mcali6301

The 2011 Edge had the TSB for the Valve body gasket and checkball delete, that fixed my first 2011 Edge...When I got my 2011 Edge sport, I had them do the same TSB work anyway so avoid the problem again.

I had an issue like that about a year ago, as soon as I bought the car, I noticed the right strut was busted, I made the dealer replace both of them. Every-time I pressed the gas, the steering wheel would slight jerk to the right. Dealer tried to tell me it was torque steer, another dealer had the car for 2 months, replaced axles, power steering pump, steering rack, they called in a field service engineer, and even checked with the PLANT that built the car, they pretty much gave the car back and told me nothing they can do..Finally I took it to an alignment shop where they found that the right lower control arm bushing was so work out, the rubber was peeling off and hanging under the car..I had him put it in writing and took it back to the dealer, they replaced the right lower control arm and that FINALLY fixed the issue all under warranty thank goodness...Whoever had the car before me must had hit a huge pothole before trading it in...Sorry to say but the Ford techs in this case, showed some incompetence with this issue, the fix was right under their noses the whole time. They were overthinking the problem. You can see my thread on this forum. I do not believe the subframe tweaking response at all..unless the car has been in an accident and bent the frame, that is not the problem. Take the car to a suspension/alignment specialist, someone who's been doing it for years and that's all they do.

I know exactly what you mean and noticed the same thing, not only is shifting smoother, but physical shifting (from P, R and to D and back) is also smoother!

I have the 2011 sport and I'm pretty sure that the OLM is mileage based. I did not see IOLM in the manual. I've been running Synth Blend and I'm at 5500 miles now. Oil looks like it needs to be changed very soon but OLM states 56% So it seems to me that the OLM is assuming I'm using Full Synth.

It is with extreme pleasure that I announce, my car is NOW repaired. The issue is resolved, the car does not pull anymore!! This whole time, it was the freakin RIGHT LOWER CONTROL ARM, the front bushing in particular was worn out and eventually torn to the point that it was sticking out from under the car. I said it time and time again, MOST LIKELY the owner before me hit a large pothole and damaged the strut and LCA in the process. I'll be sending an email to the dealerships to let them know just for future reference! I'm too relieved to even be mad! :happy feet:

Tell me about it...Especially the first dealership I brought it to who sold the car to me with a broken right strut, I told them it's pretty clear that the car hit a large bump prior to being traded in. They just shrugged it off and said it was normal.

Went for a test drive so the tech could hear the rattle. They replaced the right LCA and so far on the streets I DO NOT feel any pulling....Need to take on the freeway to reach final conclusion but it's looking good!!!

Well, the car is in and we will find out shortly...

It's much cheaper to plasti-dip them or even wrap them. The can costs about $5 and the wrap can be even cheaper online and all you would need is a heat gun or blow dryer... I've seen those ford badges on etsy for almost $90...I don't know how anyone could pay that much for them

Looks like you can fit 285's on the edge sport rims? If so I really like that idea! I'm using pirelli scorpion zero asimmetrico 265/40's now...

I *always* use the brake JUST enough to keep the car from resting on the parking pawl.

I know when you park on an incline WITHOUT the E brake, the car is basically resting on the parking pawl so shifting out of P will give you a clunk. This is why when I park on an incline, I always engage the E brake FULLY before shifting into park. I have had an issue in the past where there as some extra vibration from the front end when reversing with moderate throttle and reversing uphill. This was due to a worn engine mount.

Thanks for that input! I'm under premium care so I know the dealership will ONLY replace the LCA that they consider shot and replace it with a Motorcraft one. If it DOES fix this steering issue (gosh, how many times have I said that...) Then MAYBE I can get them to replace the other as a consolation for MISSING this in the first place! I wouldn't hold my breath on that however so I may just have to come out of pocket with the other. If this fixes the issue though, I'll be so ecstatic I won't even care for while....

I took it in for another opinion. He agreed that the rear bushings do not look bad. weird but OK... However, the forward bushing on the right LCA was worn out and the rubber was even poking out of the hole like string..the mechanic grabbed the right wheel and was able to move it along with the control arm..Not sure how Ford never caught this but if the problem didn't exist then back in October then probably this is a separate issue from my "wandering issue" He documented it so I will take to Ford and see if they will replace the LCA under warranty... Question: should I just aim to get both LCA's replaced or is one good enough for now?

I definitely see a difference there, the rubber on yours looks solid (I am in NO way looking at the rust, I'm sure that is normal). Now I realize that mine is probably not considered "worn" compared to the pictures of worn bushings I've seen on the internet but if those gaps or soft rubber are making the LCA move in any way I can definitely see how this is causing my issue. I guess unless you drive the car and see for yourself I just sound crazy (I'm used to it by now) LOL...Heck, my wife doesn't even notice it! She thinks I'm crazy! lol I've brought this up to the dealership again to see what they say. If they don't want to look into it then I'm just going to have them replaced anyway.