enigma-2

When I get myself into some adventure in mechanics where I have no idea where I'm going, I've found that its a good idea to stop and take pictures at every step of disassembly. After all, pix are free with modern cell phones, and you can always erase when done. (But when trying to remember which way the dookie hooked into the Frédéric, pictures are gold. Take lots of pictures).

Speaking only about the actual headlight assembly, I'd say yes. I looked on Ebay at a headlight assembly that fits 2015-2018 Ford Edge Sport. Under fitment it states that it fits the SE, SEL, SPORT & TITANIUM trim packages. Here's the comparison between the two. (Mind you, one's halogen and one's high intensity). SPORT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255741588436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=GWkHt6bWTa2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY SEL: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175271511639?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=l9EvB50oTA6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY However, if you were talking about the trim pieces that surround the headlight assemblies, i didn't look this up.

Left front, speed sensor or reluctor ring. The sensor reading from one wheel (the left front wheel in this case), is differing from that of the other three wheels beyond a predefined limit while the vehicle is travelling in a straight line. Sets these codes. I'd lean towards a wiring problem as it happens when in a left turn (suspension geometry may be pulling on the sensor wiring, causing it to open or short).

There an easy way to disable start/stop. LET THE CAR DO IT AUTOMATICALLY. Basically, turn on the lights with the car off and run the battety down. After a couple of start cycles with a weak battety, the BCM will detect a weak battery and disable the auto start/stop. It will stay disabled until you run the battety reset procedure. (Or could substitute a weak battery for 2-3 start cycles, let the BCM recognize a weak battety then put the good one back in. Here's a good video on the procedure by a top Ford tech. (Probably the best on YouTube. Subscribe. Great videos).

Kind of sounds like a ABS sensor is dropping out at lower speeds. As you have already changed the sensors on all four wheels, did you check the tone ring on your front wheels? (Front because it only happens when turning). Check for cracks, broke teeth and some other physical damage. Also look to see how much brake dust has accumulated on the ring. Possibly the ring distorts when a left turn has initiated? One other possibility is corrosion on the speed sensor connector(s). Making a weak signal.

This is how the factory installed my 7-pin on my 2009 MKX.

Kind of looks like an APIM failure. First check to see if there are any codes stored. Then I'd try a camera reset. 1. Disconnect the (+) terminal on your battery. 2. Turn the headlights on to drain the leftover energy in the cars electrical system. 3. Reconnect the battery. If this doesn't work, try going to ford.com/support/#/categories and check to see if there is an APIM update for your car. If there is, follow the instructions at the site to upgrade with the latest software. If these fail, may need to replace the APIM.

Thought NTK was the OE supplier in 09?

I spoke too soon. There's a seller on Ebay that has a kit that reportedly fits a 2013 Ford Edge Sport power steering pump. Sells for $25 (US). Ships worldwide. Free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323624669321?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nunTiyyQTLq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here in the states Amazon sells an aftermarket unit for $150 (US). (Didn't check the UK site). Re: Power Steering Pump For Ford Edge V6 & Lincoln MKX 2011 2012 2013 2014 - BuyAutoParts 86-03127AN New https://a.co/d/5Ur6lcs Motorcraft price is around $370 US. Checked for pump rebuild kits, they run around $20 (US), but nothing for 2013 Ford Edge.

Try pressing the AUX button then select an audio source: SAT1, SAT2 or SAT3. When you select one if these, say SAT1, it allows you to pick 5 channels and assign each one to one of the 5 push button keys. Pressing SAT2 allow you to assign 5 different channels to these same keys. Same for SAT3. As you currently don't have a SirusXM subscription, you will probably be only able to receive their preview channel.

Think @lildisco may have hit the point. @Perblue, are you driving short trips in your daily drive?

Ever check your charging voltage? I'd begin to suspect a loose or corroded connection somewhere in the charging system. (Grounds have been notorious for low charge rates).

I was told that the rears are not covered under PremiumCARE. (Fronts are however). Rear shocks are designed to wear out and that isn't covered. Think I spent somewhere around $150-$200 at dealer.

I'd be concerned about how much software programming changes you'd have to do to the TCM when introducing a different transmission. Where would you even get the necessary information?

Basically there's four things that can cause the brake pedal to go to the floor. 1. Air in the Brake Lines 2. Brake Fluid Leaking 3. Brake Booster Is Failing or Is Bad, and Master Cylinder Is Going Bad As you have addressed all of these (I assume you would have noticed a leak), I'd center in on bleeding the abs module. https://rxmechanic.com/how-to-bleed-abs-module-without-scan-tool/

I've seen where people used a lay-flat 2x4's with longer bolts. Raised it 1-1/2". Or kits designed specifically to raise a seat 0.25" to 1.5" https://a.co/d/6zznPYl If you need 2-3", this may work. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=750/mode=prod/prd750.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwy5maBhDdARIsAMxrkw26vP9Pjh7JVbf0PRbm7QgQDfKZ8wD1k5YgwT5nh8myEPIJcIGYG1kaAltREALw_wcB Also, to get 4", you could consider an adult booster seat. (Drop it in and .... done). https://a.co/d/jc8KHV4 If the seat belt is tight with a raised seat, you can get 6" seat belt extention from your Ford dealer. Free, just have to ask. (Made for larger sized people who have trouble with fitting into a standard seat belt). Make certain you ask (at parts counter) for a front seat adaptor as there's a difference between the front belt connectors and the rear seats.

If your certain that pressures are good and the clutch is not engaging you need to check the electrical part of the system. Start by removing the plug at the compressor and testing the voltage between the leads with the engine running. Expect 0-volts with the A/C off and ~14-Volts with the A/C on. If you see voltage, the clutch is getting signal to turn on and its failure to do so makes it suspect. (Try some impact engineering to see if it's sticking.) If you don't see voltage and your certain the fuses are good, suspect the low or high pressure switches. (These are designed to keep the compressor from running if the pressures are out of tolerance). Take a paper clip or jumper and jump the leads of each switch separately. If a switch is bad, jumping across it should allow the compressor to start. BTW, are you getting any codes? Something like P1461/P1469? Edit: another method is to run a jumped directly from the battery to the clutch terminals. If it engages, fuses, relays and high/ low pressure switches are next in line. If their good, the A/C switch in the cabin.

Without tearing in to it, we can only guess a to the cause. I'd speculate that the harness and connector is OK as the other side works fine. Therefore, id guess that the most likely cause is a bad solder joint on the circuit board inside the light itself.

The tranny is custom to the engine and model. Doubt you would find any aftermarket unit that would work. What's wrong with yours? Used would run $1,500+labor, rebuilt probably $2,500+labor, new probably $5-6,000. Tranny isn't all that bad in my opinion, slow down shifts but reliable (if fluid is changed on a regular basis; 30k).

Why do you think you 3.5L is shot? From the accident last year or something else?

Only automatic settings to turn on heated seats in a Ford is on remote start (although Chrysler does have an automatic setting). If it's always turning on, on one particular setting (such as high), then id suspect that the switch is malfunctioning (heated seats or conditioned seats) or module (conditioned seats). If she has conditioned seats, check for codes.

You used grease rated at 4,500°. Was that Fahrenheit or Celsius? Ahhhh, its synthetic. Whap, (slapping forehead) of couse. lol

Wheel bearings can cause grinding. Wife's Sebring Convertible had a bearing that grew louder over time. Dull, grinding. Local Chrysler dealer replaced with aftermarket and it only lasted two years before needing replacement. When I took it back for replacment, I insisted on Mopar bearing. They argued with me. Finally told them if they wouldn't use Mopar I'll go somewhere else. So they agreed. But I made them put on work order that I was to be allowed to see the replacement bearing before assembly. Again they argued. And again I made them agree (or lose the job). (NAPA parts have a better markup and profit). So far the Mopar bearing has lasted 5 years without problems. If you replace the wheel bearing, use Motorcraft.

Here's another option BestRefitCar 2021 SYNC 3 Upgrade Kit, Fits for 2011 Ford Edge, SYNC 2 to SYNC3.4 MyFord Touch (MFT) Support Carplay,Including 8 Inch Screen, APIM Module, na3.4119, For Ford https://a.co/d/9en8sEM