enigma-2

Man was I out of it. Looked up AAA for my area and it showed $150/hr. What the sam hell? I'm so used to "got a warranty" and never pay, I wasn't paying attention. (saving face) "I was quoting pre-Covid" prices. (cough, cough). Also on the website "changing a fuse, $10 - $50. A FUSE! Damn. I'm coming out of retirement.

If it's not any trouble, any chance you could look in the IDS to see how to activate a rear camera in a 2009 MKX? They designed the car to use a camera, but never offered it as an option in US cars (just in Japanese cars). Like to add one.

When we go swimming at the lake, I lock my wallet and keys in the car. Use the buttons to access the door and rear hatch when returning. Plus, I've accidentally locked my keys in the car. Lock pad is a life saver. Annnnnnnnd, it's fun to play with. ?

12 hours labor!!!! Let's see, at $80/hr that's ....... ridiculous. Should make this a sticky for future members.

I read over in the 150 forum that the aluminum pan does NOT fit the 2.7 ecoboost engine. From everything I've read, it's the quality of the aftermarket silicon gasket job that in question. Apparently the trick is to get both mating surfaces spotless. No oil. Means spraying with brake clean then wiping down with clean towels. Then leave everything sit for an extended period for cure.

Passenger seat power backrest went backwards but not forward. (Ever notice how much your wife whine about riding in a near prone position? Think it ess the end of all life on earth). Isolated to switch. Jiggle, wriggle and rock. Sometime worked, most times not. Changed switch today. Should just say it was a breeze, but in truth you'd think I could have dropped the sub-frame easier. Not that it's hard, just 2-10T and remove the curved trim. And it's one piece, curved around both the front and back of the seat. Can't pull it forward because it's wrapped around the back, can't release the center because it has to be pushed forward to release. Service manual had a paragraph on how to remove this (*&^%%$@!) trim piece. Pull back but not too hard, twist, list, get up and run around car twice ..... And then there was the connector from hell. Just push in on the tab and pull connector out. Became a test of manhood. It won rounds 1-6. I kicked its assets on the 7th. Blood everywhere but hey, the more you bleed in peace, the less ... . Works great now. All quiet on the westssenger front. Peace, love, oem

If you do preventive maintenance on regular basis, coolant and oil changes, should be sufficient to protect water pump. One tech said in YouTube video that pumps fail early from bad maintenance.

Evaporator or heater core? The evaporator is part of the a/c system. Water on the drivers floorwell is usually a clogged up hvac drain. If this occurs after a rain or car wash, leaking body joints. If you smell coolant, could be steam venting, or leaking in engine comp. If smell in cabin. I'd suspect leak in heater core or water hoses.

Be certain to disconnect the battery. I'm in the process of changing out a 10-way seat switch (one function is touchy). One would expect to remove the old switch, unplug it, then install the new one. Surprisingly, the service manual requires the SRS to be disabled before the switch is removed. Then the engine be turned to on to verify the warning light is on, the off and the switch can then be removed. Don't know how the seat restraint system is wired to the seat switch, but .....

I'll mirror dabangsta's comments. This is Ford's official position on octane. Your vehicle is designed to operate on regular unleaded gasoline with a minimum pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. Some fuel stations, particularly those in high altitude areas, offer fuels posted as regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating below 87. The use of these fuels could result in engine damage that will not be covered by the vehicle warranty. For best overall vehicle and engine performance, premium fuel with an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended. The performance gained by using premium fuel is most noticeable in hot weather as well as other conditions, for example when towing a trailer. Do not be concerned if the engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if the engine knocks heavily while using fuel with the recommended octane rating, contact an authorized dealer to prevent any engine damage. Actually knocking is necessary for the knock sensor to determine where the max lean condition exists. The ECM/PMC uses the knock sensor readout as one parameter in setting the timing, so the engine can run as lean as possible. (Without causing damage). According to Ford, if the highest octane is used, the engine doesn't knock and the ECM/PMC sets the fuel to run richer as a safety feature. Performance and mpg will suffer very slightly. (You can't get better milage nor performance inasmuch as it's exactly the same gas, same hydrocarbons. The anti-knock is added to delay detonation. It takes up a very slight volume from the gas and a tiny amount more gas is needed for the same power.)

I have these on my 09 MKX, OEM. Have had three sets of new tires mounted + tires repaired. No problems with plastic covers. Also had new Motorcraft TPMS sensors installed on all four wheels + one reinstalled a second time after I bought a new wheel when a damn curb jumped up and ran out in front of my car. These plastic covers can be removed fairly easily, takes a couple of minutes. WWWPerfA posted one of his videos, here's another on an easy way to remove, and there's a second followup on painting the aluminum rims: I *think* the plastic replacement covers are no longer sold. At least I don't have a URL for the site. When I needed a new wheel, my dealer priced it out, forget the price, think it was in the $600 range. Talked to the service manager and ended up getting it for in the $300's. OEM as far as I know. Huge mark ups on these rims, ask dealer to get at his discount. Never hurts to ask.

Looks like excellent quality.

I'm not familiar with your sync version, but I've had similar problems in the past with connectivity. The most common problem is your wireless router in the house is not discoverable. (Isn't broadcasting it's presence). If this is the case, try making the router discoverable long enough to establish a connection. Then you can turn off broadcasting again. The 2nd possible cause is the wireless signal is too weak to make a good connection. You should be able to get a signal out around 150 ft, but that can be attenuated due to building features and materials. I can connect in my garage, but get a much stronger signal in my driveway.

Your sensor batteries are failing. You're at the end of the 10 year lifespan. When I replaced mine, I used Motorcraft, but the cost is a 2x. Problem with aftermarket is they work when new, but have a reputation for failing after 6 mos or more. Then you're back to square one. Probably depends on brand. You pay more with Motorcraft but you know they will hold up for ten years.

Things that come to mind that could cause this, 1. Wheel alignment (look at tires for uneven tire wear) 2. Bad shock or strut (visually look for traces of oil leaking down shock/strut) 3. Loose steering leakage (car will need to be raised to check) 4. Bad ball joint(s).

If there wasn't dye already in the system, hard to pin point leak. Dye should find it next time. Most common point of refrigerant loss over time are the cores in the Schrader valves. The o-rings on the cores get hard and leak. Best place to look, if leak is slow. After that, drag out the black light or sniffer. I took mine in for a refrigerant top off last month and had all three cores replaced. (Only down by a couple of ounces, but this is turning out to be a hot summer. Cheap insurance. Didn't charge me as to added it on to some other warranty work I was having done).

As HAZ posted, one problem that causes DSM is a low battery. Seems most likely. Problem with this is, Deep Sleep Mode isn't supposed to trigger when the car's running. If got message after remote start and then shut off, battery drained after start triggered it. If triggered while running, welp, that can't happen. Doesn’t trigger when car running. Only thing that comes to mind is weak battery. Have battery CCA tested (not voltage test). DSM triggers if not started for 14 days, very cold Temps or low battery.

Look at that garage! Walls painted, even white moldings. Floor so clean you could eat off it. You'd drop your poo if you seen mine.

I always specify Motorcraft, but good to know about Denso. Good cost savings. Thanks for posting this.

Elrod327 said he replaced the cabin air filter, and blower motor; so they can be eliminated. I'd be concerned as to why the refrigerant was low in the first place. As you didn't state the mechanic diagnosed where the leak was, I hope he put in some dye into the port before adding refrigerant. Inasmuch as the gas is just going to leak out again. FWIW, the cabin air filters are supposed to be restrictive. The back pressure is designed into the system. I spray mine with two sprays. QwikProducts PuraClean Air Filter Spray Cleaner, Improve Air Filtration Helps Remove Air Pollutants, Dust, and Debris, Increases Capture in Air Filter for Cleaner Air, 12 Ounces https://a.co/d/hakiNLw And, WEB Filter Charger, 14 oz https://a.co/d/3Sa3lw5

At my last brake job, I had Ford garage use Motorcraft 'Superduty' pads with regular rotors (all 4 axles). Noticed a slight (positive) difference in stopping power over standard pads. (Actually it's the best the MKX has ever stopped). I doubt rotors make much difference, no need for slotted or drilled rotors on a over-the-road car, they were designed for race cars (although some drive like they're on a race track). Solid rotors stop better but have greater heat fade after several hard stops. Normal driving solid are better, hence the reason Ford installs solid on OEMs. What tires are you running? Tires pay an important factor in braking. Tires can affect stopping distance and slowing power.

I kind of think that this is a normal condition. The airflow to the drivers side is a longer path (besides having the steering column forcing a longer path). The cold air outlets in the center instrument panel will always have more volume and colder temps due to their shor length. The outlets at the ends have more length and turns causing more airflow resistance. Unless there's barely no airflow at all, I wouldn't be concerned. But it that is the condition, I'd follow the duct out to the outlet (and the outlet itself) for kinks or breaks.

Agree. When it stalled, we were driving in town (slow), it was really hot, we had just started off from a traffic signal and the a/c compressor had just kicked on. Think the load was too high, never done it before or after. Hate these once-in-a-great-while faults. Aren't enough to set a code but real pita.

Passenger seat heat/cool stopped working back on May. Dealer changed seat TED unit. Said it was a little over $800 but extended warranty covered it 100%. Seat stopped working next day. Dealer diagnosed that seat back TED had failed. Surmised that seat unit took out the seat back unit when it failed. The extended warranty ran out June 1st, but they went back and added the unit onto the original the service order, and filed with warranty. Only got a glimpse of the dealer's copy of the service order, was $921. Uh Ya. For a TED unit. Also had a no start couple of days ago, cranked and tried to start, but couldn't. Gas related. Started on second attempt no problem. 2nd time this happened. (About 9-10 months ago). Also died while driving once last winter. Restarted immediately. So I had them check the purge valve. Tested ok, told me they used the computer to open and close the valve on demand, several times, and it worked flawlessly. But seeings how it's intermittent, it didn't surprise me. Happens one more time and I'll change the valve. Anything else I should be considering?

I just have my dealer do it. $80 and done.