enigma-2

I was just reading on a different forum that the 2012 ABS module has been discontinued by Ford. This site sells used parts: https://share.google/Rh2QyDB3zZrPIfQ70

You are correct, the F150 is still 150 (the F250 & 350 are 164 ft.lbs.). I think (but only a guess) that its because the F150 uses a 6-bolt lug pattern and the Edge uses a 5-bolt. The higher torque would be necessary to proved the equivalent holding power.

Sounds simular to torque steer. Check lower control arm bushings (most common cause of pulling on acceleration), worn ball joints (wanders under load, feels loose when cornering), or worn tie rod ends (drifting during acceleration or deceleration.) Reason you probably feel it at shift points is because as the transmission changes gears, a different level of torque is applied to the wheels and the change in force (when the lower control arm bushings are bad), causes the wheel geometry to shift forward or backward, pulling the car left or right. Get the car up on a lift and check the rear bushings of the front lower control arms.

Yup, that'dll fix it. Once or twice a year clean your headlights with dawn soap & water, then dry and spray with this, and they'll never hase over. (More often if you're in the desert southwest. Its the sun's UV that causes the plastic to get cloudy.) https://a.co/d/0ddE2Gie .

As no one else responded, I'll add my 2½ cents. I pulled this off a related website: Common Transmission Issues ● Flexplate Cracks & Torque Converter Failure: Ford issued a Customer Satisfaction Program (22N12) for certain 2015–2018 models with the 2.0L EcoBoost engine and 6F35 transmission. This program covers repairs for cracked flexplates, transmission fluid pumps, and torque converters, which can cause rattling noises and eventual failure. ● Shifter Cable Bushing Recall: A significant recall (22S43) affected 2015–2018 Edges because the shifter cable bushing could degrade, potentially causing the vehicle to be in a different gear than the one indicated by the shifter. ● Torque Converter Weld Studs: A smaller recall affected some 2017–2018 models with 2.0L gas engines where inadequate welds on torque converter studs could lead to a complete loss of drive. ● Cooler Bypass Valve Clogging: Some mechanics identify a clogged cooler bypass valve as a major cause of transmission overheating and failure in the 2018 model year. Reported Symptoms Owners have frequently reported the following symptoms before experiencing major failures: ● Rough Shifting: Hesitation, jerking, or "bucking" particularly at low speeds. ● Slipping: Momentary increases in RPMs without a corresponding increase in speed, often noticed around 60 mph. ●Unusual Noises: Clunking or rattling sounds coming from the transmission area. Maintenance Recommendations While the owner's manual may suggest long intervals, many technicians and experienced owners recommend more frequent service to extend the life of the 2018 Edge's transmission: ● Fluid Changes: Aim for transmission fluid inspections and changes every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. ● Address Shudders Early: If you notice a "shudder" or "jerk" at low speeds, a software calibration update or a fluid flush may resolve it before permanent damage occurs. ● Verify Recalls: Check your VIN on the Ford Support Recall Page to see if your specific vehicle is covered by the flexplate or shifter bushing programs.

Sometimes metal debris in the transmission fluid can interfere with the magnetic sensor's readings. Changing the fluid would be my first choice. The OSS sensor itself is located inside the transmission; attached to thevm valve body. Accessing it requires draining the transmission fluid, removing the transmission pan and valve body assembly.

Ever fix this? I'd check the throttle body to see if it needs to be cleaned for carbon buildup. When it faults, the car goes into limp state. Could also be an electrical failure in the ETB itself (needs replacing.) Another possibility is a Problem with the throttle position sensor or the accelerator pedal position sensor. A fault with either of these can cause the computer to receive an incorrect throttle position location which can cause an intermittent power loss.

This is late, but for future reference, Pin 1 is the 12V battery power wire, it's violet (or violet with a white stripe). Pin 2 is the ground common ground for the coil. It's black with violet stripe (or black with a green/white stripe). Pin 3 is the PCM Trigger wire. It's color varies by cylinder. For the cylinders on the "far right", Cylinder 3 is either a yellow with a orange stripe, or violet with orange stripe. Cylinder 6 is either a violet with brown stripe, or green with a white stripe.

Ever fix this? There's a weak possibility that it can also be caused by a weak battery (low voltage), corroded connector (or bad wiring) or a bad wheel bearing.

Yup. The glaze causes the light to scatter, reducing the light pattern in the distance.

At this mileage, the most likely culprits are worn wheel bearings or RDU. If bearings, the noise changes pitch with speed and may get louder or quieter when you steer left or right. If RDU, there's a l growling or grinding that's most noticeable under light acceleration or during low-speed turns.

Believe I'm going to disagree with you on this. A private seller is NOT responsible for repairs once the sale is complete. Private party sales are typically considered "as-is," meaning the buyer accepts the vehicle's current condition and assumes all future repair costs. The only exception to this is intentional fraud or misrepresentation. Such as rolling back the odometer, hiding a salvage title, or explicitly stating in writing that a specific part was replaced when it was not. In order to win this in court, you would need to prove that the seller knew about the issue and intentionally deceived you. This can be he said, she said, in which case, you lose. Can always ask the seller to provide you with a written warranty (I.E. "will cover all necessary repairs to the engine or transmission for 30 days after sale," or the like.)

I had this happen to me as well. Too it to the dealer and he also diagnosed the problem as a faulty brake booster (which they replaced under extended warranty.) I finally got it fixed by taking the car in and had them do a full brake job, and a brake fluid change (which also necessitated resetting the ASB HCU valve.) This fixed it. (Actually, by getting a brake job, I got the brake "certified" technician, not just the jack of all trades technician. He knew exactly what was wrong. (Something about using the computer to cycle the valve.) Anyway, that fixed it and have had hard, high brakes ever since. The ABS HCU bypass valve is a known failure point that can stick open and show up as a soft brake pedal or even goes all the way to the floor. (This can get real exciting, really fast.) If a dump valve is stuck open, brake fluid is continuously bypassed into the low pressure accumulator, rather than being sent to the calipers. This causes the brake pedal to drop to the floor. .

Don't know the difference between the two. Probably the length. Anyway, there's a H2GZ-14A411-B listed on Ebay (UK) for £29.71. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135285761035

What happened to your rear springs requiring their replacement? Did you overload?