enigma-2

It would appear that you have covered all of the possibilities. Based on your statements, it really comes down to the blend doors opening all the way or a partially blocked Heather core. There's a easy check for the core, after the car is warmed up, feel both hoses going into the cabin. Both should be hot. In one is noticeably cooler than the other, there's a partial blockage. Some time ago, Ford issued a customer satisfaction program for this generation due to casting sand or scale corroding and plugging the heater core channels. (It's expired now, but the problems you wrote about seem to describe it to a tee. Some sand left over from engine casting worked its way to the core partially blocking the small channels. Weaker on drivers side than passenger. Never gets really hot, etc.) The complaint was for a 2008 but applies to all first generation edges. https://blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/37362-poor-heater-performance/

When replacing the alternator, it's possible to disconnect the shift cable linkage underneath the air filter box. One possible way to check this is if the shifter moves smoothly but the transmission lever on doesn’t move. if this is the problem, remove the air filter housing box to look deep at the top of the transmission. Look for the shift cable. It terminates with a small metal lever with a plastic bushing. If the cable is hanging loose just snap it back on. Another possibility is low voltage to the electronic shift solenoids. If the alternator power wire accidentally grounds against the frame during installation, it could have blown a fuse killing the transmission control module. Check fuse 56 (or whichever fuse controls the TCM in your car.)

That's the correct p/n. Note that it's also sold under the short part number DY-1317. There could be different numbers stamped on the side of the module. Possibilities include: BA1T-9G768-AM BA1T-9G768-AJ BA1T-9G768-AK BA1T-9G768-AH

Could be a broken shift cable bushing (theres a Recall on this.) If the shifter feels loose or disconnected and does not change gears properly, the The plastic bushing at the transmission end of the cable has broken. (This is a known issue covered by NHTSA Recall 22V-413, and affects 2011-2014 Ford Edges.) the fix is to your dealership to have the bushing replaced for free.

With both both weak heat and weak cooling, my initial guess would be a faulty blend door actuator. This would be especially true if the air flow is sufficient but it just isn't hot or cold enough. (If the airflow weak it suggests a different problem.) First try a reset. 1. Turn the vehicle off. 2. Press and hold the system power button and the front defrost button at the same time, for about 5 seconds. 3. Then release and press the power button again. (This forces the system to recalibrate the climate doors.)

Because you stated you smell gas when put in gear suggests a damaged or cracked charcoal canister or hose.

Yes, your 4-cylinder 2.0L EcoBoost engine requires SAE 5W-30 oil. 5W-20 oil will thin out at operating temperatures and will not maintain a protective film between moving metal parts. Most critically, the turbos are at greatest risk. They spin at +150,000 RPM and uses oil to cool and lubricate the bearings. 5W20 will break down (get too thin) under this extreme heat, leading to bearing wear or turbo failure. Replace it immediately with 5W30.

If we can assume that the LEDs were aftermarket, there's a possibility that the LED were installed with an external driver box (a small metal/plastic rectangle attached to the wire.) If so, did you also remove this adapter from the factory housing as well? (This additional harness must also be removed.) When installing the Halogen bulbs, wipe the glass with an alcohol wipe to remove any possible contamination. Never touch the glass with your fingers as it will leave oils from your finger and dramatically shorten the life of the bulbs.

Looking at the literature, there is apparently a gasket (located at the mid-pipe to catalytic converter) that degrades over time, or the flange ears can rust off. One suggestion to verify this is to connect the reverse output from a shop vac to the tailpipe with duct tape to make an air-tight connection. Then using a squirt bottle of soapy water, spray the solution on all the joints looking for soap bubbles from the air escaping. There should NOT be any places along a worn exhaust system where it's shinny nor have traces of black from carbon. (Telltale signs.) If you find even a small leak, have it fixed immediately as CO2 is dangerous inside the cabin.

Could also check Fuse #44. (Protects the rear seat release solenoids.)

Did you check the fuses?

"... so decided to open it up and change everything but the Cam phasers and chains. " Why on earth would you not change the timing chain? I can understand the reason for not changing the cam phasers as they'll set you back $500. But after tearing down the engine, and considering the milage, could be cheap insurance.

Probably violates Ford's OEM warranty.......

Could of things come to mind. With low oil pressure, rattling, and codes P0012 (Bank 1 over-retarded) and P0022 (Bank 2 over-retarded) after you replaced the water pump, it may be caused if the pump had failed and caused l coolant to leak into the oil. If so, this created a "milky" sludge that clogged the VVT solenoids. As to the rattling sound, if you reused hydraulic timing chain tensioner abd failed to bled it properly, it probably can't maintain pressure which causes the chain to slap against the guides.

This always happens to me on my 09 MKX. Rust on the rims. I pay my mechanic to sand the rim and then apply a tire sealant to the rim to prevent leaks. Have no problems with this process. Some mechanics' don't want to do this so make certain it's on the work order and verify they will do it; even if they charge extra. Learned this the hard way years ago. Tires slow leaked, continuously. Took it back to the Ford garage and had them take off the tire, sand to rims and apply sealant. Mechanic sanded the rims but didn't use sealant. Still slow leaked. Back to Ford and they tore off all 4 tires and applied sealant. Amazing how cooperative the service personnel can get when you ask to speak with the owner of the dealership about who should pay. (Make certain the specify both sanding and sealant on the work order.)

Did the same thing when I had a tire that couldn't be patched. Old ones had about 10k on them, so I had my mechanic pop on 4-new 245/50 R20 Pirelli Scorpion Verde's. New ones are actually smoother and quieter than the one ones. I'm particular when it comes to tires or brakes. I want the best at all times. (Could be the difference between life and death.)

As i understand it, the rubber plugs found on the bottom of car doors can serve different functions. One is to prevent road salt, dust, and water from entering the inner door cavity from the outside. They also act as one-way valves, allowing water that entered through the window seals to drain out. They also act as cleaning access. You to remove them to spray out dirt inside to door. They also alliow mechanics to spray rust prevention coatings into the door's interior without needing to drill new holes. And lastly for sound proofing. They help reduce wind noise from entering the interior. .

While most of the pre 2018 cars used two CR2025 batteries, some standard flip keys or older-style fobs may used a single CR2032. Best to check before buying. BTW, I've never changed the batteries in my 2009 MKX fob.)There good for the life of the car, like PTU fluid, right?)

Ran across this video and remembered your post. May or May not help. (BTW, this can happen to any car. Its mostly environmental and caused when the rubber lines its crosslinking and reverts to its original form.) Caused by high values of UV, ozone and high humidity. You can prevent this by periodically wiping all of your weatherstripping with 303. (It's what I use, and there are other products, but this is the best.)

Sometimes when you replace the vehicle battery the temporary loss of power can cause various control modules (such as the ones you mentioned) to corrupt their nonvolatile memory. There's a couple of things you can try, first (as you mentioned) drive around at a steady speed of 25–30 mph for several minutes. This will usually allow the ABS module to relearn its calibration. Then with the car still running and in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right (lock-to-lock). This should reset the steering angle sensor. A second method is to disconnect one of the battery cables and then trun on the headlights. (They won't come on, but the load should discharge the internal capacitors located in the integrated modules. Leave the battery disconnected for 10 minutes. When reconnecting the battery lead, don't allow the cable to "touch and break" (that is throw sparks.) This causes a voltage "hash" to flow through the car's modules and screw up the modules memories. Always just press the battery cable connector down tight to the battery post (not necessarily connected) and then keep it in contact with the post while you work it on and tighten. Making sparks during a connection sends voltage spikes through the modules through the "keep alive power" feeds. Bad for car, great in bed. 😗🎶

Had to look this one up. Here's what I found. The icon usually appears when playing media from a connected device such as a USB drive or a Bluetooth-paired phone. The system cycles through three distinct states. Oval (Off) Plays your current playlist or album normally and stops after the last track. Horizontal U-turn (Repeat All) Continuously loops the entire current folder, album, or playlist. Oval with a "1" (Repeat One) Continuously loops only the specific song currently playing.

Two faults are normally responsible. The first is the contacts on the switch are corroded and the switch will need to be replaced. Water gets in door interior through window weatherstripping and drips onto switch (located on back of latch. Typ around $300 at dealer but owner doable. (Seen a video where repair was to remove interior door interior, disconnect wires to switch and then remove & replace switch without removing larch, etc. Difficult, but doable, as way up inside and must work by feel. Second is break in harness. Usually (but not always) occurs at point where most bending occurs. Inside to rubber boot in the door/frame intersection. .

There's a new safety recall for the following Goodyear tires. NHTSA Recall ID Number : 26T011 Synopsis : Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company (Goodyear) is recalling certain Eagle F1 Supersport tires, sizes 305/30ZR21 and 255/35ZR20. The tire tread may separate. Tread separation increases the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the tires, free of charge, or provide a refund. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed May 15, 2026. Owners may contact Goodyear's customer service at 800-321-2136.

Changed the cabin air filter and engine air filter today. Old ones had been in for almost exactly 2 years. (Thats 16 years, in car years..... ) Took around 4 minutes for the cabin air filter, and around 10 minutes for the engine air filter. Had a hell of a time getting the air box clips back on. Became a test of willpower. Almost had the back clip on and it decided to pop off and fall under the car where I couldn't reach it easily. Finally retrieved it with a grabber and we had a long talk about why it shouldn't do that using boot camp language. It still resisted until I got a pair of large plyers and humiliated it. ... snort. Finished up by printing labels with the date and sticking on filter covers (cause I can't remember shit about when I do maintenance.) [ filter changed. ] [ 04/16/2026. ]

If you can lift the rear hatch open manually and it stays open, the struts are good. If it's really heavy, or doesn't stay open after you lift it full open position, the struts are bad. (The struts are responsible to provide the main lifting force. If they fail, the motor will sense the overload and stop any attempt to life the hatch.) If after you initiate an open procedure, you hear it unlock and hear the motor try, it may be the body control module may be out if sync. (If may actually forget how to open after unlocking.) To fix this possibility, disconnect the negative vehicle battery cable, and step on the break pedal for 30 seconds (drains the residual currents from the capacitors in the modules.) Leave the battery disconnected for another 10 minutes. The body control module will reset. If after the latch unlocks but you hear no motor, its possible the fuse has blown. Think it's #7 in the fuse panel located in your engine compartment. (2013 Edge). If ok, then suspect the liftgate motor itself; or a wiring problem. The most likely location of a wiring break is the yellow wire that located in the rubber boot that connects the body to the hatch.