Nick Halstead

Someone has but I dont know. The main piece would be the upper radiator support bracket. This allows for the different headlights. You would also possibly cut the geadlight pigtails as you would be going from basic to halogen projects that function as high/low. It's not a hard conversion.

In this pic I was simply checking to see what was causing the condensation in the rear lights. visually couldn't see any issues. The middle light bar and passenger side has since been replaced and I haven't had any issue's since

It's really easy, mine were off within 2 hours of signing the paperwork!

Mine was off within 2hrs of taking it home.

I do have HID projectors in my sport. My fusion is halogen projectors

think of driving your car at redline 24/7, even at idle you're sitting at a stoplight with the engine at redline. That's what the silverstars are doing which is why their lifespan is not the greatest

No, by aiming the lights lower, you decrease the amount of usable light the driver of the vehicle has. Oncoming traffic will always be blinded by your lights because you have HIDs in a housing that was designed to reflect halogen bulbs.

just stick with your stock lighting, I mean your headlights weren't designed for HID anyway.

no I haven't but I haven't seen a good review of them either in the headlight world. actually only seen negative reviews and like all LEDs, they have more foreground lighting.

where is the dark spot located? If your not used to driving a car with projector lighting than it is an adjustment. If you don't really know anything about a projectors light cutoff you could be referring to the left side in front of driver as it's usually cut off not to shine into oncoming traffics eyes.

not impressed, this kioto Prius LED projector is the only LED I have ever liked and still don't get as much distance with them as an actual HID setup

Go in more detail after the 10th

If nothing is put on a dyno how do you gauge your mods?

Nope other than lightwerkz opening the tjin edition edge for sema. I've message them and tjin and never got a response back

Yeah...a few members have swapped. I plan on swapping to diode dynamics 6k or morimoto 5500

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19759-sesel-light-bar-solution/

Just want to inform ALL of you looking at these cheap middle light bars. There is a very good possibility that they are warranty swaps for those who had them replaced for condensation. So spend wisely my Edge Drivers. Would suck to spend 240 and after the first odd rain/then sunshine you have a light bar full of condensation that looks horrible...

Pretty funny though that this "hot topic" has nobody in it.

Lights have been controlled by computers for some time. Shoot in my 07 magnum if you installed the oem fog light kit, you had to get a star scan tool or dealership to flash it and enable them to turn on in oem function. Also a member with a sport HAS had a dealership successfully install the lightbar and the wire harness, dunno if they had to update software. Also. I have a new post on this and you are welcomed to take off your hatch panels and see what you have to work with. Ford will not make this a kit. The middle lightbar is like $1,400. I just had mine replaced due to condensation.

Good input and your're probably 100% correct. Though we both know people in the world have to physically see things themselves cause word of mouth holds no weight anymore. Honestly though. You may hold the missing link. If you still have your service records the harness for the lightbar should be listed on it. Then SE members can just buy the harness and lightbar.

Not really but it got you here... I need a volunteer in a SE/SEL to go take the panels off the inside of the hatch. Took me 5 mins but it also wasn't my first time. The process Remove the cover of the handle. Its hiding two 7mm bolts (will need an extension) remove those bolts. Now pull the top middle piece (closest to roof) off. This will allow you to pull the two side pieces then the main big piece. Once you pull the big piece, hold it and unhook the button to shut the hatch (dunno if SE/SEL have the button. Now here's what you are looking for. 2 plug in connections. If you don't have atleast 2 and only have the gray reverse light then you cant do a simple swap (see pics) then you are SOL for a direct swap. The top plug (closest to roof) is for the light bar. The gray middle plug is the reverse lights. The bottom plug is the camera. Posting all this from my phone so the pics are attached instead of inserted.

Ideally, i dont know if any of the brake hardware is different. Don't think it is, but if all the brake hardware is the same across the board, you can rock base SE wheels. One of the benefits of the sport not having a big brake kit

TRS basically runs the group Headlight Junkies. TRS is legit. They don't sell lights over 6500k because it's function over looks

For the best observation of your cut off, you ideally want to view it at about 50ft. The garage photo is kinda like sitting 1ft in front of a 80in TV. Here's 2 pics of my oem hids. One right in front of garage and other from about 50ft. Notice the hotspot is more spread out. Ideally you want an even hotspot spread out throught the whole light but only a tuned projector is normally going to accomplish that. The blue line is just for looks but it blures the cutoff as opposed to have a sharp cutoff line. Most people love the blue cutoff and enhance this (see led photo i posted earlier).

Yeah thats too close and the garage door doesn't help. If you find a nice blank wall with some distance you can pull up close and then back away slowly and watch how your cutoff changes. Also can look at my pics all from a variety of distances.