enigma-2

In my personal opinion, Honda makes the best engines (found in the better off brands.) As far as for use on cars, use only the white (or black) pressure washer tips. With gas powered pressure washers, the tips are color coated indicating their spray angle. The spray angle determines the cleaning pressure. The color codes are: Red for 0°, (heavy blasting, you could cut steel), Yellow for 15° (for tough cleaning) Green for 25° (general cleaning) White for 40° (delicate surfaces) and Black for 65° (mainly for use with or detergents or rinsing the soap off). There are a bunch of accessories you can buy for use with a power washer when washing cars. I have several, such as a foam cannon, wheel cleaner and final rinse solution thingie. Plenty of YouTube videos on this subject. Always use low pressure for cars and wood; higher pressures on concrete. Have a special attachment for cleaning driveway and patio. What used to take 4-5 hours, now only takes one. It's a rotary brush surface scrubber. (Buy the Yamaha brand, lot of Chinese junk sold on Amazon. Pay a little extra, worth it. Mine is 15 or 20 years old, still looks and works, like new.) As for the pressure sprayer itself, I bought mine at Sam's Club 15-20 years ago. (They usually carry top quality products that you can depend on.) Mine's an off brand, brand is Simpson, has 2800 psi @ 3.2 gpm which is plenty for my needs. I bought it because it had a Honda overhead cam engine, and it has ran perfectly over the years. Starts easily, every time. Even with year-old gas. (That should trigger a bunch of thou-shalt-not's ... grin)

Take it to your dealer. They can $read$ the code in the cars computer.

● You check your tire pressure. ● You check your transmission fluid level. ● You check your coolant level. ● You check your power steering fluid level. ● You check your brake fluid level. ● You check your oil level. ● You check your engine air filter. ● You check your cabin filter. ● You check your seat filter. ● You check your exterior. lights to verify everything's working. ...... What are you forgetting? ....... What's the one thing you should be checking but haven't since .... ???? •• Tire pressure of the spare tire, hidden away in the trunk. 🚗....

I believe thereake be some confusion about Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. There are two different types (Stops Rust Rust Reformer and Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Reformer) and have different chemical formulations, depending on the application method. Method #1 is an aerosol spray (consists of an oil-based, alkyd formula), and Methoid #2, a brush-on liquid, which consists of a water-based copolymer (sort if a milky white liquid.) The brush-on takes rust and turns it into a flat black, inert primer. The only type I've used is the brush on and have had good success with it. It stopped rust for years (until I sold the car.(

If you only drain the radiator, how do you drain all of the coolant with the thermostat closed?

The carpet is all one piece. You must trove everything @itying on it, to remove it.

Try contacting the Sunroof Doctor we site. They provide / manufacture parts for Ford/Lincoln moonroofs. https://www.sunroofdoctor.com/

How did that work out?

I've used POR-15. You brush it on. Two coats. Messy, whatever it touches is permanent. As an expirement I coated the underside on my Simplicity garden tractor's mowing deck. (Lasted one year in the heavy wear areas. Still present in the edges.) Fluid film is usually sprayed on by professionals. Touched up once a year. But, inside a door interior, would probably last a lifetime.

Concerning the 2.0L engine, sometime during in 2019-2020, Ford changed over from the wide slot to the small, cross-drilled holes. Because this change increased the amount of solid metal on the block deck between cyl 2 & 3, it provided a much larger surface for the head gasket to seal against. The new design has proven to be a permanent fix & I can't recall a single case of gasket failure. As far as changing the coolant, if it were me. I'd get a copy of the Ford Service Manual for 2024 and read the procedure. $60 on Ebay, cheap insurance that will pay dividends for years. https://ebay.us/m/sfs60U

While you're back there, check the tightness of the spare tire and Jack assy. If the wing nut loosened slightly, its possible that causing the squeek.

As version 2.2 is the last version that did not have a "version check". (Its better to downgrade to 2.2 rather than 1.0). If your having problems, consider running a Master Reset (Settings > General > Master Reset) before attempting a downgrade. If you're still having problems downgrading, consider using the CyanLabs Syn3 Updater. Its been reported to help up and downgrading with Sync 3. https://share.google/a7C9jVp3OqLxxhrar .

Officially, Ford states that you cannot jump directly from SYNC 3 version 1.0 to 3.0. You must follow Ford's standard update path which requires you to first upgrade to an intermediate version, such as 2.2, before proceeding to 3.0 or higher. If you attempt to skip these intermediate steps, it will lead to issues like missing Android Auto or Apple CarPlay functionality, or broken voice recognition. Basically, you should first upgrade to v2.2. It includes pieces needed for the v3.0 features. Once v2.2 is confirmed in your system settings, you can apply the v3.0 update. Temember to perform a master reset after each update to clear glitches. Also remember that just upgrading the software isn't enough. For apple CarPlay, you must replace the USB hub with a CarPlay-compatible version.

You'll probably be better off. 😁 Keep us informed as to what happens. .

<Oskar27> like to know what your dealer did/said. They spray or tear the door apart$$?