enigma-2

The indicator is more accurate the longer you leave it go. Resetting only at each full fill up will give you a more realistic value.

If is an AWD it could be the PTU leaking either gear lube or trans fluid (hitting hot exhaust).

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/9106-cylinder-numbering/

Have you changed the plugs yet? (Old plugs with large gaps blowing out under pressure ). http://www.myautorepairadvice.com/p0301.html

500+gigabytes????? (1/2 terabyte?) Was this a mistype? Even a half gigabyte would be huge for a car sync system.

Did you remember to mark the tires so they go on the same sides? They're directional.)

I bought a set of Bridgestone Dueler HL ecopia's at my local Ford/Lincoln dealer. (Paid Tirerack.Com prices and got $140 rebate). Was taking my wife to work couple of days ago and the low tire warning came on. After dropping her off, I drove the the dealer and the took me right in. Fifteen minutes later the car was done, the tires were only 3 psi low (cold weather) and they told me that it was due to the TPS being too sensitive; that they had been trained when warm and triggered in the cold. Said they have seen this many times. Got to enjoy a cup of Starbucks while waiting ?

If your driving a 2007 AWD and getting 21 mpg, your doing great.

I have a MKX-AWD and had to take wifiepo to work yesterday because of the storm that came through. Could feel the AWD pulling in the deep stuff, no slip at all. As you line in N Ky, you really don't see all that much deep stuff, I'd recommend the FWD. The Vista roof is nice on most days, open it all the way and makes you feel free. (Wife has a Sebring Convertible and that's real freedom, but the BAMR is a nice feature). I like the THX speakers and premium sound system. Also use the navigation almost every time I drive (don't need it, just like to see it keep track of where I'm at). Also being able to look up gas prices and restaurants has come in handy. Never used to theater guide yet. Normally listen to Sirus while driving. Convenient to turn on CNN or FOX news and keep up with current events. Don't have a heated steering wheel in mine, wish I did. (Don't know which package it comes with, but would give serious consideration to it). Also don't have remote start, but would also think twice about passing on it. Have thought several times about having it installed, but at $600 seems a bit much just to have a warm car in the winter. Find the 3.5 L warms very quicky when's it's above or around 32°. Heated steering and remote start really comes into its own when around 10° above. Have you also considered the Lincoln MKX?

First it depends as to whether you are driving a FWD or AWD. I have a 2009 MKX, AWD, 3.5 L engine and 20" tires. In the city (& rural) I see mid 15's to 19's depending on how much stop and go. Highway I have seen as high as 24. One (big) trick to better milage is, always keep to rpm's under 2000; especially when accelerating. Prolonged periods of idling lowers mpg as well.

What made me think of this, I had a Chevetted (during the gas crisis back in the 70's) and had a coating put on (commercial shop). Was nice, rain beaded and stayed cleaner longer. If I remember correctly, it had to be redone ever few years. They removed the old coating with special chemicals.

May have been put on by a previous owner. You know, "the thicker, the better". Lol.

Sounds a like like a polymer coating simular to this: http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-glass-coating.html

May be covered under your comprehensive policy. Been happening for some time now, but not really all that common. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14111-2011-sel-rear-window-shatteredexploded/ http://www.fordproblems.com/trends/exploding-windows/ Buy a replacment for around $250 https://www.amazon.com/2007-2014-Ford-Window-Glass-Heated/dp/B00YW6U0F8

Like David said, depends on how much they're asking. I would assume that you will need to put $4000-5000 in the car over the next few years, so figure that in as a possibility.

I would try isolating by disconnecting both devices, run the car and check again.

For cars equipped with push button start, thieves using a special electronic device can pickup your IA signal, record it and use it to unlock the door, start the engine and drive away in SECONDS. Check out the video shown on NBC News today. (Note that the device does not work on cars that start with a key and use a fob). http://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/mystery-device-could-let-thieves-get-your-car-seconds-n693036 More information as to how this works: http://jalopnik.com/5736774/how-hackers-can-use-smart-keys-to-steal-cars Basically one person gets within 8 meters of the person who owns the car (carrying the IA) and uses a special receiver to pickup the code it's transmitting. This receiver then re-transmits the IA code to a second person who receives the code and is standing next to the car. (They do not need to be close to each other). The small unit he's carrying then re-transmits the IA code to the car, and the car thinks it's the original IA fob, allowing the door to open and the car to start. Its already in use.

I use Weathertech. However, with any mat, stuff WILL slide around. I use two nets to hold stuff (groceries, etc.) and that helps considerably.

I've found that in heavy rain I usually travel a lot slower. Under these conditions, turning on the fog lamps will help identify the Edge of the roadway and partly make up for the difficulty in seeing. There are some nights where the seeing conditions makes it appear that you don have any headlights at all. I remember reading where the AMA tested car headlights and reported that 80% were considered unacceptable. Also read where several people reported that their HIDs gave poorer performance in rain than there Halogen bulbs because the intense beam reflected off the rain more and back to their eyes. Several stated they preferred the yellow Halogen color to the bright white of the HID in heavy rain. (I've driven with HID, but never in heavy rain, so can't state any opinion on this.)

The part appears to be part of the keypad assembly. I didn't find it listed separately. As a new keypad is ~$100 it may be worth popping off the door panel and retreaving the part. http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2010&m=Ford&mo=Edge#Search

Could always change over to Sync 3 in your 2013. Little expensive, $2k ($3k with navigation & Sirus) but it's an easy swap with the kit. http://www.oemautopartsco.com/collections/all/products/4-sync-to-8-sync-3-custom-touchscreen-upgrade?variant=30263836423

I'm not well versed in this, but it was my understanding that it wasn't the injectors that were the problem. Rather it was the back side of the valves.

Duplicate

Here's a webpage that discusses this, look under "electrostatic methods" about 1/3 of the way down. http://m.contractingbusiness.com/iaq-amp-ventilation/examination-electrostaticelectronicfilter-upgrades An electrostatic filter generates an electrostatic charge because if special threads woven into the filter. Instead of buying the special chemicals to recharge the filter (personally I feel they are cheap considering that a kit should last for years) you could try your Simple Green and follow with something like "end dust" or simular to make the the filter more effective. (Or for a trial, try spraying just 1/2 of the filter and check it after a couple of weeks to see it there is any difference.) There are also several products on the market that are designed for home furnace filters, that will work as well.

This site has good information on cabin air filters. Recommends the K&N as beine the best, but also recommends the recharge kit. http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/your-lungs-will-thank-you-the-cabin-air-filter-cheat-sheet.html/?a=viewall