enigma-2

You guys realize that this are cars, not trucks, right? These are CUVs not SUVs).

Believe there's either two or three depending on whether its a standard system or automatic temperature controlled. Try resetting the blend door actuator and see if it helps. Start by removing the fuse that provides power to the HVAC system. Then start the car and run the AC system for about two minutes. (This requires the system to reset itself). After two minutes, turn the car off and put the fuse back in.

Here's one, many more on YouTube.

I'd say yes, not too hard. Some actuators are easier to reach than others, so depends on which one is starting to fail. YouTube has videos on changing.

Try a screen reset. Simultaneously press and hold the 'Seek up' and the audio unit 'Power' buttons until the screen goes black. Wait three / four minutes to allow the system to complete the reset. Problem has also been linked to a defective APIM. Ford used to have an extended warranty on it, don't remember if it's still in effect however.

I'd lean towards a blend door actuator that's failing. They tend to make a clicking (or ticking) or droning when they start to fail. Next time you hear it, try changing where the air comes out, that is, switch to defrost position, to activate the actuator. If the sound stops you found your suspect.

Had something similar in my 09 MKX. It turned out to be the bearings in the fan motor were going dry and making weird sounds. Intermittent. Think the fan runs on low, whether a/c on or not. I was able fix it by pulling out the motor (takes 5 minutes tops, remove 3 screws and it pops out) and spraying some WD40 into the bearings (top and bottom). So far its been good for three years.

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Thought the recall was a software patch that downloaded and installed automatically? What other problems are you having?

For #1, try changing the battery. I found our local grocery store has these batteries much cheaper than the drugs store. The transmitter should operate anywhere in the car, even in a purse or pant pocket. A weak battery may need to fall back to the RFID system, which is passive, bypasses to fob battery and needs to IA to be real close to the transceiver. #2, see #1. #3. Lot of money to change over. Consider if you really need it. Could just live with it for a couple of months and reevaluate. You really don't "need" it. But you may just "want" it.

? Ever think you'd be happy about paying over $500 for a rear view mirror? ?

After the update, and before the restart, did you wait 3 minutes? Did the display state "system updated" after the restart? Is there a down arrow on upper right if screen? If you intend to do the upgrade again, this is the proper procedure: 1. Remove the flash drive. 2. Perform a master reset. 3. Turn the vehicle off and open the driver side door. 4. Once radio turns off, close the door and wait 5 minutes. 5. Start the vehicle and insert the flash drive. 6. Wait until the update starts.

This video may help you in changing the battery in the proximity key fob:

As this occurred after a fender-bender, its possible that it could be a wiring problem, possibly the connector. If the connection and wiring look good (no pinched wires, torn insulation, corroded connector, etc.), a new sensor is only about $20-$25. Any codes stored?

Well, that's clear as mud. Another clear and concise example of Ford's outstanding description of exactly what equipment they put in their cars.

6 months? Ummmmm. Motorcraft or Chinese aftermarket?

Sounds like a dragging brake shoe. (Had one on my 56 vicky that sounded like that). Don't know which way the starr wheel is turned, try taking the drum off and do a visual. As it seems to stop after you adjust the drum brake, I'd focus on the adjuster mechanism to start. It may not be holding the adjustment. (Again on my 56, corrosion had frozen the adjuster and the shoes would work themselves back too tight.) As its a 2010, think I'd also try new brake shoes (passenger side is probably worn past limits anyways). Basically simple system. Check cables controlling brakes and adjuster. My bet is corrosion has frozen one or the other.

Sorry, misread your post as shock meaning strut. (Duh). It may sound silly, but have you checked is there's anything lose in the spare tire well. I used to carry my trailer hitch ball and bracket back there and had a simular rattle when going over bumps. Possly the spare tire and jack assembly is loose?

You check ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274023513733?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wImpftUJSky&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Dealers use rivets. Several responders used self-taping stainless steel hex-nut screws. (After you drill the holes). https://a.co/d/bARSYJu

OMG ....

Not for nothing, this is a five year old thread and the OP has moved on.

Sounds like they didn't change the strut bearings. When they get old, the stick. This causes tge spring to "jump" rather than turn with the bearing. Causes this clunk, clunk sound.

Ford Boss Me

I *hate* wire nuts. Especially in a car. In the future, I'd recommend using heat shrink connectors with built-in solder. You slip in stripped wire each side and use heat gun. Solder melt first, ensuring a good mechanical and electrical bond, followed by heat shrink, shrinking down to enclose connection. Good, easy, fast permanent electrical connection you never need to worry about. (If you don't have a heat gun, a propane cigarette lighter works just fine). haisstronica 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors-Marine Grade Heat Shrink Wire Connectors-Heat Shrink Butt Connectors-Butt Splice Wire Connectors for Stereo,Electrical with Corrosion and Weatherproof https://a.co/d/8LTwntd