enigma-2

Not to make little of these, but what good are they? Are they just for looks, or do they serve a purpose?

Outstanding video, Mac. I would have never thought about this. Wonder if it would be feasible to seal the gap with silicone or something? I've never had a problem with mine, but still good information.

Been following this thread and thought I would check mine. (2009 MKX, factory hitch). It's a 7 pin connector. The pins are arranged with six semi-circular pins with one large one in the center. Also has a wiring connector located above the brake pedal.

On Mt 09 MKX, it's at the top, back of the engine compartment, at the top of the firewall. There is a box (of sorts) and the filter is on the bottom of this "box". Look closely at the back of the engine compartment, starting at point just at the point where the hood starts. If you run your hand on the underside of this box, you will feel a solf, filter type material. If you pry (gently), you will see that this filter part separates easily from the box.

Does the low fuel indicator illuminate when you first turn the key on?

Imo, it would unlikely. An easy way to check, is to switch the system into the recirculate mode. If the air foward improves, look to see if there anything blocking the opening. If it doesn't improve, most likely the blockage is in the heater core area. Addl One other thing came to mind after I posted the above. As Your in Texas, although unlikely, it might be possible that the engine compartment air intake filter is clogged with dirt. If you look at the top, back of the engine compartment, you will notice a long, (2 ft) piece that's made from something like felt or a soft filter material (clipped on the underside). Reach back and run you hand across the surface. It should be clean. If it's dirty, I think I would try blowing pressured sir in reverse, from the cabin filter opening, upward, to try and flow it clean. Suppose you could also pull it down a little and get a pressure sprayer on the back side ad well.

I originally used the smartcord, switched over to using my cell phone after I started with the mirror tap.

Just put in a new cabin filter as well. ATF carbon (FA-14). $13.46 on Amazon.

Oh hell yes!!!

Removes by pulling the switch towards the rear of the vehicle. After removal, disconnect the electrical connection. Addl note. This is the service manual procedure for the 09,10 years. Assume it's the same for the 07.

Fuse #17, but may lose control of power windows, door locks and BAMR motors. Just curious, if bad switch is on driver's door (only), does unlocking door with key reset system?

I have an older MKX that monitors tire pressure but doesn't display the individual tire pressures. Does anyone know of a tire pressure reader that can be held next to a tire and read the tire pressure by reading the TPMS inside the tire? Think they are operating at 315 mHz.

There's a youtube video that describes changing just the cover (which contains the electronic components). Supposed to be less expensive for warranty work. https://youtu.be/ZNxXM75zJOw

Concerning the removal of the cat, I know it's not legal for a licensed dealer to sell a car here in Indiana without a catalytic converter. If you remove or modify any part of the emissions controls and sell or trade to a dealer, he will reduce you sale or trade by the amount required to restore the car to oem. (And charge you list price+labor). Don't know about other states, but I would imagine it's the same. I understand why anyone like a little oomph sound with their car, to me, they just sound bad with an automatic. With a luxury car, I prefer quiet. Dead silent, in fact. Even road noise is annoying.

Is it possible that it's something else? Could a misbalanced driveshaft (awd) cause this?

looks like main power comes off fuse 18 in the battery junction box. Secondary power is taken through 17 & 41 in the SJB. 17 is global open, & 41 is accessory delay. But main power, what you use when you hold the overhead switch, comes from the engine compartment fuse block. It appears that the logic is actually in the BAMR "smart front glass motor". I just can't see any connection between the substitution of LEDS and the BAMR motors. (I could be wrong, but it does appear that the lighting and moonroof motors are totally isolated). Dennis

It's testing the emission system. Should not be a problem.

Looking over the circuit, I don't see any connection between lighting and roof opening panel. Agree probably not fuses, but did you check all three? Fuse #18 in battery junction box, #17 in fuse panel (global open) & #41 (delay acc.) Only one location where the roof panel and interior lighting are connected is at S903, a ground connection. This is under the headliner, directly over the drivers door. No possible way that installing LEDs could cause this IMO.

Doesn't seem to have a coralation between the two. Really sounds like a coincidence. Sounds silly, but if you feel that there is a connection, you could go back and try substituting the original incadescent bulbs, see if the window returns to normal. Are you certain that you got all of the lubrication in all the right places?

Do you notice the vibration when the the tires are cold or only after they have been driven a while and are hot?

Would think that insurance would cover this. (?)

Did you go through the voice training after you got your car? I bought my MKX used and had this problem. Turned out it was still voice trained to the couple who had owned the car before me, and the woman's voice was set as primary.

Wonder if any light can reach the overflow bottle in the engine comp?

I have my Escort Passport Max II attached to a bracket under the mirror and wired into the rear-view mirror's electrical connector, with a harness. The harness cost between $20-$30 and only took a few minutes to wire. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006074LT8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Powers on with the ignition and is on the delay when engine is turned off (or off immediately when a door is opened). Well satisfied with this setup. The idea of feeding a wire under the headliner, down through the pillers and through the spaghetti of wiring to the fuse box, where you need to jury rig a connection, never appealed to me.

It sounds to me more like a defective switch. It might either be corroded contact surface (an easy fix, take apart and clean with contact cleaner), or possibly a worn contact surface (if they made the contact surfaces out of a conductive paint instead of copper/brass).