enigma-2

The cushion is higher in the back which raises the back side, lower in the front. (Changes the angle of how you set). A lot of short people wrote about how it helped them drive better. Thought it might be worth a look. Lower the seat all the way down and raise up the back side, might be the way to go.

Believe they have unlocked over 60 channels between now and Tuesday the 8th.. Enjoy if you don't currently subscribe. Click here for channel lineup: http://www.siriusxm.com/channellineup/

My last car started "clicking" when it got older. Finally able to track it down to rust causing a couple of spot welds to break. Popping was metal panels flexing.

Fairly common complaint for shorter people. My wife whines that my last car had more comfortable seats (she's 5'-3"). It had fabric seats, the MKX has leather which you slide around on more. And the seats are just a little too long in front, resulting in crowing the backs of her knees (the Merc Sable had shorter seat bottoms). Anyway, why not look into a good quality seat cushion, one higher in back than in front. Here's a good example, rated 5 (out of 5) stars on Amazon (77 ratings), one reported she was 5' and worked perfectly, one reports she had back problems, etc. Might be exactly what she needs. http://www.amazon.com/Cushion-Support-Anti-Flatten-Clever-Breathable/dp/B00Q5HXQ9O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1441227795&sr=8-5&keywords=automotive+cushion

LOL. I found it informative thar 22's (in this case) give worse fuel economy, slower acceleration and reduced braking (vs the 17's he uses for winter tires.) Personally I completely agree with you, I wouldn't want to give up my 20's either. They do look great. Nice to understand all of the facts surrounding larger tires however.

Shade attached to rear headrests and sides, folded flush to back seat (out of the way). It's a little hard to make out, but if you look carefully you can see both cargo nets I use for groceries. By using two nets, we are able to get all of the groceries sacks in one of the other of the nets, keeping them from falling over. (Can remove both in a few seconds if needed). Shade extended out into security position Looking in from back door across back seat (into rear cargo area)

Shade attached to rear headrests and sides, folded flush to back seat (out of the way). It's a little hard to make out, but if you look carefully you can see both cargo nets we use for groceries. By using two nets, we are able to get all of the groceries sacks in one of the other of the nets, keeping them from falling over. (Can remove both in a few seconds if needed). Shade extended out into security position Looking in from back door across back seat (into rear cargo area)

Hey brandonain82, what did you think of the video. Did it poop in your pudding or are you still considering going with the 24's?

If the (good) fuse was in the fuse holder, I would expect to see 12v on both sides. If you measured with the fuse out, yes, I would expect to see 12 volts on the power side & 0 volts on the load side. If you measured with the fuse in and getting 12v on one side and 6v on the other, you have a fairly large voltage drop across the fuse. (Try a different fuse). If you got these readings with the fuse out, have no idea where the 6v feedback is coming from. Look over the wiring diagrams and see if you have lights on the other instruments and switches. If you don't, it can be isolated to a power supply problem (blown fuse, short, defective smart J-box or dimmer switch failure, etc). {To test, you could pull fuse (isolate circuit) and jumper a wire from another known good supply to the load side of where the fuse connected and see it the lights work. If they do, it isolates it to the smart junction box.} If you are only getting lighting failures on certain switches, etc. then the power is (probably) good and it's a question of where the common point of the supply is failing. (I suspected connection point S209 as the common point - see schematics). Because you added the puddle lights, they run directly from the smart J-box (fuse box) and no where else (parallel to the rest of the lights). Therefore I suspect the smart junction box (but only of all instrument the lighting is out).

That helps a little. The puddle lights are also fed from the same fuse. As the furse was bad but now good and you still are having problems, I'm beginning to suspect the smart junction box as the culprit. (Problem is, not everything fed from fuse #10 was reported as being non-working). I'll attach copies of the wiring diagrams. Perhaps that will help. Puddle lighting.pdf Interior lighting(1).pdf Interior lighting(2).pdf

When you open the liftgate manually, does the liftgate open itself automatically after you lift it say 1/3 of the way? If not, I might suspect that the lift cylindars need replacing.

OEM. In all honesty I'm not really disappointed in it. It disappears when I don't need it and works well (enough) when I need it.I did pick up an OEM retractable shade at a garage sale for free and thought about adapting it to my mkx. Problem is it's harder to store (and the obvious problems of modifying it ). But the vinyl shade works fine for me.

In the current issue of the Ford Newsletter, they link to their website (My Ford Magazine) & have have a new video on driving in extreme heat. http://www.myfordmag.com/service/heat-wave-car-tips?utm_source=MFPR14&utm_campaign=503&cks=16835152950&emailid=15q3_ford_xoxx_aug_nl&srccode=500055-001 (You can also view videos on driving in: dust, lightning, hail, tornados, rain & other stuff). Nothing earth-shattering, but a good reminders.

Bought a cargo security shade for my MKX off of eBay. It fastens with 3 elastic loops that pull over the rear seat's headrests, 2 "s"shaped fasteners that wiggle between the sidewall trim & rear-most windows and 2 stretch loops to hook onto the rear-most set of connection points used for the cargo net. Difficulties of figuring out how use were minor, I have a child seat behind the passenger's seat and use the strap that runs overs the headrest. Also still use the cargo net (actually use 2 nets, one at rear and one further up). Security shade works fine with both accessories still in place. As for its utility, it works exactly as advertised; completely concealing the cargo area. I intend (for now) to leave it attached, but folded down behind the rear seats. When needed (wife likes to put her purse in cargo area when we shop), just pull it into place and hook the two rear-most fasteners to net connectors (5 second operation, out of way otherwise). Paid $35 used but like new condition.

Seen where they're going for a little over $40 on ebay.

Had a flat three weeks ago. Took it Sam's Club (have card, free repairs even though didn't buy tires there) and they told me if they couldn't repair properly, I would have to replace with new, same tire. Reason was the tread on AWD must match exactly. They did fix ok, and I followed up at Ford dealer and tire shop where tires purchased. Both agreed all four tire tread patterns must match on all 4 tires on AWD.

Believe the fans will run continously if system is set to max ac. Let us know what you find.

Here is an excellent video on exactly how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dweLr4LTh4

Don't the fans normally run after you shut off the car? Thought that was normal. Is the temp in normal level when idling? This is the only time the fans should be operating (at highway speeds, there's enough air flowing through the radiator to keep the engine cool).

Ebay, OEM - $125 + $16.29 s/h. Fits a 2010 (don't know if it also would fit your 08). You could write and ask, they should know. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-LINCOLN-MKX-OEM-THX-SUBWOOFER-9A1T-19A067-AA-460909-/151740033119?hash=item235469285f&vxp=mtr#ht_2717wt_986

All instrument lighting is powered by the F10 fuse (15 a) in the smart junction box (near drivers feet). Assuming the fuse is good, (as most other instrument lightng "is" working), I would try eliminate where the failure is occurring (localized or global). I would recommend the following troubleshooting procedure (note that this is not in the service manual, I'm making it up as I go along :-) As I see it, the simplest test is to pull the headlight switch and test terminal #5 for voltage when headlamps are on (terminal #5 is where the feed for the headlamp switch instrument lighting is powered from). GLOBAL failure. If voltage is NOT present on terminal #5, follow the violet with gray stripe wire back to the S209 connector - and that would be the only possible common denominator common to the failures you described (assuming that the other lamp switches, such as HVAC, tailgate, etc. ARE operating). Connector S209 is in the main harness tucked up inside the instrument panel. All of the various instrument lamps are fed from this point. Normally, it would be unusual for a connection to fail, however in a hot, humid region, connector S209 could become corroded on just a few terminals and cause these problems. LOCALIZED failures. If voltage IS present, power is getting into the switch (and probably everywhere else) and you can assume that the headlamp switch LED is defective and probably all of the other failures are also localized (and unrelated). Power to terminal #5 of the headlight switch indicates the problem in the LED in the switch and the entire switch would need replacing. (Power for the fog lamp indicator comes in on terminal #7 on the headlight switch, passes through the fog light switch and out on terminal #6 of the switch. Totally separate, unrelated circuit). For the floor shifter, pull the cover and verify the the bulb is good. According to the service manual, Ford uses an incandescent bulb for this function, and it's possible that it has burned out. (All of the others use LEDs.) The steering wheel switches are all tied together. They are also fed from at connector S209 in the main harness and come up the column through the clockspring. Most likely the failure is in the clockspring behind the steering wheel, but that's only a guess. All of the wires feeding power to the instrument lighting in the various switches are colored violet with gray stripe. Good luck, Dennis

My 09 MKX has a two-tone interior, camel over charcoal with ebony wood. Is this what you're thinking of?

Check this video out before you splurge on the 24's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEP2Q1cu7ao

FYI, here's an excellent video on YouTube showing how to clean the evaporator housing using Lubegard's Kool-It. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi22mdXj3wM

First I would check the fuses. Check F18 (20 a) in the battery jubction box (under the hood). Check F17 (20 a) and F41 (15 a) in the smart junction box (near drivers feet). If the fuses are good, the common link of shade not working and switches reversed is the "Roof Opening Panel Motor Assembly". It's possible that the motor assy. did not re-initialize properly when the battery was connected. Try a Roof Opening Panel Motor re-Initialization sequence. 1. Start the engine. 2. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sliding glass panel is in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. 3. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sunshade panels are in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. 4. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch (for at least 10 seconds). * For a new drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop, stall and then move backward a few millimeters and then forward. * For an existing drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop and stall. * The sunshade panels will move toward their front hard-stops, stall, move back a few millimeters, then forward. * After the sunshade panels have finished moving backward and forward, release the roof opening panel control switch. 5. NOTE: The roof opening panel control switch must be held during the entire initialization process or the sequence will be aborted and the roof will remain in a de-initialized state. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch. * The sliding glass panel and sunshades will fully open together. Then, the sliding glass panel will close first and then the sunshades will return to the fully CLOSED position. When the sunshades have stopped moving, release the roof opening panel control switch. 6. Initialization is now complete. Verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch vent (glass) and one-touch open for the shades. * If roof opening panel does not operate correctly, repeat Steps 2 through 5.