enigma-2

I also used the push the opener purple (learn) button, then the homelink button on the visor. However, I held the homelink button until the opener light blinked (indicating it connected.)

Seen a guy on YouTube who fixed his camera by going into the hatch and just remounting the camera upside down...!

Try a radio reset and a sync reset. (Pull fuses, leave out for several minutes, then replace.) Bad connector connections can also cause problems. Possibly the vehicle battery is getting weak, could run test on amout of amp-hours remaining. (Voltage test doesn't work on modern cars.)

You can request all of your service records, including your DD214 on the VA website. I just ordered two more certified copies of my DD224 last year. Took about 3 weeks. (No cost of course.) https://www.va.gov/records/get-military-service-records/ You said you're 80. Vietnam vet? If so, apply immediately for Agent Orange exposure. Agent Orange will bump you to 60% at a minimum. Even if you weren't in Nam, exposure to fire pits still qualifies. -> Important, apply before Trump takes office. Hes stated he intends to stop vets from claiming. Also have your family doctor send a complete list of all you medications over to your VA doctor. You can get all your drugs through the VA at minimal cost (less than Part D policy.) If you’re in priority groups 2 — 8. tier 1 meds are $5 tier 2 meds are $8 tier 3 meds are $11 (Thrse prices are for a 30 day supply, for a 90 day supply multiply by 3) (Priority group 1 is no copay, = 50% disability rating.) If you have a service-connected rating of 40% or less, and your income falls at or below the national income limits, your meds are free. The max copay out-of-pocket is $700 per calendar year.

https://a.co/d/blbrqAt

Id imagine that the 12 hours also included the time the car was on the life draining (must drain every drop) and 4 hours wait to allow the RTV to cure. Not all of that is billable. Honestly I'd go with replacing the pan gasket as the cost is probably minimal while they're down there (and avoids oil drippage on the garage floor.)

Yaaaaaaa, I've had the urge to rip the drivers door off my MKX at times, but so far, I've managed to resist it.

Word of advice. Just don't let your wife know. In 20 years she'll bring it up at the least opportune time.

Happened to me as well. Just replace the stem; its not going to repaitlr itself and will probably fail went you're on the freeway or middle of nowhere. At night. (Mine ruptured.) The OEM valve cores they use today are Chinese. Some are good, some are crap. When mine went bad, I requested they use OEM. Service rep told me the OEM were Chinese, and same as aftermarket, only more expensive. There are some US made cores, but at $15 each ......

Don't have the problem on my 2009 MKX, but if i did, I'd just buy a 21.5 mm socket (what it was designed for) and let the OEM nuts swell. Here's one example of a 21.5 mm impact socket. DAKCOS 1/2-inch Drive 20.5 x 21.5 mm Impact Lug Nut Flip Socket, Half Size Ford Lug Nut Socket, CR-MO https://a.co/d/9lDsd2J

I've read where replacing the TPMS module corrected this. There is one more wive's tail I've heard about. Doesn't cost anything to try. Start the car and place the keyfob into the I-have-no-fob-battery "spot" and let it sit there for 5 minutes. It supposedly reprograms the car/FOB connection.

Low transmission fluid Worn transmission clutch paks Faulty TCM Faulty AWD Worn tires Engine mounts

It is my understanding that the cause of the PTU failures is due to excessive heat from the engine exhaust and Cat. It overheats the lubricant and causes it to boil and thicken; forcing it to be ejected out of the vent. It smalls terrible as well. It loses its ability to lubricate the bearings and seals; causing their failure. This is how my PTU failed. In later versions of the PTU, the did a modification and increased the size of the main bearing and revamped the seals (i haven't verified this, its what they told me when they replaced mine.) No drain however, still stating lifetime lubricant. (Dealer still recommends drain and fill at 30k intervals.)

Plus you can always check to see what updates are installed. Tap Settings or the Home icon (varies by software version) on your vehicle's SYNC screen. Select Software Updates. Press Update Details to display any pending updates and previous update details.

Engine is tuned complaint to the OEM exhaust back pressure. From what I've read, modifying the exhaust changes timing (slightly), I think it changes the fuel trims, and the emissions. Believe the engine scavenging is based on the back pressures in the exhaust. Don't know if or how much the systems can compensate. As for how hard, crawl under car and look for yourself. (Dont know what your mechanical ability is.) My recommendation? Don't. Lot of work and you can't drive the car on the street.

Thought that the PTU drain plug was added starting on the 2015 model year. Definitely there on the 2019. Or was were models that still got the 1st gen PTUs?

As the 2007 mkx did not come with remote start nor was any offered for dealer installation, I would strongly recommend you seek professional installation. I strongly doubt this will work. It will need additional components to integrate with the security system. I have a 2009 and looked into the Lincoln remote start kit years ago. It was running around $500 for the kit, contained modules and miles of wiring (exaggeration) and hours of installation. Think dealer quoted 3½ hours. Still have the instruction in PDF around here somewhere. Great read if you're bored. Before you cut a single wire, talk with a local professional installer and see what they say. Sorry I can't give you a positive answer, but if it was easy, I'd done it years ago.

Belts will squeal when wet. As the run the get, dry out and stop. As it occurs when the belts are cold, an accessory belt would be my first suspect. Any possibility that its coming from inside the cabin and just sounding like its coming from the engine compartment? An hvac motor will squeal when the lubrication is dry. As it continues to run, it picks up some lube and stops squealing. Mine did this. Very sporadic, finally narrowed it down. Pulled it and ran superb into the bearings. Been at least five years now and not a peep.

Model, year, engine, mileage. Did you use OEM or aftermarket junk, etc. When you changed coils, did you replace plugs and boots?

Unless of course you made the mistake of buying one of these Japanese models: • Mazda RX-8 (engine failure, power steering jerks, excessive oil consumption and numerous recalls) • Mitsubishi Eclipse (rims damaged easily, tires wore out quickly, interior was cheaply made, which caused interior parts to break, and there were problems with automatic transmissions, power train components, and steering. 1999 model in particular.) • Honda CRX Del Sol (roof leaks, noisy cabin, brake rotors warped easily. Owners rated it nothing short of a lemon. • Suzuki Samurai and Suzuki X-90 (which had the cute habit of flipping during sharp maneuvers.) • And from my own experience, I bought one of the very first Toyota Celicas in the US (Still on the truck when I bought it.) It had the wonderful idiosyncrasy of burning out points every three thousand miles. (I got to be an expert in replacing points on the beast. Could do it in five minutes, start to finish.) Other than that, I loved that car, until I totalled it.

As @dabangsta stated. It's the plugs that get worn, the gap widens, and the plugs draw more current (to fire across the larger gap.) More current, more heat. More heat, eventual coil failure. If they fail by shorting, they take out the PCM. If they fail by opening, just the coil needs changing. When replacing the plugs at 90k (max) also change the coil boots. The boots are rubber material and will harden with age and allow the plug to short out. (Which causes misfires.)

As you stated, there are two weep holes and it does sound like to lower on is showing a leak. 1. Maintain a close check on your oil. Any evidence of coolant intrusion will change to oil to look like a milk shake. Its important that you take immediate action when this occurs as it dilutes the oil and it loses its ability to lubricate. 2. Maintain your coolant levels. Even though its just a drip, you don't want to coolant lever to get low. Use the same coolant that came with the engine. Never mix coolants. (If you need to change to a newer coolant, do a flush and remove all traces of the old coolant.) 3. This was discussed here in the forum back in 2019 (here) Skim down to the excellent response from @WWWPerfA_ZN0W. 4. Keep in mind that that the water pump has two gaskets. An inner one and an outer one. When the inner one leaks, it shows at the drip hole (as yours is apparently doing.) Its an early warning to service the water pump. When the outer one leaks, it leaks into the crankcase and dilutes to oil. Other than oil dilution, there's no warning for the outer one. (The early warning is the leak from the weep hole.) 5. You said that you can't afford the $2500 to replace the pump. You should be aware that there's a class action lawsuit against Ford on their use of bad bearings in the pump that contributes to leaking. (Don't know how far along the suit is, but could check and get your name on list.) https://fordauthority.com/2024/01/ford-water-pump-lawsuit-settlement-ends-class-action/#:~:text=According to the lawsuit%2C defective,washes out the bearing lubricant. But in any case, check often so that it doesn't start leaking into the oil and kill the engine.

The sell on Amazon. Look it up and see if they ref your 2024. Dorman 600-234XD Patented Power Transfer Unit Assembly Compatible with Select Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Models (OE FIX) https://a.co/d/3K0kHZo

True enough, but the Dorman model had a built-in heat shield, drain and fill plugs (no advantage for 2019+) and improved seals. Usually don't like Dorman parts, but in this one situation, worth considering. I had mine replaced a couple of years ago under extended warranty. They replaced with an upgraded model. But if this one needs replacing, I'd consider this Dorman model.