enigma-2

I'm not certain that this is your exact seat track. It may or may not be the exact seat track you need. $290 with free shipping. "Front Left Manual Seat Track 7T4Z-7861705-A, Ford Edge 2007-2014" https://www.ebay.com/itm/156598724484?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2IFx87bHQu-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Its possible that the lever that adjusts your seat position may be jammed. When standing out of the car, try pulling the lever directly upward with a fair amount of force. This might be able to free the mechanism of any dirt or gunk which is jamming the gears. If it's still stuck, pump the seat lever downward three or four times, then pull the lever up sharply. This may be able disengage the jammed gears, freeing the seat. If these attempts don't work, you'll probably have the pull the seat and see if the adjustment mechanism is jammed from gunk, or if the mechanism is broken.

User in a different forum said that he got his to activate by pressing and holding the volume button and simultaneously turning the button one click.

Big job. Have to remove the top and front of engine to reach. Going this far, you definitely change out water pump, timing chain, chain guides and plugs. My dealer drops the engine/transmission subframe to service. Claims it's easier that working on engine inside car.

The common hardware items are listed in Ford's Standard Parts Catalog. This is what the old paper copies look like, the current ones are on digital. Dealer has a copy. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/standard--utility-parts-catalog.html

Studder under load is most often ignition related (not always, but I'd suspect first.) How many miles on your plugs? Could also be a coil boot partial failure that allowing spark to short to block. Couple of videos that have good advice on how to isolate:

As @1004ron stated, the real harm is in the bearings. One area that's more sensitive is the lobe rise on the camshafts. Changes the timing. If the engine seems to be running OK, I'd stop driving it now and get the water pump fixed. (You'll also change out the timing chain and guides.) Also change the plugs while the engine is torn down. Its entirely possible that the plump failure is only a recent event. Coolant can drain into the pan quite quickly when the seal fails.

Any of the following is listed as fitting your 22 st. 245/60R18 245/55R19 245/60R18 245/50R20 245/40R21 My temporary spare is 17" and was OEM. Fits ok. (But at 55 psi it rides rough and noisy as hell.)

However, the mechanic is supposed to do this as part of the rotation service. I get The Works for my oil changes, and tire rotation is part of the service. Never had a TPMS light afterwards. (Its a simple procedure, takes only a minute or two. What else is your mechanic overlooking?)

One thing to check is tire pressure. Believe your tires should be set at 35 psi. If higher, they'll cause the car to wander in and out of the lane base on the crown of the road. (Some mechanics mistakenly believe higher is better.)

Honestly I would doubt it. You getting any codes when this happens?

You can buy a Chinese aftermarket (comes from China) on Ebay for $80. (Or OEM for $200.) In the meantime, stop at your local auto parts are us and buy some translucent RED tape to cover the clear LEDs. Its made for this use, to cover broken plastic break lens. (Is @akirby still in the forum? 🙂 Usually accepted by the cops as an accepted method of temporary repair. (The third brake light is a DOT requirement in all states and you can get stopped for displaying white instead of red.) Call your local Ford service and get a quote as to how much it will cost for replacement and labor. Then call your insurance agent and see if you can claim on your comprehensive policy (may have to pay the deductible, mine is $100, but I'll bet the cost would be upwards of five or six hundred. Two, two-fifty for the lens plus two fifty or three for labor — I'm being generous, of course its going to be more, what with sales tax and all that.)

My 2009 MKX has done this three times to me. Year or two between events. Always started on second try so I ignored it. My guess at the time was it was related to the immobilizer circuit had gotten the wrong signal or a spike had occurred during the start sequence. If it happens again and doesn't start on the second try, try disabling (or resetting) the immobilizer by putting the key in, turn to on, then off and wait a few seconds. (With keyless not certain, perhaps push "srmtart" button (goes to accrssory), then off and wait a few seconds for the immobilizer to reset.) I tend to believe that the immobilizer is what's involved, inasmuch as the car reacts exactly like the wrong key (or fob) is in the car.

I remember reading about a simular situation some years ago, where the guy finally identified that moisture was getting into the switch on the liftgate and triggering it when its position changed from vertical to horizontal when open. Think he said he found this by putting some tape (think he said tape) over the outside of the switch to seal it off from the exterior. (Don't believe he has driving a Ford however. Think it was a Japanese import.)

As the title states, this is the method used by one person to clean his intake & exhaust valves, in his direct injection engine. Gives the name of chemicals, tools and methods used. Claims it takes him 6 hours and does this at 120k km intervals. Shows pictures of before and after. (Super impressive results.) Discusses use of catch cans and why he doesn't use them. He talks about the use of catch cans & that they do work, but feels they're only 50% (maybe more) effective. I'd guess 59% — 75% which extremely helpful, but still not perfect. Some stuff gets through and accumulates on the valve. Love to see a picture of valves with catch can after 50k miles. Just to see how effective the catch cans really are. Anyway, I found this extremely interesting and thought I'd share.