pjsockett

My 12 had a barcode on the top of the fusebox in the driver side kickpanel that had the code on it

My 12 had a barcode on the top of the fusebox in the driver side kickpanel that had the code on it

How about the blinking, has it been consistently amber or have you gotten the random flashes of white?

I have seen other bulbs that list 194, 168, 921 and w5w all as the same bulb. This bulb does not specifically state that they fit 921 but I believe the socket is the same. Here is an example http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/miniature-wedge-base/?gclid=CjwKEAjwi6OeBRCCrZqp-qaQhhISJACrfbtASv5z81st8yraeeIrd1nui__IgbibvQ9RC2X7NG9VYBoCeBzw_wcBpage/1/page/2/

Have you had any issues with the random white flashes with this set?

Whether it was the load or the ability to get them centered completely I don't know, but I can say that I repeatedly had problems with the rings and never had 1 problem when I had the factory wheels on for winter. I find it very hard to believe that I would have repeatedly torqued the factory wheels correctly but not the aftermarket wheels.

It looks like the top 2 buttons are side select for mirror adjustment, the bottom left is the power fold-in mirrors and the bottom right is the window lock.

I had a cougar several years ago that I had 18's on and had it lowered. The wheels that I had used hub centric rings but they were just slightly, 2-3mm, bigger than the hub and I broke wheel studs all of the time. Replacing them was a huge PITA, basically a full brake job every time, but I got really good at it. There was one instance where I was just about to get on the freeway and my car started shaking. I pulled in to a park and ride and took the wheel caps off and one of them had 2 of the 4 lug nuts laying broken inside. The stock 16" wheels were super tight on the hub and the aftermarket ring could barely wiggle on the hub and it was still a big problem. I would be really weary about stacking 3 pieces in between the wheel and the hub.

I have never used a wheel spacer, i just know that you want the hub to handle most of the load of the wheels.

You would likely snap some wheel studs since they are taking all of the weight rather than the hub. Once you lose 1 you have an increased chance of vibration that could loosen lug nuts or snap other studs. Loose too many and a wheel could fly off. That's extreme obviously, but possible if you don't pay attention to it.

These could be promising. They show them specifically as for 2010+ Mustangs which v-led lists as having an issue with their bulbs. http://www.hidguy.net/2010-2012-ford-mustang-front-parking-turn-signal-switchback-dual-color-led-upgrade/

Here is a video for the front map lights The rear dome light is the same method, you pull down from the rear of the light. It's a bit hard but it will pop out. Everything else is pretty straight forward.

For the next person that does the install on their own, I have a favor to ask. My rails are missing the passenger side front cover. Before you assemble can you see if there is a part number on the inside of the curved covers? I have tried to take off the back one on th drivers side but I feel like I'm going to break it taking it off so I stopped. Edit: I found the part numbers

Did you pick anything up? I am curious how they work, I'm not sure if I just got a cheap set or it's the vehicle.

There is a good chance that you will get the same thing until you add a resistor.

Do you have any after pictures? I am curious to see how clean the adhesive came off. Did they pop of without breaking? I just don't like the chrome and I'm thinking of taking mine off.

Can you connect the red wire to the blinker trigger wire or does it have to connect directly to the center wire?

Then I guess this would be part 2 to that question. If I already have the drl trigger to the center wire, can I attach the resistor to the drl trigger or do I have to use another tap on the factory wire?

Would it make any difference if I added resistor?

I don't see where type 1's would be a problem at all. The problem is the the type 2's randomly act like they are type 1's. With the newest version of Dan's drls the type 2's look awesome when they work correctly and, in unison, switch from white light to a blinking amber on one side of the car while the other side stays white. It kind of ruins the effect when the drl is blinking just amber and the turn signal is blinking amber/white.

I have had the newest set of 5Five ballast in my car for about 2 months with almost no issues. I have had a couple of occasions where they don't come on automatically when I turn the car on, but I have found it only happens if I turn the key very quickly If I pause for a split second at on before starting it works every time. I would go with the 5five again. Keep in mind that you need to run a relay for power on the 5five.

I may be wrong because it's not something that I had to deal with, but I thought that in Canada and California you did need the canbus because the headlight is used for drl's. I have five5 5000k hid's and have only had the auto not work a couple of times. For me it seems like the auto doesn't work if I start the vehicle too fast. If I pause for a second on "on" before switching to start everything work works perfectly every time.

I agree. You can get other brand new 20's with tires for right around that price. For a used set I think that 800-1000 is more in line.

Is that with tire or for just the wheels? Personally, I would never pay that for a set of plastic chrome wheels without tires because I know there are a lot of aftermarket options that I can get for less. I would bet that most people interested will have a pretty good gauge of their other options making it difficult to sell the set unless that is just the style they really like. For $375/wheel you have a ton of options that look a lot better in my opinion. I have seen many sell individually for 300-400 for people looking to replace just 1. That may or may not be an easier route to go. You may also sell 1 or 2 quickly and then get stuck with the rest for a while.

I'm not sure how the strobes work but the new DRL's have a wire coming out of the control box that connects to the headlamp turn signal wire as a trigger for the DRL turn signal. I would guess that you could split that wire and send to the turn signal as well as whatever you use to trigger the strobes.