TheWizard

Most depreciation happens just by driving it off the lot - the difference between new and used. Differences in model years (unless there are major redesigns or significant differences in options) are actually quite minimal. Once it becomes a used car, the difference in value between two otherwise identical vehicles is based on mileage and condition with model year being an almost insignificant factor. For example, if you compare a 2013 Edge Sport with 6,000 miles to a 2012 Edge Sport with the same equipment and same 6,000 miles, the difference in private sale value is only $330 ($31,354 vs. $31,024 according to Kelly Blue Book). Part of the reason is that the mileage is unusually low on the older vehicle. The same would happen when you buy a new but prior model year vehicle - you lose a couple of hundred dollars for the model year but you have a vehicle that will always have one year's worth lower mileage. That really becomes significant a few years down the road when your 5-year-old vehicle has only 48,000 miles while everybody else is selling the same model year with 60,000 miles. So buying the '13 and getting the $3,000 rebate instead of the $1,500 rebate on the '14 still saves you about $1,200 even when you factor in the extra $300 depreciation for the older model. And depending on how long you keep it, the value could be better later on. Oh, and a lease does not protect you from depreciation - the depreciation is calculated into the lease in the agreed upon residual value. It is not generally a financially sound decision to lease a vehicle unless you keep vehicles only for a relatively short time or you have business tax advantages to leasing.

Maybe that is what took them so long... they replaced the blinker fluid while they were changing the switch. I hope they used the good stuff...http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22

I am generally the type who gives great leeway to dealers because I worked in various dealerships for many years and I know the kind of problems they experience. However, I will say that in general, import dealerships tend to go the extra mile to satisfy customers much more than domestic dealers. This was especially true in the 80s and 90s but is still evident today. That said, I finally had the last straw with our local AutoNation (Mike Shad) Ford dealer after getting the Edge's turn signal switch replaced under warranty a few days ago. Unfortunately, I ended up so furious at them that I probably said some things I shouldn't have. But as I said, this was not a single incident but rather a chain of events involving two vehicles we purchased and have been having serviced there. Despite having an appointment, the T/S switch replacement took four hours to complete... it's a 0.6 (36 minute) job. The service writer kept trying to convince me that it was a two hour job despite the fact that I had read the service manual instructions (three bolts, remove trim panel, two bolts, remove switch, reverse to install). I don't abide being lied to (more on that in a moment). The real kicker was that when we finally got the vehicle back, the trim panel had not been reinstalled properly so we had to go back to get it fixed. What kind of quality control is that? The problems originally started with my '11 Mustang for which I bought a maintenance contract that covered ten oil changes and tire rotations for only $300. Each appointment included a multi-point inspection and fluid top-ups. I was getting these oil changes every 5K miles mostly for the tire rotations (the oil can go much longer than that) until the service writer told me that they only rotate every other service (10K miles) because more often was not necessary. With 30,000 miles on the car, I went to a local tire store to get all four new tires. The tech there brought me into the shop to see that all four tires were completely bald on the inside edge. Not only does that mean I needed an alignment but also that the tires had been rotated in that worn condition without the dealer ever advising me that they were wearing unevenly. Again... quality control? The same dealer service adviser tried to convince me that road hazard warranties only cover manufacturer defects and not things like nail punctures - totally false but I gave up trying to argue with him. The Edge had a noise in the steering when turning left that the dealer ended up replacing rack, pump, reservoir and hoses four times to resolve. What are the chances that four complete power steering systems all had the same problem? Or was it incompetent technicians again? Beyond that, we got a call from Enterprise that Ford was not going to pay for the rental they gave us as a loaner while the Edge was in the shop. We ignored it and I guess Ford eventually ended up covering the cost of their "loaner". The sales department was equally annoying. Buying a new vehicle is always an aggravating experience so I made allowances that maybe they really weren't any worse than other dealers... despite the fact that the deal was X-plan fixed pricing so it should have gone smoother. But the finance guy (who we could not avoid even though we had pre-approved financing) tried to sell us a "comprehensive" maintenance plan that covered all scheduled maintenance for 100K miles. It was an $1,800 contract but we would save so much money because it covered the "expensive" 500 mile service, 10,000 mile service, 25,000 mile service, etc. We would save hundreds of dollars. Of course, most of you know that there are no such service requirements on new Edges. In fact, other than oil changes, tire rotations and the occasional filter replacement, there is no scheduled service for the first 100,000 miles! This was the most bald-faced lie I have ever experienced in a dealership yet when I later complained to the finance manager, they didn't care. So, the end result was that I told them I wanted the balance of the oil change contract refunded so that we would never have to return to this dealer. It's a shame because they are so conveniently located but we just can't trust them.

You are SO right! Reading posts here allowed me to cut through the BS when the service writer told me that replacing the switch was a two hour job (like it might be on old style T/S switches that require removing the steering wheel, etc.) and explain to him that it was a 0.6 hour job at most.

The dealer installed the new switch on Tuesday and it is now much smoother like it should be. The difference is so dramatic that it really takes some time to get used to it. Unfortunately, the service was shoddy and I have told them that we will not be returning to them for service or to buy any more vehicles and that they should refund the balance of the maintenance agreement we purchased with the vehicle. Don't get me wrong... mistakes happen and I would never take this action based on one (or even more) problems. But the service this time was simply the straw that broke the camel's back. They have messed up almost every time I have brought either the Mustang or the Edge to them for warranty repairs or maintenance. Having been in the automotive field for almost my entire career, I find the poor workmanship of the technicians and the lack of quality control totally unacceptable and the BS and lies from their personnel have reached new heights. </rant>

Well we decided to give the dealer a try before doing the modification. Surprisingly, they agree that the switch is defective and should be replaced under warranty. Unfortunately, they also said that the demand has left the part on back-order. There are only four available across the country - all in individual dealers' inventory. They will try to secure one from one of those dealers but otherwise we will just have to wait until more stock becomes available.

When the headlights are run as DRLs, they end up getting lower voltage but it is not specifically the lower voltage that causes the problem with HID ballasts - it's the way the lower voltage is achieved that causes the problem. The circuit doesn't reduce voltage in the traditional way (resistance) but rather it is done electronically using a method called Pulse Wave Modulation (PWM). The system creates a square wave pulsed signal in such a way that the overall average voltage is reduced without the problems of heat and variability caused by adding resistance to a circuit. This works fine for incandescent bulbs such as halogen headlights because the bulb filament is not sensitive to the rapid pulsation. The problem is that an HID ballast doesn't like the pulsating feed and will sometimes refuse to start up. Oddly enough, more expensive ballasts built with better components are more susceptible to the problem because the better components react more quickly where cheaper components will sometimes just see the average voltage because of their slow reaction speed. This issue is not limited to aftermarket HID systems - factory HIDs have the same problem. Ford does not use factory HIDs for DRL... depending on the model, they use either the amber turn signals or the fog lights (turn signals are used on the Edge because it has no fog lights). This is why there is a program setting to set the DRL to the turn signals instead of the headlights.

That's interesting because Levittown Ford (a sponsor here) listed the 2013 for the same $28.65 as you show the 2014. But you're right - Ford Parts shows them as different prices. I've looked at 2014 models in the showroom and there is no obvious difference from the '13 but I suppose there might be internal differences that make them incompatible. Or maybe the original '13 part supersedes to the new '14 part from a different supplier.

Thank you! That is extremely useful information and I think I will try the modification this weekend.

I have always assumed that the incredibly stiff action of the electronic turn signal (multifunction) switch lever was just a lousy design. However, last week we rented a '13 Edge just like ours while on vacation and found that the turn signal lever moved very smoothly without the feeling that you had to push very hard to get it to stay on. It actually felt like a decent standard mechanical turn signal switch and not the electronic piece of crap I had been getting used to at home. I doubt our dealer would take me seriously if I suggested that the hard to move lever is a warranty issue but a replacement switch is under $50 so I am tempted to just buy one and do it myself. My question is how do others find their T/S switch? Does it move smoothly to the fully engaged position or does it feel like you almost need two hands to get it past the detent?

You could be right. It looks like it should fit (same overall size and very similar shape to the Edge sport cover) but I can't say for sure without actually trying it. Besides, I was unaware that the sport came with a cover so why would one want a Mustang cover?

Yes, I put that one on my Mustang and it really cleans up the look but the Mustang horse logo may not be what you want on an Edge.

The performance package engine cover should fit as well but it has a Mustang logo on it so you may not want that.

a - There is a small indicator light directly above the Dual button b - It should default to the last setting c - No, when you enable it the two sides (dual) adjust temperature independently. Turn it off to adjust both together (single). d - N/A

I don't think you have too much to worry about. From what I've seen, the Fusion center stack is very similar to the Edge. I've taken the Edge apart to install the Lock Pick navigation override and it was pretty simple. Everything was plug-and-play with distinct connectors that will only plug into a single socket and have locks to prevent them from coming loose. Anyone using reasonable care and common sense should be able to replace the panel without trouble. One thing to watch for is that your shifter illumination still works. If they pull the panel up too far, the LED socket detaches from the panel and it's a bear to reconnect (don't ask me how I know this).

Silly question... if your Fusion is new and under warranty, why would you need information on replacing it yourself? Just let the dealer take care of it - that's what your warranty is for.

Sorry, your post doesn't make sense. The differences between 3157, 3457, 3757, or any 3x57 (and even 4x57) bulbs apply only to the original incandescent bulbs. They all have the same base and wiring configuration (ignoring the CK versions which don't apply to Ford). The only difference is in the output of the two filaments as measured in candlepower or lumens. Since the wattage of LED bulbs is always specified separately, the distinction between various 3x57 models is meaningless (except the A on the end is for amber color of course) and almost all vendors use the generic 3157 designation to apply to 3057, 3157, 3357, 3457, 3757, 4057 and 4157 replacement. In fact, 3157 style dual filament bulbs can also be used to replace 3156 style single filament bulbs because the two inner contacts on the base that power the "dim" filament are not present (therefore ignored) in the single filament socket. This is how the rear turn signals are configured on the Edge - it's a single filament socket with a dual filament bulb.

You would never have to go all the way to the back for the rear turn signal circuit - it's available behind the left kick panel. I installed my strobe control box there because it was easy to connect to the signals and there was plenty of room for it. So, worst case scenario, you would have to run a pair of wires through the existing grommet in the firewall (it's fairly easy to reach once you remove the battery) to the left kick panel. But the trailer package wiring sounds like a better solution if it has what you need under the hood.

It's easy. The buttons are arranged in three distinct rows on the center stack. The top row is things that I use only if stopped (settings menu, navigation, etc.). The second row has two buttons stacked at the left to change source - one for radio and one for media (CD, USB, or hard drive... whichever was last used). There is a volume knob at the left edge and a tuning knob at the right with radio presets in a row between them so that's pretty easy because you can feel the individual buttons. The bottom row is climate controls - heated seat first on the left followed by the temp up/down rocker and then the fan speed rocker near the center - again, easy to use by touch alone. Anyone who can't remember that much probably doesn't remember what stations they have set on each preset either so it would be a moot point. As I said before, you can't use the steering wheel controls for many of those functions (volume being the notable exception) without looking at the menu or memorizing how many times to press the switches in each direction. Selecting radio presets is almost possible since the scan buttons will cycle through the presets but you can't directly choose one. And yes, SYNC is supposed to let you use voice commands. That would be great if it actually worked consistently but my experience is that I cringe when trying to use it because it either doesn't understand or gets it wrong. I can't tell you how many times I've said "radio on" or "sirius on" to get a response of "audio off". And forget trying to have it tune a station accurately.

There are a number of functions that cannot be performed In an MFT equipped Edge without using either the touch screen, the non-tactile flat touch controls (just as bad), or the disobedient voice controls. For example, fan speed, interior temperature, rear window defogger, seat heater, radio preset selection, audio source, etc. I can do all of those in my Mustang without ever taking my eyes off the road because it has real buttons that move and knobs that turn in addition to the touch screen. Sure, you can use the steering wheel controls for some of those but you have to watch the menus next to the speedometer unless you memorize how many presses in each direction are necessary. I have nothing against gadgets and convenience but MFT is gadgets without convenience. It is Ford's attempt to impress people in the showroom. Done properly, those gadgets can be made available without the distracting interface.

Way off topic from horn warning but I'd like to comment for those who actually like MFT... in my opinion MFT sucks. It's not the level of technology (I'm an IT Director so I can live with technology) but it's technology just for the sake of technology with no improvement of the driving experience. My '11 Mustang has the electronics package with 8" touchscreen and navigation and it is vastly superior to the MFT in my wife's Edge in so many ways. For one, I still have real buttons and knobs that I can use without taking my eyes off the road to look at the touchscreen. For another, it has REAL GAUGES (well, as real as modern cars get these days since they don't report real-time conditions). I won't talk about SYNC which I'm sure is somehow an acronym for "planned disobedience" in both vehicles. But in the Mustang I can do everything I need to while driving without using SYNC or the touchscreen. I was pleased to hear Ford's announcement that they have listened to their customers and will be returning to real tactile controls (instead of or in addition to the touchscreen) for most functions in the next generation of MFT. On a related subject - the electronic turn signal switch is stupid. It provides no discernible improvement in function over mechanical signal switches that have been around for 80 years. The automatic three flashes is a useless gimmick. Mechanical switches have had the lane change feature since the 60s, so all you have to do is hold the lever up or down while changing lanes and then let it go. You get as many flashes as you need for the time it takes you to change lanes (yes, I know the electronic one can do the same thing... but how is that an improvement?) Six months of ownership and I still find myself checking the dash to see if the signals cancelled because there is no reassuring click of the mechanical lever returning to the neutral (off) position. And yet the electronic switch takes so much effort to engage that I frequently end up flashing the high beams and it feels like the GM switches of old that felt and sounded like they were about to snap off. Push button start is another answer to the question nobody asked. Was it really that much more difficult to insert and turn a key? I'll admit I like not needing to dig out a key to unlock doors when my arms are full. But once I've dropped my stuff in the back, there would be no problem using a key to start the vehicle. And that would certainly resolve the horn honking issue. Thanks for letting me rant.

I have no idea whether those would be appropriate for DRLs but from the description I expect the seller has no idea either. For example, they claim that the same bulb will fit both standard 3157 and 3157CK sockets. That would be an amazing feat since CK sockets put both ground pins on one side of the slot whereas standard sockets put both grounds at one end of the slot. Mixing them up will cause a dead short and blow a fuse. But you've already ordered them so you might as well try them. Yes, they will still need resistors. You wire a resistor on each side with one end connected to the turn signal power feed wire and the other end connected to ground. On the front left that would be the blue/green power wire to the black/green ground wire. On the front right it would be yellow/purple power to black/gray ground.

Yup, you're right there... the Tritons are impressive bulbs that are very bright and handle heat well enough to be used as DRLs. But they're almost $150 per pair for 3157 switchbacks. I'm not saying they aren't worth every penny - just that they're not the kind of thing you find on ebay.

Maybe. There are a couple of problems though. Many of the inexpensive (no, actually cheap) LED bulbs found on ebay are not designed to handle heat very well and will fail in just a few weeks when used as DRLs because they are on constantly. Even better name brand LED bulbs such as V-LEDs specifically deny warranty for many of their bulbs if used for DRLs. Also, most of the cheap ebay bulbs are nowhere near as bright as even the stock incandescent bulbs so they really make lousy DRLs anyway. In general, you have to spend $30 or more per bulb to get bulbs that will be bright enough and can handle the heat. It is not unusual to spend $60 to $80 per bulb for special purposes (such as hazard strobes). Finally, the only time you will ever see the white LEDs of a switchback bulb (if the turn signals are used as DRLs) is when the headlights are on... the rest of the time they will be amber just like stock.

I am curious too. I don't see how switchbacks could cause the symptoms he described. I could understand possible turn signal problems with the EDGE 2 lights if there wasn't enough resistance in the circuit for the low level current there but otherwise switchbacks are just dual "filament" LED bulbs with white LEDs for parking/running and amber LEDs for turn signal. I'm not seeing the connection between the switchbacks and whether the power supply was switched or constant. Perhaps Nic or Dan can provide more details of what they found.