enigma-2

You know, that reality looks great. Rich looking.

Don't have this problem, but good to know. What did you use to clean the contacts and what's the name of the grease you used? Great writeup btw, thanks for posting this.

Lucky you. All I got was a VW Beetle with a wife and two young'ns, no job to go back to (went under) and a recession (no one was hiring). Sweet ride, but honestly I really don't care for Corvettes. Seems like your always filling up the tank and on regular roads, it's like your riding inside a basketball. (Hard suspension). But they will definitely put you back in the seat! (If you can afford the gas). Wasn't my first, but a senior in high school (64-65), I bought a 62 Tbird convert. Loved that car, real chick magnetic (not that I needed it mind you - cough, cough). {How did that song go "Those were the days, my friend...."}. Semper Fi

Eh, .... 90? Where do you live, Wyoming, Texas, Boston?

I think there's a joke about being just married buried somewhere in there .....

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One additional thought, is that a fog light atually diminishs your highway vision. The reason is that, when you are running just headlights, the light is scattered down the road (diminishing law of squares), and you iris need to open wider to "see" better. When you turn on your fog lamps, they throw a LOT of light close to the car. The brighter light will close your iris to compensate and this reduces your distance vision. Under very poor driving conditions (fog, rain, snow) you are driving very slow and your main objective is to stay "on the road". The ONLY purpose for fog lights is to illuminate the center line and edge lines on the road. Turning them on at any other time only hinders your ability to see further.

Seconded.

Another option comes to mind. You have gunk in the resivoir itself. Settles to the bottom creating a partial blockage. Blowing air backwards displaces the gunk, which just resettle to the bottom afterwards.

http://m.autoanything.com/mirrors/Ford/111A50630A50634A0A6A0A1.aspx

http://m.autoanything.com/mirrors/Ford/111A50630A50634A0A6A0A1.aspx

Glad to hear it. I'd be questioning your dealer's service department.

Additional thoughts, try putting the radio into the diagnostics mode (press & hold button #3, these press button #6). The speaker test will start, before it finishes, exit by using the screen and run diagnostics. See if there any codes present. (I imagine this is what your dealer did, but just in case ... ).

About the only thing I can think of is to check fuse #13. It's 5 amp, forth from the bottom on the left side. If you don't have a spare handy, try pulling the 5 amp #45 for the wipers just to test.

As for the false reading, yes, it's quite possible for an officer to accidentally get a reading much higher than the car was traveling. The way this works is, if the officer pulled the trigger rather than squeezed it, it's possible the sweep across two cars during the same pull. This more likely to occur at long distances of a half mile or more and if he didn't aim carefully and properly lead the car he was checking. A good officer when checking a car at distance should try "hitting" to target more than once. Assume two cars are traveling at the posted speed limit, 45 mph. The gun reads the more distant car, then continues to sweep to the closer car. Even though both were traveling at the posted speed limit, the gun reads that the closer car traveled it's actual distance plus the distance separating the two cars; say 85 mph.

There are two latching positions for the hood. If the hood is held closed just by the safety latch, it will indeed move up and down by a couple of inches. Open the hood and let it slam closed from about the one foot open position. Then test the hood being fully closed by pulling up on the lip. It should no longer move at all. If it's still loose (but safety latched), the catch mechanism needs to be looked at.

One way to verify, if it's tires the noise should change depending on the road surface (asphalt vs concrete). Doubt it would change if it's a bearing.

How long did it take to install and how difficult was it?

At 30 mph the battery weighs 600 lbs. (Approx 30 g's if it stops in one foot).

I can vouch for what you said. Had new brakes put on a local Ford dealer (Chrysler Sebring convertible, but local Dodge Chrysler dealer is incomplete), and used on-line coupon. Stop on a dime but squeek, squeek, squeek. Bitch, bitch, bitch for two months. Went to NAPA and bought the best pads they sell. Had same Ford dealer put them on and perfect. Not a peek out her. Brakes are quiet as well.

Okay. I've got it. Pull off the wheel, slap masking tape and newspaper all around to protect and Krylon the existing calipers a fire engine red. Five bucks. Tadaaaaaa. (And for my next trick, watch me pull a hat out of a rabbit).

In an accident, you figure the momentum causes a part to weigh 8x it's normal weight. Say a battery weighs 40 lbs. In an accident it now weighs over 300 lbs. Why screw around with the possibly of having a battery come loose and short out, supplying hundreds of amperes across a short? All for the price of a simple nut that costs under $9? Ebay item number: 281886479070 You can get a whole new battery tray for $45.

Not quite. At the end of the lease the leasing agency will require the car to be in original condition, less "normal" wear & tear. This could end up soaking you a few hundred more in minor bodywork, glass replacement or other repairs. Usually the dealer will inspect the car and appraise, but the leasee will usually also look at the car when they get it and do their own appraisal. You could hit twice as the leasee (the actual owner) has the final say.

Pifffff! I'm holding out for a new flying DeLorean as my next car. After all, this IS 2015 right?

The risk of Rube Goldberging a battery and possibly failing causing short and fire is just not worth it. A failure in even a small impact (not necessarily a crash) is dangerous. Not worth the risk of shorting and fire imo.