enigma-2

If you have a Titanium, it's probably a trim switch used to control ambient lighting. If not, turn it and see. ... poof, thump .

A failing 12V battery can cause intermittent steering assist failures.

Ford has identified an issue where the ABS module software. It can cause cruise control to deactivate and trigger these specific warning lights. The fix requires reprogramming the ABS module. (This is usually covered under warranty.) 2nd possibility is a faulty wheel speed sensor. (If the car cannot "see" how fast a wheel is turning, it cannot safely operate ABS or cruise control.) Inspect the wiring to each sensor for damage. (Should pop a code.) 3rd is an ABS module Hardware Failure. Should pop a code.

I've never had good experience with the electric sprayers, they last a year or two. Have never had a problem with my gas sprayer, has a Honda engine. Don't use a high pressure washer in your engine compartment. Followed this video few years ago and never had a problem.

Hard to beat Techron Fuel System Cleaner.

Think these are p/n you're looking for. *Input Shaft Seal: 7T4Z-7086-A *Output Shaft Seal: GB5Z-7275-A *Pinion Gear (6F50/AT43): Often found as 26 teeth / 42 splines

From what I've read, most failures were related to lack of maintenance (not changing the coolant or oil changes properly.) I plan on having mine changed at around 175k. (My 2009 3.5L MKX currently has around 144k.) My mechanic drops the engine, and changes everything that fails when he does water pump. Not just the water pump, thermostat, timing, but camshaft phasers as well.

Guessing.. About the only thing that comes to mind that's electrical and related to changing the water pump & can affect starting is the cam/crank position sensors. (Plugged in, broken wire?)

Electronic Throttle Control..?

This can be caused by a bad ground connection. Trace your ground cable coming off the battery to chassis ground.

Purge valve will set CEL. Is the check engine light on?

Fuses control the PCM. I recently watched a video on YouTube where the mechanic tracked an identical problem to the connector in the tailgate, that connected to the rear wiper. It appeared that water leaked through the rear wiper seal (where the shift exits the tailgate body.) Water leaked through the deteriorated seal and dripped down onto the connector. (Think drip, drip, drip.) This caused green crusties (corrosion) to form between adjacent connections on the connector (on the outside, at the top of the connector.) This fed the 'wiper keep alive current' to an adjacent circuit, which backfed the leakage voltage back to the fuse panel in the engine compartment; which kept the PCM alive. (Took him several hours to track down.) He was getting just 3 volts (or something lower than battery voltage) in the backfeed; which didn't make any sense. He found that the crusties acted like a resistor, allowing a reduced amount of battery voltage to be applied to an adjacent wire in the connector, that should be dead when the car was off. I'd have a close look at the rear wiper seal. If it looks like there's a microscopic gap where the seal exits, I'd get suspicious and pop off the hatchback interior cover and look at the connector. Your car is the right age for a deteriorated wiper body seal. .!@##$ spellchecker...

Have you solved this yet? If not, I'd suggest taking a close look at the VVT solenoid that was replaced. It is most likely due an improper seal seat. And yes, a stuck PVC valve can cause a buildupnof pressure, forcing oil to leak at several places.

Old fluid is a known cause,, but you've already addressed that. (Change at 30k — 40k intervals.) At 68k you're past the 60k warranty. Have you checked for codes? P0741 is a code which often displays when this condition occurs. (Torque converter clutch solenoid performance). TSB 21-2389 addresses the problem of shuddering or jerking at speeds up to 35 mph. (Doesn't occur above 35 mph.) Is revises the software in the PCM. (Changes when the xmission shifts.) .