PrinzII

I am wondering what the cause could be. Something like that should not be sticking on a 2 year old vehicle.

I have been going through this issue for months and can tell you this: Back in the day, cars had pin switches that shut the interior lights out and allowed you to lock the door. Problem is that the switches on our Edges are two rubber disks on the upper part of the door and close to the outside. I have been pushing both disks and one of them tends to feel like it is sticking. I have pushed this up to 25 times to clear this problem up. At first, I thought it was temperature related (During a winter spell in Phoenix, it got into the 20s). But the issue has been surfacing even when the temps have hit 80. Furthermore, the issue flares up when you unlock the door which means that something with the unlock mechanism is jarring that switch. My dealership is aware of the issue and I am having them order the parts for it.

Has anyone tried painting these or would you use the same method as shantz when he painted the stock rockers to match?

Not really a huge fan of those. Their design doesn't fit what I am trying to do.

Did anyone check out the new flat W3 yet?

DRL module should resolve this,

I have to return one of my LEDs to V-LEDs because it stopped working.

I am wondering if the Tritons require the resistor in order to work.

Labol, The adage "you get what you pay for" applies here. In earlier posts in this very thread, some tried the Ebay switchbacks and had issues. After reversing the leads, some got them to work correctly and others had hyperflashing. As for me, I bit the bullet and got the ones from VLEDs which have not failed me yet. As for my backup lights, that's another issue. My left one goes out.

Since I have owned both a first gen and currently own a second gen Edge, I have had HIDs in both. In my first gen, I had 6K HIDs in in both high and low beams (Necessary for driving in certain parts of AZ). Lived with the blue and jagged pattern but that did not outweigh my light output. In the second gen, I went down to 5K and enjoy the light output from that. As others have said, you see the blue but it's not in a critical viewing spot.

Mine are holding up just fine. For me, the 6k switchbacks don't look too bad versus the 5k HIDs I have.

Let me look into this. I do have Photoshop.

Congrats on making it to the 100k club. My 2008 Edge got up to 105k before we traded it on our 2011.

cdpratt: How'd you tune the 360.3 and how's it holding up thus far?

When mine had DRLs, I had both (Capacitor and DRL module).

55w has a greater intensity which can change the color of certain temps (e.g. 4150K can be as bright as 5000K 35w). I personally have a 5000K 35w which provides sufficient light for what I need. OEM retrofits change the projector to a HID projector which also means you (may) have to change the bulbs to D2S or the stock D3s which come with the Edge's HIDs.

Nice concept. Question is how much of that is actually going to make it into production.

Platinum: Let me know how they are with day to day commuting and road trips.

If you do live in an area that does not require DRLs by law but have them activated on the vehicle, you can get them turned off at the dealer.

Do you have the DRL module?

That's what I have on mine with a slight modification.

I did entertain the TSW Snetterton but they are actually heavier than the MRR.

Do your headlights come on at low power whenever you put your Edge in drive? If so, you have DRLs.

It is upgraded. As for the strut tower brace, there was a Steeda rep on here. Is he still around?

Previous Edge: 2008 Edge SE Current Edge: 2011 Limited I know that mine is a drastic step up but the differences are as follows: a) The 2011 is wider than the 2008 which leads to a more comfy cabin The 2011 does handle better c) The 2008's trans seemed to perform better d) The 2011 is smoother and quieter e) The 2011 has a more refined look that gets compliments every time I drive it f) Both have good customization potential but need some tweaks performance wise