TheWizard

I think we're on the same page. I'm not saying that the thermostat rating will be the absolute temperature at which the engine will run. But I am saying that except for unusual circumstances (extended idling, high ambient temperature, etc.) an engine running a thermostat rated 30 degrees lower than stock will tend to run somewhere around 30 degrees cooler overall than the same engine with a stock thermostat regardless of what that absolute temperature is. That would be true until it reaches the point where the fans are needed for extra cooling but even then it would take longer to reach that point because it adds radiator circulation sooner. So the benefit of a lower rated thermostat extends well beyond just initial warmup.

No, the thermostat will affect overall temperature in almost all conditions. It's not a one-way device that opens and stays open - it opens and closes to maintain coolant temperature close to its rated value. So above 40 mph, a 192 degree thermostat will open and close to maintain coolant temperature around 192 degrees. Similarly, a 160 degree thermostat will open and close to maintain coolant temperature around 160 degrees. Therefore, the lower rated thermostat will keep the engine running approximately 30 degrees cooler at any vehicle speed as long as the rest of the cooling system (radiator, water pump, etc.) is up to the task and conditions aren't extraordinary,

Yes, you are correct. Assuming that the radiator is up to the task of cooling, the thermostat will control the basic temperature at which the engine will run. There will be variation as the thermostat opens and closes based on the coolant temperature (which will vary due to driving conditions - ambient temperature, air flow due to vehicle speed, fan usage, etc.) but the average temperature will be fairly close to the thermostat rating. So installing a lower temperature thermostat will lower the overall average coolant temperature to something near the thermostat rating in all but extreme circumstances where the cooling system can't keep up with the conditions (extreme heat, extended idling, etc.)

I had the Drive Bright kit on my '13 and they were definitely in the class of DRL LED strips you see on cars today. They were easily visible in daylight and too bright at night without the dimmer circuit.

Oddly enough, the roof function is described in the owner's manual:

A lower temperature thermostat will actually keep the engine running somewhat cooler than the stock one. The thermostat opens and closes based on the coolant temperature. When closed, coolant circulates only within the engine for faster warmup. When the coolant reaches the thermostat temperature, it opens and diverts coolant through the radiator to remove heat. So, with a 160 degree thermostat, it will open and start sending coolant to the radiator at around 160 degrees. The coolant will then maintain a temperature somewhere close to 160-170 degrees assuming there are no cooling system problems or external factors such as extended idling or extreme ambient heat. With the factory thermostat, it won't start diverting coolant until it reaches 190 degrees and it would theoretically close again if the temperature dropped much below that point (not that the temperature of a running engine would actually do that) so it will maintain a temperature somewhere around 190-200 degrees. That means the lower thermostat does actually keep the overall coolant temperature lower than a factory one.

Best post I've seen all day!

There is no law that requires a manufacturer to provide replacement parts beyond the warranty period (actually, even that isn't mandated by law although manufacturers would much rather provide parts than replace vehicles for warranty claims). Of course, all will provide parts for some time after the warranty but which parts and how many to keep is merely a business decision. They make a decent markup on replacement parts and they want to have repeat customers so they will generally stock common parts and have a source to get less common parts that still sell (although lead time might be high). Some items (particularly accessories) will be discontinued almost immediately after the vehicle model is no longer being sold. Other parts may become available only as part of larger assemblies (e.g. headlight lenses that were originally available separately may become available only as part of a headlight assembly). Basically, if the manufacturer can stock it and sell it for a profit, they'll continue to do so. Otherwise, you might be out of luck. As omar said, your passenger airbag is not disabled just because the indicator light isn't working so this isn't a safety issue. Have you considered pulling the fuse for the sound system if the blaring volume is a problem? Similarly, I'm sure the defroster heat could be disabled as well. Not an ideal solution perhaps but probably better than roasting in your vehicle. Luckily the temperature is fairly mild this time of year in T.O.

Those tires only last 6,000 miles in "normal" driving. At top speed (254 mph), the tires last only about 15 minutes (about 64 miles) but you'd have to stop to refuel in between because the 26 gallon tank empties in about 12 minutes at that speed (about 1.9 mpg).

It will prevent you from locking the vehicle.

Those add-a-fuse or add-a-circuit taps are very handy and easy to use. When you pull the original fuse, it goes in the bottom slot of the tap to complete the original circuit when the tap is plugged back into the fuse box. The fuse for your added circuit (the one that connects to the red wire) goes in the top slot. The added fuse should never be higher capacity than the original fuse (i.e. if the factory fuse is 10A then don't put anything more than a 10A fuse in the top slot). In the case of these lights, the added fuse should be smaller... 3A or 5A is plenty since the circuit is just a trigger signal and doesn't carry any significant current.

They've been listed in your other thread on the same subject.

The turn signal wires are: Left side: turn signal power = blue/green, ground = black/green, parking light power = yellow/blue. Right side: turn signal power = yellow/purple, ground = black/gray, parking light power = yellow/blue. The white wire connects to the headlight or parking light circuit to dim the DRLs at night while the other lights are on. They will operate at full brightness as DRLs when the other lights are off (during the day). So you should connect the white wires as described to not have overwhelming bright lights on the bumper at night when they're not needed.

Maybe not. Here is the link that describes it: http://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/dashboard-instrument-cluster/intelligent-oil-life-monitor.html?fmccmp=myfordmag-site-MFPR0515OIL. When I run it for 2011 or 2012 Edge it says "may not apply to your vehicle" but when run for 2013 or newer it doesn't show that message.

Not a theory... Ford's own description of the function. However, I just went to the Ford site to copy/paste the description and found that it doesn't apply to your 2011. It does apply to my 2013 so the IOLM must have been added between those model years. That means we're both right - yours is just mileage and mine is computed. Who'd have thunk it?

Yup, that would be the thread linked earlier that started the banter about wheels sticking out too far and perhaps needing add-on fender flares. (emoji added to clarify things )

The description I posted was not an opinion - it was put together from Ford's own description of the workings of their IOLM along with some other sources. I have found that the mileage between oil changes in my Mustang changes depending on driving conditions. When I take it on long highway trips the change interval is longer than when it is used for mostly daily commuting. I have no idea whether it actually changed in the Edge because I didn't have it long enough to really notice. But I suggest that if yours seems to go strictly by mileage then it isn't working as intended and perhaps should be checked by a dealer.

The Ford Intelligent Oil Life Monitor (IOLM) is much more than just a mileage countdown. It doesn't actually test the oil with sensors but it does calculate oil life based on a variety of factors including time (not engine hours but elapsed time since last change), temperature, engine load, idling time, and even terrain. The software algorithm tracks those factors and calculates an oil change interval based on expected oil life under the those conditions. Light duty (freeway driving or city driving in flat or small hill areas, moderate temperatures, no extended idling and no heavy loading) results in oil life between 7,500 and 10,000 miles. Moderate duty (mountainous or off-road driving, extended hot or cold conditions, moderate to heavy loads and some extended idling) results in oil life between 5,000 and 7,500 miles. Extreme conditions (frequent mountainous or off-road driving, frequent or extreme extended hot or cold conditions, heavy to maximum loads, and extended idling) results in oil life between 3,000 and 5,000 miles. That makes it a reasonably reliable indicator of actual oil life - certainly more so than using either engine hours or mileage alone. However, I too have never been able to get past the "more often is better" mindset I grew up with, so I set my monitor to 80% after each oil change to ensure I get notified a little early.

I agree that the wheels can make a big difference but 20 seconds to 60 mph is excessive. We're talking about less than 5% loss of mechanical advantage due to the change in wheel size yet the 0-60 time is more than double the rated time of somewhere in the 7 second range.

Forscan is an app for use in conjunction with an OBD II reader to read and/or change some of the system programming. Changing the tire/wheel size in the programming will correct your speedometer and probably help with the transmission gear searching but it won't help with the overall slowness. Only a physical change (such as gears) will do that. 20 seconds to 60 mph? I've seen school buses faster than that! (literally... at a "run what you brung" drag strip event).

The additional size changes the apparent overall gear ratio. In this case, the new wheels are a little over 4.5% larger so that's like changing the stock 3.16 rear end ratio down to 3.02. That's a noticeable change. A Sport model with the larger wheels would have come with a 3.39 gear ratio from the factory.

To refute the claim that nobody else has one... I have one. Or rather, I had one on my Mustang but removed it. It doesn't impact turbo lag despite the manufacturer's claims. What it does is change throttle response by eliminating a built-in lag in throttle response of the drive by wire system (this was deliberately programmed into the system and is not considered a fault). It also ramps up the rate-of-change signal more quickly. That's why even stomping harder on the accelerator still won't produce the same response without the device. The device will give the impression that it changes turbo lag when it's actually changing throttle position sensor lag. Turbo lag is a function of the time it takes to physically wind up the turbine impellers and it simply cannot be changed electrically. As akirby said, turbo lag on Ecoboost engines is small because of the design of the turbos so making the throttle respond quicker gives the impression of reducing turbo lag. As long as you understand what it's doing, it does make a noticeable difference in throttle response so it can be an alternative to tuning if throttle response is the only improvement you're looking for. I removed mine because the throttle response was too quick for use with a stick because it made it very difficult to match engine revs when downshifting. A slight blip of the throttle produced what felt like a disproportionate response. So I went to a tune instead and have been much happier with the overall results. That means I have a PedalMax sitting in my tool box that I would be happy to sell to anyone who's interested. It's supposed to work with all 2011 through 2017 Ford vehicles.

You can get the OEM wiring schematics from Helm for $82 or the entire service manual including electrical for $177. The $1,450 manual is for all 2015 models rather than just the Edge - that's why it's so expensive. Another option is factory-manuals.com. You provide your VIN and they put together a custom PDF with all available manuals for your vehicle - owners, sync, navigation, electrical service, workshop, etc. - for about $70. I bought one and it's very complete but doesn't have a table of contents or index (they're there but not as links so they are of limited effectiveness) so you have to do some searching to find specific sections. Okay for casual use but the Helm manuals are much better for regular use.

Not quite... Ford (or any manufacturer) can refuse to pay a specific claim under warranty if they believe the failure was caused by an aftermarket part or modification. They can't "void" the warranty. For example, if installing lighted door sills caused an electrical problem then a warranty claim related to that electrical problem could be denied. But they would still have to fix something like a water pump since it obviously wasn't caused by the door sills. There are a couple of exceptions - racing can be used to void the entire warranty and installing a tune can be used to void an engine warranty. In practical terms, Ford or the dealer could claim a modification caused a failure even if it didn't, leaving the owner to have to take them to court to establish that the modification was not the cause. That's not so easy if the modification and failure point are related in any way because a judge or JP is probably not mechanically inclined and will likely accept the diagnosis of the manufacturer since "they know their product better than anyone else". However, that seldom happens except with some dealers who seem to think they have complete control over what people can do with their vehicles. Bottom line, if you're worried about warranty, talk to your dealer first to see if they are likely to be reasonable about any problems that arise. As mentioned, they aren't going to cover problems that are clearly caused by modifications but you want to them not to use that as an excuse to deny coverage for other things. I've dealt with dealers on both sides and always avoid the ones who just seem to be looking for any excuse not to cover warranty repairs.

No, that would be June 5th using American date formatting (even though build is in Canada). However, that would make delivery May 25th a kind of Back to the Future thing.