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enigma-2

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  1. Good point. These air intakes pull in all kinds of junk. After taking my mkx to dealer for works couple years ago, got it back with severe dismissed hvac air flow. Went in through cabin filter opening and found it was full of torn-up foam pieces. After cleaning it out thought I'd see if I could find where it came from (of course that idiot service rep that did it. Calked the service mgr and told him I found his little gift, didn't appreciate it. Was there couple weeks later and idiot was gone.) Antway, had a hell of a time finding the inlet. On yours it's grilled, pointing up. On mine, it's covered with a heavy filter material and opens down in the engine compartment. Still, good advice.
  2. No codes? Besides evap, did you check for a dirty air filter? Any possibility one or more injectors dirty? How many miles on spark plugs? Plug boots in good condition?
  3. Been reported in the truck forum that the APIM has been found with broken solder joints. Before spending the bucks, joints. Could pop open the module and look for cracks in the traces or cold solder jounts.
  4. More likely that they needed 5 wire connector and had a 6 pin already spec'ed for a different application (money savings.l, less inventory. ) Back of my ACU has a plug where the rear camera plugs into. Only needs two wires but has pins for 10.
  5. Just for fun ... In as much as they didn't remove the hub, and they had to cut the broken stud off to get enough room to remove it; how did they get the new one on?
  6. It's possible that the pads could have pieces of metal or gunk embedded in them. Last brake job, did you put in OEM or aftermarket? Metallic or organic? (Organic is softer & quieter, tiny pieces of metal can embed in them and cause squeeking.)
  7. Tell us your car brand, model & year. Then tell us ehat sort of problem(s) are you having with your brakes? As you have replaced the Master cylinder, can rule that out. If you step on the break pedal, does it go to the floor? Have you pulled the wheels and checked to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking? Brake hoses leaking?
  8. May be easier and cheaper to just switch to a Weight-Distributing Hitch. Easily levels the towing vehicle, rides smother and limits sway. My dad and I towed a trailer all over the Midwest back in the 60's with one, worked great. Think it was a Reese. Harbor Freight sells one for less than a two hundred dollar bill.
  9. They're LED if I'm not mistaken (least that's what is states in the owners manual.) You're probably going to need a service manual and replace the assy. @HAZ?
  10. May not do any good, but you could run an self diagnostic mode on the speakers. Radio on, switch to AM or FM. On vehicles with an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the on/off button and the seek down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested. On vehicles without an audio control panel: Simultaneously press and hold the stering wheel switch seek left button and the steering wheel switch volume down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested.
  11. Next step is to contact Ford Corporate. 800-392-3673 (Mon-Fri 8:00am-8:00pm EST) Use your highly dissatisfied voice (squeekiest wheel ... grease)
  12. 8. If the test fluid turns yellow in gasoline engines or green in diesel engines, it indicates the engine has a combustion leak. If the test fluid remains blue, no combustion gas is present in the coolant indicating there is no combustion leak. If leaks are detected, have engine repaired by a qualified repair technician. Any possibility that there may be a leak from a cracked heater hose?
  13. @KoKo there are several kits available on Ebay. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/295777069979?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=p0rx1Sv3SRu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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