solas989

We had the hottest day here so far 95F with 80%+ humidity. We went to an outside dog charitable event and our Edge sat in the direct sun from ~1PM to ~4PM (not a bloody tree to found). I used my sun shield and cracked the windows during this time (BAMR remained closed to block sun). Upon re-entry with 4 adult humans hot and sweaty from being outside with no shade and 3 dogs (70lbs, 40lbs and 20lbs) panting away tired from all the walking, we were cool within 10-15 minutes (well the humans were, the dogs I assumed were since they were all sleeping in the back). I vented the Edge while loading the dogs (~3 minutes). I used recirculate mode to do the initial cooling and moved over to normal after that. The drive on the way home was country roads (stop signs), then city (ston n go lights), then highway for a total time of ~30 minutes. I did not notice it struggling, it cooled just great with 4 hot humans and 3 hot dogs (mmmm hot dogs...). Just an update and more information to the situation.

Anyone know WHY we have to visit the dealer? My local dealerships are morons and would likely screw it all up! I do have intermittent BT connectivity issues every now and then. What I really like is the - That is pure BS if they try to enforce it!!!!

FWIW - I have tested and verified this on our hot days here in the midwest - mid 90's w/ 70-10% humidity (effectively upper 90's,lower 100's). I have left it out in the sun for a few hours (min 2) while shopping or doing errands or visiting family - with and without a heat shield (thing to block the sun in windshield). With shield, it cools off very quickly - almost as quickly a smaller import imo. As little as 7 minutes (but that was with only 1 person) Without shield it does take some time - but venting the hot air out helps drastically (BAMR, all windows down). Leaving windows cracked helps keep the initial high temp lower too. I do not seem to have this same problem other report - after ~20 minutes with 5 people in car, the temp is raised and recirculate is turned off. Maybe 90F not hot enough? I have not tried the glove box theory yet. Just my $0.02

bbf2530 - thanks for trying to help me out. I am not attempting to single anyone out here or trying to fight - I am just looking for documented information and not internet word of mouth. I am skeptical because I can say I am a NASA engineer and write my recommendation that looks nice - but that would be a larger pile of bull...well you get the idea. As a side note, I know many people say "Just take it to your dealer - they know best". Well, I have have several bad experiences (one includes OVER FILLING OIL to blow seals on a Windstar) with all the local dealers here (unless I travel 50+miles for oil change) so that is not an option. Further, I have done what I have done and that is in the past. I am attempting to clarify for others and for my future vehicles (in 8 years or 150,000 miles, which ever is first). For reference, I have gone to several Ford boards (trucks cars etc) and there is the same ongoing battle. I was able to get the Ford WSS-M2C930-A spec and "ILSAC GF-4 Minimum Performance Standard for Passenger Car Engine Oils" from this search - but matching it up with other brand oils is difficult. I find oils that match both specs - but I can not determine what is best for break in or life of car - trying to find the answer to the massive debate. The friction coefficient - can you give me this spec - or explain it in more detail? I understand that synthetic creates less friction than semi synthetic - but are their numbers attached and documented? From what little I understand...the HTHS Viscosity is what determines the ring/bearing wear (or as some stated on internet - the slipperiness). Can anyone shed more light on this? Further, I understand that Ford is the one to fix my car, not oil brand X. Maybe the best thing to for where I am coming from (change oil at 1000 miles to rid contaminants) is to use Ford Semi-Synthetic oil at 1000 miles, change the oil filter and then change over at 7500 miles to a full synthetic (or brand/type X). Note: I have read many specs and reviews on the current Motorcraft 5w20 oil and it is indeed a good oil - tightly spec'd - it does not last as long as say Amsoil - but if you are changing per Ford recommendation (and you should), that should not be a problem. Thanks

Ok...hypothetical question. If one swaps out the 5w20 Motorcraft oil with 5w20 Motorcraft oil at 1000 miles (not 3000), what is the harm? It is the same oil with the same properties and should not affect ring setting properly - correct? It is the same oil properties it came with from the factory fill right? Second, according to Fords WSS-M2C930-A spec, isnt the "HTHS Viscosity, mPa-sec @ 150°C & 106 1/sec (ASTM D 4683 or CEC L-36T-84)" spec we want to look at - which relates to ring/bearing wear? HTHS = High Temperature/High Shear. Ford specs it at a MINIMUM 2.6 If I am assuming incorrectly, please explain why. I am only trying to make heads or tails of the plethora of information available with no real solid proof. Thanks

I personally do not like K&N filters because I have seen first hand the amount of dirt the DO let into the engine during a rebuild. I believe it is not a good trade of to gain a small amount of power and possibly MPG. Now, if you are getting rid of your car in 3 years, then there is no problem, for me, that is not an option. I agree that braking indirectly hurts MPG. I agree that rapid acceleration does not harm MPG a lot IF not done repeatedly. IF one races to the next red light for 5 lights in a row, the one who does not accelerate hard will get better MPG in the end. If you accelerate hard to get on to the highway (assuming it is not a parking lot), that situation will not reduce MPG by any measurable means. Items reducing MPG (includes what others stated) Tire pressure low A/C On (~1-2MPG less ime) Windows down (.5-1.5MPG less ime) Drive Through's (idle) Accelerating/constant speed up to a red light Thing to increase MPG Dont accelerate hard in stop n go traffic Dont speed (the faster you go, the more air you have to push out of way thus more resistance thus using more fuel) Avoid drive throughs if you can - walk in if you have the time Keep unnecessary items out of your vehicle - extra weight reduces MPG Keep the car clean and waxed and smooth - this most likely will not give any statistically improvement in MPG but generally air goes around smooth objects better than rough - maybe. Park in shaded areas, vent your windows. If you live in a hot climate, the less you have to A/C your car after it sits outside the better. Plus it will help keep your interior from cracking warping. Use a windshield sun blocker - keeps sun from getting into the car, see parking in the shade. I dont know if this helps, but in cold temps, I used to not turn on the heat until the car was warmed up (by driving). I thought that if I was not attempting to pull heat from the engine, it would warm up quicker, this is probably not the case. Be an early braker. If you see a light turn red, brake early so you will coast up to the light, a lot of times you will get to the light when it is green again and not have to make a complete stop. You can use hypermilling techniques - however, beware of your area. Many govt's are now cracking down on it will will ticket you (looking at drafting semis). Also, if you are holding up the flow of traffic, I know people who have been pulled over for doing so. Just my $.0.01

For those that have the issues of wax turning rubber, black plastic white - what wax and or glaze do you use? My product selections do not do this (or maybe I am just that good - which I think not). I use Klasse AIO, Klasse HGSG and Nattys Blue Paste Carnuba for a great brilliant shine with no black area issues. As for the other areas around the glass, I treat these at other painted areas of the car - AIO, HGSG and Carnuba. These are plastic parts (if I am thinking of the same are you are). But I am most likely doing it wrong as others will point out. I like the Glass Science line for glass cleaners (Glass Scrub+Rain Clear). It lasts a long time, but then again, I dont use the wipes much). I like it better than the Rain-X line. Solas

I have been using Amsoil for years now in several vehicles from low mileage to high mileage. All engines are in GREAT shape. When samples sent to Blackstone Labs for analysis, none have failed (highest mileage was ~18K miles on a MR2 - families car) The ARE API certified American Petroleum Institute. I dont think the 0W is certified, not according to the website. That all being said - FOLLOW Ford's recommended schedule during your warranty and oil weight! Any deviation and Ford could deny you warranty work on your engine. Amsoil has a 7500 mile oil that I use in our Edge - it is cheaper than the long mile version. Solas

The stations I listen to are: 001, 060, 061. When my wife drives, she listens to 050, 063, 111 I hear compression on all of these enough to not renew. There are others but I dont know numbers off hand (033 is one I think). I compare it to listening to Online Radio with a compression rate of 96bkps - not good enough for me to pay for it. It is worse on talk stations like 111. I know they have to cut down the bandwidth to accommodate the music stations but I hate the sound. Now I dont know if geographical location affects compression, I have no idea but would think not - not too familiar with all the details of Satellite Radio. For reference, this is my FIRST exposure to Satellite Radio and have not heard it on other receivers other than in my Ford. Maybe there is a setup setting I need to change to enhance the sound??? IMO, paying for something that I feel is inferior is not worth it - especially in todays economy and where it is headed. Solas

Really the only person that can determine if it is worth it is the user. Some dont spend much time in their cars, but love it. I spend maybe 1-3 hours in my car, and can not stand it. To me, it is not. I love my music and I will rip apart sound quality - and this is my first experience with Sirius and I HATE the horrible compression issues on the sations I listen too. Others it does not bother. If you can not hear the compression, then dont worry about it. I do not listen to all channels and maybe the compression is not as bad as others, but I will refuse to pay for something that sounds worse than I can get for free (HD or SD radio). Just my $0.01

Ours is being turned off - of the stations we listen to, I can NOT stand the compression - it is horrible to pay for something that sounds bad. I agree that it does help knowing the stations no matter where you are - but it is not worth it imo. We have media players we hook up to play to get around that. Plus, a lot of the "music" stations have too much talk. If I wanted to pay someone to listen to them, I would listen to my wife for free ( ) Solas

Yes, thank you - I put 7500 miles on in 3 month easily! I usually forget the Months factor because of this. Solas

I prefer 303 Protectant - plus it add UV protection Meguirs and Mothers are excellent products too - dont use them but are reputable companies. Attempt to stay away from Oil based products. 303 are not oil based like AmorAll. Solas

I agree with FOLLOWING MANUFACTURER OIL INTERVALS - period, the end. I am doing that - every 7500 miles - that is why I use the 7500 mile oil from Amsoil - fits great!!! Once out of warranty, baam, 15K to 20K intervals. But why add to manufacturers defense when you dont have to? Of course, plan to change the filter once within the 7500 miles. Amsoil meets the required specs. Ford can not deny me a warranty claim when I used the proper oil in the proper intervals. Receipts will ASSIST in proving you did oil changes to get the process started. It does NOT prove you did them though. When Ford dismantles the engine to find it clean is when they will see they will have to warranty your claim. There is a process that must be gone through if Ford is bucking at the warranty work - at least there is for GM and Chrysler. The receipts are part of that process if you change your own oil. I would NEVER go more than 7500 miles while in warranty - not worth ANY warranty risk. Especially since I am starting to dislike the vehicle - we have to baby it. Further, I will NEVER trust a Ford Service Dept to change my oil - bunch of MORONS. Just my thoughts and experience. Solas

This made me chuckle Go back to the dealer and demand them put the buttons on your steering wheel - FALSE ADVERTISING!!! Just kidding - yes, they were eliminated on 08 - I dislike the auto climate and dual zone stinks imo (large cross drafts). Solas