thirdgenlxi

Well I've put about 6000 miles on mine now since I bought it, up to just over 103k and haven't had a single issue whatsoever.... running and driving like brand new I've taken it on a couple little trips here and there (nothing major, couple hundred miles each) and I'm getting about 23 MPG on the highway ~72-75 MPH or so, not too bad I don't believe for being here in the mountains where it's constant up and down, up and down I did do the cooling system corrosion recall.... flushed it out real good, replaced the water pump inlet tube, and converted to the specialty green coolant. Wasn't having any trouble with the heat at all, I just wanted to do it before it got to that point of being a problem, as it would make it that much harder to flush out. More a preventative thing more than anything..... and I needed a coolant flush anyways, so not only got one for free, but got paid to do it too, hahah.... WIN!! Still very happy with my purchase.... And Piggy likes it too, just a little higher than she can jump up into, so she gets the front up then waits for me to help with the rear, haha (she had hip surgery back in late 2011 and currently only has 1 conventional physical hip joint, the other is a false joint where the bone is fused directly to the muscle tissue and the ball & socket joint completely removed). Taken tonight on our way to obedience class...

I use white lithium grease on all the hinges and latches.... silicone spray on all weatherstrips... seems to work well

Looking great!! Crazy what a difference a simple set of wheels will make

Well there could be a current draw on the system, causing it to drain the battery..... only way to test that is to do a parasitic draw test and make sure the draw is less than 50mA. I've had all kinds of weird stuff cause draws.... radios, instrument clusters, modules, etc. If there is no draw you may just have a bad battery again.... I know it sounds weird but we've run into that multiple times where you just get a couple dud batteries. Same thing happened in my dads old Accord too Is it going dead consistently every time?? Any accessories or add on's plugged into the car... chargers, GPS, stereo stuff, lights, etc?? I'm guessing it's just a battery.... they can do some weeeiiiird stuff, believe me, lol. Do you do a lot of short trips?

If you're talking about the extra little grey square connector going into the wiring harness on the car side, that's for the factory subwoofer and amp. And yea most had the line-in I believe, but who knows may be some without. Even with the steering wheel controls working I'd still get it programmed for your specific vehicle. The nav unit I swapped in mine came from an Expedition and all the steering wheel controls worked fine but it had a tab for the rear DVD entertainment system as well Do you have the part # from it??

Sounds to me like it needs to be programmed for your exact vehicle, it may have come out of another model that didn't have a line in option. Dealer would have to program it with as-built data per your VIN. Do the steering wheel controls work properly?? But I don't know why the PO would have swapped it out, SEL should come with the 6 disc already.... unless there was something wrong with it, but I wouldn't see any other reason to replace it. I could be wrong but I thought only the SE had the single disc

Our 5000 mile service is just an oil change and tire rotation.... really nothing more that needs to be done at that point. And kinda up to the dealer I think on whether it's free or not, one of the dealers I used to work at the first oil change was always free with a new car (personally I would never go that long on the factory oil, but maybe that's just me). Either way, shouldn't be much regardless

That's cuz I'm a dumbass and got my years mixed up... DOH!! I apologize, my mistake. I must have had the 2011+ on the brain.... I work on too many different cars everyday and my brain gets mixed up sometimes, lol. Though I could have sworn there was one in our menu as well, but I just went out and checked mine and sure enough, you are correct. I do know for a fact though that you can change it with the IDS in the programmable parameters

You thought stating that you were leaving the door open in a thread asking why the lights are staying on wasn't important information to add?? :fool: I'm sorry if I sound blunt here, but you have no idea how incredibly frustrating it is for us as techs when we're chasing our tails trying to duplicate a "problem" that doesn't even exist simply because the customer only told us half the story. That's OUR personal time that's being wasted because we're not getting paid for stuff like that, we only get paid on the actual job. If it's under warranty, we get absolutely nothing for no problem found concerns, no matter how long we have to spend with it. If there's actually a legitimate concern, we don't mind spending time to find it, but when it's simple customer error, especially stuff that should be common sense (such as this).... that's directly taking $$ right out of my wallet because not only am I not getting paid for it, but it's keeping me from working on stuff that I am getting paid for... and all because the customer is a dumbass and doesn't know how to read the owners manual (not saying you here, just a general blanket statement). Extremely frustrating!!! It's like the Grand Marquis I had a few years back, complaining about no airflow from the A/C vents and a whistling noise.... I stop in the middle of what I'm doing, go wash up, get the ticket and go out and find the car, only to find that all 4 dash vents are switched to the closed position. Open all 4 vents, problem solved. Stupid! I don't know about the rest of y'all, but i sure don't like working for free, especially when a lot of us honest techs (in our shop) already work about 10 hours unpaid every week most times....not fun... free doesn't pay the bills [/end rant] LOL

Welcome!! Congrats on the new ride, hope it treats you well!

Well you left that kinda important little tidbit of information that you were leaving the door open, out of your first post.... :blink: I'm not sure I'm understanding what the issue is here that you're still trying to get at.... the car is designed so that when you open any door, the interior lights come on. The battery saver is there to keep from killing the battery in case people do silly things like leave the doors open, or the lights on. When you open/close a door while in battery saver mode it resets and starts all over again if a door is still left open. That's just the way it is and the way the system is set up.... what's not right about it?? Close all the doors and the lights will go off.... problem solved... easy fix

Dang that's crazy bright! I really need to get something like this.... I'm blind as a bat and can't see s**t at night, especially backing up... pretty much just hope my park aid beepers are working and go slow, haha. Def gonna look into these...

Very nice! As you can see in my avatar pic, my one dog likes Repsols too, haha. My buddy has an '09 as well And yes, 2010 is the same as my '07, just keep hitting the setup and reset buttons until you get to "courtesy wipe <on> <off>"

That is indeed called a courtesy wipe, as mentioned above. If you scroll through your setup menu on the instrument cluster, there is a setting to turn it on or off And welcome to the forum!! Any pics of your Repsol?? :rolleyes:

Awesome.... looking good! Congrats on the new ride, hope she treats you well

Welcome new guy!! Congrats on the new ride.... enjoy it and make yourself at home here

Awesome man, congrats!! Glad to hear everything went well and everyone is happy and healthy... always good news :D My 3 kids are in my siggy, hahah

I keep mine lubed with the Motorcraft PTFE lubricant (the blue-green stuff).... seems to work good so far at least, roof opens and closes perfectly smooth with no noises ('07 w/102k mi). There's other similar lubes too that would work fine, but the Motorcraft stuff I get for free at work, sooooo..... And don't forget the back half of the track too (where you can't really see it under the little felt covers), and lube the little accordion panels too so they don't squeak and chatter

Definitely does sound like a rod knock from the bottom.... top mainly just hear injector noise from what I can tell, but def something funky from the bottom. Have you checked to see if there's any metal shavings in the oil?

One of your seat heater elements is likely shot..... the heated seat control module continuously monitors the heater circuits for both the seat bottom and seat back heating elements, as well as a temperature sensor in each mat. If the control module detects a fault in any of the circuits or the temp sensor, it will not allow that seat heater to operate. That's why it flashes on real fast and then goes off, because it detects a fault. The heated seat module is located under the front passenger seat and controls both front heated seats. So you gotta figure out which one of your heater mats is burnt up

Hahahaha can't argue with ya there! LOL. I will say, these new style actuators have actually been a lot better than the old white ones..... for awhile there it seemed like every '03-ish Expedition/Aviator/Windstar/etc you'd get it would be surround sound clicking from both front and rear actuators, haha. The new style ones don't seem to sit there and click, they just don't move (such as the case with this one). But the number of them we see has definitely gone down quite a bit Ford isn't the only ones though.... other brands have the same issues too. My dad has an '02 GMC Envoy and had to replace the temp blend door actuator in his as well, and on the Trailblazer/Envoy forum he's on people are doing them left and right

Welcome!! Congrats on the new ride.... enjoy it

Yup... I still do work for a dealer.... I've been a Ford dealer tech for about 10 years now. And no problem... always glad to help This was my fun for today..... LH temp blend door actuator in an '09 F-150.... Usually end up with more of these than anything else though....eek! Always a joy [/sarcasm] lol

I'm not sure about what all happens on the sales or detail side of it, but as far as service goes.... Different techs do them differently.... some take all the plastic out, some don't. The main point of the PDI is just that, 'inspection'. Personally I always take all the plastic off the seats, put all the little rubber trays in their respective compartments, remove all the random stickers from the windows (not the actual window sticker or other informational stickers, just the random manufacturing stickers), remove any other protective coverings from the inside panels... some can be completely random, remove all the protective coverings and stickers from the outside, install radio antenna and wheel center caps or lug covers on super dutys, check and set tire pressures (except for super dutys, they're almost always way over inflated), check lug nut torque, check the functionality of pretty much every electrical item on the car... windows up/down, sunroof, all lights, horn, power seats, power mirrors, power locks, folding seats, power liftgate, heat & a/c, radio, etc.... you get the idea. Then check all fluids and top off if necessary (they're usually always a little low from the factory... nothing that will hurt anything just not "completely" full..... they save a s**t-ton of $$$ doing that). Then roadtest and make sure everything feels and sounds good, no unusual noises or vibrations, drives straight and smooth, test cruise control and any other fancy gadgets, make sure tranny shifts smooth, etc. And of course make sure there's no warning lights on the dash either. It's not super common, but does happen.... we've had transmissions that were no good right off the bat (2010 Taurus with 4 miles on it banging every gear), 3rd brake lights that didn't work cuz they bent a pin in the connector when they plugged it in, and 2 of the PDI's I've done this week, a Focus and an Explorer, the Focus had a check engine light (ended up being a calibration update to fix) and the Explorer an airbag light (the connector for the LH canopy airbag module was plugged in but not fully seated, so the resistance was way off as it was just hitting the shorting bar). Also had a new Focus a couple months ago with a locked up A/C compressor on the PDI (apparently they weren't putting enough oil in them at the factory...oops!). Also have to perform any open recalls that they might have (along with the rest of the dealer stock) But yea that's pretty much it.... then we take it over to detail after we're done and do the state inspection. Some of these new cars (mainly the new Fusions) are absolutely filllllttthy when they arrive, literally covered in dirt/mud.... even the inside will have dirt all over. They even made a statement about it and said they've adjusted their processes to keep them from getting so dirty....I sure hope so, lol Huh? They added 100 km to it from the extended test drive you took it on two days later?? That makes no sense at all, lol But some new vehicles have more miles on them then others do.... Ford will randomly select vehicles off the assembly line for road testing, I've seen them with as little as 15-20 miles or as much as 70 or 80, just depends on their mood I guess, haha. They put a little sticker in the window saying that this vehicle was selected for random roadtesting, and how many miles they put on it. But sometimes it falls off by the time it gets to the dealer

You can go on their website too and they have a section on there just for Sirius equipped used cars for a 2 month trial. I'm using it on my '07 right now. You just have to put either your VIN or the ESN from your radio and then activate it and it works like a champ. I like mine, think I'm gonna keep it going once the trial runs out (we don't have any good radio stations here in the mountains, and when you do find one it turns to static 5 mins later)