12Edge

Hi All, I have a 2012 Ford Edge SE with manual A/C that looks like this: Living in Texas the blower motor usually stays on maximum. In winter its usually below medium. It was not until i purchased my daughter a 2012 Ford Focus that I noted her car's blower when on maximum just about blows your hair back pretty well, certainly way more than my edge. So I started testing mine by changing speeds and realized that the max setting and the second from the top are nearly identical in speed. The sound the motor makes changes nearly imperceptibly when switching, outside of that I would not say the air speed changes in a noticeable manner. So my question is for those who have a similar system, is that comparable to what your system does or have I gotten use to a defective blower/control? Thanks for feedback!

Yes I am aware. I was just ranting that a SECOND door has now had this issue. This is my work to home and back car so I'm generally the only one in it. The only reason the rear door duty cycle is higher than the passenger side doors is I open it to put my things in the car to go to work. As a result of this increased use it failed. I took the first one apart and the thing isn't even serviceable. I note that the new part is now a "B" part so it means even they know something is wrong :/

This is a crock of $h!t problem Ford. I now have had TWO doors with this failure. The duty cycle for your part is woefully inadequate to the normal customer. Ripping people off for hundreds of dollars per door after the fact due to defective parts is making me stray from Ford on my next purchase :/ My wifes car just switched from Ford. Mine will be next.

Good Call HotRod, I actually have a pair of those type of clamps. Guess I will get to try it now that my driver side REAR door is now door adjar'ing ! Ford has a DEFECTIVE part here and the price has gone up since I bought the front one by $50. What a racket :/ I guess putting my stuff in the back seat on the way to work and opening the door as much as the front door has taken its toll on that switch :/ Full Retail do it yourself this is $1000 worth of parts for 4 doors. Come on Ford, Own your mistake. I have a note on a fixya account of 3,897 people helped with my link to this tutorial. If that doesn't indicate a defect/problem I don't know what does :/

kkrace, Thanks for the feedback. I had suspected that the bolt for the handle might just have to be loosened. At some point I edited post 1 to include try loosening it. I didn't have an issue with the door module perimeter bolts. I just tightened them with a ratchet until they felt good and snug. I didn't see a torque spec in the service manual. Just the one on the window. Great video! Always good to have corroboration. There is enough info here we should be able to get folks through a replacement if they are adventurous enough.

Here is the "How To" on replacing it: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14262-how-to-replace-door-latch-module-for-door-ajar-warning/ I am going to do a postmortem on the old module after a bit and see what is actually failing and post it on you-tube if its something glaring to embarrass Ford.

Yeah, keep the OEM bulbs on hand and that relay. Assuming the relay is accessible. That way if you have any issues you can just pull over and revert the bulbs or try the other relay

HID Bulbs draw HUGE power when igniting then settle down to less power than halogens when operating. Therein lies the problem. Capacitors are recommended by many sellers to work around this problem but I find the battery to be the ultimate capacitor Folks have posted on here that they have used capacitors and it worked while others say it didnt do any good. Considering the Body Control module provides the power for the headlights I would rather not fry that thing over not wanting to install a harness with a relay.

Saved

The service manual recommends that the window be programmed for auto up and down. If you find the auto up/down not working the way to set it is to put the window all the way up manually then pull power after you press the auto down. I had left the button control piece hanging loose out of the door and inserted the plug under the windows buttons but not snapped it in. Then I set the window in motion and pulled the plug out. Plug it back in and put the window all the way up. Press and hold down until the window hits bottom and hold it for 1/2 second longer and release. Do the same going back up. Auto up/down should work.

I made a quick post verbally explaining how to take apart the door to get at the latch module. Since then I have tried the lubricant and cleaner sprays but the problem does now go away. I finally bought the latch module itself, Levittown had it for $75. What follows is a photographic explanation on how to take apart a door to get at the driver door latch module. These instructions were made with my 2012 Edge that has keyed locks on the drivers door, not the remote sensor lock mechanism and a keyless entry pad on the door. At some point I will take apart the old door module and put up a postmortem. You can actually see the micro switch and I could hear it "clicking" as I moved its mechanism so I don't know what it could be Step 1: Remove Trim and window buttons to gain access to screws: Step 2: Remove perimeter door trim screws: Step 3: Disconnect window switches and main bolts attaching door trim: 4: Remove Door Trim and disconnect internal wires: 5: Loosen the window saddle bolts. You will need to raise/lower the window to bring them in to view of the access ports. When installing Torque to 7Nm or 63 lb-in or just over 5 lb-ft, this is out of the Ford service manual 6: Separate window glass from door module and tape closed: 7: Remove bolts for door handle and door latch: EDIT - You may only have to loosen the bolt in the center photo as I think it just presses against the plastic of the handle, it didnt actually go through it?! Try that first? 8: Remove the door handle: Video of how to take out door handle: http://s645.photobucket.com/user/SparkyDClown/media/EdgeLatchModule/VIDEO0069_zps9213ecfd.mp4.html 9: Detach wires from mirror and door so it can move freely: 10: Removal of door module. This was a bit tricky. I had to wiggle and shift the module around as the latch parts are still recessed towards the edge of the door. The window regulator arms also protrude and can scratch so do this carefully and don't force anything! I got the best results by sliding it to the right and down slowly: 11: Removing the Latch Module from the Door Module: 12: Linkages on latch module: TIPS for reassembly: ORIGINAL FULL SIZE/QUALITY PHOTOS CAN BE VIEWED HERE: http://s645.photobucket.com/user/SparkyDClown/library/EdgeLatchModule/EdgeLatchRaw?sort=3&page=1

The relays are common enough at auto parts stores for about $20. You shouldn't have to spend the money on it but if you want to rule it out....

Where does one install Blinker Fluid?

The only way the ballast would be "Buzzing" is if it were powered. Is it possible the relay was mis-configured and the ballast was always getting power regardless of the light switch state? I assume you had the relay power switching lead connected directly to the battery? So basically the relay was tripped/triggered by powering cars light circuit and that made the relay make contact from the battery connected wire to the ballast power in? I was able to make mine buzz when I ran it off AC to DC converted power and the inverter was at the lower limit of the amperage the ballast demanded.

Having read about these issues on these threads it seems the most common occurrence of the problem is when you do not have the relays and/or capacitors. Having said that, last night when I was heading home for the first time since i installed the lights several months ago I had a bulb not light. The system was on auto. Moving to manual on did no good. In the end I made a quick stop at a store (about 3 minutes) and when i came out and got in they both came on and have started 4 times since. For a few minutes there I thought I had lost a bulb or ballast. Yes, I have relays AND capacitors.