enigma-2

Try this link https://www.etrailer.com/question-143692.html

Runs $2 to $9 / month. http://www.siriusxm.com/travellink/pricing?desktop=yes

This is probably not helpful, Ford states the system may malfunction if A foreign object (such as a bike rack or trailer) is attached to the front or rear of your vehicle or at another location close to the sensors. An overhanging object (such as a surfboard) is attached to the roof. The front bumper or side sensors are damaged or obstructed by a foreign object (such as a front bumper cover). A mini-spare tire is in use.

Have a look at these http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32412794431.html?productId=32412794431&productSubject=Rearview-turn-signal-Side-mirror-flash-for-Ford-EcoSport-2013-New-Kuga-2PCS-set&spm=2114.40010508.4.8.nK9v6m&tracelog=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail

"Smaller Revel system"? I get the difference between the quality of dvd's and Sirius, but missed your meaning on the smaller part.

Only works with the three types of 12 volt batterys.

I usually listen to CNN, FOX, MSNBC & HLN. And then there's Wille's Road House, 50's and 60's. And on rare occasions, the 40's. Can't stand Howard Stern, never listen to him. Complete jerk. Its a good service, but I agree, the price is too high.

Might I recommend you include the model number and asking price, and move this to the classified forum. Most people here will monitor what's being sold rather than look in the specific forums for items for sale. I would also include pictures of the face and back, and the reason for selling it. Good luck.

Sorry, I failed to make it clear. Voltage drop is not occurring over the short 6" connector to the mirror, but rather over the entire harness; from the source (the battery) to the load (the detector). Remember the harness is seveal feet in length, probably 20-30 ft. (guessing). In every electrical circuit, there is voltage drop. Also, other loads connected to the same circuit (the mirror) can influence the loss. If your really concerned, the Solar battery monitor would provide you with a clear picture of your charging system. I have this monitor (-7 version, forget the actual model designation). It's easy to use and does a quick and excellent job of telling you exactly what's going on. It will read out your battery's current state in voltage and CCA's and the state of the charging system during starting and running.

Voltage drop occurs for many different reasons, what else is on the circuit (not just the Escort) what is the wire size going to the detector (all the wiring involved, measured from the battety to the detector connection). 0.3 v is nothing

It would probably be a lot cheaper to just have it repaired. Here's an example of one shop that does it for around $150: https://circuitboardmedics.com/ford-instrument-cluster-repair/?sort=featured&page=1 Google ford instrument panel repair. You might get lucky and find someone local that performs this service. Consider talking to your local service manager and see if he knows of any lcoal service that he would recommend.

I just had mine replaced by the dealer and they are very quiet and no vib. Hard to beat Motorcraft even if you have to pay double.

Could be wrong, believe the letter I got only applied to lincoln's Clarion Navigation System. But I imagine that there should also be an update for your system as well. After all, the only real difference is a dvd vs. SD card.

Got a letter in the mail from Lincoln, informing me that there is a new map update that's just been released. $149 (with free shipping until 09/30/16). Woo woo! Anyway, was wondering if anyone has updated yet. Reason is, I was wondering if they had finally added a bypass near me that was built a few YEARS ago. Gets old, driving out in the corn fields. lol Anyway, if anyone does have the latest, wonder if you mind plugging in a road into your map and see if it now exits.

It's not really hard to do. Here's a link to an excellent write up on how to do it by another member. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 And here is a more official version http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=7820 (If you can't find the brush, look for a hummingbird feeder brush, works great).

Yes those is the factory code. If your first number is EITHER a 1 or a 2, press the 1/2 button. If the second is either a 3 or a 4, press the 3/4 button. Etc. A code of 164 is the same button pressed as 253. (I used three digits instead of five for simplicity).

Here is the procedure to remove the rear bumper cover for the MKX. (The Edge is similar). 1. Remove the scrivets from the rear bumper cover. 2. Remove the 10 screws (5 each side) from the rear splash shield. 3. Remove the rear bumper cover-to-body brace screw. 4. Disconnect the trailer hitch and parking aid system wiring harness, if equipped. 5. Disconnect the retainers from the rear bumper cover-to-body brace. 6. Remove the rear bumper cover. 7. Remove the bumper cover from the bumper cover bracket. Remove the bumper cover. 8. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Interesting conversation. Question. Wonder if it would be possible to use one of these wireless apps, get the perps VIN and take control of the car; start it up, open a window and crawl in, and drive away.

Basically they are there for triage, to write down what you are reporting and decide which tech to assign. They are also supposed to be part of after-sales, sales force. Push tires, wiper blades, recommend additional services (needed or unneeded). Some have a grasp of certain problems, but they're not techs by any means. If you have a particular question, ask him (or her) to contact the tech and ask them. Was in for A/C service this week and asked about best brake rotors and pads to use. Reps answer was we will put on OEM Motorcraft. Said I wold wanted better and asked to get the opinion of the tech. Then stood there and stared him down. He called up the tech and we will be talking in the future (also talking to a local Auto shop, likr to get different opinions). They don't like to take the techs away from their jobs as it's considered downtime and thier time is valuable.

Based on your description I would suspect three elements which could be related to both conditions. First (and foremost) is a faulty ignition switch. Should you experience another "non-shutoff" I would try this. After turning off and the car conines to run, remove the key, then turn the key back to the run position, then to off. If it then turns off, it's definitely the ignition switch. The second is that the wiring has developed either a short or an open. Possibly a corroded conbection. The third is the module that controls the ignition system, think it's the body control module.

If the radio didn't actually shut off when you opened the door (and you didn't notice it) it could be a door switch hanging up. I know if you use the remote start, even though the car shuts off after a period of time, the radio will not shut off until it's delay function is triggered. If it's the AC itself, it "might" be able to correct itself by doing a reset.

My 09 MKX weathermap stays on for as long as I leave it. What year/Sync version do you have? I assume your talking about Sirus Travel link.

Almost sound like the exhaust gas smell entering the cabin under hard acceleration complaint that so many others are writing about. Related the EcoBoost engine if I read it properly. Is it possible for the turbine to reduce cabin pressure at certain pressures?

As for the windshield washer spray nozzle, should be an easy fix. First remove the nozzle. Go in from the underside of the hood, release the hood noise blanket in the area of the nozzle (pull clips usually have to be pried out), then while holding the back of the nozzle with your hand "pull, twist and pull" the end of the hose. (Kind of reminds one of grenade training, eh?) If the hose is stubbern, may have to resort to "gently" using plyers on the hose to "persuade" it to remove. With the hose pulled off the nozzle, use plyers to pinch the two clips on the back of the nozzle to release it from the mounting hole in the hood. After you get it out, soak the nozzle in vinigar for a few hours to disolve the water scale blocking the opening. After its open, use a can of compressed air to blow out the Nozzle opening to clear it out. Next push the nozzle back into the hole in the hood (it will snap back in the hole), re-attach the hose and replace the hood noise blanket. Instead of cleaning, you could buy a new nozzle off Ebay for about $10. I would try cleaning first, usually works.

I'll try to respond to the nav problem. First thing I would do is to run the on-board diagnostics on the MyFordTouch system. Should tell you if the nav system is operational. To initiate, (Limited with Sony radio) set MFT to AM/FM mode, press and hold the eject button and hold the right arrow on the center wheel. Hold both buttons pressed for about 12 seconds. The screen will go black and enter the diagnostics mode. If the nav system is ok, problem might be a bad SD chip (it's outdated anyway).