enigma-2

Could there be corrosion on the connectors that is getting wiped when you remake the connection, and re-corroded in a short period?

In snow, my MKZ is great. On ice, ...... ahhh not so much. It's a heavy vehicle and stopping can be a real cardio thrill. But I'm glad I have AWD, even with the extra hardware that can fail.

Pulled this from the owners manual : "Trailer tow connector (vehicles equipped with a Class II trailer tow/prep package) The trailer tow connector is located under the rear bumper, on the drivers side of the vehicle." Based on this, it would seem that the connector is only part of the Class II option (furnished on the 3.5L engines) and not part of a factory Class I system (used on the 2.0 & 3.7L engines). The manual also states "Do not splice into the vehicle lamp wiring for trailer lamps. Your vehicle uses an advanced electronic module to control and monitor your vehicle lamps. Splicing into the wiring or attaching wiring to the vehicle bulb may DISABLE the rear vehicle lamps or cause them not to function properly. Your lamp outage feature may also be disabled or provide incorrect information." so the use of a factory harness would seem to be manditory.

Could try running a self test on the climate control module. Procedure was explained in the post: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15071-climate-control-problem/

That would seem to rule out the remote, is it OEM or a Chinese copy.

1st listing? (Not certain). http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2007&m=Ford&mo=Edge&initSearch=1&keyword=Moonroof#Search

Ok. Here's a link to someone who had the same problem. Found that the surfaces of the internal switch contacts were flaking off, falling on the circuitry and triggering the hatch. (How old is your remote)? http://www.fordescape.org/forum/showthread.php?t=674

Reported before. We're you in the cargo area after returning home? (May have sensed an item blocking the close and reopened, un-noticed by you). http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7569-phantom-power-liftgate-opens-by-itself/

Definitely use OEM motor mounts. Used a NAPA mount on a ford one time, thought I was driving a WWII army truck afterwards. Noisy, rock hard, vibrations, nothing like the original. Popped it off and put on a Motorcraft, instantly turned quiet and smooth. Learned my lesson.

If you only need to blank the lights out on rare occasions .... put duct tape over them. Camouflage duct tape of course. lol

The company that makes kits to extend the rails for car seating states they don't make rails for the Edge. You would also run into problems with seat beats, air bag safety (sitting back too far would throw off the timing of when and how much force was exerted during deployment). About the only thing you can do is tilt the seat.

Been discussed before. Here's a previous thread on it. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20930-except-for-the-bottom-seat-this-is-a-near-perfect-car/?fromsearch=1

I don't believe that there is a reset button (of sorts). You might try an electrical reset. Pull the owner's manual out & look up fuse box chart to identify the one(s) that affect your radio/cd changer. Turn the key to ACC setting & turn on radio. Open the fuse box & pull all relevant fuses. Radio should quit. Then turn the key off & then reinsert the fuses. Turn the key back to ACC and turn on the radio. If this works, you should then be able to eject your cds. If this doesn't work, the only other option I know of, is to remove the radio and remove the top cover (one screw I believe). You can then wiggle the cds to get them back on position. I believe what hapens is, when the the battery dies, the changer starts shuffling through discs and causes one disc to pop out of it's slot; and jam inside the unit. Causes a "no disc" error when trying to play a cd and "load error" when trying to eject/insert a disc.

It's a 2016 right? Non-serviceable LED lamp. Replaced an an entire assembly I believe.

What year, motor do you have (just wondering).

I had my local dealer replace to fluid by opening the fill hole and sucking out the old oil. They charged me somewhere around $80 for it. I asked if it was common for these units to fail, and they told me that they had replaced some PTU's, but not many. They also told me that they felt the way the fail was, the seal begins to leak, and as the fluid leaks out, the remaining oil gets thick and gummy, not providing the needed lubrication. So the comment you were given about checking for leaks is probably valid. If your local dealer does not want to perform the fluid change, try any transmission shop. They already have the necessary pumping equipment and are familiar with the process. All they need to know is the location of the fill plug. Insist on their using Motorcraft fluids to make certain your getting the right stuff.

You just push the harness wires into specific locations the back of the mirrors wiring connector, and use the two wire ties provided to anchor the harness to the mirror. (With microphone): (+) is pin #1, blue with orange stripe, (-) is pin #10. Wire color is black. Pos is on the accessory delay circuit, fuse #41. When looking a face of connector with release tab down, pin 1 is lower left, pin 10 is upper right. (Reverse of looking at back of connector). Without microphone: (+) is pin #1 (blue with orange stripe, (-) is pin #2 (without lighted sunvisors) or pin #3 (with lighted visors). Connector has 7 wires and is numbered 1-7 starting from left when viewed face on and release tab is on bottom. Ford Edge and Lincoln MKX use .080" taps for 2007-2009 and .050" for 2010+. If your mounting something other than a radar detector, you could either modify an existing harness with a different connector or make your own (not hard, two wires & a connector). You could also contact Mirror Tap and see if they would be willing to make you a special harness (perhaps if you furnished the correct connector). Need to use a stiff wire or solder wires to a pin of the right diameter to be able to push into connector next to existing wires.

Had a business associate who used a steering wheel lock on his old beater. He had a call to make, returned to the office and about a half hour later went back out to his car for something. Car gone. Cops told him the bad guys simply use a hand-held bolt cutter to cut a small slice out of the steering wheel and slip off the lock. Takes only a few seconds. Well known way of stealing cars in S. Calif. You can buy universal wheel lock keys on Ebay (what the garages use when you can't find your key and they are trying to sell you a new set of tires. Very common). If they your wheels, they'll get them.

Just curious, why don't you consider just using a Mirror Tap? Much easier to install, inexpensive and powers on with the ignition, has the std delay and car off until doir open. You can wire in one minute.

Ever think of using a transmission sealer? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079JWMME/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

If it seems speed dependant, it could also be a tire that broke a cord.

Go down to your dealer and ask if you can try the SD card in one of their used cars. If it works, you have a ACM faiure. If not, the card got zapped and needs to be replaced.

Heh, just wait for the 2019 model when Samantha calls you on your (linked) cell phone in the middle of the night and reminds you that the FOB is still in the car and you don't remove it in three minutes, she's going to sound the panic alarm ten times an hour for the rest of the night. (Ok, it's getting late and I need some coffee).

I read it was a hardware mod.

Oh I'm not arguing the point, in fact I fully agree. I wish they would. I just don't see it happening. Selling map updates is a good source of revenue. Remember they don't just sell the car once you know.