enigma-2

Man I don't blame you. That's twice as high the National average. There must have been parts involved. Perhaps a failed receiver/dryer or something.

Probably not. I had a windshield leak after replacment, glass company applied extra sealant where needed. Five minute job. Did you have to pay for the windshield? Can you share the price? (Curious about what a modern windshield costs now).

RDU bearings will howl when they are worn. Also worn ring & pinion. As you ran low of lub may be worth pulling the cover and have a look. (You probably need seals anyway). Whats the cost of rebuilding differential (you have a AWD right)?

Was. Ford is forcing all their dealers to do this to build customer base. When I called them for service appointment they finished with "are we picking it up or will you be bringing it in"? Asked them when I dropped it off and they said all dealers doing this now. They also had about a half-dozen loaners available. Mostly year old F150's and some Expedition's. Something else, when I got the loaner all I needed was drivers license and insurance info. About a half hour later I got a text with a link. The link takes you to a website where you review and sign contract. Much easier than before. Only problem was they showed fuel tank as full (default) and truck only had 1/4 tank. Phone call to dealer fixed it.

BTW, forgot to add, Ford service centers now come to your house, leave you a loaner for the day, drive your car to the dealership and service it, then bring it back. Don't even have to leave home to get car repaired. Plus you have a loaner. Free!

Wife likes to pop on the seat heater whenever we go anywhere. (Never uses seat a/c). Problem popped up in March, turn on seat, stays on for 2-minutes and then shuts off. Doesn't get hot. Took to dealer yesterday (they gave me a new F150 as a loaner, 4 wd, super quiet, smooth, like driving a tank). Diagnostic Technician checked wiring, module and TED. Turned out the TED failed. Will take 5 days to get in. $849 (or thereabouts). They fully expected me to say "no way" but got "ok, fix it". Guy on phone choked. Repeated the price. Said "fine". "Should be covered by Lincoln warranty. (2009 Lincoln MKX). Guy got authoritarian reminding me that the factory warranty ran out years ago. Said no, extended warranty. (On a 2009)? So he looked it up and there it was. Covered? Yup. Going back to get it put in next week, plus 3 new Schrader valves and a/c recharge, plus full 174 check (certified used) inspection. (Want to find everything I can before extended warranty runs out next month).

Different circuits,, only common denominator is the harness. Sounds to me like the harness is unplugged. Have you pulled the console down and checked if it's plugged in? Did this start after a visit to the dealer?

Did you check to see if the ticking stopped after you removed each coil? (Isolate coil-by-coil to see if ticking stops).

Doubtful. Most leakage occurs down inside the socket near the bottom of the skirt. One possible way to isolate the problem would be to remove each coil one at a time and see if the ticking in the audio stops. No problems for straight 4's but a pain on V-6 cyl. Might be easier to disable the coil by unplugging them one at a time and check audio. Ticking stops, you found the coil causing the ticking.

I have a 2009 MKX. She gets a trip to the car wash throughout the winter whenever they salt the roads. No rust. Grand kids buy grampa car wash coupons for Xmas. Great gift. Haven't tried it, but a lot of people swear by Fluid Film. Best to find a professional to spray the bottom of the car as messy. Goes right over rust and stops it dead.

Have you checked the fluid level in the power steering reservoir?

Couple of thoughts (although I've never experienced this myself). 1. Check the condition of the control arm bushings. You could have a bad bushing or something broken. 2. Check the condition of the front struts. Bad struts can make the nose dip in a tight turn which unloads the rear suspension causing the car to hop. 3. Wheel alignment is bad. Does the car track straight (or did someone misalign the rear to the front)?

When you replaced the pads, did you notice the pins sticking? Did you clean out the old grease before greasing and replacing the pins? Stuck pins can cause one side to stick and not contact the rotors same as the caliper side. Only way to tell if the rotors are too thin is the check the specks and mike the roters thickness. Did you notice if the rotors had a lot of deep groves? You can have them turned if there's enough thickness left.

If you're considering manual, why not just go with air shocks. Lot cheaper and old technology. Want a stiffer ride, just pump them up (and don't forget a mouth guard).

Try unplugging the battery again, leave disconnected for several minutes (or take the disconnected positive lead and hold it to chassis ground) to drain the capacitors in the various systems and reset the modules. Sounds like the APIM needs resetting.

The capacitor basically filters the Pulsating DC produced by the alternator. Smooths out the ripple to kill a whine on the AM band. Not related to filter out the tic, tic of the Ignition system. On old AM radio sets, the power rectifier tube produced half-wave Pulsating DC and used 2 large filter capacitors. They were electrolytic capacitors which used a wet paste as the dielectric and when the paste dried out, they would open, producing a loud 60 cycle hum in the radio. On cars, the sound is a high-pitched whine which varies with alternator rpm. Modern cars use a full wave bridge and the ripple is much smaller. But still present.) The ticking should basically comes from the ignition system. Each coil not only sends high voltage to the plug, but also acts like a transmitter. On older cars, we used to use plug wires made with graphite cores, which acted as resistors preventing the high voltage from radiating out. Nowadays the cars don't use spark plug wires and the coil sits directly on the plug and uses a shield to block the ignition radiation. (Why I suspected a skirt that's leaking spark).

I seem to remember reading a few years ago where this was traced to a coil where a coil skirt was leaking spark, causing the tick, tick sound in the AM band. (Shouldn't hear it on the FM & satellite bands as the noise is clipped below the quieting threshold).

I doubt that you would like light from LED after running with HID. OEM LEDs use assemblies designed specifically for their physical characteristics. As are HIDs. You can't run LEDs in a reflector designed for HIDs and get a satisfactory result. (LED headlights don't use replaceable bulbs). HID will dim over time, possibly that's the problem. Don't know how many hours your HIDs have been used over the last 8 years. Maybe you need to replace them? This site discusses HID dimming and what to look for. https://www.xenonsonline.com/blogs/news/hid-headlights-in-depth

Looks to me as if the connector on the opposite end from the aftermarket clamp could possibly connect directly to the connection with the aftermarket clamp is. As if it originally connected there and someone added a length of hose between for some reason.

EricTheCarGuy shows how to repair a heat shield fast and cheap. I'd use stainless steel for the corrosion resistance.

Yea, no sh*t. Motorcraft shocks for the rear of a 2019 Ford Edge run under $45/ea. https://a.co/d/h49g4qK What's the "top mount" of the shocks?

Whether you're able to charge your cell in a 40 minute drive or not is really dependent on its level of discharge and age. If the cell doesn't full charge while on USB doesn't necessarily mean the ports are bad. Cheap cable, dirty connections, heavily discharged battery or old phone are all factors that can contribute to a slow charge. I use a Verizon charger plugged into a front power point. About the best I can expect. USB is slower and the pad (used one in my MKX) is downright annoying (abet convenient).

Save yourself some time. Spray the hinges with silicone spray.

Just add to the conversation, few years ago my blower began to make wierd noises. I pulled the blower and lubed the bearings with a little WD40 and Super Lube. Been quiet for a few years now.

Couple of thoughts to add to your list. 1. Check to see if they forgot to reconnect the electrical connection to the compressor. 2. With the ac set to max, is compressor running?