enigma-2

"bearings may be damaged". This happened to my daughter's car (blew a head gasket and coolant leaked into the oil). The oil was a gray color and contained water but we just replaced the head gasket and she drove it for two more years until we sold it. $2000 to replace a water pump, sounds high. Do they have to pull the engine out and tear it completely down to replace? I had a water pump replaced on the wife's Sebring Convertible and it cost little over $600. (And that was at the local Chrysler dealer who's known to scalp labor charges). I believe I would talk with a local mechanic and ask his opinion.

Would something like this work? (Could use it in more than one car if needed). http://www.carid.com/sparco/ergo-series-seat-insert-black-mpn-01047kit872nr3l.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwt-G8BRDktsvwpPTn1PkBEiQA-MRsBSKYlIRbE54G3E6DuEoDDdZmIU29djWwTVNSmqEtce4aAgpP8P8HAQ Something else comes to mind, not the most stylish, but it might work.... what if you took a large towel and rolled it up, run a long bungee cord through it and positioned it to add padded support onto the front of the seat (bungee cord wraps around seat bottom, connects at back of seat).

You mean like these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_ss_i_0_7?k=oil+drain+pan&sprefix=oil+dra

If you use Ethanol gas (and most stations in this area have Ethanol in their gas), then it's no secret that Ethanol breaks down fairly quickly. In as little as 30 days in hot, humid weather. The alcohol starts to separate out and draw water vapor from the air into the gas. As the purified alcohol is burned in an engine, it burns faster than gas, and the cylinder head temperature goes up. In-fact, in small, air cooled equipment such as trimmers, chain saws, and the like, it can melt cylinder heads and burn holes in pistons. (In small engines, if you use Ethanol gas, you should only use mid-grade or premium as the extra octane will slow the burn of Ethanol and perhaps save an engine from failure). Ethanol Defense (and another product I've used longer, Sea Foam) will prevent the Ethanol from separating out. Doesn't take much, 1 oz per 10 gallons. (1 oz per 5 gallons if you intend to keep the gas for more than 30 days and up to a year). Bottle is marked to make it easier to measure. I usually put it in an empty 5 gal gas container and then take it to the station to get gas. (Don't use it in the car or add it to lawn mower, etc. That's too late as the gas may have already have started to break diwn. None of this stuff works on gas that's already started to break down). Haven't used it in the last year or so. I decided to find a local station that sells pure gas (no Ethanol). Hers a website that lists stations that sell gas without Ethanol: http://www.pure-gas.org/ If you have been using Ethanol gas and are now having problems with a lawn mower or gas trimmer, snow blower or whatever, try adding either Ethanol Shield or Sea Foam directly to your engine tank, run the equipment to get it in the carb, then shut it off and let it set. The stuff will disolve the gum and open the Jets (usually, sometimes you have to take it apart and throw it in the ultrasonic cleaner). I had to let a snowblower sit for a week before it cleared the jets. (That was with Sea Foam). If you live in an area that gets below freezing and are using gas with Ethanol, the gas in your cars tank probably has water on it. (Ethanol draws water to itself). Best to pour in a can of Heat at the start of winter to bring the water to the same specific gravity and burn it up in the engine. And in all cases, use with Ethanol Shield or Sea Foam if you use Ethanol gas (if there's any chance you are going to keep gas around for the lawn mowe or the like. Good for 2 cycle or 4 cycle.

Thanks, I use this product.

This may be unrelated, but has anyone here ever hooked up the USB-2 port on their Edge or MKX?

I found the ones in the 2016 mkx I had as a loaner, were no better than the ones in my 09. They really didn't go back far enough make me happy. The one's in Mt daughter's 2013 Escape are the same.

The adjustable headrests still don't change to angle to go back, tried them to see if worth switching. (Be great if the adjusted back to a true vertical angle, but alas .... ). But there is a fix for tamuggrad2013, my wife hates (with a capital H) the headrest angle. So it's a simple process to take them out and turn them around. You just push in on the adjuster to raise up to max height, but need a paper clip to release the stop on the other post to lift the headrests out of the retainers. On my 09 mkx, my wife's is turned around and mine is normal. Took time but I got used to it. (Common on all new cars, something safety related). Been discussed before here in the forums (do a search), and I seem to remember someine doing a video on YouTube. Guy put the shafts in a vice and bent them. If you don't have a vice, use a pipe and bend each side to the same angle.

From my own past experience, I found my creeks originated from rubber bushings on the torsion bars. (But I would imagine any rubber bushing could by responsible). Way I found mine, was to crawl partly under the front end and have the better half rock the car up and down. Used spray silicone between metal and rubber to silence. Had to repeat so should have used a good grease, but it does work. As your dealer can't help, wouldn't hesitate to take charge and put an end to it.

You can buy it new for $120 on ebay. Auction #112027920529

Doesn't sound right to me either. There's no electrical circuit required open the door, totally mechanical. Curious, why didn't you pull up on the door lock button and unlock the door? (The little button thingie that pops up and down to lock or unlock the door)? Second point is the shifter, even if it was defective, could not cause the battery to go dead while driving. (It's being continuously recharged). A broken alternator belt, a defective alternator or rectifier, those are the things that can cause the battery not to charge. Or perhaps a bad battery. But there's nothing in the shifter that can cause it. Even if the shifter shorted out the worst that would happen would be a blown fuse.

From what I've read, the plastics have only improved since 1996.

Can't say for certain in your 16 Edge but in my 09 MKX the display can be switched between north always on top (where the car may be going sideways), the Bird Eye's view (don't like) or car goes towards top and direction north changes (what your wanting). (Check page 482 in your owners manual.) Also like to have the turn-by-turn directions displayed as well. Nice to look down and check up on how far before the next turn. Nice to to be able to turn on where gas stations are and what prices are. Also, I'm a sucker for Starbucks and often turn on "show coffee shops" along route. I could never do things like these when I used a Garmin).

Which ever way you go, keep in mind that an aftermarket hitch will limit your trailer to 1,500 lb max (with 2.0 engine) or 2,000 lbs max (with 2.7 or 3.5 engines).

Plastic engines have been around since 1980 when they developed a 2.3 liter Pinto engine. It weighed 152 lbs (vs over 400 for cast iron). There was also an engine developed for racing and had several top 5 finishes, finished 3rd once. "Plastic parts included the engine block, cam cover, air intake trumpets, intake valve stems, piston skirts and wrist pins, connecting rods, oil scraper piston rings, tappets, valve spring retainers and timing gears." https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_automotive_engine Good article in Car and Driver on plastic engines of the future. http://blog.caranddriver.com/is-this-the-engine-of-the-future-in-depth-with-matti-holtzberg-and-his-composite-engine-block/ Article in Design News on plastic parts Ford replaced in the curent 3.5 and 3.7 V6's. http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=270929

These are the tires I'm currently running. Great tire, wears well, still fairy quiet 2/3's through its life. Don't expect to actually get 80k however.

Doesn't the fuel door lock when the car is locked on the 2016?

Ford advised at my last oil change that my tires are nearing their final miles. Checked Tirerack.Com for my car (2009 MKX, AWD) and the overall best choice (all over 9.0 for all ratings) was the Michelin Premium LTX @ $265/each. I believe that will will be the tire I will go with. (At least for now). Willing to pay more for better performance, smoothness and quiet.

What phone do you have?

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Try a dedicated local transmission shop. Probably get a better PTU flush anyway.

Why couldn't you just run a thin bead of clear silicone over the joint of the access cover on the underside of the mirror?

My 09 MKX brake booster wasn't covered either. Shop replaced it under extended warranty.

As WWWPerfA_ZNOW stated, look on tirerack.com, especially at the user ratings. Afterwards you can have the tires shipped to Discount Tire as they are an authorized dealer for TireRack. I did this with my local Ford/Lincoln dealer and they matched price + got $200 debit card back in mail from ford + $25 for using my Ford credit card!!!

Leaves should not be getting into the HVAC blower housing. Check your cabin air filter. Also check under the hood at the back, top of the engine compartment. This is where the HVAC air intake is located. Make certain that the exterior filter (grill?) is in place.