enigma-2

Follow up. Just happened to my daughter's 2013 Escape. She ran it over to local Ford dealer, insisted they fix it (she's bullheaded as he'll, have no idea where she gets it from). Mechanic came out, his wife is a teacher at same school where she works, so she trusts him, and he told her to just to rip it off as it's unneeded. Said its really for looks. He said that he had removed his, on both their cars. So she had them rip it off, didn't charge her and now she's happy.

Toms Oil did testing on oil filters years ago, Fram was one of the worst. Mobile One was the best (and most expensive), Motorcraft was second and still rated excellent. GM Delco was also rated excellent. (Mopar was an aftermarket filter.) Can never go wrong with Motorcraft parts.

You should be aware that Ford sells an add-on kit for four front sensors, wiring and a module. I looked at having my local dealer add this option years ago and decided that drive by feel was just as effective. If I remember correctly, I think the dealer quoted me 3 hours labor + price of the kit. It involved drilling holes in the bumper cover, installing the sensors, running the wiring harness and revising the body control module software to accommodate the circuit and register the upgrade with Ford (or Lincoln as in my case) for future software upgrades. I don't believe that you can just add additional sensors to the existing module because it's only energized in reverse, and the front circuit is only energized in drive. (Plus there's the question of how much load these modules are designed to carry.) There are also aftermarket, wireless kits available and don't depend on the BCM. (Yuck pooee.) Suppose you could always drill holes in your cars side to mount sensors. (Good luck on that.)

$250 ($270 if you want them with "EDGE" or "ST" ingraved in them. Fairly easy install. Red and other colors. (Ough, ough yellow .... 🙂 Can download installation instructions to see if this is something you can do (fairly easy as these are just covers.) Requires 20" wheels for the 19 ST. https://www.calipercovers.com/product/mgp-brake-caliper-covers-10247sclcrd-10247smgpbk-10247smgprd-10247smgpyl-10247sedgbk-10247sedgrd-10247sedgyl-10247sst1bk-10247sst1rd-10247sst1yl-10247sstobk-10247sstord-10247sstoyl-10247scusdf-10247sc/

$$$- that's why.

This may fit you car. Listed as having a 7" length and black. Seller has excellent feedback and allows 30 day returns. In feedback, purchaser has problem and seller worked with him. https://www.ebay.com/itm/375374742190?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8acyaogvtew&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'd imagine the simplest way is to look at the purpose of the circuits. For exampke, Circuit 32 is for the radio (and associated equipment) and if the radio turns off when the car is off and door opened, that's a timed circuit (it also shuts off after a specific amount of time, and the door hasn't been opened.) And Circuit 9 is always on, always looking for the signal to unlock to door. Whether the circuit is continuous or timed is determined by the SJB. As you have the repair manual, I'd start by looking at the blank fuse positions and see if the manual shows if they're monitored or unmonitored. If the manual doesn't detail this, you could simply check the fuse location to see if the blank has power with the door open. If it does, its hot at all times. If it doesn't, close the door, put the car in accessory and see if it has power then. (And goes off when car off/door ooen.) Personally, I'd check the wiring at the mirror to see if you can find what your looking for. (I have my radar detector wired into it. I needed power off, when car off. But if I remember correctly, there was also a circuit with continuous hot as well.) Keep us updated as to what you find. Like to know what you decide.

I would question adding oil above the max mark. On a 2.0 L, (think you have the 2.0 L) the manual calls for 5.7 quarts. You put in nearly 6 quarts (and that doesn't count what dirty oil was still left in the engine.) Adding too much allows the crankshaft to contact the top of the oil level, causing splashing and foaming. As the oil pickup floats on top of the oil, it draws the foam into the engine, starving the engine for lubrication it's the top components, the cams and associated parts, that suffer first. Also not a fan of blowing out a dirty air filter. Blowing out a dirty car air filter only removes loose surface debris and will probably damage the filter fibers, making the filter less efficient. It will also leave behind deeply embedded particals. Compressed air will forces dirt deeper into the filters leaving the filter partially clogged. New filters are cheap insurance.

Actually, their not really "splash" shields at all, they were implemented to drop the drag factor to improve average gas milage. It doesn't matter if water splashes up into the engine compartment. Just look at the millions of Fords on the road which never came with these "splash shields". My MKX didn't come with one, glad it doesn't, damn things fall off far too easily. If they fail, just yank it off and keep driving. Probably won't even notice any difference in milage.

According to Ford it can't be done. Currently, there is no way to upgrade your vehicle’s current infotainment system to SYNC® 4, as it is exclusive to newer models like the upcoming 2021 Ford Mustang Mach-E and 2021 Ford F150. Of course that means war, and several have looked into doing this. No one has yet succeeded. Companies that offer kits to upgrade existing Sync systems, (such as Infotainment), do not offer any upgrades for Sync 3 to Sync 4, for the Edge. They do have a Sync 3 to 4 kit for the F150, but it still uses the 8" screen and you lose some existing functions in doing the "upgrade". ($1200 with navigation.) There's been a lot of discussion about doing the Sync 4 upgrade in the F150 forum, with most being dissatisfied with losing navigation upgrades,, Hotspots and the like. There's a huge amount of changes in relation to the 12" screen vs the 8". {Abandon all hope, all who enter here}

According to Ford, the maximum weight that's allowed on a 2013 Ford Edge roof rails is 100 lbs. (Applies to all years of Edge or MKX.) At least one individual (this forum) have written that they have slept overnight in one of these tents and that they weigh 240 lbs. The 100 lb max weight rating probably takes dynamic wind loading into account (i.e. uplift.)

Put the car in accessory mode, radio will turn on, no CD in radio, press AND HOLD the "eject" button and while holding press and hold the right seek button. Radio will enter the "all around speaker mode". Be ready for the speakers to start blaring out tones. (This will tell you if the radio and amplifier is working.) But in lieu of this, you could try a soft reset. Settings->General->scroll all the way down until you see "Reset". (Make certain you disconnect any USB devices.) This resets the ACM (radio) back to factory defaults and you will lose all of your personal settings. (You will have to pair your phone again.) But it may restore your sound. If this doesn't work, try resitting the Sync system by pulling the Sync fuse. Think it's #32 in your car. (10A.) Keep out for a few minutes. This allows to module to discharge and reset. (Basically it drains the capacity parts.) While you're down there, transversing through the Forbidden Forest of of her nether regions, check fuse #28. It's for the amplifier; only thing on that fuse. (20A.)

Just a FYI, one other item you might take into account when installing aftermarket speakers, is interference with the AnvanceTrac stability control systems. Some guys are not aware of this potential problem. For your reference: In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the AdvanceTrac with RSC system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the AdvanceTrac with RSC sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the AdvanceTrac with RSC system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.

This is the test equipment I use to isolate charging systems (and battery condition.) https://a.co/d/031xwiW8

TED unit on drivers seat bottom failed. (Both passenger units failed last year. They were replaced under the extended warranty and cost $0.) When switch clicked on, nothing happened and leds turn off after a minute. Troubleshooting verified the TED unit failed. Had dealer replace both seat bottom and seat back TED units (when one fails, the other usually follows within a few months.) Seat heats and cools like new now. Only cost ¼ the cost of the car when new. <grunt>

"Factory Authorized Reproduction"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145691077488?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4Z2ZzMejRae&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

In all honesty, what good is it? 09 — Car starts, all good. Doesn't, need a jump. Need a jump, check and/or replace battery. (Actually it probably just needs water. These maintenance free battery's still need to have water added.) Want to disable start/stop, disconnect the battery condition connector at the battery. Don't really need half the junk the slap on these cars anyway.

There are 7 recalls on the 2017 Edge. https://www.kbb.com/ford/edge/2017/recall/#:~:text=recall 17V-427.-,Summary%3A,may have been inadequately welded.&text=Enter Your VIN-,Tip%3A Recalls don't affect every vehicle of the,same year%2C make and model. I'd imagine that there are hundreds of small changes (some good, some to save money.)

No signature in the mobile version. (I access the forum via cell phone. Bet several other do as well.)

One other possibility, contact your local Ford dealer's body shop parts dept. They can send a request to all dealers in the country. There's always a possibility (sight of course) that a dealer has one in stock. (Possibly ordered in the past but never installed). Never hurts to try. My local dealer was able to track down a part in a different state for me.

I'm thinking that the "full sized" spare is only 17" and doesn't match up in height with a standard size tire. Also it's not intended to be used for more than 50 miles. (And has a max 50 mph rating.) Other than that, at least on my mkx, the wheel well is only large enough to fit the donut spare. (A full size tire doesn't fit below the floor.)

Another possibility is that's it's a navigation alert from Sync maps. It's been found in another forum that it will alert you of traffic conditions (even if you don't have a route planned.) Next time you hear the double-chime, jump over to Sync maps and see if there is some sort of traffic alert on the screen.

Try disabling the door keypad in the post above yours. The most common cause for keypad flashing, other than normal indication of failed entry (¹) is water getting into the keypad between the seal and B-Pillar trim. (Another guy with a 150 tracked his leak to a moonrise seal leaking). (¹) The keypad will go into an anti-scan mode if you enter the wrong code seven times (35 consecutive button presses). This mode disables the keypad for one minute, and the keypad lamp will flash.

What it states in my owners manual "It is recommended that the two front tires or two rear tires generally be replaced as a pair." I've read that different tires on the same axle can have different tread and throw off the AdvanceTrac sensors. (You see this when you drive using the spare.) Personally I replace all four when one is damaged and there's at least 50% wear. (I like a smooth, quiet ride.)