enigma-2

Tell your old shop to by pair of 14-1/4 & 15-1/2 mm sockets. Made to fit enlarged nuts. ~Enlarged nuts are a fact of life~ .

No joy over new site

Nope, not there. I'm using the android version.

Ever get around to fixing this? When I origionally read it, it guessed it was a dirty/corroded lock mechanism that was causing too much resistance for the actuators. ...? If you still haven't done anything, I'd try spraying the latch mechanism with brake clean. Or is it break clean? (You still kicking?)

Sounds like the car is recieving a lock button signal. Most likely there's another stray signal nearby that's triggering it. Signal close to the frequency of your existing remotes. Try reprogramming your remotes to see if that stops it.

Hate these changes. New and improved is not always better.

Don't care what we call you,eh? Ok, from now on we'll call you "he who walks under squatting Buffalo".

Also check the grounds on the sensors. Believe someone else found that corrosion caused the sensor array to fail resulting in no sensor detection.

Yea, I'm a newbie as well. TEN YEARS and I'm a newbie with one year! Thousands of threads and I'm a newbie. I'm pissed!!!!!

While reading through this thread, the thought raced through my tiny brainpan that I should be sarcastic and post a picture of my Sync-1 screen. grunt, grunt, grunt Becoming serious, I really don't miss any of the later features of the later versions. (Especially Sync-2.) For me, I really only use Sync for •phone calls, •maps and driving instructions, •gas prices or •restaurants along the route, •weather maps (infrequent), •traffic conditions (infrequent) and •listening to CNN, MS-NBC or FOX NEWS. Some 60's and 50's music, Beatles channel (these all get old fairly quickly), Road Dog Trucking, Willie's Roadhouse, and especially the comedy channels. I don't use verbal instructions (probably the only ones I remember are "phone" & "call home" or similar.) For me it's actually easier to press a few buttons to set the location or adjust the audio level or change stations. Can do it without looking. (I'm not a fan of having buttons on a video screen.) OK, I feel unburdened. Exit, stage left.

Can it be related to the lumousity of the backup light brightness?

Excellent write up. Very informative. I would like to add some specifics for reference that eutectic solder (Sn-Pb, solder with lead) melts and flows at a temperature of 340℃, (644°F) whereas lead-free solder (Sn-0.7Cu) melts and flows at around 380℃ (716°F). Something to check for when purchasing a soldering iron. This is close to the maximum temperature for soldering. Also some heat sensitive components could be damaged if subjected to these high temperatures. Not to mention that at these temperatures, soldering iron tips wear out fairly quickly. (I only use lead solder (40%) or silver solder for repairs.)

You have a leak. Take it to a "good" mechanic (I prefer my local Ford dealer, but it costs more), and have him smoke to vapor lines. Only way to pin it down is with a smoke machine.

Pulled this off another forum. Yes an exhaust leak within 24 inches after the downstream O2 sensors can trigger P0420 and P0430 codes. A flex joint in the exhaust system sometimes only leaks when the power train is under load as the engine twists on it's mounts. May be worth checking out..

A leaking vacuum hose can cause this. Had exactly the same thing. Smell of gas in garage, nothing on floor. Happened after fill up, never overfilled. Eventually the hose set a CEL. Ford garage said the hose was down behind the back of the engine (facing cabin). Had to pull manifold to get to it. Had extended warranty which covered cost. Think they said it would have been around $300 (mostly labor), but that was years ago.

Think I read where it was related to something in the planetary gear assembly. Bearing or something. If so, could be a good reason why they replace the xmission rather than tear it down. Let us know what they find.

Hi UnholyDjMiku, Did you ever replace your LED high brake lamp assy?

Glad you found the fuses popped. Concerning the frozen rear washer, I had that hapoen to me right after I bought the car. Appeariently the dealer in his wondrous wisdom, filed the washer bottle with tap water. The front thawed from engine heat, but the rear didn't due to the long run of hose inside the ceiling. Finally got it to thaw when I got the cabin hot enough to warm the hose. (Also sprayed the rear nozzle with ice melt).

Does the door open lamp illuminate when the car is running and you open a door? If it doesn't illuminate, I'd suspect one of the switches located in the door latch is corroded and the warning indicator is (or was made) defective. <edit> BTW, did you check the hatchback switch? With car running, open the hatch and see if you get a warning lamp on the instrument panel.

Definitely send it back for the core refund. Fixing the old unit involves pouring more money into it and then it sits on a shelf for .... years? Your tying up $$ and still ending up with a possibility a unit that doesn't fit a future engine.

Beed discussed here at length. Personally I feel Ford would have spec'ed a lower temp thermostat if it helped performance, emissions or milage. It's spec'ed at 190° for a reason. Anyway:

Probably. But they ticket here in Indiana for dark tint.

Nice, we can't do it here in Indiana, 15% is illegal.

The car smartkey transmitter's signal is strong enough to go through the home walls, especially if it was left near an outside wall. The signal gets picked it up by the relay receiver outside the home. His relay receiver then transmits the code to the other crook who stands near the car drivers window and uses the recieved code to unlock the door and then start the car. It's called a "relay station attack". Some modern cars have methods to prevent this, but older cars are still susceptible.

Sorry to hear that. By the looks of it, I may be a candidate for this someday. VA just sent me in for a MRI. Result was I'm suffering from old age. Hope you're getting along ok, know it's difficult.