TheWizard

It just so happens that I have a set of 2011 Mustang Pony Edition 18x8 wheels for sale. They're used but don't have a scratch on them. They're clear-coated polished aluminum and I just replaced them with chrome this weekend. You would probably want to use different center caps since the Mustang caps wouldn't be appropriate but the ones you have should work. Here's what they look like (not my car but the same wheels)... I'll sell the four of them for $400 plus actual shipping (it cost me $120 to have the chrome ones shipped to Florida from Michigan).

Holy smokes! I think you should sell it or trade it in before someone notices it's defective - the courtesy lights can't be independently turned off like "most" other cars. Strange... of the seven cars I've owned (or still own) over the last ten years, only one - a BMW - had a switch for the courtesy lights so I guess the BMW is the 1 in 7 that represents "most" cars. BTW, for tailgating purposes, the interior lights will go off automatically with a door left open after about 10-15 minutes as part of the battery saver circuitry.

Well yes, the primary symptom that the load resistor resolves is the hyper-flashing of the turn signals. But some of the issues have been due to a variable current as you describe that causes symptoms you wouldn't see with an incandescent bulb because the LED bulb doesn't have as much resistance. Adding the external load resistor brings the circuit resistance back up to what it would be with a standard bulb, usually eliminating the odd symptoms.

Did you install an external resistor? That should get rid of the amber side staying on. There have been several reports of weird turn signal problems in the Edge but a load resistor usually resolves the issue.

These days of globalization make it almost impossible to get an "American made" (including Canada) vehicle. My Mustang has a manual transmission built in China. My Edge has an Ecoboost engine built in Spain. A few years ago, the quintessential American vehicle - the Harley Davidson Electra Glide - had fewer domestic parts than the Honda Gold Wing (when it was being built in Marysville Ohio) I have been a Consumer's Reports subscriber for many years but I always ignore their vehicle reviews. I don't believe they have staff members who really know anything about automobiles or the automobile industry. Perhaps their opinions are meaningful to soccer moms who have a similar level of expertise. They certainly let you know how many cup holders are available. They once concluded that Corvettes were inherently more dangerous cars than Volvos based on reported accidents. They didn't even consider that the type of person who buys a Corvette might not be as safety conscious as those who buy Volvos and therefore might tend to have more accidents due to a more "aggressive" driving style.

I question your diagnosis... 9 volts is more than enough to light a standard 12V incandescent bulb (although dimly). And the dim filament corresponds to white not amber. A switchback bulb is designed to have white parking/running lights (dim filament) while retaining amber turn signals (bright filament). The parking light circuit should not be affected by turn signal use - certainly not by increasing voltage. How did you perform your testing? Did you have the headlights or parking lights on at the time?

The only options for DRL in the Ford programming are the headlights and the turn signals (and "off" for US vehicles). The factory light bars in the bumper are nowhere near bright enough to meet the requirements of Canadian law and are considered just accent lights. The Edge 2 lights from daytimebrightlites.com are certainly bright enough but since they are aftermarket, Ford made no provision for programming them as the default DRLs.

The Edge is not a CAN bus vehicle so the CAN bus adapters are not required and may actually cause problems. CAN bus is a technology used to monitor vehicle functions such as lighting and display a warning light or message when a bulb is burned out. It is found mostly on European imports. HID kits will not work properly with DRLs running on the headlights. The HID ballast can't handle the Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) signal and reduced voltage used on the headlight circuit for DRL function. If you get anything at all it will usually flicker and the life of the ballast will be significantly reduced. That's why Ford switches the DRLs to the turn signal bulbs on Edge's equipped with factory HIDs. If you have a sympathetic service manager at your dealership, they can reprogram the DRLs to run the turn signal bulbs instead of the headlights. Some dealers are not modification friendly and won't change things from their factory configuration. If you get one of those - try another dealer. Another option may be one of the relay kits that connect your ballasts to the battery and use the headlight circuit only to trip the relay rather than directly powering the HID ballast. Check with Retrofitsource to see if their relay kit will work in that configuration.

Yes, you're exactly right... if you are in a position to be able to afford a large repair bill if it comes along then not buying the extended warranty is definitely the smarter way to go. But if a $4,000 repair would force you to choose between paying the mortgage or fixing your vehicle then the upfront cost of the warranty (which can be included in the financing of the vehicle) will remove that worry. Basically it's insurance - you pay the smaller premium in case something really big happens but most people will never get their money's worth except for that "peace of mind".

I too would only buy the Ford ESP plan even at higher cost. I have worked in several dealerships and seen the bad experiences owners have had with almost all of the aftermarket service plans. They make it very attractive up front but they make it very difficult to get repairs covered once they have your money. If you are very disciplined financially, buying an extended warranty is not a good decision. It's a huge profit maker for the seller because statistically you are very unlikely to get your money's worth in repairs - especially when you consider the deductibles. Most financial analysts will tell you to save your money and take the chance that you might have to pay for some repairs out of pocket down the road. But there are good reasons to buy one as well. If you plan to keep the vehicle through the entire duration of the contract and you're willing to pay for the peace of mind then it can be worthwhile especially if your vehicle has options or components that are prone to failure and very expensive to repair. I bought the top-of-the-line Ford ESP plan because I have concerns about the longevity of some of the components of both my Edge and my Mustang (mostly all the electronics and the Ecoboost engine).

He misspoke. You always connect a load resistor between the turn signal power and ground. When you look at the three wires coming out of the back of the turn signal sockets they are aligned in a flat row. One of the outside edge wires is the turn signal power (positive) - blue/green on the left side and yellow/purple on the right side. The other outside wire is ground (negative) - black/green on the left side and black/grey on the right side. The middle wire in each socket is power for the parking/running lights and is not used for load resistors. I really don't understand why one would want to eliminate the factory turn signals but if you want to do that yet still retain the factory parking lights you can leave the bulb in, cut the turn signal wire and connect the end coming from the vehicle harness to the load resistor as detailed above. That keeps the bright filament (turn signal and DRL) from turning on but retains the dim parking/running light filament for when the lights are on. The load resistor merely takes the place of the disconnected bulb filament so that the turn signals don't hyperflash. You could even replace the bulb with white instead of amber since it would no longer flash with the turn signals.

Almost all modern aftermarket head units have the wired remote capability that is necessary to retain steering wheel control. Then you need an adapter module that translates the steering wheel switch signals for the aftermarket head unit. Probably the best adapter module is the Axxess ASWC-1 which is self programming and will work with all major aftermarket brands including Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer and Sony as well several others. It costs about $70 online.

Incandescent dual filament bulbs such as the 3157 have two separate filaments that are on different circuits although they share a common ground. The dim filament is used for the parking/running lights controlled by the headlight switch. The bright filament is used for the turn signals (and in some cars the DRLs). But both are the same color because the color is determined by the glass globe of the bulb rather than by the individual filaments. Switchback LEDs take advantage of the unique ability to combine different color light sources in a single housing. They have white LEDs connected to the parking/running light circuit and amber LEDs connected to the turn signal circuit. Since they distinguish the two circuits by color, it is not necessary to have one brighter than the other so most switchback LEDs have the same output level for both white and amber. The two types of switchback bulbs are known as Type 1/Type 2 or AW/AO based on how they function when the turn signals are in use. If the parking/running lights (white LEDs) are off, both types operate identically. When the parking/running lights are on, Type 1 or AW switchbacks will alternate amber and white when the turn signals are flashing. Type 2 or AO will flash amber only until the turn signals are finished and then switch back to solid white. (AW = amber white and AO = amber off). I have not seen the terms A Type and B Type but I would assume they mean the same thing. Type 2 (AO) function the way factory LED setups are designed while Type 1 (AW) seems to have originated with import car "tuners" (also known as "ricers"). There are a few unique switchback bulbs that have special circuitry designed for use in factory DRL applications. They are usually Type 2 (AO) but have additional circuitry to switch to white when the turn signal circuit shows constant (not flashing) power. This gives white DRLs while still retaining amber turn signals. They only work in vehicles that use the front turn signals for DRLs as well.

Actually, buying quality bulbs adds better construction including reverse polarity protection, over current protection and better heat dissipation but it's still a crap-shoot whether they will cause hyperflash or not. Some do and some don't. It has been said that the higher power LED bulbs eliminate hyperflash but I have seen 50W CREE LED bulbs still hyperflash without resistors. As far as a place to buy quality bulbs, there are several but you may be shocked at the prices. V-LEDs.com sells high quality bulbs but unfortunately doesn't back them up with a corresponding warranty. Diode Dynamics has great bulbs with three year warranties but they cost as much as $90 a pair. CAN Bus bulbs have the resistor built-in so that they appear as a normal incandescent bulb to cars that have the CAN Bus system monitoring bulb outages. The built-in resistor does the same thing as an external resistor except that it is connected to both sides of the circuit (parking light and turn signal) which is not necessary on a non-CAN Bus vehicle. The Edge only needs the added resistance to eliminate hyperflash on the turn signal circuit. Having the resistance internal to the bulb and connected to both circuits causes additional heat in the lamp housing where it can't dissipate as easily. This causes shortened bulb life - heat is the worst enemy of electronics. So the short answer is that yes you can use CAN Bus LED bulbs in non-CAN Bus vehicles and they will work fine (including eliminating hyperflash) but they will not last as long. In some cases, I've seen them die in as little as about nine months to a year. They get expensive to keep replacing at that rate. One of the advantages of LED bulbs is their extremely long life compared to incandescent bulbs but CAN Bus bulbs often eliminate that advantage.

You won't know if you need resistors until you can get the turn signals to flash. If they flash too fast, you need resistors, otherwise you don't. It seems to be a matter of luck whether you will have the hyper-flash issue requiring resistors but you are more likely to need them when using the cheap bulbs sold on eBay. That said, the problem may be as simple as a polarity issue. Try reversing the bulbs in their sockets. Also, check that the wire contacts on the bulb base are aligned properly and protrude enough to make good contact in the socket. I have found that Ford sockets tend to be slightly loose and that giving the bulb's wire contacts a slight outward bend will let them make better contact in the socket.

Oil comes in three types in ascending order of efficiency... dino oil, synthetic blend, and true synthetic. Depending on manufacturer's recommendations, there is no reason you can't switch back and forth between any of the three. Synthetic blends and true synthetics are better at cleaning but any oil of a given viscosity will lubricate the same as any other. Dino oils break down much quicker than the synthetics due to molecular sheer so the change interval is lower. It is not a good idea to use a dino oil if the manufacturer recommends blend or full synthetic because the manufacturer is taking the extra cleaning capability and longer change intervals into consideration and the dash oil monitor is calibrated to match. But you could use dino oil in an emergency (what would constitute an oil change emergency?) without any harm to your engine. The one big exception is older, high-mileage engines that have been running dino oil exclusively. Switching to one of the synthetics can cause leaks at some seals. This is not because the synthetic oil is capable of getting through spaces that dino oil can't (common misconception) but rather because the extra cleaning action removes some dino oil gunk that had been effectively plugging a leaky seal. The synthetic oil is merely revealing the existence of a marginal seal. You don't have to worry about that - 85,000 miles is not considered high mileage with today's engines. In the 60s and 70s, 85K would be almost ready for the scrap yard... odometers didn't have six digits because so few cars ever reached 100,000 miles.

Generally speaking, if you take a vehicle in for a repair during the warranty period and the problem is not resolved, it is still a warrantied problem. It's no different than if you took it in for something like a power window not working... if you first took it in during the warranty period but it wasn't fixed, the fact that the warranty expired in the meantime does not mean they aren't obligated to finish the repair under the original warranty. The question comes in how the original work orders were worded. If the work order says something like "wheels leaking" then they haven't fixed the original problem and it's still a warranty issue. On the other hand, if you told them "perform TSB #xxxx" then you're probably out of luck because they did that and the fact that it didn't solve the underlying problem is not their concern. If the dealer is unwilling to assist then you should escalate to Ford customer service. Make sure you have copies of all work orders showing what was done.

Your car does not have DRLs unless you bought it in Canada or you modified the vehicle. DRLs are Daytime Running Lights - they are lights that are on the front only during daylight hours when all other lights are off. Switchbacks merely give you two different colors of light for the parking/running lights and the turn signals. The white LEDs will be lit when the parking lights or headlights are on and the amber LEDs will be lit when the turn signals are in use. Otherwise neither is lit. Basically, the white LEDs replace the dim filament and the amber LEDs replace the bright filament of dual-filament bulbs such as the 3157. Type 1 switchbacks alternate white and amber when the turn signals are used with the parking or headlights on otherwise they flash amber only. Type 2 flashes amber only. If the parking lights or headlights are on when the Type 2 switchback finishes flashing turn signals, it will put the white LEDs back on otherwise it will just remain dark. A load resistor is used to increase the total resistance of the circuit to match that of regular incandescent bulbs. The low resistance of LEDs makes most vehicles think there is a bulb burned out causing the hyper-flashing to alert the driver to the problem. A 50-watt, 6-ohm resistor is the equivalent load to most common incandescent turn signal bulbs like the 1157 or 3157. You always install the load resistor in the turn signal circuit - not the parking light circuit (which does not flash). One side of the resistor connects to the turn signal power and the other to ground (either the bulb's ground wire or a chassis ground, whichever is more convenient). On the left side the T/S power wire is blue/green and the ground is black/green. On the right side the T/S power wire is yellow/purple and the ground is black/grey.

The Ford ordering guide lists "22" Polished Aluminum wheels with tuxedo black spoke contrast stitching accents (includes locking lug nuts shipped to the dealer via VIN fulfillment)" so I guess they get shipped separately to the dealer on request by submitting the VIN to Ford. The dealer should do this automatically without waiting for a buyer request.

Only on the Sport 22" wheels. Locks aren't even offered as a factory option on other models but you can get them from the parts department.

That additional information certainly takes away most of the advantages of repairing. You are probably right to figure that a lower mileage used engine is likely to be better in the long run than repairing a relatively high mileage engine that you're not really familiar with anyway. Plus there is always the possibility that the problem is something more extensive than just a head gasket and you wouldn't know until it was apart. I still recommend replacing it with the same 3.5 V6 that it came with because the early 3.7 V6 from the Lincoln MKS only produced 10 additional horsepower - not enough to be worth the potential tuning issues in my opinion.

Although the 3.7 V6 would probably physically fit, I'm not sure you could swap because of the PCM programming. The original 3.5 has variable valve timing only on the intake side whereas the 3.7 has twin independent variable cam timing. As a result, the 3.7 produces 40 more horsepower and 30 foot-pounds additional torque. I would expect that the PCM tuning would have to be significantly different (fuel mapping, etc.) to account for those differences. The bigger question is why replace an engine rather than a couple of head gaskets? Sure a used engine may not be expensive but the labor to install it will be and you don't know what problems you may inherit with a used engine - the previous owner may have never changed the oil. Head gaskets aren't expensive but again the labor costs could be. The difference is that you know the history of your own engine. And pulling heads on a Cyclone V6 is actually not that difficult (I've seen it done in a driveway) so you could end up saving many hundreds of dollars.

I don't think there is any recourse over fuel mileage unless it applies to a large number of drivers of a vehicle model. Hyundai ended up settling a class action law suit over the stated mileage of their Santa Fe by giving gas cards to owners of that model. But for individuals there is the famous expression "your mileage may vary". I can easily exceed the 30 mpg highway mileage rating in my '13 Ecoboost on secondary highways where the speed limit is only 55 or 60 (not so much on an interstate highway at higher speeds). And my Mustang 3.7 V6 gets 29 mpg in similar conditions despite the fact that it is a heavier convertible and I've upgraded the rear end to higher ratio (numerically) gears. So I would think an Edge with the same V6 would have no problem reaching its rated 27 mpg when driven at lower speeds like that. If your mileage is a few mpg lower than rated, it's probably because of different driving conditions and driving style. If it's significantly lower then perhaps it would be best to have the dealer take a look to see if there is a problem.

If you think that a GPS problem is going to get you a lemon law buy-back, you really need to talk to a lawyer first. Lemon laws vary by state but all have basically the same conditions... the defect(s) must significantly affect the operation of the vehicle and the vehicle must have been in the shop for either a certain number of days or a certain number of times without the issue being resolved and it has to be within a specified time period (usually the first year of ownership). I don't think you'll find a lawyer (an honest one if there is such a thing ) who would advise you that your problem meets those requirements or even that a navigation failure "significantly affects the operation of the vehicle" considering that the vast majority of new vehicles don't have navigation at all and can be operated safely without it. I'm afraid you're just going to have to wait for a fix from Ford although it couldn't hurt to try the battery disconnect procedure mentioned earlier.

It must be only the Fusion Ecoboost that has 93 octane recommendation because I just checked my owner's manual and it says 87 octane is recommended. It says premium fuel will provide better performance and is recommended for severe duty such as towing (not that the Ecoboost is rated to tow much). We have always used 87 octane and not only can we get 30+ mpg when desired but my wife also beat a V6 Challenger light-to-light without hardly trying (one of the funniest things I've ever seen her do). The power (torque actually) is there even with regular gas.