oskar27

Thanks for the tips

Many thanks for your time

Are you suggesting TopDon? CAD$69.00 at Amazon.ca

It's true, the cold cranking amps should never drop below 10.0A, plus fully charged battery should have 12.6 to 12.8V, all done with a multimeter Thanks

I agree with you omar302, car starts too fast to notice any difference but now that I know about it I would say it's true, she used to start within the first/second crank and lately has been second or third crank but since I didn't know I paid no attention. Now that I'm in "batteries" I must confess that I have been very negligent regarding batteries. Checking my records the battery I had which I installed myself was purchased from a local well known store mid December 2021, so it was almost 5 years old. Searching to educate myself I find that these batteries have a life span of 3-5 years so I was way over my limit. Also I learn how to test these battery with a voltmeter which I have one. Many thanks to all for the help

Sorry, I don't agree that the signs were there. To my knowledge a sign for a bad battery is that she start to crank the engine at lower RPM, and then you know that you have battery problem. My battery started the car normally about 10 minutes before, then I drove to my next stop and when I got out and try to start the car again I had nothing. Anyway I only try to educate myself and learn why and I just had a thought: the batteries I used before years ago they were the "old style" means not sealed and the one I have now is the sealed type or maintenance free. Perhaps that's the reason? Many thanks

The dealer checked the battery and charging system and the only problem they found was the battery. Replaced the battery and now all is back to normal. CAD$ 359.00 + taxes. Still do not understand why I never got before any signs that my battery was bad

I understand them engines if built in the Cleveland plant have a problem with the head gasket for water intrusion. Mine has about 65K Kilometers and so far so good.

Started the car with a booster and drove to Ford dealer, will be ready today or tomorrow. Hope for the best

Thanks for your time mate, I have not seen any O'Reillys outlets either. In any case I prefer to use a Ford dealer, not because they may be better but right or wrong I trust them more. BTW I noticed you also have a 2016 Edge Titanium, is that with the 2.0L eco boost? Now to my subject, the battery charging is done and when I open the doors I can see the lights coming ON, however I notice in the navigation screen saying "Power is OFF to save the Battery" and trying to start the engine nothing happens. Tomorrow I will call the dealer and hopefully I will get an appointment tomorrow. A friend will come to give me a boost and hopefully the car will start. If not I will have to get a tow truck and see how he will get the car out of my garage. I have this car for 10 years and has been 100% trouble free but now what I have looks a big problem. Will post back when I have more news

Remember years ago when I had a bad battery the engine will turn slow and eventually will start if I was lucky. However with the current problem I have in my Edge after the first few stops I did the engine turn once or twice and started like new but in my last stop the battery was dead. That I don’t understand how the battery went dead instead of going dead "slowly" meaning it will turn the engine but at very low RPM. Any explanation to make me understand what went wrong?

Thanks for the tip however searching there are no Autozone outlets in my area (Quebec). I'm charging my battery now and it looks like its completely dead so there must be something wrong in the charging system. My charger has 4 indicating lights to indicate the progress and after 2 hours it still blinks on light one (when the 4th light blinks the battery is fully charged).

2016 Edge Titanium, FWD, 2.0L EcoBoost (leased new for 4 years and then bought my lease). Always serviced at the dealer, no problems, change the battery myself about 2 years ago. In the winter I have a digital charger and used it occasionally but not in the summer. Went out today shopping, stopped in few places and in my last stop when I went to start - no luck, says something like "...power is off to conserve battery....". Friend suggest to boost and did it and started like new. Saturday today so dealer is closed but planing to go on Monday. Car is always parked inside my garage with all doors closed and windows open. Any ideas to trouble shoot myself? Thanks

Its true, they are covers but to my experience they act like traps to hold dirt/snow in the winter.

I understand them plugs may serve something but I decided to take them out from all doors and keep an eye in there. I kept the plugs just in case.

I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer to fix the inside of the 2 rear doors (the 2 front doors are ok). Took more time to tape/hide the surround areas and it's done. Question now is what are these 2 plastic covers at the bottom of each door? I remove them before spray but I think not to put them back. To my opinion they must be covers for the drain holes but why to cover the holes? Any ideas?

He didn't even come outside to look....I said I want an estimate for work in my car....and he asked what kind....and I said to fix some rust on the inside of my doors....and then he said I have no time for rust removal perhaps in the Summer. And I was parked right in front of his door so he knew what I was talking about.

Went to this place, its a chain stores "CarSmart" and told me they can't do the work cause they are too busy, perhaps in the Summer. So I decided to try fix it myself the best I can perhaps by using "Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer" which is available in my area in spray form

Body shop is out of my way and with the Spring freezing rains we have makes it more difficult. Will try next week.

The dealer does not do body work (as I suspected) but he gave me the address of a body shop they use as needed. I will go to this shop next week some time and post back. Body shops are "tricky" business so I would rather go to one it's recommended by the dealer. My thanks to all

I understand all this and what rust can do and I do not want to cover the rust. That area at the bottom of the door is very difficult to cut and re build and that's the reason I posted here to get info from other members. Hopefully the dealer tomorrow will tell me how it can be fixed. Thanks

Good point mate but I thought he sprays the inside of the cavity at both ends? Anyway tomorrow I go for an oil change and will see what the dealer has to offer Thanks

Thanks for the tip enigma-2

I have a 2016 Edge Titanium, FWD, 2L ECOBoost, 62K Kilometers no problems so far at all. Leased the car new and bought the lease at the end. I'm aware of the coolant intrusion issue. The interior of both rear doors by the bottom started rusting. That's a bad doors design because the way the doors are made it creates a place for dirt to accumulate in that area and start rusting. Plan to go to a body shop soon. The two front doors in the same area are clean but depending on how they will fix the rear doors I may ask to do the same on the front doors. Any idea how they can fix the problem? Thanks

Mine is 2016 Titanium with the 2.0 EcoBoost and just turned 60K kilometers. No problems so far, love the car, but I'm waiting to see when it will happen to me too......