PrinzII

After pricing the LED bar, I waltzed down to the nearby car audio shop. I liked what he was thinking with the front stage but was not too keen on disconnecting my dash and d-pillar speakers. He did recommend a set of Focals, though.

The license plate mount and this LED light bar: http://store.sdhqoffroad.com/11XmitterPrimeXtremeLEDLightBarEighteen5-WattLEDs40WideBeam.aspx

I stopped at the shop yesterday to look at the license plate mount and an LED bar. Long story short, this is NOT a cheap proposition. My cost is $925 for everything installed and 4 hrs of my time. However, the light output of the bar I chose makes this all worth the cost.

Those just got dropped to #2 on my list. The LED bar has taken the top spot.

Saynt: You did exactly what I did when my non-Canadian 2011 had DRLs. I had to order a warning canceller and a capacitor. After that, they have worked ever since.

From the looks of things, my old Edge is still ticking and in the area. http://ww.vinexplorer.com/Ford-24/Edge-847/2008/2FMDK36C88BA38242.html ...at the VW dealership? http://www.myautosearch.com/index/vehicle-details/vin/2FMDK36C88BA38242/2008-Ford-Edge/Phoenix-.-85297

Turns out it's an issue with the latch.

I am looking at this for mine. Planning to investigate shortly.... I want to hang mine under the front license plate bracket.

I think I found my solution.... http://sdhqoffroad.com/LicensePlateBracketWithXIL-LP910Attached.aspx

When I went to the NHRA event in Phoenix, I found an off-road shop that would install something similar. I am planning to check that out.

I am wondering what the cause could be. Something like that should not be sticking on a 2 year old vehicle.

I have been going through this issue for months and can tell you this: Back in the day, cars had pin switches that shut the interior lights out and allowed you to lock the door. Problem is that the switches on our Edges are two rubber disks on the upper part of the door and close to the outside. I have been pushing both disks and one of them tends to feel like it is sticking. I have pushed this up to 25 times to clear this problem up. At first, I thought it was temperature related (During a winter spell in Phoenix, it got into the 20s). But the issue has been surfacing even when the temps have hit 80. Furthermore, the issue flares up when you unlock the door which means that something with the unlock mechanism is jarring that switch. My dealership is aware of the issue and I am having them order the parts for it.

Has anyone tried painting these or would you use the same method as shantz when he painted the stock rockers to match?

Not really a huge fan of those. Their design doesn't fit what I am trying to do.

Did anyone check out the new flat W3 yet?

DRL module should resolve this,

I have to return one of my LEDs to V-LEDs because it stopped working.

I am wondering if the Tritons require the resistor in order to work.

Labol, The adage "you get what you pay for" applies here. In earlier posts in this very thread, some tried the Ebay switchbacks and had issues. After reversing the leads, some got them to work correctly and others had hyperflashing. As for me, I bit the bullet and got the ones from VLEDs which have not failed me yet. As for my backup lights, that's another issue. My left one goes out.

Since I have owned both a first gen and currently own a second gen Edge, I have had HIDs in both. In my first gen, I had 6K HIDs in in both high and low beams (Necessary for driving in certain parts of AZ). Lived with the blue and jagged pattern but that did not outweigh my light output. In the second gen, I went down to 5K and enjoy the light output from that. As others have said, you see the blue but it's not in a critical viewing spot.

Mine are holding up just fine. For me, the 6k switchbacks don't look too bad versus the 5k HIDs I have.

Let me look into this. I do have Photoshop.

Congrats on making it to the 100k club. My 2008 Edge got up to 105k before we traded it on our 2011.

cdpratt: How'd you tune the 360.3 and how's it holding up thus far?

When mine had DRLs, I had both (Capacitor and DRL module).