enigma-2

Was driving home from a day shopping, and thought I'd watch CNN and how the voting was going. Flipped on CNN and as soon as the cell phone picked up CNN (linked to my cable supplier) the bluetooth linked with the head unit and the audio went silent on the phone. (Had live video, no sound.) Apparently my audio is being channeled to bluetooth. To pickup audio, I used the CNN feed on Sirius. But I would like to have the feed from the cell phone as there's a 30 second delay between the cable video feed and Sirius. How do I get the audio feed from my cell (gen 1).

Actually it actually gets better. After 65 there's Medicare and you can get a complete overhall if you need one. Sorry to hear about the catarac. I hope you can get insurance to cover. Now days, the surgery is simple, quick and relatively trouble free. All of us "middle age" guys all have cararac's. Price we pay for getting so smart. lol

Wonder how it will affect gas mileage?

One suggestion I could offer is to make certain that there is no other wifi devices nearby. Your car may have paired with a wireless printer, speakers or router and is attempting to connect with that device. Delete everything the car is paired with (including your spouse-s phone), make certain there are no other wifi devices in the area and try again. I would also look to see if your phone recently updated. New system updates can either help or hurt bluetooth phones. Try pulling the battery on your cell for a minute and try again. Try pulling the fuses on your radio and try again. Here's a good place to start: http://www.smartmobilephonesolutions.com/content/how-to-fix-bluetooth-android-cell-phone

Darn must have missed the video. (lol) What's the C-tec?

You are correct, thanks for correcting me. Found the information here: http://www.guysoflidar.com/usa-laser-jammer-laws.html I had talked to a friend who's a cop, he told me that, if, after he stopped someone for speeding and they had a laser jammer installed, he could charge them with attempting to break the law by speeding by evading. (Something along those lines). Not just here in Indiana, but any state. He also said same laws could be used with radar detectors, if it could be proven that the intent was to speed and evade the police. (Lasers have only one purpose, to evade. His words, not mine). In any case, I also feel that they are either ineffective or unpractical. If you have the best one instalked, and the beam hits a part of the car which is not being monitored (windshield, side,rear), your screwed. Radar detectors work, I run a Passport Max2, works great, displays where other detectors are getting hit on the map so you are tipped off before ever entering the area. I believe you could add Nebraska to your list.

Hey thanks. Interesting that gels loose their power below 32°. Really looks like it comes down to costs vs. longevity return.

This whole thing sounds a little fishy to me. (Sorry, couldn't resist.) You try shoving a crevis tool up there?

Try ebay. Just checked and prices start at $150 for a complete, used mirror assy.

Is "bedding the pads" the same as "burnishing"? (A few hard stops from 45 mph?)

Would it be possible to move the seat back further and therefore drive with your legs in a more straight forward position? Or possibly lower the seat causing the leg to contact the side of the consul rather than riding up and over? (Just thinking out loud.)

Perhaps you could avoid blocking the sensor's by using an elevated bike rack? Another advantage is these will parallelogram out to allow to hatch to open while the bikes are still attached for easy access to the cargo space. Here's one example of what I'm talking about (click on the video to see how it works): http://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-softride-element-parallelogram-hitch-bike-racks-2015-toyota-highlander-sr26248.aspx

I get fast starts at -5° using an older 650 CCA. (09 MKX, fully loaded, battery getting red diode on Solar BA-7, charge system gets green diode.) Wonder if the extra cost of an 850 CCA is worth it. Can you make an estimate of how much longer than an AGM would outlast a lead acid?

Nice! What do you think about Escort Live? Kind of interesting to see a radar hit pop up from another driver from another part of the driving area, isn't it? What did you go with for the mount? (I'm running the Max and decided to stay with the standard mount. It looks like you went with the Blend mount).

Laser jammer's are illegal in all states. A good radar detector is worth considering, still legal in most states.

Look at the right-hand haft shaft seal. Others have reported that oil was leaking at the PTU, collecting on the heat shield and dripping down on the exhaust manifold.

According to the package, the operating range is 7-15 volts, 100-1200 CCA.

Haven't taken mine in yet (no gas smell, no leaks). My local dealer told me it's usually one day (they will give loaner if it goes over) for a FWD, and up to three days for AWD. Reason for up to three days, if tank is found leaking, they impound car until new tank is received and installed. They have FWD tanks in stock and have to order AWD tanks. Said they didn't expect to find a faulty AWD tank. Different I guess.

If you search for speakers for a 2013 edge on Amazon, you get several 6x8 that pops up. Example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032FOKAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1455320478&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2013+ford+edge+speaker Probably was too deep.

I should mention that I had developed a stutter last year, took it in for normal service, and they found an injector was clogged (or partly clogged). Had them clean the injectors, they ran a cleaner through each injector, seemed to work, no stutter afterwards. Guess I should run a cleaner more often than once a year. Service agent thought it had more to do where I had bought my gas - had been travelling and stopped at a couple or small stations. May had gotten some old Ethanol. As I had bought used, figured it was just because the previous owner had not used any cleaner while he owned it.

I've had good success using Techron once a year.

Sooooo, after watching your video, I decided to break down and buy one. First test on wifie poo's car and yellow LED. Battery needs a charge. (Oh come now, she just drove home and it was fully charged). It was showing 11.78 volts.... and 477 CCA. Next morning (yesterday), it didn't have enough to start. Found one of the map lights had been left on. Tested it tonight after she got home an 15.1 volts 736 CCA and green LED. (650 CCA battery). So I tested my battery in the MKX. Starts every time, strong, looks clean, no problems, right. 14.71 volts.... Got a red LED and 559 cca (650 CCA battery). Battery works great, passed a Ford garage test, and still got a red LED. Must be a defective cell, so I guess I'll be buying a new battery. (Snort) Both cars passed charging system tests. (Great way to see what's going on without a hassle). Thanks for posting this, it really is a great way to (really) test batteries.

Sorry for your loss. I know what a good lawn/garden tractor means to a man. I have a Simplicity. A "good" Deere (NOT the one's you find at the big box stores), over a Cub. (Not the tractor it used to be). No contest. Take a second look at Simplicity. Some nice features as well.

Yea, lawn mower engines can do this just from mowing on a grade (don't really have pressurized journals until you get into lawn tractor sized engines).

Based my response on the car "worked fine on the way home". Based on that, I assumed the service tech did the testing to ensure it was fixed. Did they check the throttle body position sensor? Believe that could cause this.