enigma-2

As you stated, there are two weep holes and it does sound like to lower on is showing a leak. 1. Maintain a close check on your oil. Any evidence of coolant intrusion will change to oil to look like a milk shake. Its important that you take immediate action when this occurs as it dilutes the oil and it loses its ability to lubricate. 2. Maintain your coolant levels. Even though its just a drip, you don't want to coolant lever to get low. Use the same coolant that came with the engine. Never mix coolants. (If you need to change to a newer coolant, do a flush and remove all traces of the old coolant.) 3. This was discussed here in the forum back in 2019 (here) Skim down to the excellent response from @WWWPerfA_ZN0W. 4. Keep in mind that that the water pump has two gaskets. An inner one and an outer one. When the inner one leaks, it shows at the drip hole (as yours is apparently doing.) Its an early warning to service the water pump. When the outer one leaks, it leaks into the crankcase and dilutes to oil. Other than oil dilution, there's no warning for the outer one. (The early warning is the leak from the weep hole.) 5. You said that you can't afford the $2500 to replace the pump. You should be aware that there's a class action lawsuit against Ford on their use of bad bearings in the pump that contributes to leaking. (Don't know how far along the suit is, but could check and get your name on list.) https://fordauthority.com/2024/01/ford-water-pump-lawsuit-settlement-ends-class-action/#:~:text=According to the lawsuit%2C defective,washes out the bearing lubricant. But in any case, check often so that it doesn't start leaking into the oil and kill the engine.

The sell on Amazon. Look it up and see if they ref your 2024. Dorman 600-234XD Patented Power Transfer Unit Assembly Compatible with Select Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Models (OE FIX) https://a.co/d/3K0kHZo

True enough, but the Dorman model had a built-in heat shield, drain and fill plugs (no advantage for 2019+) and improved seals. Usually don't like Dorman parts, but in this one situation, worth considering. I had mine replaced a couple of years ago under extended warranty. They replaced with an upgraded model. But if this one needs replacing, I'd consider this Dorman model.

Heads up display is a electronic module that projects an image onto the inside of your windshield. It allows to driver to maintain his eyes on the road while subsequently viewing the image. The image itself can contain different information. For example when Cadillac first fitted their cars with a HUD, it projected a visual image of the road ahead in infrared (allowed the driver to see the road ahead in heavy fog.) It can contain gauge readings, radio settings, whatever it programmed to project. While useful, it can also be a nuisance. There are realitively inexpensive aftermarket HUDs available if your interested. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Multi-color-Windshield-Projector-Overspeed-Interface/dp/B07D4H1C86/ref=asc_df_B07D4H1C86?mcid=dcf07340bbea38fe9eb4a9f3c451d972&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693452132332&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11144991337209104397&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016241&hvtargid=pla-1018383080608&psc=1

According to the video, it includes Sync 4.

Complete guide hacking Sync 3+. (Or, "how I learned to love Sync and void my warranty".) 🙂 https://www.fmods.net/community/faqpage#f2r0

Wireless headsets. Wireless router probably sits right inside the building where you parked.

Believe you meant your "coolant temperature gauge" inasmuch as the 07 didn't have an oil temp gauge. To me, it sounds like a bad wiring connector at the temp sensor, or bad wiring that goes to the sensor. Sit the wifepo or kids in the drivers seat and wiggle the wires going to the sensor. If it changes, you've isolated your culprit. With the grinding that accompanies the drop, only thing that comes to mind is that the short is also affecting an electrical accessory. Finding the gauge fault should lead to the grinding issue.

I've read where serpentine belt can cause clicking when accelerating and go quiet when hot. But could be several things. Need a mechanic to look at it.

Believe I'd try rebooting the module by pulling fuse 32 and keeping it out for a few minutes.

Couple of suggestions. 1. Check to see if "Vehicle Location" is enabled in the connectivity settings. 2. Check if phone settings allow FordPass to access your location. 2½. Check to see if FordPass app is latest version. 2¾. Check (in the FordPass app), if the modem is still active and connected. Did your vehicle go through a software update while driving? Some updates, particularly those that involve GPS, require the car to be stopped and trmurned off. Otherwise ... aaaarrrrruuuuggg!! Here's Ford's official troubleshooting guide if the app isn't updating: https://www.ford.ie/support/how-tos/fordpass/fordpass-remote-features/can-i-view-my-vehicles-location-in-the-fordpass-app#:~:text=Can I view my vehicle's location in the FordPass®,to see your vehicle's location.

Here's a listing (part number and price) from Ford dealer of all parts in rear bumper. 2022 Furd Edge, Titanium. ☆None are marked discontinued. As for price; drop your drawers, bend over, smile and yell "sock it to me, you filthy bastards." https://www.fordpartsconnect.com/v-2022-ford-edge--titanium--2-0l-l4-gas/body--bumper-and-components-rear

Good point. These air intakes pull in all kinds of junk. After taking my MKX to dealer for "The Works" couple years ago, got it back with severe diminished HVAC air flow. Went in through cabin filter opening and found it was full of torn-up foam pieces. After cleaning it out thought I'd see if I could find where it came from (of course that idiot service rep that did it. Called the service mgr and told him I found his little gift, didn't appreciate it. Was there couple weeks later and idiot was gone.) Anyway, had a hell of a time finding the inlet. On yours it's grilled, pointing up. On mine, it's covered with a heavy filter material and opens down in the back of the engine compartment. Still, good advice.

No codes? Besides evap, did you check for a dirty air filter? Any possibility one or more injectors dirty? How many miles on spark plugs? Plug boots in good condition?

Been reported in the truck forum that the APIM has been found with broken solder joints. Before spending the bucks, joints. Could pop open the module and look for cracks in the traces or cold solder jounts.

More likely that they needed 5 wire connector and had a 6 pin already spec'ed for a different application (money savings.l, less inventory. ) Back of my ACU has a plug where the rear camera plugs into. Only needs two wires but has pins for 10.

Did you bleed the abs module?

Just for fun ... In as much as they didn't remove the hub, and they had to cut the broken stud off to get enough room to remove it; how did they get the new one on?

It's possible that the pads could have pieces of metal or gunk embedded in them. Last brake job, did you put in OEM or aftermarket? Metallic or organic? (Organic is softer & quieter, tiny pieces of metal can embed in them and cause squeeking.)

Tell us your car brand, model & year. Then tell us ehat sort of problem(s) are you having with your brakes? As you have replaced the Master cylinder, can rule that out. If you step on the break pedal, does it go to the floor? Have you pulled the wheels and checked to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking? Brake hoses leaking?

May be easier and cheaper to just switch to a Weight-Distributing Hitch. Easily levels the towing vehicle, rides smother and limits sway. My dad and I towed a trailer all over the Midwest back in the 60's with one, worked great. Think it was a Reese. Harbor Freight sells one for less than a two hundred dollar bill.

They're LED if I'm not mistaken (least that's what is states in the owners manual.) You're probably going to need a service manual and replace the assy. @HAZ?

May not do any good, but you could run an self diagnostic mode on the speakers. Radio on, switch to AM or FM. On vehicles with an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the on/off button and the seek down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested. On vehicles without an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the stering wheel switch seek left button and the steering wheel switch volume down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested.