enigma-2

Just thought I'd talk to any fellow vets on the site. I go to the VA once a year for an annual physical, assigned to a great Nurse Practioner (she's as tough as any Marine I ever served with.) I use my Medicare for my medical but still maintain my VA status with an annual physical. (May drop my Part D drug plan and got with the VA next year inasmuch as all Plan D's are raising their rates, deductibles and moving drugs from lower to higher tiers in the formulary. She's been on me for a few years to file for disability. Don't believe that I'm disabled, but she finally talked me into filing for Agent Orange exposure, loss of hearing and tendinitis. Sent me to several doctors at different places and got results showing that I'm 80% disabled. (80% rating is worth $2k a month. Tax free.) So the purpose of this is, if your a vet, you're entitled to VA Health care. Get a full blood panel and complete physical. You can get your prescriptions through the VA (really cheap) plus a bunch of other stuff, like insurance (can apply up to age 80, no underwriting) college (for the younger guys, etc.) So if you're a vet and not hooked up with the VA, look into it. You earned it.

When I wrote this I forgot that I also had a similar problem on my 09 MKX. Passenger seat would go back but not forward. Replaced the switch assembly and has worked perfectly ever since.

Closing had different conditions than opening. Most issues are related to the sensors (they don't come into play during opening.) Other than that, it really sounds like the homelink is sending the wrong close code. Try resyncing the homelink unit with the opener. If the door opens ok with homelink, try staying in the same space a d closing. If it still doesn't close, I really suspect a paring problem.

Fluids: • Oil (at 7.5k) • Power steering (40k) • Brake (30 - 60 k depending on environment) • Transmission (60 k) • PTU (30k) • Coolant (30k) • Blinker (60k) • RDU (90k or after anytime car driven through deep water) • Can of fuel injection & system cleaner (1-2× year) Filters: • Air cleaner • Cabin filter • Climate controlled seat filters (30k) • Fuel (150k I think) Mechanical: • Clean Throttle body plate • Clean Mass Air Flow • Change EGR (150k) • Change water pump (3.5L engine at 150k) • Change spark plugs (90k max) • Spare Tire pressure (2× year) • Wipe all weatherstripping with 303 protectant (annually) • Wipe wiper blades with alcohol and treat with 303 protectant (2x annually) • Clean headlights with Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish and recoat with Meguiar's G17804 Keep Clear Headlight Coating • Change accessory drive belts (150k) • Rotate tires (every oil change) • Lube door & liftgate hinges, door locks & liftgate mechanism (spray silicone) • Walk around car and check all light bulbs for operation

What does your local dealer say?

https://www.fairwayfordparts.net/oem-parts/ford-tube-assembly-fuel-vapour-separat-f2gz9d289b?srsltid=AfmBOooKqRJMTj0C2cV2SR9KcyXV2lKxs2vBrE0teyBBBNNuk_gC3xNo $135 + shipping. https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-tube-assembly-fuel-vapour-separat-f2gz9d289b $136 + shipping.

Believe the audio control module is responsible for the AM/FM radio, CD/DVD player, hard drive, preamp and preliminary amplifier and other multimedia functions plus such as interconnections to the APIM (Sync). Doesn't have any control over heated/cooled seats, etc. Sounds like they left a connector disconnected.

Try pulling the fuse, start the car, then shut it off, open and close the drivers door, replace the fuse, start the car again and put in reverse. Fellow in another forum reported it worked for him. Probably a defective camera or possible corrosion on the camera connector. As for the reverse sensors, corrosion at the external connectors or defective wiring are the usual culprits. Quick visual check can eliminate these possibilities. (Car been deep water? Corrosion on connectors.) (If yes, also change rear axle fluid. RDU is vented.)

Didn't think that aftermarket radios can use the Sync system. Every aftermarket system I've looked at was a stand-alone system. (But its been awhile.) As you asked, I don't believe that its possible to upgrade from Sync-1 to Sync-3. I have Sync-1 and never found a way to do this. (Hardware, modules, wiring, new steering wheel with assoc hardware, computers are different, etc.) Personally I wouldn't do it even if I could. Sync-1 gives me everything I need. Hands-free calls, messaging, navigation, nearby gas prices, traffic congestion, weather radar, music from my cell phone, DVD movies, talking books on hard drive. About the only thing I'd like is the ability to talk to Sync in normal English. (Can't remember the commands or syntac.) And, you can upgrade a Sync-1 system to add Apple Carplay or Android Auto, mirror cell-to-screen, up to 4- cameras, have DVDs or cameras in motion; by using an aftermarket add-on, with a few hundred bucks.

Oops, you're right. That's a "system" reset. Thanks for catching this. 👍 Master reset is in sittings->General. (Still should check for old door codes. Don't think a reset clears this.)

I know on my 09 MKX with Sync 1, there was an update that HAD to be performed ata Ford dealership. That p'ed me off and I asked the service desk why. Just another con for getting more money out of me? They said it was because they had to update the Proms in several modules before they could do the software update, and required they to use their computer to connect the Ford and let Ford update those modules. So I said ... "oh", went into the waiting room and drank a cup of coffee, satisfied that I had my way with them.....

As FM is working great, the circuitry is working, after all it's an AM,FM antenna. So, the best way to improve reception in AM is to drill a 1" hole in your fender and attach a 42" telescopic antenna.... On my 2009, the AM works great. I can receive at a minimum three stations. Maybe four after 9 pm. (Insert sarcastic laugh). Actually, I never listen to AM or FM. Usually only SIRUS XM news and do-wop. Sometimes a CD or DVD, sometimes a talking book ripped to the hard disk. (Borrow them from the local library and rip them to the car.)

Try this, just in case, press the voice button and after the tone, say “Bluetooth Audio”. If (when) it connects, say “Play” and see if that works.

Known issue. Read this thread.

You may need to clear more than old phone connection. Items such as voice recognition and the like. Easiest way is to preform an master reset. 1. Press and hold the Seek up and audio unit Power buttons simultaneously until the screen goes black. 2. Wait for the system reset to complete. 3. Press the audio unit Power button to turn the system back on. Also, don't forget to remove the old keyless entry codes and set a new one for yourself.

You could try an A14, $15 SD Card from Ebay and see. (Probably Chineese clone, but if it works ...) https://www.ebay.com/itm/387067082604?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4stf3o6qsxw&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Badge https://www.ebay.com/itm/315351739180?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dazfrd5at0-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Is your software up to date?

Have you looked at these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/395576217710?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_c_rf5jutd-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=664322568358&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Ford just announced that its rethinking the ev lineup going forward. Stay tuned ...

Happened to me a few years back. Made the dealer order and pay for a new cover. He said it really wasn't necessary. I said that "that" was my decision and you have no business removing parts ang throwing them away without my knowledge. They replaced it at their expense. They didnt want to, made them understand that if they wanted to keep my business, they lost it, they were going to replace it. Youre not going to be happy with the cover missing, replace it. At our age, little things like that, matter. If they refuse, tell them you'll pay for the parts, they pay for the labor. But make certain they understand that they lost it and your future business depends on it getting replaced. Also buy an extended warranty as you're going to keep the car. There are several secrets to getting it at a good deal. If you ask, I'll tell you what I did to save hundreds.

Yea, I read that K&N breath easier because they were designed for racing and allow smaller particles to get through (racing engines get torn down after every race, unlike a domestic that is designed to go a lifetime.) K&N lets the small micron dirt get through, the size that scratches the cylindar walls.

Enclosed please find a picture of my car and a check for €3.72. Please send me an air Quality Control sticker.

I realize this may be controversial, but seems to make sense (at least to me.) It concerns the use of why you should use OEM air cleaners and not aftermarket. He also discusses how the oiled filters leaves an oil film on the MAF and that modern cars already have built in cold air inlets. It's a few years old, but still seems relevant. I also tracked down the NCIO Test Report and this website (ncio club) where the results are summarized. Not too surprising that the OEM filter completely dominated the test results. What was surprising was how badly K&N filters did; finishing at or near the bottom of the tests. Anyway, interesting results. https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

Wee bit warm in the summ🔥er. ....... but its dry heat. (but then again, so is hell ...)