enigma-2

"Been running LEDs in the headlights for quite some time now. No problems so far." Nice big heatsink at the base keeping them cool. Did you leave the headlamp assembly cover off to disappate the heat? Been curious, I've read that going to LED's in a refelector designed for Halagen bulbs will result in a lot of glare for teh on-coming cars. Do you get people calling for low beams very often?

Did you check the side bumpers for wear and alignment? The latch to see if it was latching closed tightly enough? If it still seems to be coming from the interior of the liftgate, you will need to pull the cover. Here's the procedure from the service manual: Remove the liftgate lower trim panel. 1. Remove the 4 liftgate lower trim panel screws. 2. Pull outward on the liftgate lower trim panel to release the liftgate lower trim panel retainers. 3. Remove the liftgate upper trim panel. 4. To install, reverse the removal procedure. NOTE: The back of the liftgate trim panel is shown indicating the location of the liftgate trim panel retainers.

Just looked on tirerack.Com. looks like cheapest is $117 ea. for 18/8.

Canada uses the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (which are simular to the US's Federal Motor vehicle safety standards). The primary differences are: CMVSS 108 requires daytime running lamps on all vehicles made since 1 January 1990, while FMVSS 108 permits but does not require DRLs CMVSS 108, through an adjunct called CMVSS 108.1, permits European headlamps, while FMVSS 108 prohibits them. Both standards differ markedly from the UN (formerly "European") standards used in most other countries worldwide, not only in technical provisions, terminology, and requirements, but in format: each European standard deals with only one type of lighting device, while the single U.S. and Canadian standards regulate all lighting and reflective devices. LED headlights are permitted, however it's difficult and expensive to convert to LEDS from halogen which requires new housings with heat sinks, cooling fans, etc. Why not jump over LEDS and go straight to Lasers like the BMW i8?

Maybe this is the real problem & solution. http://www.streetdirectory.com/travel_guide/214591/cars/moisture_in_your_tail_lights___its_no_big_deal.html

What kind of sound is it? Like a wiper motor with loose mounting, or like a poorly connected wiper arm, or more like the lock mechanism not holding the hatch closed tightly enough due to worn rubber bushings?

There are Ford dealers that sell at discount on ebay. You will pay more than the importers, but you will know your getting OEM. That's the route I used to buy 2 extra keys. Had them cut at local Ford parts office, he said he would not cut if they were not OEM. (They came in original OEM packaging). He also said he could not cut the new laser-cut keys. There is only one locksmith in the area who has the machine (supposedly costs thousands), and they have to send out the keys. So if you have a new Edge which has the multiple sided laser cut keys, expect to spend a hundred bucks or more, just to get it cut!

These the ones that come in different colors? Care to guess how fast you would get pulled over if you used anything but white? Talk about illegal. Remember that the purpose of having fog lamps is to use in fog or heavy rain/snow, when it's nearly impossible to see the road. There used to illuminate just the edges of the road so you can see where the edge/centerline of the road is, when traveling at very low speeds, under 30 mph. Putting a bright light here would defeat the purpose.

Pulled

One touch open and the window will open just past 1/2 way (point of least wind noise). Press again and it will continue to open full. One touch close (not hold) and it will close 5/6 way. You then must hold bottom to close remaining way as safety feature (motor and gear train strong enough to cause injury to a small hand if left in window frame). If you must hold bottom to open or close, try reset procedure for window to relearn limits. Make absolutely certain all tracks are clear. Service manual allows use of spray silicon to lube rails.

If it were me, I would also ask to have ALL fluid levels checked, including to differentials and transaxle.

Can a weak battery cause this? Old old is your battery?

Or a corroded electrical connection. The signal gets though at times and not at others. I was a Marine, airwing, helos. in Vietnam we had a CH46 we nicknamed the hanger queen. Was down for weeks. Tried to find the problems, replaced every black box in the circuit. Would get engine start sometimes and not others. Unrelieable. Finally called in the Boeing tech rep. Took him only two hours, was a corroded pin on the connection to one of the generators. Cleaned it with a bottle of Coke and it functioned perfectly afterwards. We (avionics shop) should have fold it, but couldn't see the trees for the forrest.

Just a heads up, if you put them on your Ford or Lincoln charge card, you will get a $140 rebate back from Ford. (If you don't have one, you can apply right at service dest). Also, charge a certain amount (think it's a hundred) in goods and services, and get a $20 rebate. Rebate comes in the form of a debit card & you have to use it up within 1 year. I should also mention that Ford dealers will match any outside retail source (they matched TireRack for us). Only catch is it has to be same brand of tire they sell. We bought Pirelli Cinturato's for the TireRack price (more than 200 less than their quoted price) plus the 140 rebate. Ford garage can be competitive if you bargin.

Agree. Looks gaudy.

Is it possible that the interior of the lamp assembly was holding warm, moist air and when you hit the exterior lens with the cold water from the hose, caused the water vapor to condense on the interior (back) surface of the lens? (Assuming that the assembly was sufficiently sealed to prevent the moisture, once inside,from escaping). Had the car been sited in a warm, humid location for any length of time?

Just thinking out loud, inasmuch as the dealer is unable to duplicate the problem, wonder if it would be possible to plug in a code reader and record what actually happens when this fault occurs. Perhaps a reader plugged into the car's socket and connected to a tablet (or whatnot). Would anything like this be possible?

Under Tennessee Lemon Law, it applies to any car that can't be repaired after 3 tries by dealer or manufacturer, or, is unable to be driven for 30 says or more; whole under warranty. They feel that they made the proper repairs and you (at this time) have evidence to dispute that. If is indeed fixed, you now have a great car.

I doubt that they actually "layered" the rubber. I have friend that also had Michelins and had the exact same thing happen to him, perfect for several thousand miles then all at once getting super noisy.

Same situation. Weathertech feels heavier and have turned up sides which would contain liquids better. Either will protect imo. Christmas is coming, decided to drop some hints and let them decide.

I don't remember anymore, was the most popular style back then (late 90's). Selling point was they used sectional molds (supposedly so the tires were easier to balance). What I was told (after the fact) was tires were indeed molded with different types of rubber, one that gave very smooth and quiet performance, but wore down quickly (think it was 20k, but in all honesty could have been 10k, don't remember anymore, but remember being disgusted after spending so much and having loud, rough tires in so short a time), and this overlaid a harder rubber that gave the long milage. Was told this by mechanic at Sams Club and also local tire store (Monteith Tire). I remember when this occurred, was driving on freeway, tires were quiet and it seemed to happen all at once, started to get noisy. More I drove, louder it got. Remember thinking it was a bearing going out. Front tires went first, rear maybe 1000 or 2000 later. Swore I would never buy Michelins again.

On my 09 MKX, the adaptive headlamp turn left and right as you turn the steering wheel. You can see it work as you go around a curve and the light will turn into the turn before the car centerline to allow you to see the curved roadway. You can tell if you have adaptive headlights when you first turn the car on. The headlights will swing full over to the left and then to the right to test its operation (self test). Freaked me out when I first bought the car and didn't know what was happening. In the 2015 Edge, the're different, the site explains it better: http://www.theverge.com/2015/7/19/9000437/ford-spotlight-adaptive-headlights-announced

Can't tell for certain on my 09, but it looks sealed. Probably could cut it open if you took you time. Looks like they're running just under $300 on ebay.

I believe that two good keys must be in the car to program. https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/locks-and-security/how-to-program-your-intelligent-access-key.html

I had a set of Michelin's years ago that had soft, rubbery tread. Ran smooth and quiet, for the first 20k. Then the "soft" rubber wore through to the hard rubber underneath. Ride became hard and noisy. Lot of road noise. I took them back to Sam's where I bought them, and they told me that it was normal as the hard rubber was needed to extend the milage to its rated 40k (or whatever it was). Always been leary about tires with soft rubber ever since.