Zazzy

Only a few minutes because those were the easy parts to remove and replace. It was everything else that took a while. I did the work over two weekends because didn't have the filter/screen/gasket from Ford the day I started. If I had to guess, it probably took me 6 hours total. I probably could have done it quicker but I prefer to clean stuff that I work on.

You gotta watch out for that giant hunk of bare plastic, 'cause it'd be in the way. LOL.

My wife recently traded in her MKX for a certified 2016 MKX and had nothing but great things to say about the experience. In the past, she always avoided interactions with any salesman and if she was going to buy, I always have done the negotiating on the trade in and then on the purchase of the new/used car or truck. She had located several different MKXs that met her criteria at different dealers. When it came to negotiating the trade-in, Big Valley Ford was the most willing and they showed positive signs of negotiating on the sale of the new MKX. So, she thought it was worth checking them out. Before arriving, she knew what her bottom line was and walking away wasn't going to be an issue. There were other deals and she still loved the MKX she had. After all was done, she left with a beautiful certified, low mileage 2016 MKX and had nothing but great things to say about the salesman/sales manager and finance manager. Plus, she was able to negotiate a great deal on both the trade in and the purchase price. BTW, the salesman was Martin Esparza. He is also the sales manager.

That's a decent price.

You could try flushing the heater core, which I tried and it works temporarily. I placed a pressure gauge on a "flushing-manifold" that I made so I didn't over-pressurized the system during the flush. After numerous flushes, I finally replaced it because it started leaking. It's not a difficult project although it takes a long time because there are lots of parts to remove, and there are a lot of steps. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17238-no-heat-decided-to-fix-it/

I posted a reply the other day but for some reason, it's not here anymore. I suspect you need to cycle the ABS and bleed the brakes again. A service bay tool (or some scan tools) will cycle the ABS. Another way (that you didn't hear from me) is to drive down a dirt road at about 20 mph and nail the brakes a few times. You need to lock up the brakes and activate the ABS. Don't worry about being aggressive because you need to activate the ABS. Then, bleed the brakes.

You can place your finger in the hole to move the front of the connector so it'll fit thru. There's plenty of room.

My mistake for being unclear. I should have said "about $1 to $2 per quart less expensive than the typical Mercon V fluids." The stuff I bought is the Super Tech. I bought a bunch of fluid prior to working on the transmission, and then I did a flush. So, saving $40 was worth it.

LOL. I'm flushing the power steering fluid today. The easiest way to flush is to pull off the return line from the reservoir and plug/cap the opening on the reservoir. The return line is the small hose. Make sure there is fluid in the reservoir before proceeding further. Then, use another hose to extend the return line to a container. Then fill the reservoir, start up the engine and move the steering wheel left/right. This will draw in new fluid and the return line will pump the old fluid into the container. It's easier if you do this with a 2nd person who has a clue. All they have to do is keep the tank full. Once the fluid coming out of the return line looks new, turn the wheel enough to draw down the the reservoir level to somewhere below max. Then, hook up the return line to the reservoir and make sure the level is above the minimum. If you don't have a helper that is helpful, turn the wheel left/right and shut off the engine. Add fluid to the reservoir, start it up and repeat. Do this until the fluid coming out is clean. BTW, the Mercon V at Walmart is less expensive (about $1 to $2 per quart).

LOL. I'm flushing the power steering fluid today. The easiest way to flush is to pull off the return line from the reservoir and plug/cap the opening on the reservoir. Then, use another hose to extend the return line to a container. Then fill the reservoir, start up the engine and move the steering wheel a little each way. This will draw in new fluid and the return line will dump the old fluid into the container. It's easier if you do this with a 2nd person who has a clue. All they have to do is keep the tank full. Once the fluid coming out of the return line looks new, turn the wheel enough to draw down the the reservoir level to somewhere below max. Then, hook up the return line to the reservoir and make sure the level is above the minimum. If you don't have a helper that is helpful, turn the wheel left/right and shut off the engine. Add fluid to the reservoir, start it up and repeat. Do this until the fluid coming out is clean.

Instructions attached. The OSS and TSS instructions are almost identical. I printed the TSS instruction because it was 12 pages, then I marked the pages as TSS. Then, I printed the OSS instruction on the other side. Solenoid Body Assembly.pdf Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) Sensor.pdf Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor.pdf

I did this job recently and posted in the 2008 section.

The project isn't too difficult. Below are a few before and after pix. I tried to put them in order but the server kept on arranging them end to beginning. I guess you could call the first picture the before and after, although I took it when I was done. The last photo (on the far right) is after I had removed the air cleaner and the intake stuff up to the throttle body. I also removed the air filter support bottom bracket. It made it easier to remove the transmission cooler tube. After I removed the solenoid cover, I had to disconnect the wiring. I took a photo of the one with the green plastic. You need to slide the grey lock to the right. That wasn't a big deal. The trick is that you have to press the green tab a little harder than you'd think to get it to release and slide off. That's the reason why I took this photo. The other photo is showing the guts removed. Here are the parts to buy and some tidbits not really clear in the service manual. To buy: TSS and OSS From Ford: the solenoid "gasket". It's called a filter in the manual, but it looks like a gasket with a bunch of screens. 1 gallon of coolant and 1 gallon of distilled water. You'll only use about 1 quart of each (1/2 gallon of a 50/50 mix). Obviously, if you can find the specified coolant in a 50/50 mix, you'll only need to buy one gallon of the stuff. 7 quarts of Mercon V transmission fluid, at a minimum. If you're going to do a fluid flush (per the manual), buy 19 quarts (1+6+6+6). You'll use 1 quart to clean parts, you'll drain at least 6 quarts during this project. If you drain the fluid after it's all put together, you'll probably drain 5-6 quarts (not too sure). I'm going to do the next two flushes on another weekend. Don't bother buying the seal for the main harness, unless it's leaking. If it's leaking you'll have to buy the seal, a new cover and a new gasket for the cover. Why? The new seals only fit the new covers. Place a baggie with a rubber band over the throttle body. If you don't, you will squirt water into it when you remove the radiator hoses. Drain the radiator hoses as much as possible. Then plug them with something. I used shop rags. Other than the typical/everyday tools, you'll need a in-lb torque wrench, a shorty 19 mm or 3/4" wrench for the right side transmission cooler line, a headlamp and a mirror. Also, get some large zip lock bags. You want to keep the transmission guts away from dust. When you remove them, slip them in a bag and seal it. You can also use the bag to pour new over the parts to clean off the dirty fluid. Keep a pan underneath the valve body area. Fluid is going to drip a lot. When you remove the cooler line, plug the holes with something that will keep them clean. The manual says to discard the bolt that holds the cooler line in place (this is the bolt on the left side). I'm 99% sure it's Ford's code for "reuse the bolt and use locktite blue." The manual is also very specific about not touching the "lead area" of the solenoid body. It's the area around where the main harness plugs in. I don't know why and don't care because it's easy to avoid touching. When you remove the solenoid bolts, scotch tape them to a piece of paper that's labeled so you can put them back in the correct spot. The lengths are different. The manual shows the lengths and where they go. But if you want to be cautious, put them in order. Don't worry about the scotch tape - it won't stick to the transmission fluid on the bolts. The TSS sensor's wiring is a bit tricky to snake thru the hole when removing it. It slides out if you help it. You'll have to have the same patience getting it in. It's not difficult at all but don't expect it to take a couple seconds. It'll take 10 or 20. Lining up the main control valve before bolting it on is a bit tricky. This is when you might use the mirror and the headlamp. Take your time. It's somewhat awkward to hold in place. Have one bolt in place so you can start a couple threads to hold it in place after it's in place or you need to take a break. There are two alignment pins but both are blind, plus you have to align the shift pin with the manual valve, and you want to make sure that the cables for both sensors are not in the way. It's not difficult but it takes patience. Don't not attempt to bolt it on and think it'll magical pop into place. Take it slow and once it's correctly aligned, it'll slide into place all the way. FWIW, "all the way" is only about 1/8 to 1/4 inch but is extremely obvious when it's correct. Also, keep everything as clean as possible. If you stop for the night, clean the cover without putting lint on it, put the cover on with a couple bolts, and cover the openings with rags. One other item: the manual says to drain the fluid and then put the plug back on and torque it to spec. I torqued it to spec as the last step before adding new fluid. I didn't leave it off the entire time but it was off a lot. And, I bet an extra 1/2 to 1 quart of fluid drained. Every time I took it off, I was surprised how much more fluid would drain.

I wouldn't worry. This is the typical stuff that ends up circulating in the cooling system. The filter I used is a Tefba coolant filter. There a photo of it in this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19167-tss-oss-sensor-change-pcu/

I'm replacing the TSS/OSS on my wife's MKX tomorrow. I cleared the codes it threw last week and it's been running fine since. Instead of hoping it'll run fine for the next 150,000 miles, I decided to order the parts and replace both the TSS and OSS. All the parts and fluids are about $150. It doesn't look too difficult. I'll probably spend more time cleaning stuff than the removal and replacement. To be honest though, I did tell her that it might be quicker to have a local tranny shop do the work. There's one it town that I used a few times for major repairs/rebuilds that I didn't want to tackle. They've been in business for a long time because they do good work, they're honest and reasonable on cost. She chose me because I'm still the best mechanic she's ever known, and my labor is free. LOL. Considering the amount of miles she puts on it, it's been a great car. Something like this isn't that big of a deal to me. Of course, I probably jinxed the car by saying it's been a great car. So, I have my fingers crossed that the tranny/transaxle doesn't take a dump in the next week due to the fluid change.