TheWizard

You might want to double check that. It sounds like an internet forum rumor rather than a fact. Ford is under no obligation to repair any item on the vehicle under warranty after it has been modified by the end user... regardless of where or who made the modifications. They can't deny warranty on unrelated items (e.g. they couldn't deny a transmission warranty claim because you modified the headlights) but they certainly would be under no obligation to repair any headlight problems. Under the "authorized shop" theory, you could install a supercharger at an "authorized shop" and then still make a warranty claim if you blew a hole in a piston - that's just not going to happen. That applies even to FRP (Ford Racing Parts) parts purchased and installed at an authorized Ford dealership. Even though FRP is a Ford Motor Company subsidiary, their parts are considered aftermarket and any modifications made with them are not covered under the factory warranty (some are covered by their own warranty which matches the time and mileage limits of the factory warranty). I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with the modifications you've made - just that you should be cautious about letting the dealer know you have them. For example, you should remove the CAI kit and replace the stock air filter before going to the dealer for warranty repair of an engine problem (e.g. rough idle, stumbling, poor mileage, etc.) because they are liable to blame the aftermarket filter without even checking thoroughly.

The whole point of Daytime Running Lights is that they be visible in the daytime - that's why they have to be so bright. Individual LEDs versus light tube is personal preference although many new cars are now coming with the "string of individual LEDs" look around the headlights. It would be difficult to see the amber turn signals next to the DRLs if the bright white LEDs didn't turn off during turn signal use. However, you could leave the turn signal function of the Edge2 lights disabled and rely only on the factory turn signals - that way the white DRLs would stay on all the time regardless of turn signal usage. All you have to do is not connect the turn signal trigger wire on the Edge2 lights.

You have two choices... you can splice into factory wires or you can find some 3157 extensions that actually fit and wire into each side separately (either extending the wires of the dual load equalizer or buying single load equalizers for each side). I am at the office right now and don't have access to the Edge. Both side turn signal wires are in one of those harnesses in your photo but it's been so long since I installed that I would have to check exactly which one. However, I don't think it's those exposed wires - I had to open up the plastic harness cover to find the wires I needed. I'm afraid I don't understand the extreme reluctance to patch into the factory wiring. It's obvious from your photos that you are not concerned about making modifications in general or about warranty issues (aftermarket HIDs certainly void any warranty headlight repairs) so how is connecting to factory wiring any different?

Dave, I don't disagree that the Posi-Taps do slightly less damage to the wire insulation. ScotchLocks only cut the insulation on the sides resulting in about 50% separation compared to perhaps 10-15% for the pin of the Posi-Tap. But the difference is not significant in terms of practical lifetime (assuming you aren't attaching at a stress or flex point in the original wire) and the advantages of parallel wire connection and much lower cost make ScotchLocks a viable choice. I have used them for many years (more than I care to mention) and have never had a single failure... even in weather exposed locations on motorcycles. The Posi-Taps are an excellent product and I would never fault anyone for using them but it's nice to have options.

It is not necessary to run the load equalizer wires to both sides. Both side turn signal wires are available in the harness on the left side behind the headlight. You can connect the wiring there and there's lots of room to mount the box.

Yes, if you have LED bulbs in the back and ordinary incandescent bulbs in the front and experience no hyperflash then you will not need a load equalizer for the rear. If you then put LED bulbs in the front and start experiencing hyperflash then you only need load balancing (resistors) in the front. I actually used a product called 3M DualLock to mount the dual load resistor box. It's similar to Velcro but uses plastic hooks on both sides instead of the cloth material used in Velcro so it provides a more secure (snap-in) mount. I want to be able to remove or put aside the box if I should end up doing other work near that area. The DualLock is held in place with its own 2-sided tape which is the same one 3M uses for attaching automotive mouldings. It will not come loose even in extreme heat or cold. Underhood temperatures in Florida while idling along at a mere 10mph for charity events would probably be very similar to what you experience. You can get 3M moulding tape from most automotive supply shops if you don't want to get DualLock.

Yes, it would work that way on all earlier versions of the Edge2 lights because applying power to the white (70% trigger) wire made the white LEDs turn on regardless of whether the main (ignition switched) power was on. I don't know what changes were made to the circuitry in the latest version so I'm not sure whether any of the LEDs will work without the main power supply. It's easy enough to test if you haven't installed them yet - hold the black (ground) wire to the battery negative terminal and touch the white (70% trigger) wire to the battery positive terminal. If the white LEDs turn on then you'll know that your courtesy function will work when installed and connected to the middle wire in the turn signal socket.

Yes, the Edge2 lamps will not work properly with factory amber DRLs unless you connect them to the rear turn signal wiring (behind the left kick panel). I was referring to when they are wired as the included directions are written.

I can't tell you whether the courtesy lights would work because I am not familiar with exactly what was changed to make the turn signals flash amber only and cause the courtesy function to not work anymore. But I can tell you that Canadian vehicles that have had the factory DRLs switched from the headlights to the amber lights will lose the use of the white LEDs of the Edge2 as DRLs. When the factory lamps are used for DRL, they use the bright filament (the turn signal filament) of the dual-filament bulbs - not the dimmer parking light filament. So when you connect the Edge2 lights to the turn signal wires, the amber LEDs will be on whenever the bright filament of the factory lights is on - which is all the time when they are set as the factory DRLs. The Edge2 circuitry is designed to prevent both the amber and white LEDs being on at the same time so in that configuration the white LEDs would never be on.

You can actually access the wiring for both side turn signals on the left side of the car but that would require tapping into the factory harness. But since you are using the 3157 extensions, you will need to extend either the purple or brown wire so that it can reach across the car to the socket on the other side. It does not matter which of those two wires you use for each side. Let's say you use purple for left and brown for right... Tap the module's purple wire into the red wire on the left side wire extension. Tap the black wire into the black wire on the extension. Add a few feet of wire to the brown wire and run it across the car to the right side and tap it into the red wire on the extension there. There is a convenient harness that already goes across the car behind the radiator support that you can zip-tie your wire to. BTW, the Posi-Taps are a good idea because they are easier to install than ScotchLocks but they still do the same kind of cutting into the wire's insulation (it's unavoidable since you need to get to the wire inside to make a connection) so don't think that they are any better for your wiring. If you really want a good connection that is strong and weather proof, you need to cut and strip the wires, solder them together and seal them with heat shrink tubing. That's usually not an option when splicing into the factory wiring but it's easy when using those extensions.

It's really not necessary to extend the white wire down to the original light pipe wires if it's inconvenient. The parking light power wire (yellow/blue) is on the same circuit so connecting the white wire behind the headlights there will give you the same function as connecting to the original light pipe wires.

I wonder if we can get Dan in here to describe the different versions and any differences in their function. I have had two different sets - the originals from the pre-order before the first shipment arrived and a replacement set that were more heavily waterproofed because we had a problem with water intrusion. Both had the white/amber switchback turn signal function so it sounds like there is a third version that has amber only flashing. I'm going to PM him and see if he can join us in here.

That's exactly what I was looking for but Dan told me it couldn't be done! Oh well, I'm certainly not going to spend that money all over again just for that feature.

That's really interesting. Do your Edge2 lights work as white DRLs (on all the time when the ignition is on)? I had asked about the possibility of having the white DRL turn off on the one side while the turn signals were on so that it would only flash amber instead of alternating amber/white but I was told it couldn't be done.

The OEM pipe lights are not DRLs - they are nowhere near bright enough to be seen in daylight. They are merely accent lights that are designed to come on with the other lights (headlights, parking lights, etc.). That's why people are so excited about the Edge2 replacements... they are very bright (easily visible in daylight), are designed to run with and without the other lights, and have a cool amber turn signal feature. That being said, if you just want to use the OEM lights you have, they are easy to connect. The yellow wire is power and the black wire is ground. Connect the yellow wire to whatever power source suits the way you want to use the lights. If you connect it to the parking light circuit, the pipe lights will be on whenever any of your other lights are on and will also work with the door lock/unlock function. If you connect to the headlight power wire, the pipe lights will only be on with the headlights. And I suppose you could connect to ignition switched power from the fuse box if you wanted them to work like DRLs (light up whenever the ignition is on) but they really aren't designed for that use. EDIT: I have seen the OEM pipe lights referred to as DRLs and as fog lights. They are neither. They are hardly as bright as side marker lamps (about 3 candlepower) and are nothing more than decoration.

That very situation was discussed at some length in the previous thread on the subject: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12451-new-photos-movie-trailer-edge-2-next-gen-daytime-running-lights/ Basically, you can change where the white wire is connected from being in the headlight circuit to being in the original pipe (or parking light) circuit. The original pipe yellow/blue wire is the most convenient during initial installation because it's right down by the lights but the parking light power is probably easier now that you've finished installation because it's accessible from under the hood. The only changes in function by moving the white wire will be that the Edge2 lights will work like OEM for locking and unlocking the vehicle and the brightness settings will be somewhat different - they'll be at full brightness only during the day when the other lights are off. When they are connected to the headlight power, they are at full brightness with lights off or with only the parking lights on.

I'm confused... you bought Daytime Running Lights but you don't want them on in the daytime? With the original Edge2 lights, you could simply plug in the factory harness and leave the black and white wires disconnected and the Edge2 lights would function just like the factory ones except much brighter (in this case you would not use the connectors or relay that came with the Edge2 lights). If that was too bright, you could connect the white wire to the yellow/blue wire in the factory connector as well and you would have the 70% brightness - still much brighter than factory. Or you could splice the white wire to the headlight power wire so you would get full brightness with only the parking lights and 70% brightness with the headlights. In either case, connecting the black wire to the turn signal power wires will give you the amber turn signals in the Edge2 lights. The design of the Edge2 lights was changed a while back to prevent moisture intrusion so it's not a simple matter to plug in the factory connector anymore. The same thing can be accomplished but you'll have to splice the wiring. Install and connect as in the installation instructions but instead of connecting the blue wire to ignition switched power in the fuse box you would connect it to either parking light power or headlight power as above. This allows you to actually use the DRL capability in the future if you decide you want it by merely moving the blue wire to the fuse panel as in the included instructions.

I have always had pony cars (Mustang, Camaro, Trans Am, etc.) and my wife has always been partial to SUVs for practicality. I was riding in her '13 Edge Limited Ecoboost the other evening and she ended up stopping at a light next to a young punk in a late model Challenger that had been driving like a jackass - presumably to impress the teenage girl in his passenger seat. What I couldn't believe was how she blew the doors off that Challenger when the light changed. Admittedly, it was only a 6-cylinder model but she obviously embarrassed the kid because he made sure he was as many lanes away as possible when we got to the next light. I couldn't stop laughing long enough to ask "who are you and what have you done with my wife?" I think the teenage girlfriend was laughing as well. Man, that little turbo has some serious torque and get-up-and-go!

More than that, plugs should only be used for temporary repairs even when in the tread area. Plugs will eventually fall apart due to the flexing of the tire so they are intended only as a temporary fix until the tire can be properly repaired (vulcanized patch) or replaced.

Yes, those are the ones (although I'm getting the H11 version). I'm not sure how well they'll work because I've seen conflicting reviews about using them in halogen projector housings. I've replaced the stock halogen reflector headlights with projectors and the fog lights are projector as well so I guess I'll be able tell for myself. I also ordered the small H11 harness extensions off eBay so that I can connect the LED headlight controller box without modifying the factory headlight wiring. That way I can remove them for return if they don't play well with projector housings.

Sorry, I don't know what a "decoder" does either - at least not in this application. I can see a decoder being a CAN-BUS device for vehicles that use that type of circuit but the Edge doesn't so I don't know how a "decoder" would differ from a simple resistor. You're right about the term "equalizer"... it's just a fancy name for a resistor module. The function of the resistor in this case is to "equalize" the load of the LED bulb so that it matches that of an incandescent bulb's filament so that the flasher system doesn't see the low resistance of the LED bulb as a problem. Those bulb extensions look like an excellent solution to not modifying the factory harness - just wire your resistor into the extension and it can be plugged in leaving the option to simply unplug if you ever need to go back to stock. I don't think there is enough room behind the tail lights to fit a resistor even with the extensions and I would be concerned about the heat from the resistor in such a small enclosed space anyway. But they may not be necessary... it's quite possible that adding resistors to the front will be enough. Especially since most have only noticed the hyper-flash when the headlights are on (the front bulb is dual filament but the back isn't so it should not be affected by headlights). I like the idea of the bulb extension so much that I think I'll buy a couple to redo the resistors connections on the front. I'm also going to see if they have H9/H11 versions because I'm about to replace my Mustang headlight and fog light bulbs with special high power LED bulbs from V-LEDs (2000 lumens and none of the start-up issues of HIDs).

Load resistors do produce some heat that can be significant if you use just the resistors (like buying them from Radio Shack). In fact, they can produce enough heat in close quarters to melt wiring insulation. Basically, that's how resistors work - they convert electrical energy into heat. And that's why I didn't want to use ordinary resistors behind the Edge taillights in the limited space there (also why I didn't do that inside the plastic fairing of a Gold Wing). The dual load equalizers I used (and some of the better single load equalizers) are built into a heat sink aluminum case with fins on the sides to dissipate the heat without the mounting surface getting hot so the 2-sided tape doesn't become a sticky mess.

I have converted a half dozen cars and at least as many motorcycles from standard incandescent bulbs to LED replacements. In every case I used load equalizers because they are an easy-to-install and reliable solution to the hyper-flash issue. For the Edge, I used dual load equalizers from Signal Dynamics because they simplify the wiring connections and are sealed within a waterproof heat sink housing. You need one for each pair of lights (i.e. one for front and another for rear). I could have installed both behind the left kick panel near the BCM but I only mounted the rear one there and put the front one below the left headlight. That was just for ease of installation - the wires are more accessible under the hood than in the harness behind the kick panel - but there is plenty of room for both behind the kick panel if you want a more stealth installation. The dual load equalizer has three wires - purple, brown and black. The purple and brown wires each tap into one side turn signal circuit and the black goes to any good chassis ground. The box itself gets mounted to any flat surface using the included 2-sided tape. The wires you tap into near the BCM are: blue/green for left front, yellow/violet for right front, grey/orange for left rear, and green/orange for right rear. You will have to test the wires with a multimeter or test light because there are multiple wires of the same colors in that harness (that's why the fronts were easier near the lamps themselves but there is no space near the tail lights). The black wire gets a crimp-on ring terminal and is attached to the existing ground stud behind the kick panel. There is no reason to fear using the ScotchLock type connector (the wire tap that you squeeze with pliers) - I have had them on my wife's bike since 1996 without ever having a problem. The Posi-Lock taps are nice but they are expensive and they still slice through the wire's insulation so they aren't necessarily any safer than ScotchLocks. If you want absolute reliability in a connection then solder and heat shrink tubing is the best way to go but not necessary for this type of connection. It sounds like the front lamps are most often the source of the problem and that the higher power LED bulbs in the rear don't cause hyper-flashing. If that is true, then perhaps the best solution would be to install a dual load equalizer behind the kick panel for just the front lamps. That keeps all your connections inside and protected from the weather as well as being hidden from view. It is not possible to simply change a flasher on any Ford model that has the electronic turn signal switch because there is no "flasher" in the traditional sense... the turn signals are controlled by the BCM. Even many older Ford models from the 90s and 00s did not have traditional 2-prong or 3-prong flashers but flasher modules that were vehicle specific. BTW, "turn signal flashers" are called just that - not "flasher relays" even though their internal function is much like a standard relay. Of course you could always try using synthetic blinker fluid in place of the stock stuff: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=22&zenid=Uzr9XefyAGZ3dmKe,84JA0

Sorry, I can't help with a bulb-only solution. I replaced all our turn signal bulbs front and rear with LED bulbs using load resistors and have never had a problem even when I run them with a strobe flasher for 8-9 hours at a time.

1. There is nothing you can do (except maybe racing or commercial use such as a taxi) that will void your warranty. Vehicle modifications only affect warranty claims on the specific modified part. The worst that can happen is that the dealer can rightfully refuse to cover a specific repair under warranty if the problem was directly caused by the modification you made. But if that were the case, merely installing LED bulbs in place of the original incandescent ones would have the same impact, so load resistors make no difference to warranty. 2. Buy the load resistors that are encased in a heat sink housing rather than just plain Radio Shack resistors. They get a little warm but never hot enough to even make them uncomfortable to touch. Remember, they only come into play when the turn signals are active and that's only a 50% duty cycle. 3. The load resistors with heat sink housing have 2-sided tape so that you can mount them to any flat space under the hood or even behind the left kick panel completely out of the way. You can even get dual load resistors that will handle both side turn signals with one device for a clean minimal installation. Load resistors are by far the best and most economical way to go since you already have your bulbs. If you hadn't bought the bulbs yet then I would suggest buying the CAN-BUS type which basically just have the load resistor already in their circuitry.