TheWizard

How is this any different from buying one copy of a movie or music album and making copies for others (i.e. illegal)?

Are you going by the dash gauge or some other measure? Dash temperature gauges in most domestic vehicles have been nothing more than fancy "idiot lights" for some time now. Manufacturers and dealers got tired of inexperienced owners complaining about the fluctuations of the real gauges so they made them computer controlled to rise to mid-range and stay there unless there was a real problem. The same applies to oil pressure gauges and even voltmeters in some vehicles. Normal temperature is generally close to the rated temperature of the engine thermostat, so 186 degrees would be about normal. The actual temperature will vary depending on ambient temperature and driving conditions. It will often go quite a bit higher (over 200 degrees) in normal operation. If you've ever heard your engine cooling fans kick on then your system has gone above the normal 186 degrees but that is completely normal as long as it cools down again so the dash gauge wouldn't show it.

I have the same problem with my Mustang. I've had my lifetime subscription for many years, transferring to various portable receivers until I got the car with satellite radio built-in. The reason you lose the traffic (and TravelLink) is because their accounting system is keyed on the ESN of the receiver. They don't have any way to assign your lifetime subscription to the receiver and also assign a separate account for you to pay for traffic on the same receiver - it won't let them create the separate account with the same ESN. It seems like there would be a simple accounting change that could fix this but I have been after them for seven years now without any success. The other thing to keep in mind is that transferring your lifetime subscription to the built-in receiver in the vehicle ends your ability to ever transfer again. You can only transfer if you have to replace the receiver in the same vehicle because of theft, accidental damage, or it becomes defective. You can no longer transfer to a portable receiver or different vehicle. So you should consider how long you plan to keep the vehicle before making that decision. I have had it on my car for seven years now and plan to keep the car for years to come so it was a good choice for me. I got the lifetime subscription in 2006 when it was on sale for $299 (average $27 per year up to now) so I'm already way ahead of what a regular subscription would have cost. YMMV.

Your speedometer would read more than 10% high (at a true 60mph your speedometer would show 66+ mph). Worse yet, your odometer would be out by the same amount so you would be adding more miles on the odometer than you actually travel. But the biggest issue may be that you wouldn't be able to mount the wheels without interference with the brakes. The '13 Edge never came with a 17" wheel option so it's quite possible (even likely) that the wheels won't fit over the calipers.

I doubt chefduane would recommend either 5W20 or 0W20 for cooking... they tend to overwhelm delicate flavors, especially fish. Wind chill has no bearing on the limits of oil temperature ranges. It is a calculation to approximate how cold it feels to a person but although a wind will cause an engine to cool faster, it will never cool below the ambient temperature. In other words, if the outside temperature is -20, a wind will cause metal to cool to -20 faster than it would without the wind but it won't go any lower than that even if the wind chill ("feels like") temperature is -35. Bear in mind that as interesting as this discussion may be on an intellectual level, chefduane and others are right - once you've eliminated the bad choices, just about any of the oil and filter choices will serve you well. It's more about regular maintenance than it is about any particular brand of oil or filter. Running Amsoil or any other expensive oil is not going to make your engine last any longer unless you intend to significantly extend your oil change intervals. Changed regularly, any one of the quality synthetics or synthetic blends will keep your engine running for a long time. The reason I mention Amsoil specifically is because I have a friend who is an Amsoil distributor who thought it was good enough to run 20,000 miles between changes (as they advertise) and turned his Acura into a smoking pile of junk.

Unless the OP lives in interior New Brunswick, the winter low temperature in the Canadian Maritime provinces never gets anywhere close to -40 so the difference between 0w20 and 5W20 is a moot point. Besides, those are overnight lows and he says he has his Edge in a garage overnight anyway. In all the years I've spent working in the automotive business, I can't recall ever seeing an engine failure related to oil except in cases of extreme lack of maintenance (and the occasional quick lube place that forgot to put in new oil after draining the old - it happens way more often than it should). And that's even going way back to the days of relatively poor engine tolerances and nothing but dino oil available. There's no question that full synthetic is better oil and perhaps necessary for extended change intervals but synthetic blends are very good and even dino oil will do a good job as long as it's changed regularly.

Well, considering that Ford has been selling an average of over 500,000 Ecoboost equipped vehicles per year in recent years (topping 1 million last year) having 56 turbos on order doesn't even rise to the level of miniscule. Sometimes things break. It sucks when it's yours but in the overall scheme of things those numbers indicate a pretty reliable design. I agree that Ford could have emphasized to customers the need for a higher level of routine maintenance for turbo longevity and perhaps that is part of the reason that there are reports of failures after a certain mileage. But I don't think it justifies a blanket condemnation of the design or build quality of the turbo or of Ford's commitment to customers. This is not to say that Ford isn't deserving of criticism in some areas... just that this doesn't seem to be one of those areas.

I can appreciate that you are unhappy about the engine problem but you can't expect any company to extend their warranty by more than 50% simply because you don't think you should have to pay for the replacement. It's called a "limited warranty" because it's limited both in how long it applies and what is covered. Sure, if you had the same failure at 51,000 miles then there would be a case for having it covered as a good will item (although that would still be at Ford's discretion). But at 80,000 miles you are not even close to having just run out of warranty. If companies were to cover repairs that far out of warranty then they might as well not have any limits to their coverage and significantly raise the price of every vehicle to cover their anticipated repair costs forever (not to mention the loss of most future sales because buyers have no incentive to buy new if they can get their old one fixed for free). Basically, what you are asking for is unreasonable.

EDIT: It turns out that this image may be just representative of the general layout and not an accurate depiction of the actual design. It is from the Ford parts manual and may have been used for multiple models. See post #56 below regarding the o-ring position.

Ah yes, but living in Canada is like having cold air induction all the time! And we all know how much CAI impacts mileage.

Don't forget that Canadian (Imperial) gallons are 20% bigger than US gallons. His 40mpg would be our 32mpg and the 37mpg would be 29.6mpg.

The 6-ohm 50W resistor needs to be installed between the power wire and ground. The power wire is the one for the turn signals - it is unnecessary for running lights. The ground can be any chassis ground or the ground wire from the lamp socket. The resistors do not go inline in any wire. They connect to the wire using a ScotchLock or similar connector that leaves the original wire intact and allows the resistor to "tap into" it (electrically, the resistor is in parallel with the bulb). In other words, do not cut any factory wire to install resistors. You will generally need a resistor for each location where you install an LED bulb in place of an incandescent bulb in the turn signals (i.e. both sides front and rear if you replace all bulbs).

My radio still shows Love as the name on the display despite the fact that it is Yacht Rock actually playing. The company is SiriusXM but they still broadcast on two slightly different frequencies and some of the channels are numbered differently to maintain compatibility with older Sirius and XM radios. Ford OEM radios all use the Sirius frequencies and channels.

I installed strobe lights front and rear of our Edge but that was a 2013 and amber/white so I could use the turn signals and backup lights in addition to grille mounted strobe modules. Once the turn signals are replaced with LED bulbs, you can use the Sho-Me 11.1005.STT strobe module to control them. It is designed to strobe brake lights and/or turn signals in such a way that their normal function is still available. For example, if you have the turn signals strobing and then turn on the turn signal, they stop strobing and function as normal signals until cancelled then they go back to strobing automatically. For the grille mount strobes, I just used modules that have the strobe patterns and sync built-in so that an external controller wasn't necessary. I was able to connect front and rear turn signals along with backup lights in the bundle of wires behind the left kick panel (the harness goes from there down the left side to the tail lights). That provided plenty of space for the controller module and the convenience of being close to the dash for switch installation. I also put a light bar across the hatch window that plugged in to the rear power outlet and had it's own strobe controls built-in.

Ford is claiming that the Explorer CO issue applies only to police vehicles and they're willing to work with police departments but expect that the problem has been caused by the departments installing additional equipment after purchase. That doesn't match with what I've been seeing elsewhere but that's Ford's PR people at work.

Not for front windows... 28% is the limit in Florida for front windows and a lot of the northern states have limits of 35% while New York's limit is 70% and Illinois outlaws front window tint altogether except for medical reasons.

Sorry, I don't have enough hair to do a mullet - haven't had for a long time. Back then I was looking for an inexpensive (i.e. used) V8 pony car and the Mustangs of the time were seriously lacking in that department compared to LT1 / LS1 F-bodies. I have since come to my senses and now drive a Mustang... probably the most enjoyable car I've ever owned.

Google is your friend. Amazon has 3.5mm stereo to USB 2.0 adapters for under $10 (no cable - you would need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable to connect your player to the adapter). Even Walmart sells an adapter cable with USB 2.0 male A plug on one end and 3.5mm stereo plug on the other for $6.56.

I was stopped several years ago specifically for dark tint on a Camaro Z28 that I had just bought a few days earlier. I don't know the percentage but the tint was dark enough that I had to roll down the window when making turns at night. He let me go when I explained that I had bought it that way (showed him the receipt) and that I already had an appointment to get it replaced that weekend. Probably didn't hurt that I was a "mature" age rather than a young guy. But they definitely will pull you over for tint if it's dark enough - make sure you roll down the window so they can see you if you do get pulled over or you might find yourself staring at the business end of a firearm as they approach your car. My wife has "slightly" illegal tint on her SUV. Florida law requires 28% VLT but she had 30% installed over the already factory tinted windows making it probably somewhere around 20%. We had to pay the installer cash with no receipt so that they could avoid any liability. She's never been stopped probably because it's not that much below the limit. There are so many people around here with really dark tint that they don't seem to bother anyone with reasonable amounts. 3M makes an almost transparent version of their Crystalline film that has good heat and UV rejection. We had it installed on the large windshield of our Edge and it made a noticeable difference even though you really couldn't see it was there unless you compared it directly with another vehicle (90% VLT). It's available in a number of tint levels so you should be able to get the performance you want without needing to go too dark.

Yes that's true because bi-xenon setups change from low beam to high beam by moving a shutter inside the projector. The capsule (bulb) is already illuminated and doesn't have to turn on and off for high beam usage. Wesley is correct that nobody uses HID for high beams that are separate lamps (i.e. 4-lamp systems). And LED headlight bulbs are not necessarily junk. They are pretty much hit or miss but there are some LED bulb and lamp combinations that work quite well. I have mentioned before that I have VLED's LED headlight bulbs in my aftermarket projector headlights and they work very well. But I had to try several brands and models before finding a combination that worked.

Actually, I find that the usefulness of DRLs has nothing to do with "oh crap" last moment visibility situations. Here in Florida (and in many other parts of the country), a lot of roads have tree cover on both sides creating a mottled background of light and shade on the road. This is most noticeable in bright daylight when cars tend to disappear into the background and movement is hard to see because of the "camouflage" - in darker conditions the lighting is more even so it doesn't produce the camouflage effect as much. I have noticed many times when I'm in an intersection waiting to make a left turn that it is much easier to see an approaching vehicle under tree cover when it has DRLs compared to vehicles that don't. These situations don't happen all the time but certainly often enough to be grateful for the added visibility. We're not talking about a magic bullet that will prevent all crashes but if something so simple and inexpensive can prevent even 5% of accidents due to visibility then it seems worthwhile. I can understand people not doing anything to add DRLs if they don't feel that the effectiveness justifies the effort (although a lot of people - including me - spent quite a bit on DBL's aftermarket DRLs). But I don't understand why someone would go out of their way to disable them when they already came on the vehicle. One may not believe that they are particularly effective but it certainly doesn't hurt anything to leave them there.

Yes, the NHTSA concluded that DRLs don't offer "statistically significant" safety benefits. They did so by changing the calculations. Instead of using simple odds they used ratio of odds which, by their own admission, is much more conservative. And they arbitrarily decided that anything less than 5% was not statistically significant. I don't know about you but with over 35,000 fatalities in 2015 (NHTSA statistics), a 5% reduction seems to be significant... 1,750 lives potentially saved. Other studies, even in the US, have shown higher numbers than that. Aside from the Nordic countries which have lower light levels and therefore benefit more from additional lighting, Canada, Australia and European countries have seen 6% - 11% reductions in daytime crashes due to DRLs. But oh no, we are all so sure that the NHTSA would mandate any technology that saves lives on the road - like side airbags or anti-lock brakes (neither of which are currently mandatory).

1 - those signature LED lights are nowhere near bright enough to provide the same visibility as DRLs. 2 - the fact that you would only consider an HID retrofit rather than a plug-and-play kit indicates that you are concerned about safety and proper lighting yet you want to disable a feature designed specifically to increase safety by making vehicles easier to distinguish from background objects. 3 - European Union regulations require all cars made since 2011 to have DRLs. Nordic countries and Canada have required them since the '90s. GM has been installing them since 1995 and estimates that they have prevented about 100,000 accidents since then compared to competitor's vehicles not equipped with them. So basically your list is designed to validate the fact that you just don't like the looks of them. The only really valid reason I have heard for having a defeat capability applies to automatic headlights and vehicles using headlights as DRLs for those who must enter military bases. The bases restrict bright lights on vehicles approaching the gates so the ability to shut them off is useful in that limited case. I admit that as a motorcycle rider I was not pleased by the Canadian option to use headlights as DRLs because it made motorcycles (which must run headlights at all times) less distinctive. I liked the way GM used amber turn signal lamps for DRLs on many of their models and have since adapted that idea (using very bright LED bulbs to reduce heat buildup) to my Mustang which didn't come with DRLs from the factory.

Yes, so why would you want to be able to turn off lights that are required by law where you live?

The official publisher of Ford factory service manuals is Helm, Inc. but it appears they don't have anything for Edge prior to 2009. Even then, you wouldn't want the 2009-2015 manual because it's $2600 (because it's one DVD with all those years on it). There is a website (factory-manuals.com) that will produce a factory manual specific to your vehicle in PDF format for $60. I've bought a couple of them and they are useful but they have no index so it can take a while to find the information you want.