enigma-2

Candy. Jesus,where do you guys live, South Chicago?

I think the main problem with certain aftermarket filter, like the K&N, is the extra dirt the let in, causing the oil to get dirty sooner. Here's a good discussion on the subject (discussion links to actual aftermarket filter testing to ISO 5011 stds). http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3148386 One thing to keep in mind is, if installing a more porus filter was an easy way to more hp or mpg without any down sides, don't you think that Ford (or GM, or Toyota, or Chrysler, or ...) would have adopted it? K&N was developed for racing engines. They don't care about dirty oil as the tear down the engine and change to oil after every race, so it doesn't really matter. Far different matter with a domestic auto that has to last the life of the car.

If your blades are more than six months old, I'd clean the windshield really clean and put on new (quality) blades.

If your blades are more than six months old, I'd clean the windshield really clean and put on new (quality) blades.

Consider contacting the finance officer at your local dealer and ask for a copy of the Canadian ESP. Should lay out the details of what it covers in writing. At the same time, mention that you may be traveling to the states and ask if the warranty will be honored by a dealer in the lower 48 should you need it when here. (Should establish if the ESP is Canada only or North America). You could also contact the Ford dealer representative here in the forum and see what he says. Think it's Levittown Ford (forget the exact name, please excuse me if I got it wrong; anyway they are in the supplier's forum). .

Been discussed before, see this link. It's in the grill area. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19870-outside-air-temp-sensor-not-working/

Eby Ford, Goshen, IN. It's been my experience that the people working the front desk are not mechanics; they're really salesmen (er, sales assiciates). Whenever I see them hedging, I ask to speak with a mechanic. I've never been disappointed in talking to the mechanics. Remember the old addage, "the customer's always right". -》And you're the customer. Don't like what their tell you, ask to speak with the dealership owner. (One advantage to being a senior citizen is, I just don't give a damn).

I use one of them on my furnace to remember to change the filter and another one for servicing the humidifier & water softener. Labels work better for me (to make removal easier, I only attach 1/2 the adhesive strip).

I use one of them on my furnace to remember to change the filter and another one for servicing the humidifier & water softener. Labels work better for me (to make removal easier, I only attach 1/2 the adhesive strip).

When I took mine in, the asst service mgr didn't have a code for change of fluid, couldn't estimate the cost. I had him call up the mechanic and he said, "sure, I can do that, good idea", estimated labor at 1/2 hour and fluid cost. Think I paid around $80.

Mine came yesterday, dropped it in, went with Motorcraft. Got my Brother label maker and put a label on the filter housing with date and milage as I can never remember the last time I replaced it.

You talking about Sync 1 or 2? If yes, would need a product like Lockpick or simular as nav system wasn't designed to take more that one video input. If Sync 3, don't know if Addl hardware needed or not.

What? No chandelier?

Want pics!!

Just thought I'd note that I got my rebate check from Mobile, yesterday. Cane in a "tear the sides off, then tear off the top. Looks like a advertisement, so check before you pitch.

Here's a video on how to remove the bumper (with grill).

Any plans to hook up the turn signal light? That would be a nice enhancement.

!!!

Both the front and rear washer system use the same washer pump. When the windshield wiper module (wwmm) receives a signal from the multifunction switch, the wwmm closes the relay (inside the wwmm) and sends voltage to the pump. (Pump has two wires, one for front wash, the other for back wash). If your certain that the motor DOES run with a back wash, and NOT RUN with a front wash, could be a bad washer pump (already changed) or a bad windshield wiper motor. (Could be wiring as well, easy to isolate by testing for resistance with a vom). To test with a vom, pull the washer pump motor connector and connect + lead to terminal 2 of connector (- lead to a good ground; ignition on) and see if the resistace is <5 ohms. If >5 ohms pull windshield wiper motor connector (turn off ignition), and connect the + lead to terminal #7 and terminal #2 of the washer pump motor connector (using the - lead). (Tests to see if wiring is bad. Blue/white wire). If resistance is >5 ohms, locate and repair break in wiring. If <5 ohms, check the wiper motor connector for corrosion or bent pins. If connector looks ok, wiper motor is probably bad.

Well, as I drive a lincoln, I prefer a chandelier, but each to their own. Heh heh

Door lock, page 59.

Have you updated your phone with the latest OS? Don't know about Apple, but Android was just updated in June (might make a difference).

Given any thought to plastic diping it? (Same color as car). Cheaper and easier.

Ahhh it's blurred? You have a paddle fan in your garage? Never thought of that!

Aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh, perhaps you could have worded this a little differently. This is a "G" rated forum after all.