enigma-2

Perhaps you could get a power seat mechanism from a salvage lot and have the local dealer install it. Better to spend the money where it will pay you back with every mile.

I used to travel to Quebec on business back in the 70-80's. One winter was going to lunch with the plant's GM, roads were pure ice, I was doing about 80 and four guys in a Buick came flying by us like we were standing still. About 5 k up the road there they were, about 15m off the side of the road with three of them "push", "push", push". We continued on, still doing about 80 and here they come. Zing, flew by us like we were standing still. I still laugh about this. Great people in Quebec, friendly and sincere. Loved traveling to the Provence.

I used to, but cars have gotten more complicated. And besides, Ford dealers do oil change with semi-synthetic, 5 qts., filter, rotate tires, lube chassis and mechanical inspection. All for under $30. All this while I sit in a conformable waiting area, drinking Starbucks made to order, popcorn if I want it and watching TV. They finish with a free car wash (Lincoln owner's perk). Knock your socks off.

I think that this is a normal design tolerance found in most any car; from the least expensive to the most expensive. It's probably accountable to being able to squeeze everything into the space available. From a marketing perspective, the layout of the instrument cluster has a greater first impression than a the steering wheel being off by an inch or so. Ever notice that the peddles are not standardized either?

"Switches, non-electrical mechanical" are specifically covered.

I see they exclude "fixed, non-moving body parts". Would that be what they were referring to?

Take them back. I had a set of tires installed & had problems with them. They tried balancing them two more times and finally concluded that they were molded wrong (out of round). Finally had them put on a different brand (better quality), they gave me full credit for the old ones (of course), and new ones worked fine. I agree with macbwt, est. with moving to the Bridgestone's.

Ebay. Full set of aluminum pedals run $26.

Had my 09 MKX AWD PTU pumped and filled with new, two weeks ago at Ford garage. They charged me $60.

My 09 mkx was originally equipped with this setup from the factory. The original purchasers wanted navigation and the dealer swapped in a nav unit (drops the CD/DVD player to a single disk version). Don't see why you just couldn't pick up a nav unit off Ebay and swap it. Does your vehicle have OEM GPS? If it were me, I would stop by the local dealer's parts dept and ask then what would be needed. (Probably have to get the service dept involved in programming anyway.)

My wife is a pain in the wallet. Wonder if I could just lock her in the car? LOL

I've read other people's texts about having leg pain in the Edge. Some said they could find relief by raising the seat all the way up and tilting the back a little. Another said he found it comfortable to use a small pillow in the small of his back. One gentleman had shims under the back of his seat to raise the back higher. But I believe that most have no problems in getting comfortable. I love my 09 MKX seats, my wife doesn't. Complains that she slides around on the leather too much. You tried expanding the lumbar out all the way? I've traveled extensively on business and rented numerous cars. Some I've absolutely hated the seats in (Honda, Toyota, too small for American butts). Don't like Corvettes and Mustangs either. With the Edge seat being fully adjustable (at least I'm assuming it is), you should be able to find a comfortable position. As you have tried every possible adjustment position, perhaps it's the seat itself. If so, try putting some sort of topper on the seat bottom, like a blanket folded to give some height in the rear portion of the seat bottom. Might be just the shape of the seat that's throwing you off. I Googled "automotive seat cushion wedge" and got multiple hit. Apparently it's a common complaint. Perhaps one with memory foam?

Any possibility that it's a (slightly) loose jack in the spare tire well? Had a sound simular to that once in my old car. Drove me nuts, sound travels, sounded like it was coming from under rear seat.

Does voice command to eject work? (I don't know what commands are and are not available on the 11, just thinking out loud).

One other thought after I posted the procedures above, it could be a stuck steering system. (I remember having this happen to me as well). The fix is simple, try turning the steering wheel while turning the key. Hopefully that's all it is and it will turn afterwords. :-)

Ignition Switch—Mechanical The following conditions can cause difficulty in operating the ignition switch and lock cylinder: Damaged or incorrectly cut ignition key Binding ignition lock cylinder Binding ignition switch Binding or damaged steering column lock module Carry out the following test to determine if the ignition key/lock cylinder, ignition switch and the steering column lock module are operating correctly. 1. Inspect the ignition key for any burrs, damage or incorrect cut. Have a new ignition key made as necessary. If the key is OK, continue with Step 2. 2. Remove the ignition lock cylinder. Refer to Section 501-14 . 3. Rotate the ignition lock cylinder through all of the switch positions. ◘ If the lock cylinder operates correctly, install the lock cylinder and continue with Step 4. ◘ If the lock cylinder does not operate correctly, install a new ignition lock cylinder. 4. Remove the ignition switch. Refer to Ignition Switch in this section. 5. Rotate the ignition lock cylinder through all of the switch positions. ◘ If the lock cylinder operates correctly, install a new ignition switch. ◘ If the lock cylinder does not operate correctly, install a new steering column lock module. Refer to Steering Column Lock Module in this section. Ignition Lock Cylinder — Non Functional Removal NOTE: Individual lock cylinders are repaired by discarding the inoperative cylinder and rebuilding a new lock cylinder using the appropriate lock repair package. The lock repair package includes a detailed instruction sheet to build the new lock to match the key cut pattern for the vehicle, thus allowing for single point replacement without needing to replace or reprogram other locks or keys. NOTE: If a new keys are required, the new Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) keys must be programmed. For additional information, refer to Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKT) Key Programming Using Diagnostic Equipment in Section 419-01B . 1. Remove the PATS transceiver. For additional information, refer to Section 419-01B . 2. Drill a 10 mm (0.393 in) hole 9.3 mm (0.366 in) deep, centered in the keyslot. 3. Using a suitable tool (such as a pin punch), press the ignition lock cylinder retention pin until it pushes through the remains of the lock. 4. Remove the ignition lock cylinder. 5. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings from the ignition lock cylinder housing and inspect it for damage. Installation 1. Rotate the ignition switch and the new ignition lock cylinder so the that the d-slot in the ignition lock cylinder lines up with the d-slot in the lock cylinder housing (ignition switch and lock cylinder must be in the ACC position). 2. Insert the ignition lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing until the retention pin engages into the lock cylinder housing. 3. Verify proper installation by rotating the key through all positions and pulling back out on the key to make sure the lock cylinder does not pull out. 4. Install the PATS transceiver. For additional information, refer to Section 419-01B .

There are six elements that involved in the circuit. Wiring, relays, fuses, fan control module, cooling fan motor(s) & cooling fan resistor(s). Electrically, the fans come off fuse #5 - 60 amp (w/o trailer tow pkg) -or- #5 & #6 - 40 amp ea. (with trailer tow pkg) in the battery junction box. For the tow pkg. both fuses are wired into one wire that leads to the fan module. It's a VT-GY insulation. From the fuse(s), the circuit runs to the cooling fan module and then to the fans (one conductor that feeds in parallel with no trailer tow, or two separate conductors with trailer tow pkg.). The cooling fan module also takes an input from the power-train control module. In the power-train emissions manual it talks about determining which codes are set (to determine if the fault is coming from the power-train control module or from somewhere else). Without knowing the codes, it gets very detailed as to how to trace the circuits by pulling the connectors and checking for voltage. Gets more complicated in that some vehicles have the relay wiring reversed on power and that would result in the fans running all the time when the engine is off. With neither fan running I would check the fuse first (fuses if you have trailer tow pkg.) If OK, I would suspect the fan module as failing. The fan control module is part of the entire assembly. (One nice thing is that once you disconnect the wiring harness, the fan assemble is only attached with two bolts. From the manual: 1. Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 . 2. If equipped, detach the 2 block heater wiring clips from the radiator support. 3. Detach the wiring harness retainers and position the harness aside. 4. Position aside the upper radiator hose from the cooling fan motor and shroud. 5. Disconnect the cooling fan motor electrical connector. 6. If equipped, remove the bolt and position aside the oil cooler bracket. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 7. Remove the 2 bolts and the cooling fan motor and shroud. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 8. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

So, didja do it right and leave the price sticker attached to the side window?

How about routing a water-resistant wire under the car, in a best-case, protected location?

I could be wrong but I thought that the way the DRL's work is to switch the FETS in the lighting circuit rapidly and thereby causing the lights to be switched on and off, with a 50% duty cycle for DRL, resulting in less output. The lights are seeing full voltage however.

I would seriously doubt that anything remotely near this will be happening. MFT was based on Microsoft Windows and Sync 3 is based on a version of QNX. Simply put, MFT is dead. They have already spent a huge amount of time trying to fix it and ended up removing flawed features (as a fix). That tells us that it can't be fixed and they have pulled the plug.

If your radio is anything like my 09, the camera connects into the middle connector on the back of the unit. (There is no RCA connector).

I would like to do this on mine. What did you use?

When my 09 turned 90k, I called local dealer and Asst service mgr told me that they "should" be changed at 100k. Later I talked with the service manager and he told me best to do it at 90k as they are titanium plugs and they will continue to fire ok well past they recommend change interval; but as they wear, the gap will widen and the coils will draw more current to fire them. This in turn will cause the coils to overheat and eventually fail.

When my 09 turned 90k, I called local dealer and Asst service mgr told me that they "should" be changed at 100k. Later I talked with the service manager and he told me best to do it at 90k as they are titanium plugs and they will continue to fire ok well past they recommend change interval; but as they wear, the gap will widen and the coils will draw more current to fire them. This in turn will cause the coils to overheat and eventually fail.