enigma-2

There is a button on your screen that's labeled "ALERT". If you're listening to a song and like it, click this button, and will take you into a menu that, once enabled, you can be alerted when either the song or artist is playing. Then when listening to SIRIUS radio, an alert will pop up on the screen to notify you when your song & artist is playing and ask if you want to tune to the station. If you don't want it, you can turn it off. P.S. don't set an alarm for Elvis or the Beatles or anyone who's playing all the time unless you love alerts ?

One of the newest YouTube videos from FordBossMe on installing a universal catch can. One very interesting feature was the method of removing the preformed ends of the OEM PVC hose to reuse with the Dorman tubing as supplied with the kit.

I agree with @akirby, buy yourself a Solar BA9 (this unit tests both battery CCAs & charging system). $58. Cheap insurance for piece of mind. Can't tell you how useful it's been for me. Clore Automotive CA Clore Automotive SOLAR Digital 12V Battery and System Tester https://a.co/d/jeX4NtD

Sorry, memory, just got out of the hospital, still a little batty. Wrong sizes, but was talking about 1/2 sizes. Think it was one of Rainman vids. dabangsta got it right.

Seen in YouTube video where mechanic used a either 14.5mm or 15.5mm, 1/2" drive sockets on chrome-capped nuts. Worked perfectly. Think Amazon carries them

Page diwn and click on Save on required installation gear

Check these out. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BV960N/Boss-BV960NV.html?tp=20212 (They have better radios running well over a grand, but better functions and options like Sirus satellite radio and stuff. Look around while you're there). But this one lets you add a backup camera. Steering wheel control harness: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BV960N/Boss-BV960NV.html?tp=20212

On 09 MKX the drivers side did this. Tried carefully reinstalling it and left it closed exposed to the hot sun to retake its shape. Worked for a while, but all it took is one close to again bend out of shape. Eventually bit the bullet and bought a replacment. Comes as a kit with the weather shield bellows and steel rods. As you found, expensive as hell, but there's no other choice if you want to restore OEM performance. Purchase appears to be as a weather seal. Replacement has been perfect for several years now. Wrote a description of the replacement here:

Hi bwguardian, read through this previous discussion where a fellow forum member did this on a 2008.

Engine needs a slight amount of knock to determine where the rich/lean setting is. Without knock, ecm defaults to a rich setting to protect the engine. MPG falls as well. 91 octane blocks knock and knock sensors can't send signal.

Get a 2nd opinion from a different dealer. That quote smells like week old fish to me. Like they don't know what the real problem is, and quoted throwing a parts cannon at it. If the AWD coupling is locked up, it's either thr coupling unit or the module itself.

This issue has been seen in sync 3 as well. Seems to be a timing issue upon start up. Try removing the USB stick, then after starting, turn off the radio, waith for the various modules to connect (wait at least a minute), then turn on the audio then plug in the USB stick.

Water pump issues are generally thought to be the result of poor maintenance. Change your oil on schedule (or sooner) and coolant and should go a long, long time. All season for year around. Winter tires aren't recommended on hot asphalt. Noisy too. Besides, streets got plowed soon enough and you'll be driving an AWD. I run all season, have AWD and never been stuck. Biggest problem is it's a much heavier car than a stang and will slide a lotttttt further in snow or ice. (First time you drive on icy streets, wear a diper). Doesn't take long to get the hang of it. If you modify the exhaust, may not be able to get extended warranty (if that would ever be considered). 2013 is one of the years that are listed as having problems. 2014 is a much better year. As for the battery, been discussed here before. Don't remember what the conclusion was, think it was ok. Do a search in the forum.

If it were me, I'd look for a vacuum leak. (Air leaking in after the maf and ecm trying to compensate with more fuel). Possible a vac hose isn't on tight enough or cracked when changing stuff?

I'm planning on a preventive maintenance water pump change out somewhere between 175k and 200k. My dealer drops the A-Frame as it's easier. (Easier means they charge more, lol) Believe it's also a good time to pop in new plugs as well. (Wonder if r&r the the PVC is worth considering as well.)

Check for corroded battery terminals. Then check CCA rating of battery (not just voltage).

Great news. But admit it, you're gonna miss those all-day trips to the garage. lol

My dealer took mine off during service and forgot to put it back on. I went back when i discovered it misding but they had already thrown it away. Hah! I made them order another and a week later they called to replace it. On them!

Well, the talk over there is the aluminum pan doesn't fit, seems I read some time back that someone tried it. Maybe there's a difference between the truck version and the CUV version? If I were you, I'd wait to find someone who's actually tried the install. I don't remember anyone successfully doing it, but I haven't really followed the subject too carefully. Perhaps if you talked with the local Ford Garage Service Manager? These guys are really knowledgeable on the basic problems and if anyone has done this, they may know about it. Never hurts to stop by and ask, I've done it probably too many times; got a reputation for questions, questions, questions. But I've found that my local SM loves to answer questions, including going to the area rep and even Ford Engineering, for answers. He has so much knowledge and no one ever asks him what he thinks. Another way to go, is to make certain the Ebay seller specifically states In the listing, that it will fit your exact engine (again, in writing) & that you can return it, if it fails to fit. I wish the best for you, i hate oil leaks, but it seams to me, that a good due job, on the existing plastic pan, is what's really required. If it was my car, I'd have the Lincoln Garage do the job and get a warranty on it. But for the cost of a 12 hour repair, it would have to be a lifetime warranty !!!

Man was I out of it. Looked up AAA for my area and it showed $150/hr. What the sam hell? I'm so used to "got a warranty" and never pay, I wasn't paying attention. (saving face) "I was quoting pre-Covid" prices. (cough, cough). Also on the website "changing a fuse, $10 - $50. A FUSE! Damn. I'm coming out of retirement.

If it's not any trouble, any chance you could look in the IDS to see how to activate a rear camera in a 2009 MKX? They designed the car to use a camera, but never offered it as an option in US cars (just in Japanese cars). Like to add one.

When we go swimming at the lake, I lock my wallet and keys in the car. Use the buttons to access the door and rear hatch when returning. Plus, I've accidentally locked my keys in the car. Lock pad is a life saver. Annnnnnnnd, it's fun to play with. ?

12 hours labor!!!! Let's see, at $80/hr that's ....... ridiculous. Should make this a sticky for future members.

I read over in the 150 forum that the aluminum pan does NOT fit the 2.7 ecoboost engine. From everything I've read, it's the quality of the aftermarket silicon gasket job that in question. Apparently the trick is to get both mating surfaces spotless. No oil. Means spraying with brake clean then wiping down with clean towels. Then leave everything sit for an extended period for cure.

Passenger seat power backrest went backwards but not forward. (Ever notice how much your wife whine about riding in a near prone position? Think it ess the end of all life on earth). Isolated to switch. Jiggle, wriggle and rock. Sometime worked, most times not. Changed switch today. Should just say it was a breeze, but in truth you'd think I could have dropped the sub-frame easier. Not that it's hard, just 2-10T and remove the curved trim. And it's one piece, curved around both the front and back of the seat. Can't pull it forward because it's wrapped around the back, can't release the center because it has to be pushed forward to release. Service manual had a paragraph on how to remove this (*&^%%$@!) trim piece. Pull back but not too hard, twist, list, get up and run around car twice ..... And then there was the connector from hell. Just push in on the tab and pull connector out. Became a test of manhood. It won rounds 1-6. I kicked its assets on the 7th. Blood everywhere but hey, the more you bleed in peace, the less ... . Works great now. All quiet on the westssenger front. Peace, love, oem