contact cleaner (I was able to buy a can at my local Tru Value hardware) and spraying it into the latch at a specific point. As the alternative is very time consuming and expensive, I would think that this would be the preferred way to go. Here's the discussion, the pictures of where to spray are at messages #39. & 40. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10869-door-ajar-warning-on-at-all-times/page-2?do=findComment&comment=97238

Here are the diagrams for the 09 Edge headlight circuit. Not certain if this is what you were asking for or not. I can get the fog lamps later if that's what you were needing. Headlamp wiring diagram-1.pdfHeadlamp wiring diagram-2.pdfHeadlamp wiring diagram-3.pdfHeadlamp wiring diagram-4.pdfHeadlamp wiring diagram-5.pdf