Polecatt

You are correct. Nothing you can do in this situation to disable keypad entry using the master code except possibly replace the entire BCM or physically unplug the keypad.

That's one of the videos I found. It is missing most of the more difficult steps in the rear latch replacement that seems to involve removing the "rear door module". Getting the trim panel off is easy... not sure about the door module.

I am having this issue as well... Have ordered and received the part. Now I'm looking for some help with the work. I have seen a few great videos referenced in this thread (and elsewhere), but these are for the front doors. Is anyone aware of a walkthrough that shows how to replace this on a rear door? I'm working on a 2012 ford edge rear passenger latch.

My passenger side air vents are stuck blowing hot only. I have been able to disconnect the passenger side blend door actuator and manually adjust the door position to adjust the passenger temperature and there is no resistance or binding in the door so I figure the problem is with the actuator. There doesn't seem to be any clicking or movement at all from the actuator. The part is a denso aw063700-8130. Is there any way to determine whether the part has failed or if could be an electrical issue? Also, where would be the best place to pickup a replacement part in the Toronto area, or online in canada?

This basically covers what I'm thinking... But I'm also concerned about the fact that the rotors warped so quickly. I know I don't drive it that hard. Not only did they miss the brake booster which I pretty clearly explained when I dropped it off, they caught it at the end of the day which meant I lost my car for the weekend. This is the dealer I bought the car from so I was expecting a little more support! They have even charged me $30 to plug a nail hole in the past. Technically rotors shouldn't need to be replaced because they are warped they should just be replaced due to wear the same as tires correct?? Or do they all warp as they get thinner ultimately leading to replacement?

I believe the dealer started to diagnose the problem by performing a brake inspection and through the inspection found that the rotors were "warped". The issue i reported was primarily that the brakes would not respond but only at slow speeds. I had to slam on the pedal to get any stopping power. Apparently they started with a road test and couldn't replicate so moved to an inspection. After the inspection and the rotor replacement, the service manager took a road test and experienced the issue and quickly diagnosed the brake booster. This was all done on the same day. Of course by then it was the end of the day and they couldn't order the parts so I couldn't drive over the weekend.

As for the dealership, is there any oversight of dealer practices or complaints by ford head office? Do they care when things like this happen? As for the diagnosis, service report said that they measured the rotors and found them to be warped and so replaced them. I will not be impressed if the quality of ford parts is such that I need to replace my rotors every time they are just past the 20,000 km warranty period.

Good point! I'm at work on my phone so not completely paying attention to what I'm typing...

Thanks for the suggestions. The challenge with this is that it is not a clear cut warranty issue. The work performed was for rotor replacement which would typically fall outside warranty coverage after 20,000 km if I understand correctly. Service initially misdiagnosed my actual problem which was a failed brake booster and assumed that a rotor replacement would fix my issue. I question whether the rotors required replacement because they were 14 months old with 21,000km. I know I don't drive like a madman on the brakes so premature wear on the rotors like this seems extremely unlikely. The brake booster was replaced under warranty after the rotor replacement did nothing to fix the problem. I don't think I should have to pay for the rotors first because the brake booster was actually the problem and second because I expect to get much better performance than 21k from my rotors. Do I need to adjust my way of thinking and get used to replacing rotors every 21k??

Is anyone able to provide some guidance on possible options for dealing with a dealership who won't issue a warranty claim? The service manager told me he would check with his local rep to see if they would issue a refund for work performed because he refused to submit the issue as a warranty claim. I got the impression he just wanted to get my money and get me out the door. Sure enough it's been a month and I haven't heard anything from him. Is it up to a local dealership to decide if a repair should be covered under warranty or can the decision be overruled by someone at a ford head office. I am in Canada btw...

Turns out there is no need to take any of the door panels off. The keypad just pops out at the ends.

Got the door panel off however this doesn't get me to the keypad. It is on the other side of the window mechanism and the panel which holds the speaker. There are 10 bolts holding this in place and I took them off but the panel is attached to the window. Any idea how I get through this second panel the pull the keypad plug?

I just had the dealership fix this issue on my 2012 edge. It was the brake booster. Replaced under warranty. Not safe to drive and it will likely keep getting worse until you have it fixed. I noticed that it was worst at low speeds either breaking while in reverse or in slow stop and go traffic

I just had to replace the rotors on my 2012 edge with 22000km. Service manager fought me hard that this is considered normal. If this is normal for a ford then they need to start producing better parts or I won't be buying a ford again. My break booster was replaced as well but that was covered under warranty.

I have never used the keypad or set a personal code but will reset all codes just in case to cover me until I get around to figuring out how to get the door panel off. I had also read somewhere that a faulty bcm could randomly trigger the doors to unlock

Basically that's what I'm looking for some guidance on. How to unplug the keypad. I assume it can be unplugged on the keypad side or on the central computer side. Any ideas how I can determine where the keypad connects on the computer side so I don't have to pull the entire door apart to disconnect it? Alternatively, is there a way to pop the keypad off and disconnect it without taking the door apart?

I know where the last three cars I sold privately are but I wouldn't break into them. And they didn't have keypad entry anyway. I suppose its really the same thing as having a copy of the key except you can't start the car with the door code.

Took the car in today and the dealer suggested that the master code can not be changed or disabled so basically I'm out of luck as is anyone else who buys a used ford with keypad entry. Is anyone able to point me to info that will help me unplug the keypad so I can temporarily disable it?

Stole some cash the first time which I no longer leave in the car but I think they come back hoping. I make sure not to leave anything of value on there... I'll check with the dealer next time I'm in and hopefully they can change the code or direct me to a specific fuse that disables just the keypad.

Anyone know of a way to disable the keyless entry keypad on the driver door? Someone got into my car one night when I accidentally left it unlocked and they must have taken the master 5 digit code from the card in the glove box because every few weeks I find my car unlocked in the morning knowing that I left it locked for sure. From what I understand the master code can not be changed so I want to disable the keypad by either pulling a fuse or disconnecting some wiring. Is there a way to do this?