enigma-2

Could always install an OEM black bumper still plate protector.

How do you notice it? In the steering wheel like a wheel weight? Or does it feel like the engine is shimming side-to-side when accelerating from 35 to 50 like a the inner cv joints?

On a non-dual system, the blend door should affect both sides equally. As you state it's working properly, there is only one other thing that I can think of as the cause: the heater core is blocked on the drivers side. (Allows full airflow through the core, but no heat to pick up). As a test, consider operating the air conditioner and test whether both sides are equally cold. If they are, it's the heater core. If not, it can only be the fuggey babble. (OK, there is no such thing, I'm out of ideas).

Ebay, $20 ea. Color code is CB (don't know if this is what your looking for or not, looks like camel) Left hand: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-LH-DRIVERS-REAR-60-SEAT-INBOARD-BRACKET-COVER-EDGE-MKX-7A1Z-7863386-CB-/331711863259?hash=item4d3b9159db:g:rbUAAOSwkZhWTUfF&vxp=mtr#ht_206wt_906 Right Hand: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-OEM-RH-RIGHT-PASSENGER-SIDE-REAR-SEAT-INBOARD-BRACKET-COVER-EDGE-MKX-/331711864905?hash=item4d3b916049:g:5gQAAOSw4UtWTUi1&vxp=mtr#ht_206wt_906

From what I've read, it's either the HVAC control, wiring to actuator, the actuator itself (most common), the linkage, or the blend door. As you have eliminated the actuator, my guess is it's internal (probably a failed door, dealer may have to pull the console).

Don't mean to be unsympathetic to your problem, but it does seem to be a non-issue. Their use is duvious at best, and they seem to be working as designed. I doubt the locals could program around the distance setting as it's probably written into the software. Like I wrote in a previous message, I used it last summer garage saling in unfamiliar subdivisions. Not much use otherwise.

$25.26/gal on Amazon (includes shipping). Listed as Motorcraft Gold Pre-Diluted VC-7DIL-B coolant. Makes sense if your loosing coolant, might be better to use concentrate if making up for evaporation loss. (Water evaporates, leaves the glycol behind).

Depends on the type of belt. If it's a type of V-belt where you apply tension manually, it usually requires retensioning after 30 days or so. All belts stretch after being put into service. If it's a serpentine, the spring tensioner will adjust for any stretch automatically. Don't see why a belt would be squealing after being, installed unless the tensioner is not applying enough pressure; or some other part is applying too much load (bad bearing, etc). In any case, the dealer needs to take a look at it and make it right.

Ford just issued a recall on gas tanks for 2009 & 2010 Edge's and MKX's. You should be able to get a rebate on the one you had replaced back in January 2014. See the message posted in the recall forum for details.

Yea, Chaplin is another good example. I just finished a Great Courses series of lectures on "A History of Hitler's Empire", probably why I latched on to his persona.

Belts need to be retorted after 30 days do to streach. Don't let off the existing tension when retensioning.

Personal opinion, I like the second, with the top trim extended past the grill. The shorter version make me think of a Hitler mustache. Thinking out loud, why does it have to be black? Wonder what it would look like in cherry red, metallic blue or classy metallic maroon? My 09 MKX would only work in chrome, but the Edge has possibilities, especially with a white paint body.

This is a new recall, affecting just the 09-10 Edge & MKX vehicles. Notifications start on Dec. 14th.Repair (if needed) will be R & R or treat tank with a corrosion protective sealer. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?prodType=V&searchType=PROD&targetCategory=A&searchCriteria.model=MKX&stats=512802%2C1%2C0%2C10%2C5%2CMKX&makeStats=&jsonBaseURL=%2Fdownloads%2Ffolders%2F&searchCriteria.model_yr=2009&searchCriteria.make=LINCOLN&searchCriteria.prod_ids=512802 If I remember, I'll call dealer on Monday and see what they say about it. (I did crawl under the car and check around the tank as best I could see. Didn't see anything, but rust could be hidden between tank and supports).

Had this happen to me with my 09 MKX in reverse. I was able to trace it to a wet surface (just after a rain).

Dissimilar metals?

Possibly mothballs. With the newer type of mothballs, made from parsdichlorobenzene, the clorine in it will create hydrochlorice acid when combusted. Don't know if it can convert chemical with the alcohol in gasolibe to acid, but might be possible. (The old type of mothballs was safe in gas engines, and was sometimes used to boost octane.) As fast as the tank is concerned, it's only a matter of time, I agree, change the tank. Impossible to tell how badly it etched the steel, especially the connections with welded joints. Best buy a locking gas cap. Punks may wait for you to repair the car only to do it to you again as their firm of fun.

Semper Fi to all who served. Freedom is not negotiable. OO-RAH.

Mine has a dark (or dimmed) area as well, probably a function of the shape of the projectors and unevenness of the light source. I suspect that if we could get a uniform light source (filaments and LEDS have uneven illumination points) this dark area would vanish.

Noise start before or after the repair?

Looking through TireRack's ratings for the Bridgestone's All Season Dueler's, they are rated at 7.2 on ice. Their winter tire is rated at 9.1. Huge difference. (Note that the winter tires are noisier do to their design.)If you expect to do a lot of driving on snow and ice, they may well be worth the investment. Currently TireRack has the Bridgestone's on sale at $150 tire (would need to add cost of rims, pressure sensors, mounting and balancing, so you would still be looking at over a grand), plus storage and r&r each spring/fall. Are they safer, yes, no question? Are they worth the added cost and trouble, only you can decide.

My 09 MKX brakes squeek when backing slowly out of the garage in morning if the car has sat overnight. It's normal, the brakes wear on the leading edge, traveling in the forward direction 99.9999% of the time. This allows crud, dust, etc) to build up on the trailing edge. When backing up the crud is the cause of the sound. If yor getting it going forward after backing, my guess is, the dust, rust, etc. has moved to the front leading edge when backing and will stop as soon as it's burned off. Easy way to eliminate it is to do an aggressive stop while backing up, essentially burning it off. Should be good for a few days until it builds up again. Just for fun, when my wife is with me (going to the store or whatever), I'll back out of the garage reallllly slow and squeek all the way down the driveway. Drives her nut, like fingernails on a blackboard. Heh, heh, heh.

Does the sound vary with speed? FWD or AWD? Does the click or pop occur for only a few seconds (just when acceleration starts) or does it continue for a period of time? Is it poss that this is a body panel making a clicking sound as the center of gravity changes, or more related to drive train?

Running Bridgestone's Dueler's, about 50% worn. Never forget your Edge is a heavy vehicle and will take much longer to stop. My 09 MKX did only fair last winter, the anti-lock breaks were a Godsend. On packed snow or ice, I drove very slow, much more carefully than when I drove my wife's car. On snow, I had no real problems, probably do to having a AWD. Can't beat snow tires, (rubber stays flexible in cold bettet, more aggressive tread, etc.), the roads are cleared in a few hours, so most of the time I'm driving on a cleared road surface (or nearly clear), so I really didn't feel I needed snow tires.

Had the same problem, small areas of road rash. I masked off the area and sprayed the scrape with spray chrome. (Forget the brand, bought at lowes). Not a perfect fix, but helped a little.

Wow, 5,000 miles a month. You do some serious driving!