enigma-2

I have an older MKX that monitors tire pressure but doesn't display the individual tire pressures. Does anyone know of a tire pressure reader that can be held next to a tire and read the tire pressure by reading the TPMS inside the tire? Think they are operating at 315 mHz.

There's a youtube video that describes changing just the cover (which contains the electronic components). Supposed to be less expensive for warranty work. https://youtu.be/ZNxXM75zJOw

Concerning the removal of the cat, I know it's not legal for a licensed dealer to sell a car here in Indiana without a catalytic converter. If you remove or modify any part of the emissions controls and sell or trade to a dealer, he will reduce you sale or trade by the amount required to restore the car to oem. (And charge you list price+labor). Don't know about other states, but I would imagine it's the same. I understand why anyone like a little oomph sound with their car, to me, they just sound bad with an automatic. With a luxury car, I prefer quiet. Dead silent, in fact. Even road noise is annoying.

Is it possible that it's something else? Could a misbalanced driveshaft (awd) cause this?

looks like main power comes off fuse 18 in the battery junction box. Secondary power is taken through 17 & 41 in the SJB. 17 is global open, & 41 is accessory delay. But main power, what you use when you hold the overhead switch, comes from the engine compartment fuse block. It appears that the logic is actually in the BAMR "smart front glass motor". I just can't see any connection between the substitution of LEDS and the BAMR motors. (I could be wrong, but it does appear that the lighting and moonroof motors are totally isolated). Dennis

It's testing the emission system. Should not be a problem.

Looking over the circuit, I don't see any connection between lighting and roof opening panel. Agree probably not fuses, but did you check all three? Fuse #18 in battery junction box, #17 in fuse panel (global open) & #41 (delay acc.) Only one location where the roof panel and interior lighting are connected is at S903, a ground connection. This is under the headliner, directly over the drivers door. No possible way that installing LEDs could cause this IMO.

Doesn't seem to have a coralation between the two. Really sounds like a coincidence. Sounds silly, but if you feel that there is a connection, you could go back and try substituting the original incadescent bulbs, see if the window returns to normal. Are you certain that you got all of the lubrication in all the right places?

Do you notice the vibration when the the tires are cold or only after they have been driven a while and are hot?

Would think that insurance would cover this. (?)

Did you go through the voice training after you got your car? I bought my MKX used and had this problem. Turned out it was still voice trained to the couple who had owned the car before me, and the woman's voice was set as primary.

Wonder if any light can reach the overflow bottle in the engine comp?

I have my Escort Passport Max II attached to a bracket under the mirror and wired into the rear-view mirror's electrical connector, with a harness. The harness cost between $20-$30 and only took a few minutes to wire. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006074LT8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Powers on with the ignition and is on the delay when engine is turned off (or off immediately when a door is opened). Well satisfied with this setup. The idea of feeding a wire under the headliner, down through the pillers and through the spaghetti of wiring to the fuse box, where you need to jury rig a connection, never appealed to me.

It sounds to me more like a defective switch. It might either be corroded contact surface (an easy fix, take apart and clean with contact cleaner), or possibly a worn contact surface (if they made the contact surfaces out of a conductive paint instead of copper/brass).

Yea, that does look like chemical staining. What I would do is take it to a local Ford body shop and show it to them. It will probably require a professional to fix.

Assume you be using a dog guard between the front seats and 2nd row; such as this http://www.walmart.com/ip/21889853?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228016814844&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40839862232&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78653160272&veh=sem

Ebay 321767059171

Looks like part #18 or 19 on OMAR32's reference.

Ah, ok, sorry for the confusion. I looked at the pic's and seen blue while it described the light as white. Assumed it was blue-white.

So, simple. Tell em your name is Mark Fields and you don't want the sunroof!

I don't think that this is legal. Amber or white is required by law if I'm not mistaken. (FMVSS 108 referenced by all state DOT laws.)

Speaking only for my 09 MKZ, my OEM hitch wiring terminates in a standard female connector. I can't imagine any installation which would leave wires dangling. This is a dangerous area (for damage to wiring), and damaged wires can cause a car fire. All installations must terminate in a female connector and the wires protected from damage. Anything else is amateur hour.

Speaking only for my 09 MKZ, the wiring terminates in a standard few female connector. I can't imagine any installation which would leave wires dangling. This is a dangerous area (for damage to wiring), and damaged wires can cause a car fire. All installations must terminate in a female connector and the wires protected from damage. Anything else is amateur hour.

I wonder if one were to build a shield over the back of the sensor (blocking the heat of the engine) would partially correct the problem?

Never really liked the spray. Went back to Rain-X in the bottle (liquid). More work to put on, but worth the extra effort imo.