Jaak in TO

Hey ... that's what they told me over the phone as I had asked about these for the rears ....

I have ordered the following from Crutchfield Canada: Infinity Kappa 682.7cf for the front doors and Infinity reference 6822cf for the rear doors. Had to use 6822cf in the rears as the Kappa's tweeter touches the inside door panel with no space. If they get hit the speaker will be damaged.

Lex ... talked to crutchfield and got the following answers: 2 Ohm is fine as they have contacted Infinity as well as Ford. No issues there. The Kappa's in the rear are not recommended as the tweeter just touches the inside door panel. Make sure nothing hits the rear door panels by the speakers as you will be replacing them if they do. I ordered Kappa's for the front and the Infinity Reference 6822cf for the rears. Gil, the Canadian rep said that this would be the best in my situation. He noted I like to turn the treble up so he got me from the Polks to the Kappa's for the front.

Here's my 1986 Porsche 944Turbo known as a Porsche 951

One can upgrade the low beams from a H11 to an H9 ....

Thanks ... 4 ohms it is. No comment on the other part ... they are in sales <insert wink here> ....

I was not into alterations ... yours may help others. My issue is with draw on the amplifier. One problem is that some amplifiers can't tolerate being running into a lower impedance load that was specified in the manual. By running the amplifier into too low of an impedance, you can easily overheat and destroy its power output circitry. You must determine from the manufacturers specifications what the lowest impedance is that the amplifier will safely operate into. Some amplifiers are rated with a stability as low as 0.5 ohms, but you really shouldn't use a speaker system that pushes your amplifier to its limits because you might take years off of its life.

I live in Canada ... issues with duty, tax .... BROKER FEES etc ... does not make stuff south of the border cheaper in my case. Plus ... evil-bay ..... naw!

Here is my concern about the impedance issue taken from a text book: One problem is that some amplifiers can't tolerate being running into a lower impedance load that was specified in the manual. By running the amplifier into too low of an impedance, you can easily overheat and destroy its power output circitry. You must determine from the manufacturers specifications what the lowest impedance is that the amplifier will safely operate into. Some amplifiers are rated with a stability as low as 0.5 ohms, but you really shouldn't use a speaker system that pushes your amplifier to its limits because you might take years off of its life. Lex ... what was the impedance listed on the factory speakers? I don't want to get into replacing the expensive head unit ... and it would not be under warranty!!!

How would 5x7 fit? Just worried about the 2 ohm impedance on the amp. 4 ohms or more is better and I have my eye on the Polk Audio db571, 4 ohm, for about $99.99 pair.

Lex ... what size are they? 6x8 or 5x7?

IIRC they have to be 6 x 8 ....

Lex ... saw yours!!!! BTW Crutchfield Canada does not say fronts only ....

Does Boston Acoustics come in the 6x8?

akirby ... thanks. The Polk IIRC had componant system and the others required modification. Want to do a straight swap without resorting to trimming and such. Thanks for the reply ... just worried the 2 ohm maynot be good ... should have more resistance.

Sorry ... I posted this elsewhere ... any comments? Jaak ************************************************************** Folks ... am looking at upgrading the 4 speakers in my 2008 Ford edge with better ones. The sound is not bad ... but I know it can be better. I went to Crutchfield Canada website and entered my vehicle and they came back with a number of speakers available. I do not want the componant system ... just want the direct replacement w/o the extra hassle. It has come down to the following speakers and I would like to get some feed back as to what would be better. My music tastes are more into non-supper base (don't need to hear me coming down the road 1/2 before I arrive). I like techno, House, NiN, The Cult, some jazz, some clasical, Rock, new rock, but I do not need the BOOOOOOOOOOMING bass ... there is an 8" woofer in the rear. Need a "full" sound with more emphasis on mid to high end. The speakers listed are as follows complete with Canadian Prices: Infinity Reference 6822cf, 2 ohms @ &119.99 a pair Kenwood KFC-C6880ie, 4 ohms @ $149.99 pair JL Audio TR570-cxi, 4 ohms @ 159.99 a pair Infinity Kappa 682.7cf, 2 ohm @ $179.99 a pair (these will fit the rear; someone already fit them with no issues). These will be replacing the front and rear speakers and I will be leaving the Sub alone in the rear. The NAV, SYNC head unit's output is 190 watts. Thanks for your input! Jaak

Folks ... am looking at upgrading the 4 speakers in my 2008 Ford Edge AWD Limited with better ones. The sound is not bad ... but I know it can be better. I went to Crutchfield Canada website and entered my vehicle and they came back with a number of speakers available. I do not want the componant system ... just want the direct replacement w/o the extra hassle. It has come down to the following speakers and I would like to get some feed back as to what would be better. My music tastes are more into non-supper base (don't need to hear me coming down the road 1/2 before I arrive). I like techno, House, NiN, The Cult, some jazz, some clasical, Rock, new rock, but I do not need the BOOOOOOOOOOMING bass ... there is an 8" woofer in the rear. Need a "full" sound with more emphasis on mid to high end. The speakers listed are as follows complete with Canadian Prices: Infinity Reference 6822cf, 2 ohms @ &119.99 a pair Kenwood KFC-C6880ie, 4 ohms @ $149.99 pair JL Audio TR570-cxi, 4 ohms @ 159.99 a pair Infinity Kappa 682.7cf, 2 ohm @ $179.99 a pair (these will fit the rear; someone already fit them with no issues!!). These will be replacing the front and rear speakers and I will be leaving the Sub alone in the rear. The NAV, SYNC head unit's output is 190 watts. Thanks for your input! Jaak

It is part of the regular blend all year round. Do a search on gasoline supliers in your are and check out their Ethanol content. If they have none ... look at the pumps. Select the brand that has left it out if you want the mileage. You may have to switch to a 91 octane as stations such as Shell has their 91 a 100% gasoline. Bonus is the better mileage as well as pep which equals the price of the 87 regular with Ethanol. The cost overall may be cheaper at the premium blend.

Check out Daniel Stern Lighting web page for what you can upgrade. Here's and e-mail respones I got from him: On Fri, 14 Mar 2008, Jaak Lepson wrote: > Hello ... I have a brand spanking new Ford Edge Limited AWD with H11 as the low beams. Ford have recently "gotten it" and have been installing decent optics on their cars (finally). H11 is an ultralong-life, rather low-output bulb producing 1350 lumens. You can easily and safely replace the H11 low beam bulbs with 2100-lumen H9 items: http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html -- don't make this substitution in the fog lamps, however. > I would like to order a pair of your finest. I am looking for a good distance beam pattern down the road as well as one that hopefully lasts longer than a year. Can't have all of the above. Higher output = shorter life. Buy spares; they're not too costly. Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.) Here's the comparison: stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $23.95/ea - but their cost is worth considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan. The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases. The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for details. The direct order link for these bulbs is http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html You may also want to install the 30% brighter front turn signal bulbs to maintain the proper brightness ratio with the headlamps: http://store.candlepower.com/p3457akda.html > For shipping purposes I live in Toronto, Ontario, Canada: No worries -- Canadian shipping options are provided on the checkout page of our secure Candlepower website linked above. .

The POI is provided by a third party ... one who has ties to Garmin. The data is always a bit out of date. I chose the Nav here in Toronto Canada as the maps were updated for my province including a remote cabin I go to. Part of my job is dealing with geocoded base maps for Canada and soon USA. I have noticed an update has been done within the last year. Look at the date the Nav DVD was burned. You should of gotten the latest available. Look on the site provided by the Nav Help screen and check out the date on available DVD's. If yours is older ... insist on the latest as that is what you had purchased and expected at the time of delivery. There is just so much data out there that it makes it hard to keep up with the latest. BTW ... I am an end user of Geocoded products ... so I get onto suppliers cases .....

Volvo for the drivetrain parts ....

I looked a typical parts such as brakes, alternator etc and found it to be about 25% cheaper. CX-7 outfitted similar to my 08 AWD Limited was $5,000 more at Canadian dealers when researching vehicles ... it's also smaller. Don't know about the states ...

I just got this cargo area liner that helps keep the rear area clean when picking up "dirty" item. It can be ordered here or picke up at any of their stores. The cost is $29.50 CDN and will cover from the rear of the front seats to the liftgate and a bit more. http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?...&cat=2,2180 I have it stored in the rear cargo management area by the spare tire. Jaak