enigma-2

For a 2008 Ford Edge the "PowerStop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Kits" are considered the absolute best aftermarket replacement. (heh) (Make certain you're sitting down before clicking the link to the Powerstop page.) https://share.google/evDGs27DahsrqDt07 Before I go any further, I need to point out to remember that the OEM brakes are sufficient at locking the wheels. At that point, the brakes are no longer any consideration whatsoever. Then it falls to the width of the tires and the tread depth and design as to stopping the car. Any braking before reaching total lock up is simply the amount of pressure you apply to the peddle. (I'm big on OEM parts ) Personally, I have a 2009 a Lincoln MKX which (I believe) has the same braking setup as your 2008 Edge. I went with the Motorcraft pads and rotors, and I'm completely satisfied with them. (As a sidenote, my rear pads also had plenty of life on them (approx 110k miles) but I replaced them anyways. Glad I did. So, there are a couple of items you need to consider for your 2008 Edge. First is whether you have a FWD or a RWD car. There's a slight difference in the shape of the rear pads. (Theres also a change in the caliper pin torque specs between the two.) Also, Ford instituted a rolling change on Edge brake systems during the 2008 model year. You should make a note of the month and year of the build of your car (this was a mid-year change.) Check the manufacturer's the manufacturing sticker located inside your driver's door jamb to identify your exact build month and year. This ensures the anti-rattle clips included in your Motorcraft pad kit will snap correctly into your calipers. Last consideration, if your car has a factory towing package and you tow or haul heavy loads. For OEM Motorcraft performance, best for Daily Driving (non-towing) would be the standard premium BR series. For FWD or RWD 2008 Ford Edge: FRONT PADS: BR-1258-D (fits all 2008 regardless of drivetrain layout. It includes all necessary anti-rattle replacement hardware clips.) REAR PADS: FWD: Motorcraft 7U2Z-2V200-D. REAR PADS for AWD: BR-13396. (Do not use this set on FWD as it is designed with different backing plate alignment tabs specific to All-Wheel Drive.) According to the literature, they "deliver an incredibly quiet ride, low brake dust, and long-lasting pad life without wearing down your rotors prematurely." The best pads for towing & hauling are the Motorcraft Super Duty (BRSD) Series. Again, from the literature, "these semi-metallic pads are constructed to handle intense heat, offering superior resistance to brake fade when moving down long downhill grades under load. The tradeoff, they generate darker, more visible dust on your front wheels and are more prone to occasional cold-weather squealing." (These are what I have (I also have the factory towing package.) The dust isn't bad and the braking is sufficient for daily driving. (But, then again, I don't drive aggressively.) No complaints at all. For rotors. For FWD Front Brake Rotors with 12.60-inch diameter are the Motorcraft BRRC-72. (These are interchangeable with BRR-241). For AWD, Rear Brake Rotors with solid discs, use Motorcraft BRRC-85. These are interchangeable with BRR-226). For AWD, the front are the same as the FWD. For the rear with AWD, use the Motorcraft BR-13396. These are also interchangeable with the 7U2Z-2V200-E). The main difference i believe is that these use specialized pad backing plate tabs, which are meant to anchor into AWD rear brake calipers and do not fit FWD cars. Beware of any after market kits that try to sell you 'one size fits all, as there are differences. .

As you're responding to a thread more than seven years old, it's unlikely you'll get an answer.

My 09 MKX still has the original Purge Valve. (But then I never top off.)

OK, my opinion. Remove that K&N cabin air filter and throw it in the trash..! Bold statement, here's why I have a problem with K&N cabin air filters. There are actually several negative problems associated with K&N cabin air filters (as compared to standard and premium, disposable paper filters.) While they "do" increase HVAC airflow and are reusable, these are not really a good thing. K&N focus heavily on maximizing airflow. In doing so, the mesh design allows more ultra-fine dust and pollen to bypass the filter compared to a regular paper media. They dont have an activated carbon layer as found in standard "premium" filters. (The K& N is a premium filter.) With no carbon layer, they cannot neutralize outside exhaust smells or odors. They don't have a HEPA rating (a.k.a. they don't filter out pollen, small, tight dust, mold spores, and exhaust. Their expensive. A standard disposable paper filter costs between $10, while a K&N cabin filter typically runs between $40 to $60. While they are designed to be reused by cleaning, you can't wash it with regular soap and water..! This will destroy its "special" properties. You must purchase a special K&N Cabin Air Filter Refresher Kit for roughly $15 to $20. This destroys any chance to break even for at least 4 years. Possibly 5. Suppose its minor, but replacing a standard filter takes 20 minutes. (I can change mine in 5.) But, cleaning a K&N requires spraying it down, cleaning it with the special K&N Cabin Air Filter Refresher Kit, rinsing it out, require a special electrostatic refresher spray after every wash to attract more dust and then letting it completely air-dry. Then it can be reinstalled. A 10-minute project suddenly turns into an hour or more. No airflow arrows on filters to indicate which side faces airflow. This allows the filter to be accidentally installed backwards. (Big complaint from the Toyota forum on Facebook) "The high-volume mesh material can occasionally introduce a faint whistling or whining noise through your dashboard vents when the AC fan is set to its highest speed." (Again from Facebook, 2016- 2023 Toyota Tacoma Owners) I just bought a brand new filter for my MKX, (new brand to the market.) It's a "Febreze" Pureflow, which is supposed to block 99% of all pollution and dust, (wife has asthma), carbon layer to block carbon monoxide, and a baking soda layer to neutralize odors. (The Febreze is unsented.) $20 on Amazon. Haven't installed it yet, we'll see.

Watching a video where the technician attached a pico scope to the Ford Explorer gateway module, which (on this car) is attached directly to the DLC connector. (The DLC connector is molded into the case of the gateway.) .

Its been my experience that the Ford brake parts are of good quality. (Of course that's only my "opinion".) Its my understanding that the reasons for pulsating rotors are almost always from over heating the brakes. Such as riding the brakes (keeping constant, light pressure on the pedal while descending long hills generates non-stop friction and extreme heat) or repeated hard stops from high speeds (doesn't give the rotors time to cool down.) Another is when you slam on your brakes and then keeping the brake pedal held down (such as a hard stop at a red light.) The resin in the superheated pad essentially melts and leaves a microscopic sticky deposit on the rotor. I don't believe that there's any real difference between the steel on one rotor and another. Pads vary, but its really driving that is the primary contributor to "warped" rotors.

Thats all the information I have access to. Perhaps HAZ has something in the service manuals. The module is responsible for feeding information to the OBD-II port, so the cable should run directly to the module. Were there any instructions accompanying the alarm?

I know this is old, but just seen it. The circle with the letters GPS and a line through it means SYNC has lost communication with the GPS satellites. Several possibilities include: 1. The car is in a area blocking the signal (garage, tunnel, dense tree canopies, etc. (Try again making certain your car has a clear view of the sky.) 2. There was a electronic crash or a corrupted software update. (Try a soft reset. Press and hold the Audio Power button and the Seek Right / Fast Forward button (→) at the exact same time. Hold down for 10 seconds until the screen goes completely black. Release the buttons and the system will reboot. It will show the Ford logo and reestablish a satellite handshake.) 3. The privacy settings in your car's menu may have accidentally toggled the GPS location permissions to "Off". (Try a software refresh. On your screen tap "Settings". Tap "FordPass Connect" and then "Connectivity Settings" {or just Connectivity if your SYNC doesn't have FordPass.} Locate the "Location" slider and turn it Of. Wait ait 10 seconds then turn it back On.) If after you follow the above fixes and the crossed-out GPS icon, it means there is probably a hardware issue. Couple of possibilities inclue: 1. The GPS antenna failed (or the blue coaxial wire has come loose under the dashboard.) 2. Or the APIM is failing.

1. Summer air is better because it makes your tires look sexier. 2. Winter air causes tire shrinkage on hot payment. 3. Winter air makes your tires look like blocks of ice. Summer air gives them that sleek, curvy look that makes all the other cars in the parking lot "jealous." 4. Winter air is way too heavy in the warm months, and creates massive rolling resistance. Premium summer air is lighter and molecularly "streamlined." It makes the tires roll noticeably smoother. It improves fuel economy by at least five miles per gallon. (Summer air literally pays for itself in gas savings.) 5. Summer air catches the light summer breezes and helps the tires to roll faster. Of course y'all know all this, just "preaching to the choir." .

Change brake fluid, engine air filter, cabin air filter, spare tire pressure, pwr steering fluid, coolant, replace air in tires with summer air, check blinker fluid, etc.

Did you ever get this fixed?

I may have found the fix in the F150 forum, where they have seen simular problems. The cause of the problem is most likely a failing Transmission Range Sensor. When your Edge reaches operating temperature, heat expansion causes an electrical open circuit or glitch inside the sensor. The TRS completely loses track of what gear the car is in, which triggers all three of your symptoms simultaneously. The symptoms may feel like they are separate issues, but they are all tied to this particular sensor. The PCM uses the signal from the TRS to know which gear is selected. Because the PCM is getting blank or corrupted data from the TRS, it cannot output a gear position (P, R, N, D, S) to the digital instrument cluster. Also, when the TRS signal drops out while you're driving, the PCM gets confused and drops hydraulic pressure which causes the transmission to slip out of gear. If the TRS starts working again, it generates a signal the the PCM and the PCM will attempt to re-engage the transmission. This will cause lurching). The reason the rear camera activates is when the TRS is corrupted, its outputting a false reverse gear signal, which causes the BCM to believe that the transmission is in reverse; and turn on the backup camera display. The reason the dealer didn't find any codes is probably due to, when the 6F50/6F55 TRS faults, is usually doesn't set a "permanent" code, such as a P0705 or similar. The code it dies set, is reset when you cycle the key. By the time you drive it to the dealer and they scan it, the system doesn't retain a code. Since the dealer cannot reproduce it, you need to alert them to this possibility and tell them that you suspect an intermittent internal "Transmission Range Sensor / Leadframe" fault that occurs only at operating temperature. The technician will need to drive the car with a factory scan tool hooked up, specifically monitoring the "TR_D" (Transmission Range Desired) and "TR_A" (Transmission Range Actual) PIDs. They'll watch for the signal to drop or turn to eith Fault or Unknown when the vehicle gets hot. (Make certain when you take it in you have a full tank of gas as it may have to be driven many miles before the test begins. Or before the module faults.) You can also record a video the next time this happens. Showing this video to the service manager bypasses the "cannot reproduce" problem. .

Did you start at the OBD-II port and follow the harness back?

My guess is the whirring sound you are hearing is probably coming from the car's ABS pump. When your car sits for a while, the hydraulic pressure inside the ABS system slowly bleeds down. When you get in and press the brake pedal, (even if the car is not runnung), this triggers the ABS control module to wake up, run a self-test and prime the system. The 5-second whirring you hear is the internal electric pump motor building hydraulic pressure. Taking your foot off the pedal cuts the electrical circuit, stopping the pump.

I've read that some owners have fixed the torque converter shudder problem by adding an anti-shudder fluid conditioner (such as Lubegard Shudder Fixx) at a fluid change. Also need to change your fluid at 25k mime intervals. .