PaulSchott

The 2007 Edge has been passed on to another owner. You guys have been great but she was getting too needy. 157,000 miles and she ran great but she needed engine mounts, wheel bearings, a ball joint and tires. I also live in Connecticut and this was a FWD from Louisiana and had leather seats without seat heaters, no heated mirrors. She has been replaced with a 2017 Ford Escape Titanium AWD 2.0T in White Gold with every accessory available and only 35,000 miles. It was love at first sight. First service I will do a PTU and Tranny fluid change. Thanks for all your help Paul Schott?

The rear emblem on my 2007 only gave up because it hits the hinge on my garage door if it is opened when the garage is opened. I put rubber over the hinge and put a carbon sticker on the emblem. The front looks great. after 14 years

I can't help you but here is the translation for someone who may. "hello everyone and thank you, I am desperately looking for the sync 3.2 file, because after updating my 4-inch non-touch sync to version 3.4, I encountered problems with the brightness of the sync itself, and I was wondering if I can downgrade, but I do not know where to find the file. thank you all for your help."?

Sadly, your car would run without any oil for a while. Low oil level has nothing to do with it. By the time you get to add oil to it whatever electronic module is bad has had time to cool down and will let you start the car. It seems that you are saying this only happens when you are idling for a long time. This would cause heat buildup in the engine compartment. Does your engine run rough before stalling or does it just turn off? Do your cooling fans work?

If it's the belts making noise you can try spraying them with water while the car is running. Any change and the belts need changing.

I did both on my 2007. I guess you can have someone outside the car to listen. Is it worse when turning left or right? When I did mine I bought the axles on e-bay. They were Detroit Axle new Made in the USA. Less than $150 for the pair. If you are doing it yourself I recommend these. I did them about 6 years ago and over 75,000 miles. They are still fine. The job with the proper tools takes about an hour per side. Look at the axles to compare them. I had to transfer a (what I'm calling) a water defecting shield from the old ones to the new. Not a big deal, just something to look out for.

It sounds like it is held on with a clip. I'm thinking something like an old window crank clip.

What type of head lights do you have? Halogen would be my guess on a 2013. If the color of the light has yellowed without changing a bulb you most likely have a a bad ground. If you can find the ground you can clean the connection. A bad ground will only get worse and if there are other grounds connected to the same place you may start having other problems. Halogen usually do not dim noticeably with age, They just reach the end of their life and stop working. Some bulbs are tinted blue just to look good. (in some peoples opinion.) The tinted bulbs actually reduce output and don't last long. typically halogen color temp is 3000K Unless the bulb is tinted it will not vary much, and most likely will not be noticeable. ?

Ford is calling the coolant "Lifetime". My 2007 blew the water pump at 97,000 miles. I was fortunate and saw it before it was too late. I guess "Lifetime" means that after it's dead your on your own. Ford has changed the coolant recommendation for our cars a number of times. In 2007 the coolant was gold. (unknown to me) they changed it to dark green. I've been changing it about every 30,000 miles. This is about every 3 years for me. I still love this car and @ 153,000 miles it runs and looks like new.

I do have this problem and I suspect it started after I had the water pump replaced. Probably jacked the engine for access to the timing cover. I've been living with it. Is this an easy access? Did you change it from the top? Remove the battery box and is it visible? I might just do it myself if it doesn't hurt too much lol>

If the screw held the valve open and the piston hit it you may need a piston. Use a borescope to do a visual on the piston and cylinder walls. A small ding shouldn't be a big problem but it's a matter of judgement.

lol lol lol ?

It seems that it's always the plugs/coils in the back. I just did my #2 coil pack and replaced all the plugs and coil boots. The coils in the back run hotter than the 3 in the front because the intake manifold is over them and heat is an electronics killer. At 150,000 miles I think it will be the last time they will need changing. ?

I guess I should consider myself and my wife lucky. Really old guy clips my back bumper and goes around me going well over 50 mph on a roundabout. Then creams a Jeep in the drivers side. She was driving without doors on her Jeep. Dashcam is becoming a necessity. His insurance co. paid me in a week. Not sure about the girl in the Jeep. I know her car was totaled. We were coming from the same birthday party. I got the video to her. When I talked to his insurance co. they had a copy of the video. I don't believe in limits on driving ages but I think past a point there should be testing especially after an incident. She said she wasn't injured, but I bet she hurt the next day.