enigma-2

Feeling adventurous? These go in your side mirrors. $18 https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-amber-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-super-red-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights

$47 for either of the kits. https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/white-lens-sequential-blink-amber-led-side-mirror-lights-for-ford-edge-mk4-focus https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/smoke-lens-sequential-blink-amber-led-side-mirror-lights-for-ford-edge-mk4-focus

My PTU made a noise similar to this before they replaced it. Gets louder with speed. (Lack of lubrication.) .

Couldn't get the link to open. How about a local junk yard? If they're push pinned on, easy enough to pop off a wrecked car. .

After re-reading previous, on the standard hvac setups, the heat/cold is controlled by an actuator on one side or the other (forget which) and has a plastic rod that extends over to the other side to control that side. I've seen a report where the rod broke. (I think it controlled the passenger sidevand the rod simultaneously controlled the drivers side. Easiest way to check is to watch the heat/cool door on the drivers side and switch between heat & a/c. If the passenger door moves but the drivers doesn't, you found your problem. If both move, the core is partly clogged. On the duel systems, each side is controlled separately with separate actuators. There is a history of these actuators failing in the Ford line. Its possible that the core is clogged again. Rather uncommon however. Most common cause is by using different coolants. Mix the wrong types are they congel forming a thick goo, and block part of the heater core. Never read where a flush cleared it. Think it would be better to disconnect the heater hoses and do a power flush just on the heater core. I did this many years ago by connecting the harden hose to one side heater hose and opening the tap. (Back then, Prestone sold a kit, a tee, to tap into your heater hose with a garden hose threaded connection on the top of the tee. Designed to do a flush at each coolant change.) Anyway, it worked. (But I'm not advising. Heater cores are made cheaper today.) .

Lack of traction due to the low-friction surface. First thing I'd look at are the tires. (BTW, AWD or FWD)? If are all 4 tires same tread? Good tread? Any bald spots? Are all tires set at 35 psi? (Over pressure will cause wander, even on dry roads, but will magnify on snow.) Are these a good brand of tires? (Or did the dealer slap on a set of cheap junk to make it look like it had new tires?) (All tires perform worse on snow, but cheap tires tread design will perform really bad on snow.)

At this point I'd say you ruled out all other possibilities. I'll attach a copy of a Ford cooling system corrosion service bulletin. You may find it useful as to what additional parts to replace when doing a flush, etc. . 2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf

Flush won't harm a heater core unless its already compromised. Most of these problems are caused by an actuator. (Note in some cases the actuator is working but the shaft that runs between the two doors was broken. Even though the car didn't have a separate heating system, the passenger side was working but the shaft running over to the other side was broken.) Yours may be ok, but I'd verify that the actual doors are opening and closing properly before spending $3k. As the heater core was replaced in 2019, the only reason (that I'm aware of) that would cause a heater core to clog is by not changing coolant at 105k miles or by mixing different coolants without doing a complete flush. (I'm aware that the maintenance manual specifies 105k miles, but I change mine at 60k.)

Found this on the web. "The 2014 Ford Edge has an OEM camera system that uses a dedicated Local Interconnect Network (LIN) to communicate with the Body Control Module (BCM) and a shielded video signal to the Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM). Interfacing with this proprietary system using a generic aftermarket camera may be difficult and might require specialized adapters or professional installation." You may be better off using an aftermarket camera. •Red 12 volt power (from backup light wiring) •Black ground. •Yellow is video signal.

Don't have access to the wiring diagrams, so this is from other cars. Normally the glove box lamp wiring connects to a plug located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard, near the passenger side airbag area. (Will probably be wire tied to the frame.) The power for the glove light is integrated into the vehicle's general interior lighting circuit. Drop the glove box, look for the connector underneath the dash, near the vent duct on the passenger side. Should a two-wire connector. Did you see this post? .

Sounds like the PCV system is malfunctioning. I know on the 2.7 L, you're supposed to wait 15-30 minutes before checking to oil level, to allow it to drain down. Otherwise you'll get a low reading. .

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OEM valve? If yes, believe I'd smoke the vac lines again, may have caused a crack or something.

I would offer two possibilities. As you suspected, one very real possibility could be that the plastic valve cover is cracked, or the sealant has failed, creating an oil leak that drips into the spark plug wells. Another, (and more common possibility) is that oil was spilled during a past oil change and pooled in the spark plug well.

Good information. Don't know about others, but if I drive off with my cell's Bluetooth turned off, I get a warning message that no phones are paired. Can't tell you how many times this has happened over the years.