thirdgenlxi

Ahhh alright.... figured there was prob something you had to add to it. Oh well no biggie As far as I know this is about it, unless there's another hidden menu that I don't know about (which there very well may be). This is in the developer menu, there's a whole bunch of crap you can mess with (half of which I have no clue what it is, lol), but this is "view sensor data" and as far as I know it's just the choices you see here. I'm still messing around with it though. This menu is typically used to turn off the driving restriction for the nav (it locks it out once you're moving so you can't mess with it, you can disable that in here) but still messing around with it. For the speed confirmation.... I don't think there's anything in here, BUT I was poking around the programmable parameters on the IDS the other day and I remember seeing something about an overspeed warning. I didn't mess around with it at all so I'm not sure if you can set it wherever you want or what. I'll mess around with that and see what it does and let ya know..... I drove my Accord to work today so can't try it out today unless I find a customers car to mess with, lol.... I'll prob drive my Edge tomorrow though so I'll try it then There's also an engineering test mode on the instrument cluster where you can go through a bunch of different stuff too.... again half of it I have no clue what it is, but there is a digital tach readout, digital speed, digital coolant temp (though it's in Celsius), digital battery volts, and a few other things

Well figured I'd update this..... so as it turns out, the unit he sent me ended up having a bad DVD drive (you could see the unit had been dropped) which is why it wouldn't read the disc. I asked my buddy that I got it from about it, and he said if we couldn't get this one to work he'd just swap it out for another one, which is what we ended up doing.... he got another one from LKQ where he works at, and just wrote this one off as defect (but told me to keep it and do whatever I want with it, lol). So I got the new one in that he just sent me, and it works great! It's a year older, '07 instead of '08, and had to reprogram it again as it was for something with a rear DVD system, but still new enough that it has the line-in input so that's good. Anyways.... couple pics. I believe you're supposed to be able to do voice commands too, but far as I know I don't have a microphone.... gotta look into that Oops..... don't think I was supposed to find that, LOL :hide: It works real good.... tried it on my way home from work. So I'm happy

Sounds like they need to learn how to bleed the air out of it then.... if it started blowing hot when moved around then there's your problem right there. There's a procedure for bleeding the air out in the procedure, as well as possible causes for air intrusion into the system. An air lift will get the air out no probs. Sounds like you're dealing with some incompetent techs.... I seriously doubt replacing the heater core will fix your problem

Cool deal.... I don't know exactly what the plan is (we orig weren't gonna go cuz all the decent seats were sold out it seemed, but just found some tix today so kind of a last minute deal, lol), if we're gonna be staying the night there or driving back to NC afterwards (that's what we did last year). The races usually go until 10:00. We're going to the bike show in Charlotte on Sunday afternoon but that doesn't start until noon or so, so I'm really not sure. Hell I don't even know who's driving there yet, hahah. It's kind of a 'play it by ear' sort of thing, I guess. If you want though if you could shoot me a PM with a phone # I can try and get ahold of you if we're able to do something afterwards.... I always enjoy meeting up with people and putting face to a S/N

Wow.... reading some of the previous posts in this thread, there's definitely some very ill informed people in here...eek! Anyways, just to get a few facts straight...... the problem was not the heater cores, or the coolant used, it was CONTAMINATION of the coolant due to the water pump inlet tube. The original water pump inlet tubes were painted with a coating on the inside of the tube, and over time with heat cycles and constant water flowing through it, the paint began to flake off and circulate through the cooling system. And since the heater core has the smallest orifices in the cooling system, that was the first thing to clog. The flushing machine used to flush the system is a BEAST (we have a whole pumping kit just for this procedure).... seriously it'll empty a full 5 gallon bucket of water in a matter of seconds... it will MOVE some water! LOL. So needless to say it'll un-clog just about any heater core. The heater core is covered should it still need to be replaced, but prior approval is needed from Ford before doing so. I've never seen one that actually needed the heater core replaced. The revised green coolant (from the original gold) has nothing to do with the original problem, they just consider it a better coolant (that wasn't available at the time) and are switching everything over to it.... kinda the same reason all the trans fluid is going from Mercon V and Mercon SP over to Mercon LV..... same thing.... standardizing more or less. After the flush procedure was completed, the water pump inlet tube was replaced with a revised tube that was not painted and would not have this issue again If this procedure has been done and you're still having heat problems, then there's a good chance that it either (a) wasn't done correctly (the flush procedure is 26 pages long, and has a LOT of steps, and you have to do certain things at certain temps for it all to work right), or ( it's simply not the reason for your lack of heat problem. There's other things that can cause it as well.... thermostat stuck open, weak water pump, temp blend door actuator (most likely) will all cause low or no heat. Temp blend door actuator isn't an uncommon thing at all.... I've gotta put one in an F-150 next week for the exact same prob (no heat on the left side... actuator is stuck on cold). Sounds like it needs a more thorough diagnosis to figure out what is going on Here's the PDF's with the recall info R09M04.pdf R09M043.pdf R09M044.pdf

I'm in western NC, kinda in the middle of nowhere between Asheville and Hickory, lol (right in the middle, about an hour from both) I used to live in GA out your way... sort of... lived in Athens for a bit when I first moved there from S. FL, then moved to Winder (**ducks and hides**... don't tell anybody that). I worked at the huge Akins Ford place there in Winder if you've ever heard of it. Used to ride our bikes up your way all the time... usually meet at the top of 400 in Dahlonega and head north into the mountains, usually 129 up Blood Mtn. My buddy Scott and I are gonna be heading that way this saturday for the Supercross races at the Georgia Dome.... excited!!

That's awesome.... I'd love to go and do a plant tour! The BMW plant in Greer, SC is not even an hour away and they do tours there, my buddys parents did one there and said it was really cool. Don't think we have any other auto mfg plants around here though. Sounds like a good idea for a forum group tour...hmmmm! :D

Should be fine for just a quick jaunt, but I certainly wouldn't put it on the drive axle.... spider gears in the diff will be hating life for sure, lol.... rear only IMHO

I always just click the image button (just below and to the left of the yellow smiley face) and paste the image URL from photobucket or wherever and that always works fine for me. For some reason the IMG tags I use on most forums don't seem to work here though Like this...

Welcome to the forum!! A couple picture examples.... easier to see on lighter color vehicles Textured... not painted to match vehicle color, just a textured black, usually on base models Smooth.... painted to match If yours is an SEL then they should be the smooth paint-to-match ones (and you'll prob need to get the little 'cap' seperately, as you usually transfer it from the old mirror to the new one). And it gets painted to match the vehicle color.... the color code is on the sticker on the drivers front door jamb. Are you ordering it from a dealership?? If so they should be able to figure all this out by simply putting in the VIN and HVBOM should tell them everything they need to know

At work today.... love working saturdays... or not :mellow:

Whole motor.... it's all one assembly

And if that still doesn't work, the potentiometers in the mirror motors may have gone haywire. We used to replace them all the time on the 03-04 Navigators and Expeditions back in the day. They would go haywire when the memory recall was used or when put in reverse for the auto tilt down... they'd usually go to pointing all the way out and then still sit there and ratchet, lol..... they had no idea what their own position was

It's called a courtesy wipe.... it's a feature you can turn on or off with the instrument cluster settings or using the IDS

If you have sync and ambient lighting than you need to choose the one that is for with sync and ambient lighting

And just adding the buttons will not make it work either... there's more to it than that

That's what load resistors are for.... very easy fix

You should be able to get just that cover by itself...it lists it separately

The memory seat 1 and 2 buttons along with the power liftgate button are mounted in that panel.... prob for one of those

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2010&m=Ford&mo=Edge#Search It's the <045A76.... there's 4 different ones to choose from (with or without sync, with or without ambient lighting, etc). It won't give the full part # though

It's 0.5 hr labor at most dealerships to cut and program a key.... that's around $40-50 depending on the particular shops labor rate.... it's really not a big thing, and you can just get a regular PATS key (they're not that expensive) and do the separate fob later as you mentioned (and yes, it's easy... cycle the key on'off 8 times with the door closed ending in the run position, locks will cycle, press either lock or unlock on all fobs you want programmed, key off... done). Once you have 2 good keys you can program additional keys yourself (up to 8 total) should you want to get another fob key later on... just need to get it cut is all

You can get them aftermarket... or on ebay there's quite a few of them. You don't HAVE to get the fob keys, you can get just the regular PATS keys and they'll still work, if anything just to have as a backup. Locksmith can cut and program it

Yup sounds like your key is dead... time to get a new one cut

The battery is mainly just for the transmitter.... ie regular PATS keys don't use a serviceable battery. Several times though I've seen PATS keys actually go bad themselves and cause the theft light to flash and car not to start. Though most of them were the older original square style, but it's still just as possible to happen with the FOB style as well. Just had to toss those keys and cut another one, and all was well. Sounds like that may be the case here

Yea I've gotta pick up a GPS antenna.... this was kind of a last minute thing, wasn't really expecting him to have one right away (I asked my buddy if they had one at LKQ [a very large auto recycler, btw] where he works, this was his personal one). And he went ahead and sent it out, didn't even have a chance to pick up an antenna, lol. It's easy enough to get back out though I'll just throw that in whenever I get it. Hopefully that's all it is. Guy at work has a mustang with the same nav unit in it so I'm gonna see if I can borrow his disc to try and see what happens