enigma-2

I know this is old, but just seen it. The circle with the letters GPS and a line through it means SYNC has lost communication with the GPS satellites. Several possibilities include: 1. The car is in a area blocking the signal (garage, tunnel, dense tree canopies, etc. (Try again making certain your car has a clear view of the sky.) 2. There was a electronic crash or a corrupted software update. (Try a soft reset. Press and hold the Audio Power button and the Seek Right / Fast Forward button (→) at the exact same time. Hold down for 10 seconds until the screen goes completely black. Release the buttons and the system will reboot. It will show the Ford logo and reestablish a satellite handshake.) 3. The privacy settings in your car's menu may have accidentally toggled the GPS location permissions to "Off". (Try a software refresh. On your screen tap "Settings". Tap "FordPass Connect" and then "Connectivity Settings" {or just Connectivity if your SYNC doesn't have FordPass.} Locate the "Location" slider and turn it Of. Wait ait 10 seconds then turn it back On.) If after you follow the above fixes and the crossed-out GPS icon, it means there is probably a hardware issue. Couple of possibilities inclue: 1. The GPS antenna failed (or the blue coaxial wire has come loose under the dashboard.) 2. Or the APIM is failing.

1. Summer air is better because it makes your tires look sexier. 2. Winter air causes tire shrinkage on hot payment. 3. Winter air makes your tires look like blocks of ice. Summer air gives them that sleek, curvy look that makes all the other cars in the parking lot "jealous." 4. Winter air is way too heavy in the warm months, and creates massive rolling resistance. Premium summer air is lighter and molecularly "streamlined." It makes the tires roll noticeably smoother. It improves fuel economy by at least five miles per gallon. (Summer air literally pays for itself in gas savings.) 5. Summer air catches the light summer breezes and helps the tires to roll faster. Of course all of know all this, just "preaching to the choir."

Change brake fluid, engine air filter, cabin air filter, spare tire pressure, pwr steering fluid, coolant, replace air in tires with summer air, check blinker fluid, etc.

Did you ever get this fixed?

I may have found the fix in the F150 forum, where they have seen simular problems. The cause of the problem is most likely a failing Transmission Range Sensor. When your Edge reaches operating temperature, heat expansion causes an electrical open circuit or glitch inside the sensor. The TRS completely loses track of what gear the car is in, which triggers all three of your symptoms simultaneously. The symptoms may feel like they are separate issues, but they are all tied to this particular sensor. The PCM uses the signal from the TRS to know which gear is selected. Because the PCM is getting blank or corrupted data from the TRS, it cannot output a gear position (P, R, N, D, S) to the digital instrument cluster. Also, when the TRS signal drops out while you're driving, the PCM gets confused and drops hydraulic pressure which causes the transmission to slip out of gear. If the TRS starts working again, it generates a signal the the PCM and the PCM will attempt to re-engage the transmission. This will cause lurching). The reason the rear camera activates is when the TRS is corrupted, its outputting a false reverse gear signal, which causes the BCM to believe that the transmission is in reverse; and turn on the backup camera display. The reason the dealer didn't find any codes is probably due to, when the 6F50/6F55 TRS faults, is usually doesn't set a "permanent" code, such as a P0705 or similar. The code it dies set, is reset when you cycle the key. By the time you drive it to the dealer and they scan it, the system doesn't retain a code. Since the dealer cannot reproduce it, you need to alert them to this possibility and tell them that you suspect an intermittent internal "Transmission Range Sensor / Leadframe" fault that occurs only at operating temperature. The technician will need to drive the car with a factory scan tool hooked up, specifically monitoring the "TR_D" (Transmission Range Desired) and "TR_A" (Transmission Range Actual) PIDs. They'll watch for the signal to drop or turn to eith Fault or Unknown when the vehicle gets hot. (Make certain when you take it in you have a full tank of gas as it may have to be driven many miles before the test begins. Or before the module faults.) You can also record a video the next time this happens. Showing this video to the service manager bypasses the "cannot reproduce" problem. .

Did you start at the OBD-II port and follow the harness back?

My guess is the whirring sound you are hearing is probably coming from the car's ABS pump. When your car sits for a while, the hydraulic pressure inside the ABS system slowly bleeds down. When you get in and press the brake pedal, (even if the car is not runnung), this triggers the ABS control module to wake up, run a self-test and prime the system. The 5-second whirring you hear is the internal electric pump motor building hydraulic pressure. Taking your foot off the pedal cuts the electrical circuit, stopping the pump.

I've read that some owners have fixed the torque converter shudder problem by adding an anti-shudder fluid conditioner (such as Lubegard Shudder Fixx) at a fluid change. Also need to change your fluid at 25k mime intervals. .

I don't know what year you have, but on the 2009 Edge, front wheel drive Edges use 11.65-inch front rotors and AWD Edges use the 12.60-inch front rotors. (The 12.6" rotors will NOT fit on the front wheel only version.) Rear Rotors are 11.89 inch whether its AWD or FWD. If you're looking to upgrade braking (and not get ridiculous about it) consider switching to semi-metallic pads (such as NAPA Ultra Premium Semi-Metallic or Hawk Performance.) These will definitely upgrade braking performance by providing max cold bite, superior friction at high temperatures, no fade, but have several bad cons, such as creating large amounts of dark metallic dust, they wear down your brake rotors faster and sometimes cause queaking when braking. A better choice would be putting on carbon-infused ceramic pads; such as the is the PowerStop Z36 Truck & Tow or PowerStop Z23 Evolution series. Almost as good stopping power, but less dust and no squeeking. Lastly, but still an upgrade, consider a premium ceramic pad (such as Duralast Gold Ceramic or Akebono ProACT.) The main advantage is they are better at braking than OEM, much less duty (and its light colored) and they are quiet. But they will fade more when towing or hard braking. (I'm running the Motorcraft premium ceramic pads on my 2009 Lincoln MKX, and find them to be excellent.) .

Have figured it out yet?

No way. They will only provide the camera to an authorized Ford dealer to install. (Besides, it won't cost you anything; let them do it.) As its intermittent, it may not qualify under 25S89. (Has to be dead of distorted - all the time.) As it's intermittent, I'd suspect green crusties at the camera connector.

First thing I'd suspect is your spare tire blew. (As its pressured at 55 psi, it would deliver a good bang. Usually the value core is what fails.) But, seeing how its happened 3x .... If this happened only on the highway, the most common cause is a tire kicked up a large rock that slammed into the underside of the wheel well. They can make a deafening bang. A car just idling, sounds like its the amp that either shorted or a loose connection at the amp. (Rear right hand side is the woofer and amp.)

Look for the OBD-II port. (Where you plug in a scan tool.) This port is physically attached right to the bottom of the Gateway Module assembly. If you follow your OBD-II port up behind the plastic trim, your hand will go straight to the GWM. To access the module you need to remove the lower plastic trim panel located underneath the steering wheel. (It's held in place by a few plastic clips and 7mm or 10mm screws.) Once the panel is removed, look up to the right of the steering shaft. You will see a rectangular plastic module box with multiple prominent wiring harnesses plugged into it. This is the exact location where you will perform the "T-harness" pass-through installation.

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