enigma-2

How did this turn out? If the problem still exists, did you check the BMS? The BMS is located on the negative battery terminal. If its failing the PCM can miscalculate the charging needs. Try unplugging the BMS sensor temporarily. If the intermittent charging stops and defaults to a steady ~13.5V to 13.8V, your alternator is physically capable of charging, and the issue is likely a bad BMS sensor.

Ever get this fixed? One other thing that can cause thus is a tripped or locked Field Effect Transistor circuit inside the Body Control Module. One way to test this is turn the headlight switch on, disconnect the main wire plug from the back of the broken headlight assembly and check to see if there's power to the lighs power pin. (On the passenger side, the power wire is blue with green stripe.) If there's no voltage to the power pin the BCM has locked out the headlight. An easy fix for this is to use FORScan. Go to the service/configuration tab in FORScan and select BCM Module Reset (or possibly Front Light Control Module reset). Then clear the DTC error codes and this should reset the BCM.

As you've changed the EVAP Valve, another thing that can cause the engine stalling at idle (unless you press the gas pedal) is the low-pressure fuel pump or sensor. If the sensor reads fuel pressure incorrectly or the fuel pump in the gas tank is getting weak and can't deliver enough fuel to the high-pressure pump on the engine idle, the engine starts to die. Giving it gas forces the system to command more fuel pressure, keeping it alive temporarily. Should throw a P0087 or P0191. An outside chance could be related to a dirty throttle body. The throttle body internal motor gets dirty and fails to maintain the correct idle gap for airflow when your foot is off the pedal, choking out the engine. Look for a P2111 or P2112 codes. .

Something similar happen to me. One common cause is a stuck internal valve inside the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit. (This is a known, common issue for this generation of Ford Edges.) Believed to be caused by a chemical reaction between old brake fluid and the zinc plating inside the HCU. It causes fluid to turn into a gel and prevents the internal valves from closing properly. (When a valve sticks open, hydraulic pressure bypasses the calipers and dumps right back into the system, causing the pedal to sink completely to the floor without losing any external fluid.) Immediate fix is to replace brake fluid (should do this every 3-5 years anyway, brake fluid goes bad like any other fluid.) Then bleed the HCU.

good. Something similar happen to me. One common cause is a stuck internal valve inside the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit. (This is a known, common issue for this generation of Ford Edges.) Believed to be caused by a chemical reaction between old brake fluid and the zinc plating inside the HCU. It causes fluid to turn into a gel and prevents the internal valves from closing properly. (When a valve sticks open, hydraulic pressure bypasses the calipers and dumps right back into the system, causing the pedal to sink completely to the floor without losing any external fluid.) Immediate fix is to replace brake fluid (should do this every 3-5 years anyway, brake fluid goes bad like any other fluid.) Then bleedc the HCU.

A weak vehicle battery can cause all kinds of weird faults. Verify your battery is good by running a conductance test (a CCA test). (Not just a simple voltage test which is misleading. A battery may present 12.6 volts at rest but drop voltage quickly. A CCA test measures how much capacity the battery can deliver before its voltage drops.) Low voltage can cause digital electronics to malfunction.

Per Wubster100's post. Connect FORScan, click on the "tests" icon (looks like a clipboard with a checkmark.) Select the BCM self test from the list. Click the run button at the bottom left. The BCM test will run and test the BCM's internal circuits, read live data and report any codes.

I've thought a little more about your low heat condition and something caught my attention. It would seem that you had either reached and at least checked everything that could cause this condition. Seems that could leave one item. Inasmuch as you have the dual heat system, it doesn't work the same as a single system, in that it only delivers as much or as little heat as needed to compensate for the conditions at that time. (I have the same system in my MKX.) The only way to get full heat in this system is to turn the temperature control up to 90°. After the car is fully warmed up, try turning the thermostat to 90° and see if your getting sufficient heat at this sitting.

It would appear that you have covered all of the possibilities. Based on your statements, it really comes down to the blend doors opening all the way or a partially blocked Heather core. There's a easy check for the core, after the car is warmed up, feel both hoses going into the cabin. Both should be hot. In one is noticeably cooler than the other, there's a partial blockage. Some time ago, Ford issued a customer satisfaction program for this generation due to casting sand or scale corroding and plugging the heater core channels. (It's expired now, but the problems you wrote about seem to describe it to a tee. Some sand left over from engine casting worked its way to the core partially blocking the small channels. Weaker on drivers side than passenger. Never gets really hot, etc.) The complaint was for a 2008 but applies to all first generation edges. https://blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/37362-poor-heater-performance/

When replacing the alternator, it's possible to disconnect the shift cable linkage underneath the air filter box. One possible way to check this is if the shifter moves smoothly but the transmission lever on doesn’t move. if this is the problem, remove the air filter housing box to look deep at the top of the transmission. Look for the shift cable. It terminates with a small metal lever with a plastic bushing. If the cable is hanging loose just snap it back on. Another possibility is low voltage to the electronic shift solenoids. If the alternator power wire accidentally grounds against the frame during installation, it could have blown a fuse killing the transmission control module. Check fuse 56 (or whichever fuse controls the TCM in your car.)

That's the correct p/n. Note that it's also sold under the short part number DY-1317. There could be different numbers stamped on the side of the module. Possibilities include: BA1T-9G768-AM BA1T-9G768-AJ BA1T-9G768-AK BA1T-9G768-AH

Could be a broken shift cable bushing (theres a Recall on this.) If the shifter feels loose or disconnected and does not change gears properly, the The plastic bushing at the transmission end of the cable has broken. (This is a known issue covered by NHTSA Recall 22V-413, and affects 2011-2014 Ford Edges.) the fix is to your dealership to have the bushing replaced for free.

With both both weak heat and weak cooling, my initial guess would be a faulty blend door actuator. This would be especially true if the air flow is sufficient but it just isn't hot or cold enough. (If the airflow weak it suggests a different problem.) First try a reset. 1. Turn the vehicle off. 2. Press and hold the system power button and the front defrost button at the same time, for about 5 seconds. 3. Then release and press the power button again. (This forces the system to recalibrate the climate doors.)

Because you stated you smell gas when put in gear suggests a damaged or cracked charcoal canister or hose.

Yes, your 4-cylinder 2.0L EcoBoost engine requires SAE 5W-30 oil. 5W-20 oil will thin out at operating temperatures and will not maintain a protective film between moving metal parts. Most critically, the turbos are at greatest risk. They spin at +150,000 RPM and uses oil to cool and lubricate the bearings. 5W20 will break down (get too thin) under this extreme heat, leading to bearing wear or turbo failure. Replace it immediately with 5W30.

If we can assume that the LEDs were aftermarket, there's a possibility that the LED were installed with an external driver box (a small metal/plastic rectangle attached to the wire.) If so, did you also remove this adapter from the factory housing as well? (This additional harness must also be removed.) When installing the Halogen bulbs, wipe the glass with an alcohol wipe to remove any possible contamination. Never touch the glass with your fingers as it will leave oils from your finger and dramatically shorten the life of the bulbs.

Looking at the literature, there is apparently a gasket (located at the mid-pipe to catalytic converter) that degrades over time, or the flange ears can rust off. One suggestion to verify this is to connect the reverse output from a shop vac to the tailpipe with duct tape to make an air-tight connection. Then using a squirt bottle of soapy water, spray the solution on all the joints looking for soap bubbles from the air escaping. There should NOT be any places along a worn exhaust system where it's shinny nor have traces of black from carbon. (Telltale signs.) If you find even a small leak, have it fixed immediately as CO2 is dangerous inside the cabin.

Could also check Fuse #44. (Protects the rear seat release solenoids.)

Did you check the fuses?

"... so decided to open it up and change everything but the Cam phasers and chains. " Why on earth would you not change the timing chain? I can understand the reason for not changing the cam phasers as they'll set you back $500. But after tearing down the engine, and considering the milage, could be cheap insurance.

Probably violates Ford's OEM warranty.......

Could of things come to mind. With low oil pressure, rattling, and codes P0012 (Bank 1 over-retarded) and P0022 (Bank 2 over-retarded) after you replaced the water pump, it may be caused if the pump had failed and caused l coolant to leak into the oil. If so, this created a "milky" sludge that clogged the VVT solenoids. As to the rattling sound, if you reused hydraulic timing chain tensioner abd failed to bled it properly, it probably can't maintain pressure which causes the chain to slap against the guides.

This always happens to me on my 09 MKX. Rust on the rims. I pay my mechanic to sand the rim and then apply a tire sealant to the rim to prevent leaks. Have no problems with this process. Some mechanics' don't want to do this so make certain it's on the work order and verify they will do it; even if they charge extra. Learned this the hard way years ago. Tires slow leaked, continuously. Took it back to the Ford garage and had them take off the tire, sand to rims and apply sealant. Mechanic sanded the rims but didn't use sealant. Still slow leaked. Back to Ford and they tore off all 4 tires and applied sealant. Amazing how cooperative the service personnel can get when you ask to speak with the owner of the dealership about who should pay. (Make certain the specify both sanding and sealant on the work order.)

Did the same thing when I had a tire that couldn't be patched. Old ones had about 10k on them, so I had my mechanic pop on 4-new 245/50 R20 Pirelli Scorpion Verde's. New ones are actually smoother and quieter than the one ones. I'm particular when it comes to tires or brakes. I want the best at all times. (Could be the difference between life and death.)

As i understand it, the rubber plugs found on the bottom of car doors can serve different functions. One is to prevent road salt, dust, and water from entering the inner door cavity from the outside. They also act as one-way valves, allowing water that entered through the window seals to drain out. They also act as cleaning access. You to remove them to spray out dirt inside to door. They also alliow mechanics to spray rust prevention coatings into the door's interior without needing to drill new holes. And lastly for sound proofing. They help reduce wind noise from entering the interior. .