enigma-2

My 09 MKX has the 20" Bridgestone's. 2/3's through their life (avg 7/32" left) and still relitavely quiet and smooth.

I never seen any fluid on the garage floor, would never have known the seal was leaking. Like you said, there's only a small amount of fluid, so by just losing a little would make a big difference in the ability on the PTU to continue to function. Think the total cost to replace the seal was under $300 (but it was covered under the extended warranty). Just thinking outloud, but I can't help but wonder if this is the reason that some units are failing? Fluid leaks, what's left gets thick and loses lubrication properties and the unit fails. Those that are not leaking continue to run per spec. If so, watching for the seal leak becomes the most important aspect of routine maintenance.

Are there any aftermarket anti-theft, towing, remote start, etc, devices installed?

One my last oil change they advised me that my ptu seal was leaking. When I talked to the service agent, he stated that it's the loss of fluid (presumably through the leaking seal) that would cause failure of the ptu. As the fluid got lost, the remaining fluid would turn gummy and not lubricate properly.

See if it's turned on. Press the PHONE hard button. Select the Settings tab on the touchscreen Press Advanced. Select 911 Assist. Select the desired setting, "on" or "off".

Something I just remembered when I was talking with the service representative. Was discussing how the mechanic removed the fan assembly (tight squeeze) and he mentioned that on the 2016 Edge (may have been an Escape or a simular model, just don't remember) that to replace the fan assembly, they have to remove the entire front end! Grill, fenders, etc. He said it took them a full 8 hours labor to remove the fan assembly. I didn't ask but got thinking afterwards that it could cost between one and two thousand bucks to replace the fan assembly.

Started a couple of weeks ago. Intermittent at first, then constant over last week. Took it in yesterday and they suspected the fan assembly but went through the entire A/C system. They tested the pressures and found the high side was high, evacuated the system and refilled with proper amount. Ran several more tests and found the fans had failed. Replaced the fans and ran more tests. They also ran the multi-point inspection and washed the car. Total came to a little over $800 (was covered under extended warranty). Runs great again. For reference, here's some of the procedures they conducted: performed IDS road test, DCL display, monitor PIDS, performed KOEO self test, P0480, performed pinpoint test KN1, KN8, KN9.

With your luck the palm tree would have a disease and the island would be covered with Albatross poop. (Big grin)

One other possibility, have you played with the power lumbar in the seat? I find pumping it up changes the comfort of the seat.

If you were to set it to "S" mode but drive in "D" mode, wouldn't this be the same as being off?

One of the doors is open (or more likely, the door switch is sticking, making the car "think" the door is open). Safety feature, car won't start if it thinks the car is not locked This is a known problem, the fix has been discussed widely here in the forums. Involves spraying electrical contact cleaner onto the plastic arm to clear out the crap causing it to stick. Some reported it works, some couldn't get it to work. There are also YouTube videos showing how to fix. 1-Chirp: start signal received. 2-Chirps: Brake is being pressed or the hood is open. 3-Chirps: One of the vehicles doors are open. 4-Chirps: Tachometer not programmed - see dealer. 5-Chirps: The key is in the ignition. 6-Chirps: The Remote Start System is in "SERVICE/VALET" mode.

Press the "menu" button until "rbds" is displayed. Use the up or down arrows to toggle between on/off. Turn on and you should see the station info. To toggle between the station name and category, toggle "text" button. I pulled this from page 33 of the owners manual.

It's not unusual for dealerships to use high school kids for oil changes. Local told me they use them on some sort apprentice program as so few high school grads are willing to become auto mechanics.

Orrrrrrrrrrr, turn your Optimus Prime mode on your Android and prepare to battle the evil Decepticon iPhone throughout the universe.

Sitting on the patio drinking golden mararitias, eating cashews, enjoying talking with my wife over nothing, warm breeze blowing gently and not a care in the world. I lift my glass to all and wish you the same.

All else considered, tires rated for low rolling resistance will deliver better mpg.

I doubt that these are something you could consider, but maybe something like these would help. http://www.beddinginn.com/product/Super-Warm-And-Comfortable-Patch-Short-Plush-Material-Car-Seat-Cover-11052914.html?c=USD&gclid=CjwKEAjwoPG8BRCSi5uu6d6N5WcSJABHzD8Fd3jFGbnIcJ1wivhgsKQg1amoEiQsfFXAE29a6u5v5RoCJd_w_wcB

Two different types of products. If you look at the Material Safety Data Sheet for SeaFoam, it lists three ingredients: pale oil (mildly hydrotreated paraffinic oil), naptha (hexane) and IPA (isopropyl alcohol). It consists only of solvents - not chemicals with active components like the Techron product. SeaFoam will disolve gum if it's left to sit for a period. Its also good to prevent Ethanol from separating out of gas that sits for more than 30 days. If your looking to clean injectors, valves and the like, use Techron. Recommended by all automobile manufactures.

Have a look at these http://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/521/c3625-ford-edge-escape-explorer-fusion-oem-center-cap-5l241a096aa.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwoPG8BRCSi5uu6d6N5WcSJABHzD8FTa_A1gUN4gA_xGxBQSqBsaqw4BZOXA7pkppi8KiEzBoCdWvw_wcB

Makes sense. Looked like LEDs but probably were bulbs. Thanks.

They appeared to be OEM. The lights were uneven, left were lit on top (and outboard side), right were lit on bottom (and outboard side).

Was driving up to another city this afternoon to pickup the wife's convertible after having a new rear window installed, and was behind a newer (2014, 2015) Edge. Strangest brake lights I've ever seen. The one on the left (drivers) only the top and outside (like an inverted "L") LED's were lit. On the right side, only the lower and outside LEDS (like a reversed "L") were lit. Followed him for several blocks and every time he stepped on the brakes I was befundled as to what was going on. Anyway, exactly what are the brake lights supposed to look like? Was one light wired wrong internally, both, neither? (He never used his turn signals [perhaps they were not working] so I can't say as to what they looked like, nor were his tail lights on). .

Hi ErlAlx. Bet your getting anxious eh? What color did you pick and what options come with it?

Explorer is out. Might get a clue from looking at it. http://www.fleet.ford.com/edms/order-guides/?geography=NATL&brand=Ford&model=Explorer

My two cents. First make certain you have the latest operating system, curent one was released on June 27, 2026. Check you have latest release of Sync. Update if not and try again. Next I would go to settings, Advanced Calling, Activate WiFi Calling and make certain it's turned "off". Also turn off your WiFi service on the phone and have someone call you in the car. Lastly try a reload. Remove all bluetooth connections on the phone, then turn off and remove the phone battery for a few minutes. Remove your phone from Sync. Turn off the car, open the door, close door and then pair the cell phone. Have someone call.