enigma-2

Believe you meant your "coolant temperature gauge" inasmuch as the 07 didn't have an oil temp gauge. To me, it sounds like a bad wiring connector at the temp sensor, or bad wiring that goes to the sensor. Sit the wifepo or kids in the drivers seat and wiggle the wires going to the sensor. If it changes, you've isolated your culprit. With the grinding that accompanies the drop, only thing that comes to mind is that the short is also affecting an electrical accessory. Finding the gauge fault should lead to the grinding issue.

I've read where serpentine belt can cause clicking when accelerating and go quiet when hot. But could be several things. Need a mechanic to look at it.

Believe I'd try rebooting the module by pulling fuse 32 and keeping it out for a few minutes.

Couple of suggestions. 1. Check to see if "Vehicle Location" is enabled in the connectivity settings. 2. Check if phone settings allow FordPass to access your location. 2½. Check to see if FordPass app is latest version. 2¾. Check (in the FordPass app), if the modem is still active and connected. Did your vehicle go through a software update while driving? Some updates, particularly those that involve GPS, require the car to be stopped and trmurned off. Otherwise ... aaaarrrrruuuuggg!! Here's Ford's official troubleshooting guide if the app isn't updating: https://www.ford.ie/support/how-tos/fordpass/fordpass-remote-features/can-i-view-my-vehicles-location-in-the-fordpass-app#:~:text=Can I view my vehicle's location in the FordPass®,to see your vehicle's location.

Here's a listing (part number and price) from Ford dealer of all parts in rear bumper. 2022 Furd Edge, Titanium. ☆None are marked discontinued. As for price; drop your drawers, bend over, smile and yell "sock it to me, you filthy bastards." https://www.fordpartsconnect.com/v-2022-ford-edge--titanium--2-0l-l4-gas/body--bumper-and-components-rear

Good point. These air intakes pull in all kinds of junk. After taking my MKX to dealer for "The Works" couple years ago, got it back with severe diminished HVAC air flow. Went in through cabin filter opening and found it was full of torn-up foam pieces. After cleaning it out thought I'd see if I could find where it came from (of course that idiot service rep that did it. Called the service mgr and told him I found his little gift, didn't appreciate it. Was there couple weeks later and idiot was gone.) Anyway, had a hell of a time finding the inlet. On yours it's grilled, pointing up. On mine, it's covered with a heavy filter material and opens down in the back of the engine compartment. Still, good advice.

No codes? Besides evap, did you check for a dirty air filter? Any possibility one or more injectors dirty? How many miles on spark plugs? Plug boots in good condition?

Been reported in the truck forum that the APIM has been found with broken solder joints. Before spending the bucks, joints. Could pop open the module and look for cracks in the traces or cold solder jounts.

More likely that they needed 5 wire connector and had a 6 pin already spec'ed for a different application (money savings.l, less inventory. ) Back of my ACU has a plug where the rear camera plugs into. Only needs two wires but has pins for 10.

Did you bleed the abs module?

Just for fun ... In as much as they didn't remove the hub, and they had to cut the broken stud off to get enough room to remove it; how did they get the new one on?

It's possible that the pads could have pieces of metal or gunk embedded in them. Last brake job, did you put in OEM or aftermarket? Metallic or organic? (Organic is softer & quieter, tiny pieces of metal can embed in them and cause squeeking.)

Tell us your car brand, model & year. Then tell us ehat sort of problem(s) are you having with your brakes? As you have replaced the Master cylinder, can rule that out. If you step on the break pedal, does it go to the floor? Have you pulled the wheels and checked to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking? Brake hoses leaking?

May be easier and cheaper to just switch to a Weight-Distributing Hitch. Easily levels the towing vehicle, rides smother and limits sway. My dad and I towed a trailer all over the Midwest back in the 60's with one, worked great. Think it was a Reese. Harbor Freight sells one for less than a two hundred dollar bill.

They're LED if I'm not mistaken (least that's what is states in the owners manual.) You're probably going to need a service manual and replace the assy. @HAZ?

May not do any good, but you could run an self diagnostic mode on the speakers. Radio on, switch to AM or FM. On vehicles with an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the on/off button and the seek down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested. On vehicles without an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the stering wheel switch seek left button and the steering wheel switch volume down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested.

Next step is to contact Ford Corporate. 800-392-3673 (Mon-Fri 8:00am-8:00pm EST) Use your highly dissatisfied voice (squeekiest wheel ... grease)

8. If the test fluid turns yellow in gasoline engines or green in diesel engines, it indicates the engine has a combustion leak. If the test fluid remains blue, no combustion gas is present in the coolant indicating there is no combustion leak. If leaks are detected, have engine repaired by a qualified repair technician. Any possibility that there may be a leak from a cracked heater hose?

@KoKo there are several kits available on Ebay. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/295777069979?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=p0rx1Sv3SRu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You change just the fans or the complete fan assembly? @1004ron asked you if you used Motorcraft or aftermarket because, if you change the fan assembly and use aftermarket, fans not working afterwards is a known problem. The aftermarket fan assembly connectors have been found to be wired incorrectly. (Among other factors.)

Ummmmm, let's compromise. I'll say I was wrong if you admit I was right. 😁

Ummmmm, let's compromise. I'll say I was wrong if you admit I was right.

AFAIK there are two different 3.5 L engines, one that faces forward with an external water pump and the the other a transverse (as in the Edge) with an external water pump. As far as the 14 parts in a kit, you can check out this kit for what's included. Not recommending as it's not Motorcraft, and I'd only use Motorcraft, but gives you a good idea as to what's included. https://www.partsgeek.com/4zlxl33-ford-edge-timing-chain-kit-and-water-pump.html While you're tearing down the engine, I'd also go with new plugs, new coil skirts & new EGR.

A P0365 code indicates a problem with the camshaft position sensor or its circuit. And its a serious problem. Usual problem areas is the faulty camshaft position sensor, oil leaking onto the sensor or a short in the sensor circuit wiring or connector. Theres also a possibility of a PCM failure. Probably need an oscilloscope to map the signals coming out of the sensor to be certain. I recommend taking it to a competent service tech or dealer. Could be something as simple as a mouse feeding on your wiring harness.