enigma-2

I believe that the cause 'could be' some "mechanics" are using SAE sockets in place of Metric. (Loose fit). No real evidence but I'm guilty of it myself and these nuts are unusually susceptible to a loose fitting tool. And none of us wants to damage our nuts when using our tools ..... :-/

?2x on Rock Auto. Have you checked out https://www.ssg.asia/

Anything loose in the spare wheel well or side storage areas? I used to carry my tow hitch bar in the side well. Clunking drove me crazy until I strapped it down. What were the recalls for? Clunking noise in the rear is usually related to worn rear stabilizer bar links or bushings. This will be heard when going over bumps. A metallic clunk could be worn strut bushings. If it chunks when accelerating is usually a failure in the rear differential.

Apparently the link I posted only works with the mobile version browser (still works for me, I'm using a cell phone). Looks like I'll need to switch to the regular browser before copying a link. Good to know.

You will need at least one admin key to make any changes or clear your Mykey. Lacking a second key with administrator privileges you'll need to purchase a new one from your dealer. The cost should be covered by the comprehensive coverage of your auto insurance policy.

Recall ID: 22T022 Continental Tire the Americas, LLC (Continental Tire) is recalling certain 4x4 Contact, size 255/55R19 111V XL, PureContact LS, size 215/60R16 95V, and TerrainContact H/T, size 255/55R20 107H tires. The tires may have been overcured during manufacturing. Overcured tires may develop a break in the sidewall, resulting in sudden air loss or experience tread separation, increasing the risk of a crash. Continental Tire will replace the tires, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed January 12, 2023. Owners may contact Continental Tire's customer service at 1-888-799-2168.

These work?

Its embedded into the SJB. You can't change or modify it. What do you expect to gain with LEDs? Standard filament bulbs are bright enough and last forever. Think I've only changed one turn signal bulb since I owned my 09 MKX. Plus their much more expensive. BTW, you can buy turn signal LEDs with a resistor built in, if that's any consolation. For example: https://a.co/d/1JEPPKQ

Probably not. The positioning is both controlled and synced by the actuator. In gen 1 cars it's caused by gear teeth getting stripped. In gen 2 cars, the actuators were redesigned with beefier gears but the cheapened the wipers traces and thus then became to point of failure. The when the actuators fail, they "hunt" the determine where the end point is, failing to find it, they shut off until the following start cycle. Sometimes resetting the actuator allows it to break the hunting cycle by repositioning by wiping full travel which allows it to relearn each end position. In both cases, the actuators were designed poorly. Here's an excellent video which gives a run through of the actuators and how they work and fail.

Been there, you have my sympathies. Hope the update works. PS update the phone as well.

Known problem, see if this site helps https://www.tuneskit.com/fix-ios/iphone-keeps-disconnecting-from-bluetooth.html

I believe that the actuator on drivers side is down near the gas pedal. But before you consider changing it, try resetting it. I think this will work on your 2015, • Simutaneously hold down both the climate control power button and defrost button at the same time. Hold it for 5 seconds. • Release the climate control power button and defrost button. • Press the climate control power button alone, hold for a few seconds. This should fix the actuator, but if not, try one other thing. Reach up and unplug the actuator. Leave it unplugged for a few seconds then plug it back in. (If I remember correctly, the actuator has a blue connector).

You can pry up the sill. Watch to see if any clips come out when the sill tabs come out of the slots. The bulb is a single LED (or could be multiple LEDs in your 2017. In my 2009 its one bulb wired into harness that plugs into the illuminated sill plate). It's possible the LED had failed, or it could be a wiring connection (corrosion) or associated circuitry. Once the sill plate is removed, using a multimeter or 12 volt test light, check to see if the required 12 volts are being supplied to the sills connection. If there's no power you'll need to troubleshoot the wiring to see where the power stops. (A schematic would be helpful, just ask here). And check all fuses related to interior lighting. Your looking for a specific circuit that's always powered (that is, when the car is turned off). If there is power, the LED is probably defective and you need to replace it. Probably will need to be soldered into the circuit. if your not prepared to replace the LED yourself, take the assembly to a local electronics repair shop. (Try Walmart or a cellphone shop if you can't find a radio repair shop). LEDs are cheap, probably a couple of dollars and labor shouldn't be more than 1/2 hour.

LOL, I hear ya. ?

Get er done ... yet? How long they take?

If its leaking, first check for plugged drain tubes. Second, consider applying a verrrry thin bead of clear, silicone caulk around the perimeter. Think the part number for the seal is 7T4Z-7850036-A and costs $200 through Levittown Ford. I can't imagine any scenario where this seal can't be replaced without dropping the headliner and pulling both window glasses.

They ARE working ok for me as well.

UCheck for codes P0442 & P0455. Below is an easy way to test for a stuck purge valve. If you only experiencing lower mpg, and the codes don't verify a purge valve, suspect a dirty mass airflow sensor. Easy fix is to just pull off the intake hose and spray with special cleaner.

Simple methods is to squirt in the 7W140 until is starts to overflow and run out. A good choice is Valvoline 75W140. Great oil and comes in a squeeze pouch, makes it easy to refill the PTU in tight places. (This is for a case of four quarts, but only one is needed for a drain/fill). https://a.co/d/e9M7xgw

Either the rear differential or rear wheel bearing. Both create a roaring noise on acceleration, but the differential will also create a roaring under additional load. The differential could be failing if its leaking, running low on lubrication, or you drove through deep water at some point, allowing water to enter the axle, causing lubrication failure. Another possibility is the car was subjected to a towing overload at some point. One method to isolate between the two, would be to lift the rear end and shake to rear wheels. Also rotate the tires while listening to the bearings. An old mechanics trick is to use a long, wood handle (plastic works as well), the slot end on the area of the bearing with your ear on the handle end. Listen for grinding. In either case, something is wearing out in the rear. Have you ever changed the rear differential fluid? Best to do this every 60,000 miles or any time the car has been driven through deep water (level over the rear axle). It's in the cars maintenance manual (at least in mine for my MKX).

It's entirely possible that a fastener has loosened allowing slack to occur in the mechanism. If so, the sooner you correct, the better the chance you avoid real damage (where very expensive parts need to be replaced). It would involve removing the seat (4 bolts, disconnect wiring connector) and examine the drive mechanism. I would suspect a worn gear where the motor drives the seat.

Couldn't agree more. I've never had good luck with aftermarket suspension parts. They work but there's always a growing, or grinding or roar. Never been happy with anything except OEM.

Up to you. Here's what one laboratory thinks about replacing everything three years: GroupAuto Member Directory New research shows that xenon HIDs should be replaced every 3 years FacebookTwitterPrintEmail 25 Feb 2019 Category: Articles, Press Releases, Product News New research shows that xenon HIDs should be replaced every 3 years says RING Garages can help improve driver safety and boost profits this MOT season by advising drivers to replace their xenon HID headlamps if they are over three years old, research from Ring – the vehicle lighting specialists – suggests. Ring’s findings show that while xenon HID headlamps may still illuminate and appear white, after three years the light output will have dropped significantly – potentially below legal limits. In tests done in its state-of-the-art, ISO:9001-accredited beam laboratories, Ring found that the overall lumens light output from four-year-old HID bulbs had dropped by around 17.5% compared to equivalent new xenon HID bulbs – taking them below the legal limits for light output for HID bulbs as set out in ECE Reg 99. The lux output at the brightest point of the beam had dropped by around 59.5% when comparing the old bulb with the equivalent new xenon HID.* Note that this is a UK laboratory and shows the after 4 years HID bulbs fell below their ECE Reg 99 standard. (xenon bulbs were still above the 2750 minimum lumens standard however). You would probably notice an improvement if you installed quality, new bulbs. But you have to balance this against the cost. If money is no object however .... Don't forget to change your cabin air filter & fluids (PTU, brake, tranny, pwr steering & blinker fluids). ?

After you get it out, put a couple drops of lubricant in the motor bearing area. These motor bearings have a habit of drying out.

Sometimes price is not the.main consideration. I've read horror stories about Chinese wheels failing after a few years use. Sometimes at highway speeds. Whichever rim you decide on, I'd recommend you Google the manufacturer to see if there are any problems reported (remember they can change their name at the drop of a hat so longevity in business becomes important).