enigma-2

Yup, same here. Every once in awhile my MKX will wait until I park it in the garage and then it puts the drivers seat all the forward and lowers the backrest all the way down onto the back seat. I open the door and it sits there smiling at me. We have a good laugh about the tricks its learned and then I have to put the seat back where I can enter and start the car. Once it did it while I was driving. We had a long talk about why it shouldn't do that, and its never done it since. Ah, what fun modern cars can be. Can't wait until home robots become common. 😁

Pulled this from another site. The message is a Master Warning Alert indicating a critical safety or mechanical issue. The red upside-down triangle with an exclamation point is a general warning flag. your car may have been warning you to "Pull Over Safely" (or that it has entered "Limp Mode".) May be able to pull it up as a stored code.

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, haven't been on the site for awhile. This is the easiest and fastest way to clean the a/c evaporator housing. https://a.co/d/09ftGtMJ

Hundreds of videos on YouTube. Here's an example for pulling a dent (I've never tried it, I've always sucked at bodywork.)

Might be easier to find if you were to run a 1/4" hose down through a a/c grill, and pour about a pint of water down into the base of the a/c evaporator case. This would simulate normal behavior on steroids and you could watch where the condensate drains out.

On Auto Surgeon, they wrote that on a 2020 Ford Edge ST, with a 2.7L engine, this exact problem specifically occurs around 2,000 RPM under acceleration. They wrote that this is a well-documented symptom. It is typically caused by exhaust system resonance or a loose factory heat shield. "The 2.7L EcoBoost engine and its specific exhaust configuration are highly prone to vibrating at this precise RPM frequency, transferring vibrations into components underneath the vehicle or near the firewall." .

Besides a low (or high) pressure fuel pump, a stuck-open purge valve is a common point of failure for Ford EcoBoost engines. (Did you install a Motorcraft valve?) .

Not the cheapest, this is the one I have. 4.8 stars. https://a.co/d/06rqVQyB

The ac drain location on the 2022 Edge is located underneath the vehicle, hidden on the center tunnel wall just behind the engine and exhaust heat shield, near the driver's side footwell area. Ford claims that the reason the hid it, was to protect it from road debris. It sits over high the transmission tunnel hump, where the exhaust downpipe drops from the engine, and is completely covered by the silvery fiberglass exhaust heat shield. To reach it, lift the vehicle, locate the transmission tunnel, and gently pull back or unfasten the corner of the heat shield fabric right next to the driver-side floorboard area. The drain presents as a small white plastic nipple protruding slightly from the firewall. After you unblock the clog, I recommend using an evap cleaner to kill the mold that may still be lingering in the case. https://a.co/d/08lGMqQ3 .

If you suspect charcoal dust is causing this (and its a very real problem) just replacing the purge valve will not fix the problem that initially caused it. If the canister is still shedding carbon dust or particles, the canister is bad and must be replaced. After replacing the canister, remove the rubber lines between the canister and the engine's purge valve and blow out all the lines to remove any trapped charcoal dust. Then install a new purge valve. The cause is usually caused by overfilling when gassing up. When you get gas, stop when the pump shuts off and never try to "top off" the tank.

An old mechanic's trick to "trick" the BCM into thinking the door is closed, is to trip the lock mechanism on the side of the door (where the puller stub goes in and trips the latch when the door is closing) with a screwdriver. When you do this, you will not be able to close the door, until you trip it open again. But it allows you to keep the door open while the car goes to sleep.

I don't believe they will fit. Ford performed a major mid-cycle facelift for the 2011 model year, transitioning from "Generation 1", which ran from 2007 through 2010. To "Generation 1.5", 2011 through 2014. Because of this generational split, individual parts can (and will) vary widely. What's known not to fit. Rear Shock Absorbers. This would be a main point of incompatibility. The lower mounting bolt on the 2011 Ford Edge is much thicker than the bolt used on the 2008 model. The mounting hardware and sleeve dimensions are completely different, meaning the 2011 shock eyelet will not bolt safely or securely to a 2008 lower control arm. Those areas that are known to be compatible. The rear coil springs share the same physical dimensions and will fit the 2007–2014 models. (But keep in mind that the spring rates vary depending on whether the donor car had a standard suspension or the 20-inch wheel "Sport" suspension package.) Also, some upper and lower trailing links share the same geometric dimensions, but because bushing sleeves and bolt diameters changed during the 2011 refresh, you would run into a problem here. It would be best if you obtained 2008 year-specific rear end parts. You might get the 2011 parts to fit, and you may not (at least its unlikely to be plug and play. (I wouldn't attempt it unless I was absolutely certain.

Post reminded me of a song from Little Anthony and the Imperials. "Shimmy, Shimmy, Koko Bop." (Before your time, don't worry about it, mind wondering.) (Again.) (grunt)

I believe that the Motorcraft Super Duty BRSD pads are semi-metallic pads. They are intended for Edges & MKXs with the factory tow pkg. (More fade resistant and better stopping power under heavier loads.) It's what i have on my 2009 MKX; and I'm satisfied. Have the Pirelli Scorpion's as well. Very satisfied. Years ago ran Michelins. Good tires for the first 20k or so, then got through the great soft rubber in the tread and into the rubber that gives it the extra long milage and couldn't stand the roughness and loudness. You're going to find the Pirelli's are really good tires and stay consistent throughout their life. A recommendation if I may. Have the break fluid changed when you so the brake job. People don't realize that brake fluid gets scalding hot in use, and it's hygroscopic, meaning it naturally acts like a sponge and absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. As moisture accumulates in the brake fluid, and gets heated over and over, it starts to break down. This drastically lowers the fluid's boiling point and cause the brake fluid to boil under hard use. Boiling turns the liquid into gas bubbles and because gas compresses easily, your brakes will begin to feel soft. This is another important factor which can (significantly) increase your stopping distance.

Could be a thousand things. When you turn the car to "on", do you hear the low pressure fuel pump in the gas tank?