enigma-2

Found this on YouTube.

Believe there are a couple of methods you could try to relearn/ turn off the light. Make certain all four tires are at the correct pressure then drive at 50 mph or faster for 10 minutes or more. Should force a relearn cycle. Second method involves using the controls on the left side of your steering wheel. (Copied from the book) 1. Turn the ignition to the ON / Accessory position (press the Start button without holding the brake). 2. Use the arrow keys on the steering wheel to scroll and select Settings or Driver Assist.Scroll down and select Tire Monitor (or Tyre Pressure). 3. Press and hold the OK button on your steering wheel until the screen says the reset or calibration is complete. 4. Turn the vehicle off, then start the engine. Note that when you first turn the car on, If the light flashes for 60 seconds, one of your wheel sensors has a dead battery and needs to be replaced.

Not certain, but I believe you'll also need to install decoders to prevent errors in the CANbus, and flickering. (Couple of other problems as well like bulbs turning off when starting, etc.)

Mine's doing the same thing (to a lesser extent, passenger ice cold, driver cool). Scheduled to have shop replace it in a couple of weeks. Quoted me 2 hours + parts (guessing ~$50 for Motorcraft part.) But you can try a HVAC module reset. It runs the actuators through their range to find the end points. It sometimes fixes problem if Actuator lost end points. Procedure: Car on but not running. HVAC off. Press OFF and DEFROST buttons for 5 seconds. Release and press the climate control ON button within 2 seconds. HVAC display goes into test mode and generates results when done. (88 88 means all ok.) This procedure works on mine, but your model may have a different button combination. We covered this several years ago in this forum. Do a search if this procedure didn't work.

This would indicate a failing Electric Power Assisted Steering torque sensor, or a binding lower steering shaft U-joint. At highway speeds, you make very small steering adjustments. If the torque sensor develops a dead zone due to wear in its center position, it stops reading those small movements and the computer fails to provide steering assist. This would make the steering wheel feel sticky. When you move the steering wheel back and forth, you move out 9f the densird center position, allowing the computer to read the signals. .

This is a highly documented pattern failure on 2019+ Ford AWD. It's probably a failing Active Torque Coupling Unit on the Rear Differential. Starting with the 2919 edges, Ford changed the AWD disconnect system that frequently suffers from internal clutch pack chatter or mechanical failure. When you take off or turn right the vehicle weight transfers and forces the rear differential to send torque to the left rear wheel while slipping the inner right wheel, which triggers a distinct clunking, knocking, or thumping sound from that rear area. No recalls on the coupler, but a recall on the rdu. 21S02 (Rear Drive Unit Lubricant Level.) Applies to certain Edges regarding a low lubricant fill level in the rear drive unit. If the fluid was below the minimum level, the axle was supposed to be replaced free of charge. You should check if your specific VIN was ever flagged for this, as running low on fluid from the factory causes the exact premature failure and clunking you are experiencing. There's TSB 21-2389 for Rear Actuator Noise. Check for recalls by getting your VIN and go to the NHTSA Recall Lookup Tool. https://share.google/NTvPbYbGnMtqpp5ND (Good reason to have an extended warranty.)

Can't beat OEM ....

Just seen your post, otherwise I would have spoken up sooner. This may be a mistake. Taken from page 192 of a 2022 owners manual: WARNING: Vehicle modifications involving braking system, aftermarket roof racks, suspension, steering system, tire construction and wheel and tire size may change the handling characteristics of your vehicle and may adversely affect the performance of the electronic stability control system. In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the electronic stability control system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the electronic stability control sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the electronic stability control system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.

Since your display is operating (the GPS/compass tracks your movement) confirms that the APIM is working. This indicates that the touch layer (the digitizer) which glued to the front of the LCD has probably failed. But, before you go any further, try a software reboot (to rule out a frozen system cache.) 1. Turn your vehicle on to accessory mode. 2. Press and hold the Power Button (center of the volume knob) and the Seek Right Button (>>|) at the exact same time. 3. Hold for 15 seconds until the screen goes completely black. 4. Release the buttons and wait for the MyFord Touch system to reboot. .

Yup, same here. Every once in awhile my MKX will wait until I park it in the garage and then it puts the drivers seat all the forward and lowers the backrest all the way down onto the back seat. I open the door and it sits there smiling at me. We have a good laugh about the tricks its learned and then I have to put the seat back where I can enter and start the car. Once it did it while I was driving. We had a long talk about why it shouldn't do that, and its never done it since. Ah, what fun modern cars can be. Can't wait until home robots become common. 😁

Pulled this from another site. The message is a Master Warning Alert indicating a critical safety or mechanical issue. The red upside-down triangle with an exclamation point is a general warning flag. your car may have been warning you to "Pull Over Safely" (or that it has entered "Limp Mode".) May be able to pull it up as a stored code.

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, haven't been on the site for awhile. This is the easiest and fastest way to clean the a/c evaporator housing. https://a.co/d/09ftGtMJ

Hundreds of videos on YouTube. Here's an example for pulling a dent (I've never tried it, I've always sucked at bodywork.)

Might be easier to find if you were to run a 1/4" hose down through a a/c grill, and pour about a pint of water down into the base of the a/c evaporator case. This would simulate normal behavior on steroids and you could watch where the condensate drains out.