arabski

yeah, no need to order the assembly - just order a $3 micro switch and replace it (check out the details). One good thing having the whole assembly replaced is the "new car" feel, as the shifter knob is now soft and smooth... correct, it was the PRNDS light. I drove like that for few weeks and it does not really matter much (you know which gear you are in). I eventually put it back in place one day (5 minutes operation) the bulb goes into the bottom-back side of the cover.

I sold my car when changing my job last December. Since I logged any expense related to the car, I was able to calculate the total cost of ownership for it. I hope it will help anybody make up his/her mind when buying a car like that in the future. Enjoy: Trim: Sport, model: 2013, purchase date: Nov 2013. Bought via Saudi dealer in Dammam, Saudi Arabia for $ 41,333k (prices are a bit off in the Middle East). Sold - Dec 2013 with 92,722 kms (57,965 miles) on the odo meter for $ 17,333. I burned 13077 liters of fuel in total, fuel cost $2,878.40 (Saudi Arabia & Bahrain fuel prices mostly) Total cost of other expenses, including: - insurance, - set of tyres - two sets of windscreen wipers - a gear shifter (link to other thread here) - servicing and accessories - window tinting - export and registration fees (at some point I moved to Bahrain) - DLRs from drivebright ...all up it was $5,745 spent in 3 years. (intentionally excluding only the JL Audio StealthBox, that we all know does not make much financial sense to own, but I didn't want it to spoil the calculation) Sum it all up and deduct the sale price -> TCO for 3 years and 60k miles comes down to ~ $32,623.30 divide everything again by 38 months and here is what you got -> Total cost per month: $858.51 Total cost per 100km: $106.34 (~$170 per 100 miles if I count correctly). I wonder if anybody can relate. I can't tell if this is a lot or not - there are plenty of hidden costs that we usually do not take into consideration when buying a car - this time I managed to capture any dollar, dirham or dinar spent - hence the detailed summary. I really liked the car, I am considering getting '16 Edge Sport if the local dealer in UAE presents any good offer for these last year models - especially having learnt they DO provide a warranty for the sunroof this time (3 years) and servicing plan offering basically 6x oil changes in 3 years (one every 6 months). Here's a link to my motostat fuel tracking profile (non-fuel related costs remain hidden).

...I just sold mine... 3 years and 59k miles - reliable and rewarding machine... but I won't probably buy another Ford after those annoyances that cost so much to fix (vista sunroof, shift to park, A/C button...). Good thing I never had any major failure and the car is (if you dont count the roof that does not open) in perfect shape. A new owner should be happy for at least until the drivetrain warranty runs out.

...maybe not 8 inches, more like 5... but seems it's the same thing

2016 model and yet the same problem make sure you use your roof (and lube it) as often as you can to avoid any damage. It is not covered by extended warranty and it is freaking expensive to replace (once you run out of warranty).

...ok, so I pulled out my micrometer and verified sizes of the switch: 13.3 mm x 5.25mm x 6.4mm and started digging... here you go: comes even with posts (on the left) and the hinge lever! https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/sw/14/d2hw.html one just need to figure out how to order it...

I guess one good reason to replace the whole assembly is that feel of a brand new gear lever. Although mine after 3 years and 60k+ miles still looks almost as good as new... BTW. there is a tiny logo on the microswitch saying OMRON

I think you nailed it... PRNDS is not illuminated now. I'll fix it tomorrow! thanks! Yes - full assembly.

so how do they look installed?

And since I am not allowed to post 18 pictures in one thread... I had to split it in two: Done. I was already starting to feel proud of myself that day. Now quick compare of serial numbers: So I started putting things together in the reversed order. I took my time cleaning out dust from all the parts just for my own satisfaction. One thing I could not get right was this little light. If anybody know where does it go, I would appreciate the comment. It only lits up when lights are on - I have no idea where did that come out from... All nice and shiny. Shift to Park warning only shows when I don't shift to park... Brand new shifter installed. Everything seems to be working fine. I also took an effort to clean things up underneath. The whole thing took me around two hours but I spent most of it trying to figure out how to get that damn shifter line detached from the nose of the shifter assembly. I still think that Ford could have made it much easier for us by simply offering a switch replacement (I mentioned it back here), but at least now I have a brand new gear shifter too...

Inspired by this thread, I ordered myself a brand new shifter assembly from QuirkParts for a quarter of a price asked by a local Ford dealer in Bahrain (not to mention these guys told me to pay and wait for 6 to 10 weeks, like we were living on a freaking Moon or something...). Anyway, temperatures in that desert land are in low 30s these days (for Farenheit guys it will be like 85 to 95F), so I decide to do some DIY. I started my research on YouTube, but other than complaining on SHIFT TO PART issue, nobody actually did show anything useful. Except for those two guys - I learned that is it super easy to remove these silver rails. Unfortunately that was the last easy thing to do... Once removed, I was able to unscrew 6 bolts holding the glossy cupholder surroundings (I dont know how you call that part, so I'll just say cupholder assembly). Once you do that, you will have to detach the bottom part from the radio assembly. But I didnt feel comfortable doing it (it could have bent...). I didnt want to risk doing it, so I also removed the radio frame (it comes off pretty easily after removing another 6 bolts holding the frame around the radio screen and upper vents). Once you remove the whole frame it is much easier (and less risky) to detach the radio frame from the cupholder assembly. Next step is to detach the gearbox lever from the gear hifter. Simply pry it open genlty. It comes off pretty easily. No locks or bolths here... Next work your way though 4 bolts holding the main shifter assembly through each its corner. Here's where the fun starts. The gearbox lever line is attached to the shifter assembly with a clever lock. You won't be able to see that thing untill you remove some of the side panels. It is not a hard thing to do but if this is the first time you are removing these panels it may get a bit frustrating - they fit pretty tight. All the mounts are using the same type of clamps like you saw earlier trying to remove these two long silver rails surrounding the cupholder assembly. Now - once you get access, have a look on the replacement shifter assembly to see how the line lock fits into it. Ford must have some special tool that makes it easy to remove it. Unfortunatelly for me I didnt have anything. So I start from prying edges of the clamp with a tiny scredriver just to realize it can be simply pulled with a finger (genlty). Then it comes out. Stressful and frustrating to begin with, but when I think about it now - not complicated at all (I wish I knew earlier, because when I first saw this thing I was ready to give up). Looks pretty harmless when removed, doesnt it?

so... I fixed my shifter. I'll make a longer writeup with pictures, but for now all I can say is that I am dissapointed with the reason for all that hard work... Have a look: Is there a reason why would Ford not sell this tiny little crappy switch with the attached cabling alone as a replacement part? Think of all the man hour of pointless work put into replacing the whole damn shifter. And resources wasted to make it... when all you really need to replace is that TOTALLY REPLACEABLE switch . And I don't think Ford is earning money on that part, but rather I am thinking it is a blame of some idiot working in a garage who came across this problem for the first time and made a call to replace a shifter. And everybody followed... By the way, if I knew that replacing of the whole assembly will take me so long, I would've just replaced this tiny element as it is totally possible without removing the assembly (just remove the cup holders and get the element replaced). You have to make a call yourselves when doing this. One benefit of getting the new shifter is that you will have a brand new shifter. Mine looked like new, so I really did a lot of unnecessary work...

these two videos show how to remove the trim... looks like a 15 minutes job. Tomorrow I'll try to replace my assembly!

greetings from the middle east (Omar's neighborhood )... extended warranty on my Ford covers the drive train here for up to 5 years ( and 150k miles) - that's what they say... What it actually means is that they only ask you to service the car every 5k miles and not much more. Mine has 56k miles (to date, 3 years old next month). Let's see how much longer my will PTU last here...

I ordered my shifter last week from quirkparts - nice and easy... (as opposed to $ 500 + labor charge via the dealership in Bahrain). My 2013 Sport model uses CT4Z-7210-FB shifter - the one without gear change +/- buttons ($ 122 shipped). The weather (over 100F) does not allow me to replace it just yet - waiting for some cooler days to come (october, perhaps)... One more thought... if that crappy part is connected with 4 bolts and there is no trace of any heavy electronics on it, what are the chances that one of these cables needs to be grounded in order for the "P" thing to light up? Poor man's fix should be available without replacing the whole thing I guess...

+1 on this here.... but only when it is super hot. If the dealer asks for another $1000, I'll try fixing it myself first

- check the vista roof for cracks and if it opens all the way back (and closes with no issues) ​- inspect PTU for any signs of leaks ​- check if all buttons on the Sony A/C console work ​ ​in another threads you can find discussion on MPG. Mine averages 14.07L/100km (16.8MPG according to google)

Mine is getting slower every day now... ...has anybody tried to disassemble the actuator, clan it, maybe lubricate...? I can imagine 2 years in the desert it must be really dirty inside...

with all annoyances mine brought me (stuck roof, electrical malfunction of A/C button), I have to say IT IS a tough and reliable car (2013 sport). I live in the Middle East, when most of the year night temperature is usually above 90F, so imagine what do these cars have to deal with mid day... (110F today at noon, and it's still May!). Anyways, Ford was kind enough to extend warranty for the drive train and engine till 125k miles (200 kkm). Let's see if I make it problem free...

Washed and made some pics: (LEDs on rear plate lamps) (LED Front indicators)