tamugrad2013

And it is paid off which is the best part.

Well it happened yesterday. I hit 100,000 miles on my way home from a friends birthday dinner. Nothing imploded thus far with 100,010 miles so far.

The cost doesn't scare me as much these days because I have been able to save up more money recently. I don't think the transmission will go again for a long while and the turbo is fairly new as well. My biggest fear in not having a car if it does have to go into the shop as this is my only car. I should have brought my grandmothers 1993 Toyota Camry when she passed for a second car considering it had about 67,000 miles on it but oh well. I think 2000 would be to high just to guarantee a loaner vehicle. Thanks for the responses though.

Well as we sit right now my Edge has 99,786.4 miles and will most likely hit the 100,000 mile mark on or around October 31st. When this happens the extended warranty is no more and I seriously fear what may be around the corner. So I guess the question will be will it be more of a trick or a treat. I most definitely have not had the best luck with this car, but have had very little out of pocket costs except for a 1500 dollar catalytic converter and a few $100 deductibles. I absolutely love the tech features and the comfort of the car, but I really wonder if it will last to 175,000 miles or 2022 when I hope to replace the car. Also now that the warranty is about to be out I will definitely be doing more wrenching on the Edge myself and will be extremely grateful for the awesome how to's and posts thus far on this site and I hope to be able to provide even more insight throughout the rest of my time on this forum. The first malfunction to fix is the rear hatch support struts as the first cold temperature we had so far (39 Degrees F) I opened the hatch and it slowly started to shut. Thankfully already found the MACT video and will tackle that over Thanksgiving Break.

I brought my first update about a year and a half ago and it was from amazon and it worked well for a while and it stopped. Thankfully company I brought it from offered a full refund or replacement. The replacement they sent was also updated from the A7 card I brought to an A8. They insisted the original was factory made, but it was laking the FCC labeling on the back and the A8 replacement they sent had the FCC markings and it has worked perfectly.

Well if not beer a few pics of the new ride would be nice.

Welcome to the community. I hope you post some pics of your new Edge. I would say that this is as active of a forum as is needed. Most all of the information I have ever needed has been found with ease or answered quickly.

Since my Edge is getting close to the end of its extended warranty (only 1700 miles till I hit 100,000 miles) and I doubt that I will hit April of 2019 first I am now interested in getting this done. My question is that they cost seems quite high from TeamRXP and was wondering if there was a more reasonably priced alternative. I will most likely get it done at an independent shop. I really hope to keep this car at least a few years after I graduate from grad school in 2021 which means it will be around 11 to 12 years old when I look to replace my edge. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Use their online scheduling tool. I live in a very boom/bust town with oil and right now it is booming. I went last Saturday and they had people walking in and it they said it would be a 3 to 4 hour wait. I was in and out in 20 minutes. Barely had enough time to thumb through Car and Driver. Now Oil changes I will never take to a place. I get a lot of joy from doing that job.

Little off topic but this is why I absolutely love discount tire. They will do tire rotations for free. I have never had an issue with them before and when I bought my edge it came with new tires and they still worked on them for free because they could see I was a loyal customer for quite a long time and they knew I would buy from them again. I have been to many stores and they have always been professional and courteous. Even when I was out of state in Colorado Springs they opened the store 15 minutes early because they saw me waiting when the TPMS tripped due to a nail I picked up.

If I am not mistaken the all of the Gen 1.5 had select shift either on the gear lever (3.5) or steering wheel shifters (Sport 3.7) except for the ecoboost models. When I was in Colorado on their steep grades shifting to L seemed to work well or even setting cruise control to the speed you do not want to exceed allows it to engine brake very well. I never wanted for more. I am not sure how sport would work, but I could imagine it would be similar.

When mine did this it was the fuel pump. Symptoms were extremely similar except I got a check engine light. At that point the dealership insisted that they tow it in for safety reasons, but I could have limped it to the dealer. I guess I should clarify it was the low pressure fuel pump.

I am actually interested in the symptoms as well. When mine failed it was in for two things (AC Compressor conked out and the continual transmission woes). After the service department got the compressor fixed they were test driving it and still diagnosing the transmission they said it threw codes and the check engine light came on along with low power. I still wonder how it failed all of a sudden with no symptoms apparent to me. Of course as it was under extended warranty and I was already paying the deductible for the compressor and the transmission fix so might as well throw in a turbo.

The F-150 loaner I had had the 5.0 V8 and it was smooth as well. The 1.5 L Ecoboost in the Escape not so much.

I don't know? Having Auto Start/Stop on three loaners for a total of about a month and a half in the past two years I can say it depends on the vehicle. In the two escapes it felt really rough, but on the F-150 it seemed smoother. I would assume the weight helps with less vibration entering the cabin upon starting and stopping. The AC also seemed to work better in the F-150 than with the Escapes. I would say try before you buy on a long city route.

I know it is a minor scratch and as I stated I am not worried about getting it fixed it is just the principle of the matter. If someone makes a mistake own up to it. That is very important in my ethical view of the world.

I will definitely try that. I just have to finish this summer semester on Thursday and then three days of freedom before I am back on contract.

Apparently someone somewhere scraped my car in a parking lot and has left scrape marks on the passenger side rear bumper. As this is a plastic part I am not worried about it rusting but I am still frustrated that some jerk would do this and not even leave a note. I mean honestly it will not be worth it to get it fixed as I keep a pretty high deductible and I don't really want to spend the money to fix it right now while paying for graduate school out of pocket. I also will keep this car hopefully until I drive it into the ground and their are already a few bumps and scrapes that I have inflicted but the unknown ones piss me off. I have attached a picture. Honestly if the perpetrator would have just left a note I wouldn't have pursued it. Is just the principle of the matter. As it is on the passenger side I do not know when it happened as I rarely am on that side. Ok rant over sorry.

I am not sure about the build data for the 2nd Gen Edge but from the picture that looks like the base sync system which I believe is standard on the SE and I do not think that the SE has active park assist so I am not sure that this is the correct answer.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22396-2012-edge-hid-replacement-bulbs/ This thread may help as well. I will go with the CBI's when replacement time comes. If you don't mind me asking how many miles are on your edge.

I am not 100% certain but I do not think you have to disassemble the bumper to replace the headlight. I have played around with them a bit just for when the time comes to replace them. 1st you need to unscrew the the plastic cap on the back of the assembly under the hood. 2nd disconnect the clip that powers the lights. I didn't do this yet but I think it may take a flathead screwdriver to open the clip. 3rd twist bulb so it is loose in the housing and pull out. Reverse steps to install new lights. Again this is just from observing and taking it a partially apart but I do not see the need for taking the bumper apart. Out of precaution I will disconnect the negative battery cable due to the nature of HID bulbs and ballasts. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Well interestingly when it was at the dealer they determined that a fault had occurred and the HVAC control module needed to be reprogrammed. Since that has been done their hasn't been a recurrence but then again it only happened once. Although another minor annoyance seems to have been fixed with this as well. If it was really humid outside which here it West Texas isn't to frequently the recirculation setting would turn itself off. We have now had a recent four five days of high humidity for us and rainfall (hallelujah) and the recirculation has stayed on the entire time.

Well here is my new input after getting it done. DON'T do it. The first time I had it done it worked great but the second time it burned up the catalytic converter hence the check engine light coming on. I am actually really ashamed that I did it and it was a $1500 lesson learned a bit to late, but let my pain be your gain. Thankfully their was no effect on the turbo. The a low pressure fuel sensor was also replaced thankfully that was under the extended warranty. Now I find it highly suspicious for the check engine light to come on less than 30 minutes after the service was done. So buyer beware. I have already exclusively switched to top tier fuels and will continue to do that as long as I own the car.

So something my Edge has tended to do since I have owned it. Sometimes but not every time when I am playing music from my iPod Touch when I stop and get out at the store or to get gas when I get back in and start the car I manually have to start the music again either using the touch screen or the right side lcd steering wheel controls. I had a new APIM installed back in April and I was hoping that would have solved this issue although all of the other issues have been resolved (freezing screen, dropped bluetooth connection, navigation issues). So my question is could this be the iPod it self or is it just a MFT gremlin that will continue. The iPod is rather old as it is a 4th generation iPod Touch which was purchased in late 2010. The screen is completely whited out from heat I am assuming, but it still functions in the car rather well except for the above issues. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Yes I agree. Again surprisingly it is running very well.