enigma-2

Have figured it out yet?

No way. They will only provide the camera to an authorized Ford dealer to install. (Besides, it won't cost you anything; let them do it.) As its intermittent, it may not qualify under 25S89. (Has to be dead of distorted - all the time.) As it's intermittent, I'd suspect green crusties at the camera connector.

First thing I'd suspect is your spare tire blew. (As its pressured at 55 psi, it would deliver a good bang. Usually the value core is what fails.) But, seeing how its happened 3x .... If this happened only on the highway, the most common cause is a tire kicked up a large rock that slammed into the underside of the wheel well. They can make a deafening bang. A car just idling, sounds like its the amp that either shorted or a loose connection at the amp. (Rear right hand side is the woofer and amp.)

Look for the OBD-II port. (Where you plug in a scan tool.) This port is physically attached right to the bottom of the Gateway Module assembly. If you follow your OBD-II port up behind the plastic trim, your hand will go straight to the GWM. To access the module you need to remove the lower plastic trim panel located underneath the steering wheel. (It's held in place by a few plastic clips and 7mm or 10mm screws.) Once the panel is removed, look up to the right of the steering shaft. You will see a rectangular plastic module box with multiple prominent wiring harnesses plugged into it. This is the exact location where you will perform the "T-harness" pass-through installation.

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Seems like a lot of unnecessary cost and work for something that won't make any difference in stopping power.

Why hold back? Go Bosozoku. Never been done on an Edge.

Thats pretty much true of all parts. Get OEM whenever possible. Buy once, cry once.

Have OEM rotors and pads, never had a single problem, work great. Never understood why go aftermarket, some setups fade less, but I never had the need for heavy braking. Don't stop any faster (than OEM), in a panic stop the brakes lock the wheels and stopping distance is reliant on tire width (amount of tire in contact with the ground.) In a average stop, it comes down to pad material and Ford is excellent quality. Slotted rotors are slightly worst in daily driving (less rotor material for friction), but do fade less on a race track. (I don't need to make 5 or more hard stops in a row.) Now, as far as whats the best oil .... (g)

There's a couple of work-arounds, but the best way is to update the database. Quick review of the process: first ensure that your USB drive has at least 8 GB of space. Make sure your USB is empty and formatted to FAT32 (for SYNC versions before SYNC 3) or exFAT (for SYNC 3 and later). (If uncertain, reformate the drive.) Updates take around 1/2 hour and car has to be running during this time, so if you want the Ford garage to do it, figure 1/2 hour of labor. One of the work-arounds is to move your music to a USB drive or SD card. Then plug it into the media hub inside the center console. Make certain you music is formatted to either MP3 or M4A and properly tagged with metadata. (You can use a free PC tool like Mp3tag to add artist names and embed album cover images directly into the files. I did this years ago and it's a pita.) You can also burn files as a MP3 CD rather than a standard Audio CD. The Ford Edge CD player reads MP3 discs and will display the file tags on the screen.

Its not really possible to answer your question with the limited information posted. However, you may be better helped by talking with Crutchfield at 1-800-555-7088. Have your car info and new radio model ready. Most likely it requires a custom harness and these guys can whip one up for you.

Typically vinyl wrap will last 3‐— 5 years. By using premium vinyl, it can stretch to 5—7 years under "ideal" conditions. Cheaper, thicker vinyl usually lasts only 1—2 years before it starts shrinking and cracking. "Premium brands like 3M or Avery Dennison will typically last 5—7 years. They are highly pliable, thin, and conform excellently to complex curves." Remember that when this stuff gets old, you have to remove it. (and it's an absolute pain to remove.)

How did this turn out? If the problem still exists, did you check the BMS? The BMS is located on the negative battery terminal. If its failing the PCM can miscalculate the charging needs. Try unplugging the BMS sensor temporarily. If the intermittent charging stops and defaults to a steady ~13.5V to 13.8V, your alternator is physically capable of charging, and the issue is likely a bad BMS sensor.

Ever get this fixed? One other thing that can cause thus is a tripped or locked Field Effect Transistor circuit inside the Body Control Module. One way to test this is turn the headlight switch on, disconnect the main wire plug from the back of the broken headlight assembly and check to see if there's power to the lighs power pin. (On the passenger side, the power wire is blue with green stripe.) If there's no voltage to the power pin the BCM has locked out the headlight. An easy fix for this is to use FORScan. Go to the service/configuration tab in FORScan and select BCM Module Reset (or possibly Front Light Control Module reset). Then clear the DTC error codes and this should reset the BCM.