enigma-2

The 18's will give a smoother ride. I believe this is because the 18's have more sidewall, more tire less wleel. Little better mpg with the 18's as well, but not enough to base a decision on. Measurements between a 15" & 19" shows a 10% drop in mpg with the 19's. 19"s look better, 20's look even better, fills out the wheelwell. 19's will offer a better skidpad due to the extra width.

As an FYI, the blind spot glass came on the 2009 MKX, they switched over mid year. (I changed the glass on mine to get the bsm, never considered going to a complete mirror housing for a later year). Looks good however.

Is that a CH47. Were you air crew?

You instalked a 180° thermostat and the car is maintaining 192°? Shouldn't it be maintaining 180°?

Just curious. Does the seat fold manually after its released?

This is interesting, a Porsche that's painted in a special way so that it changes color as you drive. Wild!

Can be turned back on by a dealer.

Seat moves under spring pressure. Binding or broken spring. Is the seat reclinded?

Try placing the a/c in max position, see if there's any response.

You can also program your own codes (something easy to remember). Programming a Personal Entry Code 1. Enter the factory-set five-digit code. 2. Press 1·2 on the keypad within five seconds. 3. Enter your personal five-digit code. You must do this within five seconds of completing step 2. 4. Press 1·2 on the keypad to save personal code 1. The doors lock then unlock to confirm that programming was successful. To program additional personal entry codes, repeat steps 1 through 3, then for step 4: Press 3·4 to save personal code 2. Press 5·6 to save personal code 3. Press 7·8 to save personal code 4. Press 9·0 to save personal code 5. If your vehicle is fitted with MyFord Touch, you can also program the system with a personal entry code. (Seats, mirrors, etc.)

Why not talk with your service manager, see if they have ever looked into this? There are several other factors that need to take into consideration, seat belt lenghts & angles, side air bags, front air bags, electrical harness length. An inch it possibly two, shouldn't be a problem, four inches would definitely affect the above subsidiary functions.

Duplicate -pulled.

I second Brian's thinking. My advice would be to avoid all change shops, at all costs. A tranny shop is much more qualified to do this (and more professional). You don't want a kid who was serving burgers last week servicing your PTU.

As you had standing water in an enclosed, dark, warm space, you probably have mold growing inside the a/c housing. If I were you, I would pump sa can of foam into the housing to clean it out and kill any mold. It's easy and quick fix. You buy a can of foam made just for this purpose, insert it into the a/c drain under the car, and pump the foam into the housing. It will expand and fill all the tiny, little cavities and nitches. After its done, it turn into a liquid and drains back out. The product is called Lubegard. Best price is on Amazon. As for where the drain is located, I posted a pix from the service manual in a previous thread. The drain in located at item #4. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17975-ac-makes-noise-and-limited-air-flow-when-turning-left/?fromsearch=1 If you crawl under the car, it's just an open tube that sticks down a couple on inches. A blast of air should open it, but I would follow up with a can of Lubegard to kill any mold. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_146324934006617&key=4f95868279975442d20c58420425bb75&libId=io7gtuu90100b4bt000MAddjj46s4&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com%2Ftopic%2F8307-hissing-noise-when-ac-is-on-and-im-turning-left%2F%3Ffromsearch%3D1&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Faw%2Fd%2FB0007PHD0S%2Fref%3Dmp_s_a_1_1%3Fqid%3D1463008208%26sr%3D8-1%26pi%3DAC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65%26keywords%3DLubegard%2Bheater%2Bcore&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dsearch%26do%3Dsearch%26andor_type%3D%26sid%3Dee10eafc5081707828f3cb5ad5dc99f8%26search_app_filters%5Bforums%5D%5BsortKey%5D%3Ddate%26search_app_filters%5Bforums%5D%5BsortKey%5D%3Ddate%26search_app_filters%5Bforums%5D%5BsortDir%5D%3D0%26search_term%3DAc%2Bdrain%26search_app%3Dforums%26st%3D0&title=Hissing%20noise%20when%20AC%20is%20on%20and%20I%27m%20turning%20left%3F%20-%202008%20Edge%20%26%20MKX%20-%20Ford%20Edge%20Forum&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co...ard%20heater%20core&loAsUuid=io7gtvdt-f47067c4-016f-4538-ba53-0cbdcf8c2caa&rewrit=false Here's a Youtube video on how to do this http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_146324903428514&key=4f95868279975442d20c58420425bb75&libId=io7gmb8w0100b4bt000MAddjj46s4&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com%2Ftopic%2F8307-hissing-noise-when-ac-is-on-and-im-turning-left%2F%3Ffromsearch%3D1&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fm.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DBi22mdXj3wM&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dsearch%26do%3Dsearch%26andor_type%3D%26sid%3Dee10eafc5081707828f3cb5ad5dc99f8%26search_app_filters%5Bforums%5D%5BsortKey%5D%3Ddate%26search_app_filters%5Bforums%5D%5BsortKey%5D%3Ddate%26search_app_filters%5Bforums%5D%5BsortDir%5D%3D0%26search_term%3DAc%2Bdrain%26search_app%3Dforums%26st%3D0&title=Hissing%20noise%20when%20AC%20is%20on%20and%20I%27m%20turning%20left%3F%20-%202008%20Edge%20%26%20MKX%20-%20Ford%20Edge%20Forum&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fm.youtube.co...h%3Fv%3DBi22mdXj3wMi

I would verify that the battery connectors , or connections at the alternator, are not corroded, causing a weak charge to be delivered to the battery. One other possibility is the alternator is bad (I know you had it tested, but it's possible that it's 'overcharging', essentially cooking the battery).

How old is you battery?

Does sound like the battery shorted. Over time the lead positive plate will shed pieces of itself. This will form a layer of conductive material and if deep enough, cause a short between the various plates.

As fit1446 said. To remove the overhead consol, grab the consol at the rear (end towards the rear of the car), and pull down. If you need to remove the lamp assembly, open the sunglass compartment and use a small screwdriver to pop the tabs on the clear plastic lens assy. Once the back is released, the front slips out.

See if this company can do something for you. (Don't list edge, but possibly they have nevery been asked). http://www.extendmyseat.com/

I haven't hear of an update to Sync 3 yet. Looks to me that it's saying that it checked on July 2 and that you are running the current latest version.

This has come up before. Read this thread as he seemed to have found the way to reset the traffic fred. http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1152-traffic-on-navigation-page/

Candy. Jesus,where do you guys live, South Chicago?

I think the main problem with certain aftermarket filter, like the K&N, is the extra dirt the let in, causing the oil to get dirty sooner. Here's a good discussion on the subject (discussion links to actual aftermarket filter testing to ISO 5011 stds). http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3148386 One thing to keep in mind is, if installing a more porus filter was an easy way to more hp or mpg without any down sides, don't you think that Ford (or GM, or Toyota, or Chrysler, or ...) would have adopted it? K&N was developed for racing engines. They don't care about dirty oil as the tear down the engine and change to oil after every race, so it doesn't really matter. Far different matter with a domestic auto that has to last the life of the car.

If your blades are more than six months old, I'd clean the windshield really clean and put on new (quality) blades.

If your blades are more than six months old, I'd clean the windshield really clean and put on new (quality) blades.