enigma-2

One other thought after I posted the procedures above, it could be a stuck steering system. (I remember having this happen to me as well). The fix is simple, try turning the steering wheel while turning the key. Hopefully that's all it is and it will turn afterwords. :-)

Ignition Switch—Mechanical The following conditions can cause difficulty in operating the ignition switch and lock cylinder: Damaged or incorrectly cut ignition key Binding ignition lock cylinder Binding ignition switch Binding or damaged steering column lock module Carry out the following test to determine if the ignition key/lock cylinder, ignition switch and the steering column lock module are operating correctly. 1. Inspect the ignition key for any burrs, damage or incorrect cut. Have a new ignition key made as necessary. If the key is OK, continue with Step 2. 2. Remove the ignition lock cylinder. Refer to Section 501-14 . 3. Rotate the ignition lock cylinder through all of the switch positions. ◘ If the lock cylinder operates correctly, install the lock cylinder and continue with Step 4. ◘ If the lock cylinder does not operate correctly, install a new ignition lock cylinder. 4. Remove the ignition switch. Refer to Ignition Switch in this section. 5. Rotate the ignition lock cylinder through all of the switch positions. ◘ If the lock cylinder operates correctly, install a new ignition switch. ◘ If the lock cylinder does not operate correctly, install a new steering column lock module. Refer to Steering Column Lock Module in this section. Ignition Lock Cylinder — Non Functional Removal NOTE: Individual lock cylinders are repaired by discarding the inoperative cylinder and rebuilding a new lock cylinder using the appropriate lock repair package. The lock repair package includes a detailed instruction sheet to build the new lock to match the key cut pattern for the vehicle, thus allowing for single point replacement without needing to replace or reprogram other locks or keys. NOTE: If a new keys are required, the new Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) keys must be programmed. For additional information, refer to Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKT) Key Programming Using Diagnostic Equipment in Section 419-01B . 1. Remove the PATS transceiver. For additional information, refer to Section 419-01B . 2. Drill a 10 mm (0.393 in) hole 9.3 mm (0.366 in) deep, centered in the keyslot. 3. Using a suitable tool (such as a pin punch), press the ignition lock cylinder retention pin until it pushes through the remains of the lock. 4. Remove the ignition lock cylinder. 5. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings from the ignition lock cylinder housing and inspect it for damage. Installation 1. Rotate the ignition switch and the new ignition lock cylinder so the that the d-slot in the ignition lock cylinder lines up with the d-slot in the lock cylinder housing (ignition switch and lock cylinder must be in the ACC position). 2. Insert the ignition lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing until the retention pin engages into the lock cylinder housing. 3. Verify proper installation by rotating the key through all positions and pulling back out on the key to make sure the lock cylinder does not pull out. 4. Install the PATS transceiver. For additional information, refer to Section 419-01B .

There are six elements that involved in the circuit. Wiring, relays, fuses, fan control module, cooling fan motor(s) & cooling fan resistor(s). Electrically, the fans come off fuse #5 - 60 amp (w/o trailer tow pkg) -or- #5 & #6 - 40 amp ea. (with trailer tow pkg) in the battery junction box. For the tow pkg. both fuses are wired into one wire that leads to the fan module. It's a VT-GY insulation. From the fuse(s), the circuit runs to the cooling fan module and then to the fans (one conductor that feeds in parallel with no trailer tow, or two separate conductors with trailer tow pkg.). The cooling fan module also takes an input from the power-train control module. In the power-train emissions manual it talks about determining which codes are set (to determine if the fault is coming from the power-train control module or from somewhere else). Without knowing the codes, it gets very detailed as to how to trace the circuits by pulling the connectors and checking for voltage. Gets more complicated in that some vehicles have the relay wiring reversed on power and that would result in the fans running all the time when the engine is off. With neither fan running I would check the fuse first (fuses if you have trailer tow pkg.) If OK, I would suspect the fan module as failing. The fan control module is part of the entire assembly. (One nice thing is that once you disconnect the wiring harness, the fan assemble is only attached with two bolts. From the manual: 1. Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 . 2. If equipped, detach the 2 block heater wiring clips from the radiator support. 3. Detach the wiring harness retainers and position the harness aside. 4. Position aside the upper radiator hose from the cooling fan motor and shroud. 5. Disconnect the cooling fan motor electrical connector. 6. If equipped, remove the bolt and position aside the oil cooler bracket. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 7. Remove the 2 bolts and the cooling fan motor and shroud. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 8. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

So, didja do it right and leave the price sticker attached to the side window?

How about routing a water-resistant wire under the car, in a best-case, protected location?

I could be wrong but I thought that the way the DRL's work is to switch the FETS in the lighting circuit rapidly and thereby causing the lights to be switched on and off, with a 50% duty cycle for DRL, resulting in less output. The lights are seeing full voltage however.

I would seriously doubt that anything remotely near this will be happening. MFT was based on Microsoft Windows and Sync 3 is based on a version of QNX. Simply put, MFT is dead. They have already spent a huge amount of time trying to fix it and ended up removing flawed features (as a fix). That tells us that it can't be fixed and they have pulled the plug.

If your radio is anything like my 09, the camera connects into the middle connector on the back of the unit. (There is no RCA connector).

I would like to do this on mine. What did you use?

When my 09 turned 90k, I called local dealer and Asst service mgr told me that they "should" be changed at 100k. Later I talked with the service manager and he told me best to do it at 90k as they are titanium plugs and they will continue to fire ok well past they recommend change interval; but as they wear, the gap will widen and the coils will draw more current to fire them. This in turn will cause the coils to overheat and eventually fail.

When my 09 turned 90k, I called local dealer and Asst service mgr told me that they "should" be changed at 100k. Later I talked with the service manager and he told me best to do it at 90k as they are titanium plugs and they will continue to fire ok well past they recommend change interval; but as they wear, the gap will widen and the coils will draw more current to fire them. This in turn will cause the coils to overheat and eventually fail.

Was looking over older posts and noticed that one of the wheels lost its hub cap (they say "Sport" on them). Might consider picking one up from eBay before taking it back.

I checked on my 09 MKX using the GPS on my cell phone & my speedometer is about 2-3 mph fast. That's probably typical.

So are the cow's hoofs but I'll be darned if I'm going to give up my strawberry jello!

Heh, nope, Indiana, love the Bears though.

I show the following for a 2010 Edge: Horn, VT-GN Ambient air sensor, YE-GN Front impact severity sensor, Left hand: VT-GN & YE-GY Right hand: WH-BU (fcs feed pas) + GN-BU (fcs return pas)

Oem tires?

Eh, it's "William Perry". (Older generation joke).

2015 Edge service manual on DVD sells for $50 on Ebay. Includes wiring diagrams and pollution control systems.

Wonder if the infamous door switch could be in early stages of failing? If switch failed to show door open, would it be possible that the radio circuit would continue to think that all doors still closed, and continue to play? (Radio went off after opening and closing the door). Would be unrelated of course, but seems possible.

Sorry for the partial response, worked late last night. Was reading on another forum where anot her person had a simular problem. His turned out to be the rear differential gears had shredded and burnt the grease. Said when the dealer opened the cover the entire garage filled with smell of propane. Another wrote that oil leaking from power steering blew on to exhaust manifold causing smell like propane. Both seem related to grease,oil getting too hot. Can't see the relationship to the radio staying on however.

On my mkx, it's normal for the radio to stay on after the ignition has been turned off and the key removed. It will stay on for about 15 minutes or until a door is opened. As yours stayed on after the door was opened indicates a fault of the accessory delay system. To troubleshoot the accessory protocol module, you would need a computer. This module is located in the center console.

If kit was a new vehicle when rented, they will usually go over the car with a fine toothed comb. Even so, the company who wrote the contract is the one who has to sign off on the vehicle, as they are the onest who acruelly owns the car. They can always come back on the leasee for anything they find on their (separate) inspection (which is why the dealer will look so closely. Larry ( my friend who leased his Explorer), said they refused to accept any touch up and required the dings to be done by their body shop (told him he could have used any body shop prior to return, but at that point his lease was up, no choice). He also had to pay for one new wheel. So the next car he leased and parked way out in the parking lot. Every time we went to take his car, he would do a Walk-around and check everything. Really paranoid. Never told me what it cost on returning the Explorer, but it was several hundred. (Which is why you need to have the dealer take a look and see if it would be cheaper to have the dings fixed at a less expensive shop.) Don't know about the wheels, if not clear, could be 6" total for all wheels. Dings are cheap, four new wheels from a dealer would be a killer. I would be interested in knowing what you find out.

Do not pry on the outer register trim bezel. The clips on the outer register trim bezel break if pried on to remove the register. Working through the register vein openings, insert a suitable hook shaped pick behind each of the 4 register clips while gently pulling the register rearward with the hook to disengage the clip. Remove the driver or passenger side instrument panel register. (Note that this procedure is for the Edge. The MKX is much more complicated).

If you read the reviews on Amazon, they are overwhelming negative. A common complaint is the crap coats the electrical connectors in the resivoir and leaves the low fluid light on permanently. Chrysler has a TSB on repairing the electronic sensor but makes it clear the owner is responsible for the costs. Another complaint is under certain curcumstances the fluid coats the windshield with a white film making it impossible to see clearly. This stuff is complete crap.